Jump to content

runner14jc

Registered Users Plus
  • Content Count

    91
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

About runner14jc

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Interests
    candle and soap making, reading, and anything outdoors or that involves travel!

Converted

  • Makes
    candles

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Most wick stickers operate about the same. The only ones I have found that have a real difference or advantage are the wick sticker Pro version from CandleScience. They have a thinner profile than most of the other wick stickers on the market which is really nice so that your wick sits a little lower to the jar. Otherwise, from a sticking standpoint, I haven't had any issues with any wick stickers that I have tried from any company!
  2. I think paraffin is also a bit more stable in the long run --- in terms of less prone to lot variations. Those of us who have used soy wax have all seen how it can vary and fluctuate over time and from lot to lot. Companies that are mass producing are not wanting to spend time and energy on extra testing that is often required periodically with soy wax.
  3. You may also notice some adhesion issues. Extreme temperature fluctuations can cause the wax to pull away from the sides of the container more. If you are using tins, this may not be as big of a deal but something to keep in mind still.
  4. Great post! I stumbled on this on the CandleScience site a few weeks ago and it fits what you are talking about. They are working to revise anything that is Prop 65 as well it seems which is wonderful news! https://www.candlescience.com/fragrance-oil-revisions
  5. I usually start my testing with the LX wicks from what you mentioned. For that size container, probably something like the LX 22 as a starting point. Or the HTP can do well too, HTP 83 if I were to start testing. I haven't tried the CDs in that wax yet though.
  6. I have seen it before but the guide specifically says at the top that all testing was done with paraffin so I don't think they have wick tested each specific wax. It makes me not trust the recommendations on the guide. I use 464 the most and there is no way that a CD 14 wick will burn a full melt pool in a 3-4" diameter container. I do like the layout and the options of different wick series but I just wouldn't trust the sizes they suggest since it doesn't appear to be backed by testing like some of the other wick guides I have seen are.
  7. This company is pretty new. Everything is imported but at least it is some new styles coming into the US for glassware. https://dreamvessels.com/
  8. I love these: http://www.prestopotwaxmelter.com/
  9. I love that they use the biodegradable peanuts though! Makes it an easy choice for me to reuse them for my own customers! https://www.candlescience.com/about/green-packaging
  10. I usually run into issues with tins if I'm using a high fragrance load with fragrances that have a lot of citruses, vanilla, or cinnamon in them.
  11. Definitely by weight. Just to explain a bit though since I always want to know why Fragrances are all made of different ingredients which means they will take up different amounts of space. Some fragrances are super light and will fill a bottle almost completely, others are really really heavy and do not take up a lot of space. If you measure by volume, you could over or under fragrance your wax which could cause issues. The first time, I really understood the weight concept was when I ordered a Vanilla fragrance. The 16 oz bottle arrived and looked less than 3/4 full but on a scale, it was 16 oz. Hope this helps you!
  12. hahaha, even then, soy wax can't be organic. It goes through a chemical process to turn the soybean oil into a wax....organic soy wax is NOT possible.
  13. I think that with some fragrances you can get away with not having any cure time, however, I have personally tested other fragrances that have no hot throw at day 3 but are super strong 1 week later. I feel the same way about temperature to add fragrance at. There are some fragrances that can add in at a lower temp and be just fine, but there are other fragrances that if added too low they don't bind to the wax and end up seeping out of the wax. It just makes more sense to me to cover my bases by adding fragrances at 185°F and to cure for at least a week that way I know every single fragrance will be good instead of trying to do different practices for each and every fragrance. Personally, I stand by that cure time is necessary and beneficial in most cases.
  14. If you still have LX wicks, you may want to try the LX 16 and LX 18. It sounds like you just have too large of LX wicks so decreasing the size may be an easy fix.
  15. I've never had any trouble with them. Typically, it is just the wax coating on them that is a bit messed up so the performance of the wick itself is not disrupted. At least not any time, it's happened.
×
×
  • Create New...