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Jcandleattic last won the day on September 14

Jcandleattic had the most liked content!

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About Jcandleattic

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    The Write Stuff
  • Birthday May 18

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    Stuck in my head
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    Candle-making, Soap-making, B&B - pretty much anything crafty.


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    Candles, Soap, B&B products
  • Location
    Stuck inside my head
  • Occupation
    Candle, Soap and B&B maker
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  1. This will make a total of the 4th "going out of business" debacle.
  2. At this point it really sounds like you are waiting too long to carve, and the candle is too cool to carve. The outside layers have to be warm to the touch. So much so that by pressing in with your finger with very slight pressure you can make a huge dent. If that is not happening, you are carving too cool and will need to up your dip temps, and work faster. How many layers are you dipping? For even my small lighthouse candles, I dip at least 20-25 layers. Otherwise, I have no idea.
  3. They both smell exactly the same. LOVE IT - and since I won't buy from Peak anymore, I'm glad to have a backup.
  4. When I carve my core candle is also hollow and I put a tube with liquid paraffin in it to burn. I scent that, not the carving. Scenting the core candle and the dipping layers, IMO is a waste. With the pigments, and layers the cold throw would be diminished (which also diminishes over time as well, just due to exposure to the atmosphere around it) Plus there is so much extra for the layers, you would end up with only THAT scent for a LOT of candles. Only scent what you will burn then you won't need to worry about the carving temp. Pour your scented wax into the center after the candle has been carved.
  5. Most people don't scent carved candles, because they are meant for decoration, purposes, and generally don't burn well anyway, due to the pigments used and the wick size. You would have to have your FO at a sustained temp for many hours for it to burn off, and not give off a throw. Your core candle has to stay warm, as well as your overdip wax, or it will get brittle and break when trying to carve, because it's cooling too fast. I only add the microcrystalline to the overdip wax, and not the wax I'm making the core candle with. I see you are near me. I have a whole vat set-up I'm contemplating selling.
  6. exactly this, you don't have to scent soap, you can still make it, use it, and enjoy it without it being fragranced.
  7. Actually it doesn't. A straight paraffin pillar wax is ideal for carving. Actually probably the best wax that can be used for the process... A straight paraffin wax is what @Josh Nexus is using, however, look into getting some Microcrystalline wax as an additive. Use about 1oz per lb of paraffin wax, and that will not only make the pillar wax more pliable (less brittle and easier to carve), it will also keep the layers adhered to each other so they don't separate. Another thing is to up your dipping wax temp to about 190-200°, and make sure you are carving when the layers are still warm. Also keep your water dip at room temp. No need to make it warmer or cooler, all it's really doing is cooling the wax very slightly so the next layer adheres a bit better.
  8. You've probably already named the soap, but it looks very "Rastafarian" or Jamaican. Jamaica's colors are red, yellow, green and black. (I know, no black in this, but to me it still looks very Jamaican!)
  9. I used to keep my pillars in the freezer until I wanted to light them. Sometimes I'll throw one of my pillars in there just for the fun of it, and never have problems, however, I only use palm and paraffin to make my candles.
  10. Straight unblended paraffin wax works best. I typically used to use IGI 1343A. It's a very versatile wax, and I never had problems. I've not carved in a few years though...
  11. Recipe is in the body of this thread. You may need to tweak a bit -
  12. With paraffin wax I double wick my 16 oz apothecary jars with 2 44-18z wicks. Works well with most colors and scents I use. Sometimes I do have to wick up a bit, but only on heavy FO's or when I saturate with a dense color
  13. Thanks! They were all so fun to make.
  14. Thank you, no haven't named it yet. Something will come to me when I get ready to package it up.
  15. It wouldnt' be that hard to actually do, however, I can never get straight lines in my rainbow soaps though. All you'd have to do is make a rainbow soap, cut it out in a heart shape, then put it inside a pvc pipe mold. As said, it wouldn't be hard but it would be extremely time consuming which would drive the price up making it pretty much unaffordable for the amount of soap it would actually yield.
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