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runner14jc

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  1. runner14jc
    Soy candles cannot be truthfully labeled as organic. Soy waxes are hydrogenated oils and hydrogenated oils cannot be certified as organic. Even if you managed to locate 100% organic soybean oil, by the time, you make that oil into a wax, it is no longer an organic product.
  2. runner14jc
    Thanks for all the feedback! I love it. May have to give it a try and then report back if I do.
  3. runner14jc
    CS is offering a new melt and pour soap base Donkey's Milk. Wondering if anyone has tried it yet and had any opinions on it? I usually use the Triple Butter base and sometimes some clear but was considering giving this one a try....
  4. runner14jc
    I agree with @TallTayl, clear labels look fabulous with metal. I use clear labels even on my tins and absolutely love it! You should try it and see what you think before switching to a white label. You could use one of the labels you already have just to test it even though the size won't be right. It will at least give you an idea of the look. Love your labels!
  5. runner14jc
    @jack be nimble Have you tried cutting back on your fragrance load any to see if that helps? I'm not sure what fragrance load you are currently using but if you are maxing out the fragrance, cutting back some on it could be beneficial for your wicks.
  6. runner14jc
    You could test it. I've personally not found that it helps but it is an additive that can be used.
  7. runner14jc
    Oh my goodness! I did the same thing a few weeks ago @Jcandleattic . Thought for sure my pillars were done. I was using a silicone mold and started to unmold. Was halfway done unmolding and all of a sudden hot wax out everywhere! So frustrating so I definitely understand needing to take a break for a bit
  8. runner14jc
    I second IGI 4630. Perfect for container candles. I usually use LX wicks with it and get great results. Something like the LX 18 would be a good starting place for testing if you are doing a 3" diameter container with it. Keep us posted on how you like switching from soy to paraffin!
  9. runner14jc
    I haven't found a great many books that are all around great resources. While I am generally, an avid book reader for candle making and even soap making, my best resources have come from online. Would love to hear what your favorites are though!
  10. runner14jc
    This may be too late for you, but I recently discovered that the CS wick guide has a view all wick suggestions button. If you click on that you can see the complete guide and they still have C3 wax and several palm waxes on there for wick suggestions.
  11. runner14jc
    No, it is not a good idea to use soap colorants in candles. They are designed completely different and the oxide powder may have trouble dispersing in the wax and worst case scenario it could clog your wick and cause burning issues. You will want to stick to colorants designed specifically for candles.
  12. runner14jc
    I primarily use the GB 464 with ECO wicks for my container candles. For melts/tarts I have fallen in love with the EcoSoya Q230. I know there have been a lot of bad things said about that wax but with proper cure time it gives off amazing throw!
  13. runner14jc
    Personally not my favorite fragrance (the Capri Volcano that is), but it is pretty popular. The closest I've tried is the Fruit Slices fragrance from candlescience.
  14. runner14jc
    Keep in mind too that sometimes we expect too much of our candles. Molecules move from areas of high concentration to an area of lower concentrations which makes filling open spaces really difficult. It is much easier to fragrance an enclosed space like a bedroom or a living room that is separate from the rest of the floor plan than it will be with a larger open space. Larger spaces mean more areas of fewer molecules for your fragrance to move into. This will dilute the fragrance in a sense and make it harder to get a powerful hot throw. The same candle in a different room as you have noticed may be perfect.
  15. runner14jc
    Curing will definitely help! The length of time needed can vary depending on the wax. I make melts using the Q230 and have to let them cure for over a week to get a good cold throw. Don't give up on them yet!
  16. runner14jc
    With some dyes, I find that they do not dissolve well if I add them after the wax has melted. I have gotten in the habit of adding dye blocks or chips to my wax right from the get-go so they can both melt together. This solved any issues of having specks of dye left in the bottom of the pouring pitcher. The liquid dye is the only thing I add once the wax is melted.
  17. runner14jc
    I keep them for markets as often potential customers are not ready to buy or want something I don't have with me so they take a card to order online. Also, I put 1-2 in every order I ship with the thought that if they enjoy the products they will pass the cards along to friends or family. Possibly gets more sales! Small cost in my opinion to get my name out more.
  18. runner14jc
    Personally, I hate doing relief holes because it definitely is time-consuming. I've found that adjusting pouring temperature works the best and then right after I pour, I tap the container on my hard pouring surface several times. Just gentle tapping but you can see the air bubbles release and float to the surface and break. It's helped a lot with avoiding surface issues and cavities under the dried surface. I agree I think most larger companies either use paraffin or a para/soy blend. They have their reputation already set and are known for their brand so they can get away with some things smaller businesses can't get away with.
  19. runner14jc
    I have not found a difference regarding the strength of a fragrance with phthalate free or with phthalates. From my research, there is no proven evidence that phthalates in fragrances have any harmful effects, however, a lot of our fragrance suppliers are proactively removing them from fragrances just to be safe. According to the FDA "Phthalates are a group of chemicals used in hundreds of products. The phthalate commonly used in fragrance products is diethyl phthalate, or DEP. DEP does not pose known risks for human health as it is currently used in cosmetics and fragrances."
  20. runner14jc
    I've stopped trying to do both candles and soaps at the same time because inevitably I would measure fragrance for the wrong one. Not a good thing to mix up Almost poured soap last night without even putting the fragrance in at all.
  21. runner14jc
    A great resource to double check names before you settle on one is www.uspto.gov. If you click on trademarks, you can search trademarks and ensure that none of your product names are already trademarked for the same product category.
  22. runner14jc
    I feel like there are certain areas of the country and even certain markets where some customers may prefer soy over paraffin or other waxes. However, the biggest trend I have noticed is that customers just want something handmade. A lot of people are tired of the big brands and are looking for things handcrafted and especially locally handcrafted. In a lot of instances that search for handmade wins over any preference of wax.
  23. runner14jc
    How about ordering on Amazon??? Then you can get it shipped to you and no one has to be the wiser
  24. runner14jc
    I haven't tried making aroma beads yet but Candles and Supplies has a good tutorial on their website: http://www.candlesandsupplies.net/How-To-Make-Aroma-Beads?sc=9&category=267845. They also did a FaceBook video a few months back so you might want to check their page there as well.
  25. runner14jc
    With Paraffin wax you may be able to get away with a single wick. Not sure you would get a good burn with soy wax with one wick. It's a different shape so regardless of what wick you use or wax for that matter, I'm not sure you would get a great burn. This may do better as an ornamental candle. However, I'm curious to see your results and would love to see updates as you test it!
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