Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'candles'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Articles
  • Miscellaneous Articles
  • Business Articles
  • Candle Tutorials
    • Container Candles
    • Pillars Candles
    • Gel Candles
    • Hurricane & misc.
    • Melts and Air Fresheners
  • Soap/ B&B Tutorials
    • Soap
    • Lotion
    • Bath Misc.
  • Craft Tutorials
  • Candle Making (FAQ Archive)
  • Soap / B&B (FAQ Archive)


  • Welcome (public. All others require login to view)
    • Welcome & Introductions
    • Board Usage Questions
  • Candlemaking & Home Scenting
    • General Candle Making Discussions
    • Vegetable Wax & Beeswax Candle Making
    • Gel Candle Making
    • Wickless
  • Bath & Body
    • General Soap Making
    • Melt & Pour
    • Bath, Body & Cosmetics
  • Strictly Scents
    • Fragrance Discussion
    • Essential Oil Discussions
    • Fragrance Reviews By Supplier
  • General Crafts
    • Crafty Discussion
  • Recipes
    • Recipe of the Month
    • B & B Recipes
  • Business
    • Business Side of Things
    • Weekly Sales
  • Galleries Old Style
    • Old Style Candle Gallery
    • Old Style B & B Gallery
    • Themed Galleries
  • Candle & Soap Making Acess to Candle Tech

Product Groups

  • Sponsorships
  • Fragrance Dupes
    • TT's Dupe of TSW Pink Sugar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL









