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  1. Hello all Have any of you used FO or EO from either of these for candles or wax melts ? I tried searching old posts but only saw lebermuth + patchouli reviews and Nurture soap had posts about micas so I'm thinking the FO from Nurture is mainly for soap ? If so, any recommendations . Thank you in advance
  2. All soy waxes have what seems like similar ranges of temperatures to heat to, add FO, and pour for optimal performance. Most are in the 185 range to melt, 170 range for FO and 140 right down to slushy for pour. Everyone has a magical process to ensure pretty tops. Let's pretend that pretty tops are also pretty insides that do not include cavities. A concerning trend that has popped up now and again, and is now gaining popularity once more is adding FO near the flash point. The idea is that fragrance flashes off if poured too hot, thereby reducing CT and HT. Please, once and for all let's put this idea in a coffin, nail it shut and bury it deep. Fragrances for candles can take the heat. Many of us use waxes that must be melted to more than 200*F and poured right away with NO degradation of FO. Most of the FO on the candle retail market is also used in cold process soap, which must endure scorching hot lye and a very high pH at the same time with no degradation of throw. We have talked about flash point many times in the past. Here is the crux of the post this time: SOY WAXES CANNOT ALL SET UP SAFETY AND RELIABLY WHEN FO IS ADDED AT A LOW TEMP. Soy waxes are polymorphic, meaning they develop crystals of different sizes and shapes that continue to change for a very long time as they cure. When a wax is not heated hot enough those crystals cannot reach their smallest particle size to make a nice pretty candle top. If you add a low FP FO, like a lemon with a FP of 120, let's say, those cooling crystals begin to form very irregularly and cannot be guaranteed to hold FO reliably. The cooling wax is shocked with a cold FO, so some larger crystals form quikly, and a chain reaction of more irregular crystals begins. This results in an unstable matrix that allows fragrance to move around easily, pool and sink to the bottom. Pro Tip: Once FO is added to your wax, the new flash point is measured by the entire blend. This means if you add 10% of a 100* flash point fo to hot wax with a flash point of say 300*F (would need to look at the safety data sheet for a specific wax to know the exact temp) the new flash point of the wax plus FO will be about 300*F. Practical Example: Here is a candle tin made according to the American Soy directions of melting to 140, add FO and pour at 105. It never hardened properly. Look at the grain sizes. I could stick my finger all the way to the bottom and feel the wet FO all along the container. Had I stuck a wick into it I would likely have caused a candle fire when the flame hit pooled FO. This same exact thing happens to every other soy wax in my shop (C1, C3, 464, 415, 444) This tin sat in my shop for nearly 3 months with grains continuing to morph. It mocked me. Rather than dump it, I scraped it all back into the presto pot and heated to 200*F and poured right back into the tin to cool over night. Here it is today: There was ZERO loss of CT, in fact it smells more clean and pure than before the reheat. I feel confident popping a wick into this one in a week or two to burn and know it will be a beautiful candle from top to bottom. I know the FO is trapped homogeneously through the entire candle from top to bottom. I will probably use an apple corer to pop a tabbed wick in and can examine the core quality at the same time. Not satisfied with one experiment, I took another tin made at the same time, but with 10% added coconut oil 92. When it was first made according to the directions, the candle cooled with a giant pool of FO on top. When I scraped it all into the melter last night, heated to 200*F, and immediately poured, this is what I found this morning: The rim ring is from the last bit of cooling shrinking into the middle. I can push on the top and dent (thumb print bottom left) but can feel the soy grains are very tiny and smooth. No pooling. No FO fade. No sinking. A safe looking candle that I will burn in a couple of weeks. So this made me push the envelope a little. If this can hold 10% coconut oil, what would happen if I put 20% and heated to 200? Look for yourself. Shiny, and smooth as a baby's bum. The imperfections are from me poking at it to see how soft it is. I can push but not poke a finger through it. This one does not have scent, so I cannot be certain of what it will hold with that much added coconut oil. That would be another test that I expect will fail in hot weather because midwest soy wax does not have additives that will hold it all together safely at those levels. Instead I'll use it as a baseline test for a candle just for me. Moral of the story: Do yourself a favor and ignore the bad advice to add FO at low temps. At best, your candle will form ugly grains that burn ugly. At worst, the FO will seep, possibly pool and cause a candle fire. Flash point has nothing to do with adding FO to wax. In fact, once added to wax even the lowest flash point FO now has a new flash point that is almost as high as the flash point of the wax itself: 300+ degrees F typically. OK My Candleistas, you are now wicked smart about flash point and will always add fragrances at higher temps now.