About You

Likes / Dislikes

Anti-spam Check

Found 84 results

  1. Hey! So, we use the Golden Wax 444 Soy type with Cotton Core wicks and 7oz Hex Jars with Lids! We've been using JS fragrance oils, and so far things have been great. Our best seller has been the bourbon pumpkin and cotton candy super strong! Although I think we messed up on a few batches 😕 we were heating up the wax to 180° and then adding the fragrance while stirring for 5 minutes. But then we changed the process to where we let it cool down from 180° to 120° before adding fragrance and stirring. Sooooo, I'm thinking it didn't bond properly. (Oops) If you're familiar with this wax, what specific process do you use? Frgrance oils that bond strongly with the wax? Do you add anything to it? What are some of your favorite scents that give off a fantastic scent throw?
  2. Hi! Do you know how stearic acid works in candles? How does the amount of stearic acid affect the wax and the candle? Thanks for your insight!
  3. Hello! My name is Tracie, I was the owner of Warmth Soy Candle Co. I have recently decided to close my business and still have about 300 custom-made wick dippers. I'm wondering if you would be interested in purchasing them from me at cost, $1.50. The mark-up is fantastic, I sold them for $5/ea or 3 for $12. I'm happy to send you short video showing how they work since I can't attach it here. They are really pretty, black matte metal with a twist. Step 1: With the hook end of the wick dipper push the lit wick beneath the melted wax. Step 2: Pull the wick back out of the wax and straighten it after you extinguish the flame. Warmly, Tracie
  4. hi all, can anyone explain why some fragrance oils cause headaches? i've been researching online and found out why but not exactly what ingredient or chemical causes the headache itself... can anyone recommend fragrance oils or suppliers for someone with a sensitive nose? who are your favorite suppliers for natural fragrance oils?
  5. Hello everyone. I just signed up to this forum. I look forward to learning a lot and interacting with fellow candle makers! Little background; My wife and I are just getting started making candles. We live Right outside of Atlanta Ga. Once we perfect making them we are going to teach our 7 year old daughter how make the candles. Eventually we plan to let her do all the candle making, coloring, labeling, scent choices, etc. So candle making will be her hobby and her business, she is super excited about it. We’ve only made 2 candles so far. Products just arrived 4 days ago. We are using gb444 soy wax, fragrance oils from Aztec(that’s where all our products came from), 8oz patio jars, and wi-767 wicks. We test burned 1 with 24hr cure time(probably should have waited longer from everything I’ve read)and not getting strong hot throw at all. We are going to let the other one cure for 1 week. We added FO at 185 degrees and poured at 135. Candles look perfect and cold throw is good. We used 1.25oz of FO in 16oz of wax(both measured by weight and not volume) We plan to test pour a dozen or so tomorrow. Using different FO/wax ratios, different pour temps, different temps we add oil, etc. We are open to any advice, suggestions, and/or criticism. We are only four days into candle making so all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ben
  6. Hi! I have been making candles for just over a year and have been doing ok, but recently I messed up a batch of about 20 candles (ugh) and they are not sellable. They are sweating on the top because I think I added my fragrance oil too far into the cooling process or I simply measured incorrectly trying to rush and get them done (lesson learned). My question is: What do you do with larger batches of candles when they go bad? Mine are in glass containers so at least it's recyclable, but it would take me a while to burn through 20 candles and I make them in a one bedroom apartment so not much room to stack them around. I know sweating isn't detrimental to the candle itself, but it looks ugly and its too severe to ask the customer to "dab the tops". What is your best way of dealing with candle waste?
  7. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  8. I have tried so many wicks but not sure why the flame of my candle just blows out like in 15 mins and also I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong the kind of jar I’m using is a Square mason 8oz glass jar. I’m not sure what kind of wick should I buy from amazon 😓
  9. What is your favorite type of dye for soy wax and why? I've used liquid dye with success in paraffin in the past, but haven't had very good luck in soy. I've been using dye blocks from LSCS and they seem to work well and I have never tried dye chips.
  10. I was on Candles & Supplies today and noticed a paracoconut wax. Has anyone tried it out + what are your thoughts. I was also thinking of getting some oils too. Heres what I have in my cart - Tobacco Vanilla (Tom Ford Dupe) Cranberry Chutney - Gingerbread Applesauce Cake - Honey - Hot Buttered Rum - Christmas Splendor I had Oatmeal Cookie too but it suddenly Sold Out Any opinions would be greatly appreciated .
  11. Hi. I couldn't find anything on this topic. I know triple pressed palm stearic acid is more refined or pure so I imagine it's mainly for use with Bath & Body products rather than candles. Does anybody know if their is an advantage to using the triple pressed palm stearic acid in candles instead of the regular or double pressed palm stearic acid? Like any issues with wick clogging if you don't use triple pressed or etc? Just curious about other's experience with stearic acid. I recently started doing a few tests with both stearic acids at the same percentage in some container candles and so far I can't tell any difference.