  3. Ive been seeing a lot of candles that are advertised as soy + beeswax candles and Id like to give it a try. Is anyone familiar what a good ratio is - do you use unscented or natural beeswax and any suggestions on which wick series to try out. Thank you in advance
  4. Hello! I am currently using GW 444 Soy Wax and I am having a hard time with wick sizes. I use mason jars that are 8 oz The ball brand regular and wide mouth. So, the diameter is 2 inches and 2.5 inches. I was curious to what size you all use for your candles? Also, I typically use 1.5 to 2 oz of FO with no dye.
  5. Hi everyone! have y’all ever experienced this issue before? I am using GB 444. I heat up wax to 190, add oil at 185 (anywhere from 8%-10%, depending on the FOs strength), stir for 2 minutes (clockwise and counterclockwise), and pour almost immediately after stirring (temp is usually anywhere from 160-175 after that). I let them cure for 1-2 weeks. This is my general process! however, a few of my friends who test my candles have said that although they smell amazingly when first lit, the candle loses it scent throw or it weakens on the 2nd burn (or sometimes half way through). what am I doing wrong? I know GB 444 is “inconsistent” but I thought that was just in regards to craters/holes/air bubbles. I use a heat gun 90% of the time. Is there inconsistencies in scent throw/performance, too?! Other factors: I use CD wicks, mostly. I live in Los Angeles so the weather is usually on the warmer end, except in recent months. The people lighting my candles also live in LA. the only explanation I can tell myself is that maybe I’m overwicking & it’s burning through the oil quicker than the wax itself? But I’m new to this so I would appreciate any/all input! BTW, this doesn’t happen to ALL my candles, but it’s happened enough for me to be concerned. thank you!
  6. Hi everyone - I am a newbie to candle making. I am having difficulty wicking my 3" diameter straight sided 16 oz. glass jar. I am using Mid West container soy wax with an 11% fragrance load. I have tried single wicking this jar with many many different wicks and I get no hot throw at all. I started double wicking and the hot throw is great but I feel like the jar temperature gets way too hot for my liking. The melt pool reaches about 3/4" deep by the hour mark for all the double wicks I have tried. If anyone can provide some insight, that would be great! I have been wick testing for about 6 months to no avail. Please help!!!! I have tried: HTP Premier RRD CD Eco
  7. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  8. Hi everyone! I just started my candle making journey and was wondering if any of you could help me with the issues I've had so far and for which I couldn't find an answer on the interwebs. I've used Kerasoy container blend wax for my first batch of candles, have made 3 different scents using essential oils and have used TRC pre-wax wicks of 2 different sizes. I let the candles cure for 48 hours as recommended for Kerasoy wax and notices straight away that the candles were all solidifying with a raised bump around the wick. Not a hole or a crack as I read in many 'soy candle problems' posts, just a little 'mountain' formed around the week. After the 48 hours I lit up the first candle and straight away the surfaced cracked around the week and bubbles kept coming out of it. The candle has been burning for 30mins now, there is definitely a crack but the bubbles have stopped and there is no tunneling so far (I think). Could any more-experienced candle makers help me figure out what I've done wrong and how to avoid it? Many thanks!
  9. Hey! So, we use the Golden Wax 444 Soy type with Cotton Core wicks and 7oz Hex Jars with Lids! We've been using JS fragrance oils, and so far things have been great. Our best seller has been the bourbon pumpkin and cotton candy super strong! Although I think we messed up on a few batches 😕 we were heating up the wax to 180° and then adding the fragrance while stirring for 5 minutes. But then we changed the process to where we let it cool down from 180° to 120° before adding fragrance and stirring. Sooooo, I'm thinking it didn't bond properly. (Oops) If you're familiar with this wax, what specific process do you use? Frgrance oils that bond strongly with the wax? Do you add anything to it? What are some of your favorite scents that give off a fantastic scent throw?
  10. Hi fellow candle making addicts - I am a noob; hooked on this perfectly imperfect craft. I'd like to get a sense of what your personal favorite soy waxes are for containers. Which did you hate if any? i have been using GB 464 and also tried GB 444 from Candle Science - not sure how i feel yet, because I don't know what I don't know??? My cold throw is always amazing, my hot throw varies from lame to ok. I did learn to cure my candles for best results! Wicking is something I am trialing through - HTP is terrible, CD so far seems my favorite, trying ECO next. ANYWAY, I cant help but wonder, if I am traveling down the wrong road in the first place with my wax choices.... What is your favorite and why? thanks friends 💜
  11. I have been using GW416 and tried to save some money on shipping with a different company, so I order the akosoy LP416, which I was under the impression was the same wax. (Ordered from Southern Scentsations, aka great candle.com) I've attached pics of my test batch with this wax. Not quite 24 hours out on the pour, cold throw is good, but the tops, omg the tops! I've never had this happen with a wax. Does this mean the wax is just crap wax and I've wasted my money? (Bought a 50lb box of it!) or do I need to blend with a parasoy blend wax like ProBlend 650 so I don't have a total loss? Or will a heat gun, if I get one, fix this problem? Have anyone ever used this wax for tarts? It's not the oils, t first I thought it was so I used a different oil from a different company and same thing. Can anyone give any suggestions on what to do? I just got crankin on getting my scents out and they've been awesome! Now this... It's totally disheartening. ?