  12. I have exhausted myself reading through dozens of topics on here... and I was all ready to hop on the FO wagon when I came across people discussing the health issues (asthma, headaches...etc.) they experienced when breathing in FO's for hours everyday. The solution was to wear a respirator. Now... I'd be willing to do that and possibly get an air purifier down the road if that's what needs to be done... but if EO's can work, then I think I'd rather attempt that just for mine and my family's own sake. I'd be doing these candles in a very small apartment with no real way to vent the air. My husband and I have both developed seasonal allergies the last couple of years and our cat seems to have her own set of allergies as she often has sneezing fits. So, I guess my questions are: Have you had any luck getting EO's to work in candles (I'm wanting to use coconut/beeswax) Would EO's work better in something like tarts?? How well do they work in soaps & bath bombs? I really love some of the scents in FO's... but I'm a lot more weary now after having read through some of the posts on here. I even took it one step further and read through some of the MSDS on some oils... one of them said "may cause cancer". I realize most anything can cause cancer these days it feels like but when you've known people who have had cancer ... it really makes you question things like this. Especially when I'd be surrounded by these oils all day and not just a few hours at a time while burning here and there. I was also a bit concerned about the issues FO's present when they end up in the water system and in the MSDS, it says to keep it out of the drains. So... how do you clean your materials when you're done?? Or do they mostly mean just in large quantities? Anyway... what are your thoughts??
  13. Hey everyone! I have made more than a couple batches so far of GB 464. As I found the CT was awesome but the HT was not good, I started reading up and down this blog. While it may be the wicking (I'll find out soon when new batch cures), I am weary to keep spending money on what seems like a shaky soy market. I bought 4 candles from 4 different companies that are 100% soy and they are awesome. Seems like conflicting thoughts out there. 1) If I was to simply test a couple different wax makeups, which would you recommend? (beeswax+cococut, parasoy, etc..) 2) How do the % change when using, lets say, soy vs beeswax? 3) Can anyone tell me if phthalate free has an effect on scent? 4) I know a couple companies who use coconut oil instead of coconut wax. How would that be different? This forum has been an absolute awesome resource. Everyone is so friendly and I learn so much in the little time I have been doing this! Thanks in advanced and excited to hear your experiences!
  14. Hey everyone! I am new to not only this forum but to making candles as well! I am having a great time making candles, but I am new and I realize the importance of learning from the seasoned people in the group here. I wanted to ask a few questions but also wanted to hear things you struggled with in the beginning and have since learned from! Open to all opinions 1) I am currently using 464 GW, soy. I set the candles with the Eco 10 wick. I have been pouring into 4oz and 8oz jars. There are so many opinions on wax and the 464 seems to be the best for less frosting and bubbling, however there are bad reviews. What is your experience? 2) I eventually want to make a business of this. I heard shipping them in hot areas can deform the product (464) Any insight to that and will changing the wax greatly change the HT? 3) I'm using the Eco 10 wick. It seems like there is some tunneling on the first candle I burned. The mason jar is about 2.5in wide, which is recommended by CandleScience. Insight on this issue? 4) I only burned one, as I have heard to let them cure for a week or two. What's the average time you let your cure for? Do you get better HT when you let them sit longer? Is there a too long? 5) Any insight and experiences that could save me a huge headache relating to wax, FO, etc. would greatly help! I know this will take time to make this into a business and get the formulas down, but I am willing to learn and screw up to make the best product I can! Thanks ahead of time for your responses!
  15. Im searching for the perfect black coffee fragrance! I want something not super sugary or caramel like all the other coffee scents out there that I’ve found. Opinions? Also when it comes to mixing or measuring fragrance oils, what does everyone use? I’ve read to only use glass or disposable wax cups... but I’m having quite the time finding those (unless I order them) and is it ok to wash the left over fragrance oil out of a glass bowl or cup down the drain...? (Maybe that makes me sound over paranoid, but I have no idea! I’ve heard washing essential oils is a bad idea.. I didn’t know if it was the same thing. )
  16. I am at the moment using EL Millennium wax, and while I do like it so far I’ve been thinking about checking out other waxes as well to find what one works best. I’ve been looking into Golden Brands 415, 444, and nature’s wax C-3. I've heard too many bad things about GB 464. Which do you find better if you’ve had experience with using it (as far as cold/hot throw and nice finished candle tops)? And which are good about shipping to different climates? (I’ve actually read that the 415 can just start melting if it goes into really subtle warm weather temps.. which I think would cause some issues in the future. :/) Thank you in advance!!
  17. Hello! As it says in the subject I am brand new at candle making but already so in love with it and soaking in all the knowledge I can (so any help would be so very appreciated!) my apologies if I put this all in the wrong place or anything. Ive read numerous times that to fix imperfections on the tops of your soy candles you can use left over wax from the pot after pouring. Since the candles do take awhile to dry, how do I reheat the wax left over in the pot without burning off all fragrance so that I can cover up holes? Do I just leave the left over in the pot while they cool and start it warming again..? Also after doing a wick test with one batch of candles to find the right wick for a container/fragrance do I have to do that every time I make a new batch? (Ie: if I mixed supplies today and did a test with three containers/wicks/1 fragrance and found the right one after the correct burn time, the next time I buy that same 1 fragrance/wick/container to actually make the candles, do I need to test it again or can I just make it with the specifications I found work best from the first test and leave it at that?) I have gotten SO MANY different opinions on this, you wouldn’t believe. Besides maybe leaving the wick too long, too much fragrance, or using an unsafe container- is there absolutely anything that could accidentally happen that would make a candle you made dangerous to a consumer? I’m obviously just starting out but would love the opportunity to turn it into a business later on down the road after I get much more experience and I guess I’m just paranoid that maybe there’s things I don’t know that could go horribly wrong? (I do have my warning labels ready and have been reading plenty of safety regulations.. but still.) And FINALLY for the last question: I know the depth of the burn pool is as important as the width... but I am starting off with 8 oz tins. How could I go about seeing how deep the melt pool is without being able to see the sides? Do I want it to touch the edges in the first burn? How deep do you believe the depth should be in each burn? Apologies if these questions are all very “newbie-ish” but that’s just what I am, haha. And I’m sorry to put so many but I need so badly to have people to talk to about this as I’ve been doing SO much research on my own but sometimes it just helps more to get personal help!
  18. My first time making candles, and all was going fine, until they all set. I was recommend using GB 464 Soy Wax, and was advised to play with pour temps. These are results I got going from left to right 120/110/105. if I go above 120 or below 100 I get sink holes. I used 1oz fragrance/1lb wax, and I used dye blocks. I made sure to heat the wax to 185 degrees, before adding anything. I also preheated all jars while wax was cooling so they were still warm during pour. Issues I am having. If you noticed the sandy colored one half of it is shiny looking, and the other half isn't, this was poured at 110 degrees, I only had 3 candles do this. It makes then look like they were poured more then once, but I assure you its one pour. 2nd issue I have is frosting. I personally like it, but my girlfriend doesn't so she want to get rid of as much frosting as possible. I took a hairdryer to them, since I don't have a heat gun, took forever, but it looked fine. 2 hours later, and I noticed the frosting was even worse. The result is the last one in the picture, the brown orange color. Any help to fix these is much appreciated.
  19. For those of you who may be interested, PEAK is back up and running on a smaller scale but running none the less. I know I am happy http://www.peakfragrances.com Their facebook page is http://www.facebook.com/candlesupplies
  20. Hi, I'm a newbie here, hoping to find some help for my candle fails. I hope I haven't missed a post that already covers my problem. I'm a commercial beekeeper and have been making my own beeswax candles for a year or so. It's taken a lot of testing, fails, hair-tearing, etc. I have ALMOST got them just right - burning evenly, wick centred, no sink holes, no cracks (usually), etc. But I have one last problem which is driving me up the wall and over the other side. Sometimes - just sometimes - when the candles set, some of them come away from the jar leaving a messy residue on the glass, making them pretty well unsaleable. More for me to burn, but that's beside the point. You should be able to see what I mean in the pic I posted. The candles there are halfway through cooling, just after second pour, and just at the point of coming away from the jar. I know everyone says beeswax is not for jar candles, and I generally agree when it's 100% beeswax, but I'm adding a small amount of coconut oil to make it softer and burn better - also scent oils as well. So the wax is softer than 100% beeswax. All in all the jars work pretty well for me - except for this one problem. So generally what I do is get the wax up to 70 C in my double boiler, slowly heat the prepared jars in the oven to 150 C (because they cool quickly while pouring). Then I heat a pyrex jug for each scent, pour the wax into the jug, then mix in coconut oil and scent, pour wax into jars and replace the candles into the (now off) oven. I leave a tea towel wedged in the oven door for the first 20 mins or so, to cool the oven down to about 70 C, before leaving it to cool ever so slowly with the door shut. Then pull them out to poke holes and do a second pour about 3 hours later when they're just starting to separate from the jars. So the weird thing is, sometimes they all come out perfect - they all separate from the jars nice and cleanly, leaving no residue. But sometimes there will be one or two, or on a really bad day nearly half the candles which come away from the glass really messily, leaving all this residue stuck to the jars. And I totally don't know WHY, or what I'm doing differently to those few candles that go wrong!! It's seriously driving me MAD! Is the wax too cool when pouring, by the time I mix in the scent and coconut oil? Is there too much coconut oil? Is the oven not hot enough? Was there some residue on the glass before pouring, that I couldn't see? It would be great if someone has some input, before I tear all my hair out! Thanks in advance! :-)
  21. What are your favorite scents from Aztec for candle making?
  22. I currently use Candlescience but have gotten a few from The flaming candle. The flaming candle oils seem to be a bit more runny. Where have ave you found the highest quality FOs to be from? thanks! You're all so amazing and I appreciate each of you. (feel free to move this if it's in the wrong spot.)
  23. Does anyone have any tips for doing layered candles? I am trying to do white candles with a thin black layer on top and I can’t seem to pour the top layer without shrinking and wet spots forming below it.
  24. I have been trying everything to achieve a true black (just in a very thin layer on top) of my soy candles using GW 464. I am still very new to this. I’ve tried color blocks from several manufacturers and just get gray and purple. I finally got one from Bulk Apothocary that turned out a dark enough gray but I think I had to use too much and it wouldn’t burn right. It burned for a little while and the flame got very small and went out. Has anyone had success making a black candle that ALSO burns well?
  25. The prices here are fantastic. I was wondering about the quality. Anyone know? https://www.chemistrystore.com/Products-Fragrance_Oils_A-G.html
  • Create New...