  12. Has anyone tried covering a pint canning jar of just-poured warm soy wax with a canning lid that has a hole in the middle of it for the wick? I was just thinking about those 3D "printed" wick centerers that someone posted and how I could use a canning lid as an alternative to hold my wicks in place while the wax is cooling. GoldieMN
  13. Does fragrance oil play any part in soy wax glass adhesion? If there is no other visible signs that the fragrance oil does not blend well. TIA
  14. Hello! I am a newbie, trying my hand at soy wax melts. After reading, researching and making several batches of soy wax melts, I was able to finalize a formulation that fills our master bedroom with fragrance. However, the same formulation doesn't work with electric wax warmers. I have tried warmers with 25 Watt bulbs for testing, as was recommended by some. But, no joy! So, essentially if I melt my soy wax melts using a ceramic tea-light warmer, the hot throw is just fantastic. However, wax melts from the same batch, when placed in an electric warmer with a 25 Watt bulb, give out zero fragrance. Yes, zero! Not even a mild scent. I get just no scent throw at all! I have tried electric wax warmers from different brands that have five-star rating from hundreds of customers. So, I know for sure that they are good quality. What am I doing wrong? I have spent months perfecting my formulation and am looking to sell my wax melts online and in local stores. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
  15. So I am fairly new to candle making. I’ve been trying at it for the past 6 months and of course like everyone else, the frustration has set in. I am currently using 4oz and 8oz tin containers and using c3 wax. My struggle is figuring out what size/type of wick I should use for my candles. I am not getting a strong hot scent throw. The current fragrances that I have been using come from Justscents.com. I am currently testing different wicks to see what would work best. I purchased sample wicks packets with all different sizes of wicks. Some of the ones that I have are Premier, HTP, CD and ECO. Does anyone have any suggestions on the type of wick I should use and size based on the information I provided? If you need any any other information please let me now so I can provide. Any assistance will be great appreciated! Picture below is me testing the HTP 93 m wick. I let it burn for about 2 hours.
  16. I am just starting to make candles with the hopes of selling them eventually. I am in the process of determining what kind/s of wax to use. I have solely been working with different types of soy wax up to this point. However, there seems to be some benefits from other types of wax (i.e. parrafin and palm). When I research some of my favorite candle companies (Archipelago, Voluspa, Capri Blue, Paddywax, Nest, etc.) they all appear to use a blend of waxes and not just soy. I would like to be "environmentally friendly" and create a "clean" candle but not necessarily at the expense of scent throw and quality. My questions are... Has anyone found selling candles with palm or parrafin wax harder to sell to consumers? Do customers seem to care what wax you use when you are selling them at craft fairs or wholesale to stores? I would appreciate any insight people may have!
  17. I read a lot of post on here mentioning soy wax had a lot of problems. That is the sole wax I used when I made candles oh about 15 years ago. I’m getting ready to order some wax to start back up so I’ve been researching other waxes because the whole soy wax issues have kind of scared me off. I keep leaning back to soy since it’s what I knew. I read how they have factories now dedicate just to making soy wax now so has that solve the problems with the soy wax or is it still unpredictable? I mean any wax can be different slightly between batches especially vegetable because the crops are different but it seem like a lot of people was having really bad results so I just kind a wanted some feedback before I jump into it because I don’t wanna keep changing it I won’t kind of stick to one wax and perfect it again. Also it’s taking me multiple months to get the money up to get supplies so I really don’t want to fail horribly since I need it to make it work. TIA edit: I’m leaning towards EzSoy since that’s which one I preferred in the past after trial and testing. I’m open to others though.
  18. Hi, I am relatively new to candle & tart making but seem to be getting the hang of it. I want to try making a massage candle & found links to Soapqueen’s recipes on this forum. It seems a lot like making lotion bars. My question is on soy waxes. I have 2 blends that I know can’t be used - a parasoy & GB 464. However, I also have some GB 402 on the way for another project. From what I’ve read, this is pure soy, has a low melt point and is FDA approved. I’ve seen conflicting thoughts on using it in cosmetics (lotion bars & massage candles), though. Is there any reason not to use 402 in skincare products? I specifically want a low melt point. And I really don’t want to buy more wax just for a few massage candles for personal use. Thoughts?
  19. Just curious.....has anyone tried soy from California Candle Supply? Looks like they have a soy Pillar wax that comes in slab form. As well as other options. It's slim pickins' out there for Pillar soy, so I've still been searching for a good option for testing.
  20. So I've been making candles for a while now, And I've never has any problems with my wicks, until this happened. Customer wants to know what's causing it and I have no clue. At first I thought it was an extreme case of mushrooming, but after getting the pictures I'm not so sure. any ideas?
  21. Hello, My first post! But I’ve been lurking for a few months 😄 soaking up all the incredible info you have all kindly provided. Such a wealth of knowledge! Thank you. I recently started making Soy Candles, just for myself and family. I use Naturewax C3, 10oz straight sided tumblers and Eco wicks. On a recent trip to Target, I stopped by the candle section and sniffed a Chesapeake Bay ‘Snuggly Sweater’ Candle. In love with this scent ☺️ What I am wondering is, does anyone happen to know a very close fragrance oil, I could use to recreate this for myself? Below is the description of the scent: “Experience Snuggly Sweater - comforting notes of warm wool wrap around lavender and rose as it rests on a base of white amber, vanilla and musk ready to snuggle up to.” Thank you so much! ~ Sarah
  22. Hi there! I’m lookin looking for a great pear FO that works great in soy wax. I’ve tried PEAKS Bartlett Pear in the past and while it’s good it takes awhile to get a medium HT from it. Anyone tried Filmore’s French Pear? I’ve seen that one.
  23. Hi. Does anyone know if 444 works for melts and whether it needs additives? Thank you for any advice ?
  24. Hello! I'm new to this forum, but have been reading (very helpful) posts since I began candlemaking last year. A little bit of backstory: up until a few months ago, I'd been using a blend of 464 and CB Advanced with amazing results. My FO load was 12% (high, I know!), my scent throw was great and I never had frosting. Now that CBA is no more, I feel miserable, but I've been testing out new combinations. Right now, I'm working with a combo of 464 and Q210. I've got a handle on my 8oz jar sizes, but I'm having a lot of trouble with my 2oz tins. No matter what temperature I pour, I'm getting a weird 'oily swirl' on top of them and terrible, terrible frosting (immediately, as soon as they set). I figured it had to do with the FO, so I lowered it to 9%, but I'm STILL having trouble. Maybe it's the wax itself? I guess the oily swirl wouldn't be so bad if I could just get the tops to stop frosting. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get them to stop frosting and get rid of that mysterious swirl or 'oil leech'? Thanks SO much!
  25. I received my order from American Soy last week. I ordered a 10 lb bag of Pillar/votive wax for wax melts and I also ordered several 2 oz FO's. One thing I noticed off the bat was that the wax pellets had a slight smell while melting. I noticed it more as it was melting than once fully melted another was it dries shiny. Also the CT was ok but Ive gotten much better CT from 464 or a blend of waxes Ive used for wax melts. Ive used other pillar waxes and I don't recall them being shiny ? Does anyone here use American Soy, what do you think of this wax or any of they're waxes ( Millennium or Container wax ) My absolute favorite FO's I received were - Lemon Cheesecake - this is the first cheesecake FO that I can actually smell the graham cracker crust. It smells delicious. Oatmeal Cookie is good too, to my nose smells sorta like RE Grandmas Cupboard Orange - Also very good, it smells like fresh squeezed OJ + that natural sweet scent the OJ has . Firewood - Its not bad but its not what I was expecting either. It doesn't have that burning log smell. I believe its a HB Type. Its a tad cologne -y IMO but not too bad but I think I prefer ones that smell more like actual fire logs. Bourbon Pumpkin Cake - I don't get much cake but I do smell the bourbon + a little pumpkin. I didn't get much of a CT from this one Eucalyptus Lavender - Not sure what I was expecting but I don't get much lavender + the euc is not anything thing euc EO - at all . This is more of a relaxing type scent . I was planning on mixing some of the orange with the euc/lavender so I'll see how it turns out. @Trappeur you mentioned Candle Soylutions has a great Lemon cheesecake Its a EL FO so I believe its the same one I have from American Soy since they sell EL FO + Millennium wax. If anyone uses their Millennium or container wax do they also dry shiny and any issues with CT ? The packing was stellar and shipped super fast
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