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Jcandleattic last won the day on January 4

Jcandleattic had the most liked content!

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About Jcandleattic

  • Rank
    The Write Stuff
  • Birthday May 18

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    Stuck in my head
  • Interests
    Candle-making, Soap-making, B&B - pretty much anything crafty.


  • Makes
    Candles, Soap, B&B products
  • Location
    Stuck inside my head
  • Occupation
    Candle, Soap and B&B maker
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  1. That's a rustic look caused by a cool pour. You can also get hesitation lines that are a bit more pronounced that than by pouring hesitantly or too slowly and getting what are called "jump lines"
  2. Rose scents for me are like chocolate scents - I like them, but cannot GIVE them away on a silver platter. Nobody seems to want them. I've tried for years mixing, making them unique, naming them something that has nothing to do with rose, etc., etc. Nothing works, they just do not sell for me. So since they don't sell, I don't make them anymore. The absolute best rose scent I have ever found though is Rose Bouquet from Peak. Smells exactly like a real rose. All others I've tried either smell of plastic, perfume or something people consider "old lady".
  3. Jcandleattic

    Candle Retirement is Official!

  4. Jcandleattic

    An observation

    this is my experience as well. I rename mainly because I have too. When I blend I rarely blend less than 3 scents, and typically it's usually 3-4, and if I named my candle all the names of the scents I use, it would take up the entire label, and people would probably just look at it and be confused (I have some really strange FO combinations, that seem like they shouldn't work, but they do)
  5. Jcandleattic

    Let's talk Mushrooms

    ding ding ding - this is exactly my thoughts.
  6. Jcandleattic

    Gel phase

    Exactly, soap will become soap whether gel is achieved or not. As long as saponification is achieved as TT said, you will still get soap. I don't force gel in an oven, but do like to gel my soaps by wrapping in towels and not peeking during saponification.
  7. Jcandleattic

    Glycerine Rivers!

    I agree with Shari. The more liquid I use, I get rivers, regardless of colorant. I also soap at about 33% and very rarely get rivers. However, I honestly don't care if I get them or not. To me, it's like candles and wet spots - it's just a part of the process I have to embrace.
  8. Jcandleattic

    Candle Safety Info at Shows

    All you can do is what you have already done, with brochures and information. When they ask and if you've repeated yourself too many times, smile hand them a brochure and let them know all information is in the document. They best we can do is to make sure we have done our due diligence with our testing, our labelling, having insurance in place and hope our customers are smart enough not to burn their houses down.
  9. Jcandleattic

    Double Glassed Method Gel candles

    Unfortunately Vicky is no longer on the board as she has passed away a few years ago.
  10. Jcandleattic

    Greatest Wick Chart Ever

    As with most guides like this, it's exactly that. A guide. It'll give you a starting point, but you'll still need to test for your application. As runner said, some of the suggestions I can see just by looking are way off and would never work for me and my applications.
  11. Jcandleattic

    Test Burning Question

    It depends on the size of your jar. For my 5oz and 16oz apothecary's if it was to reach a FMP on the first burn, I would not be able to touch that jar once its burned half way down because it would be WAY too hot and wicked too big. If it doesn't reach the edges until the end of the 2nd or even middle of the 3rd burn I feel it's off to a good start, but when testing you want to test the whole candle from beginning to end to get a good judge on how your candle is going to burn. My shorter squat candles that don't have the depth that my afore mentioned sizes do, a FMP is justified (to me) in the first or second burn. You just want to make sure that the candle you are burning burns correctly and most importantly, safely.
  12. Jcandleattic

    help finding organic shea lye free soap base

    you will only be able to find that in a Shea Butter Melt and Pour, and you should be able to google the different suppliers for the specifications you need, however it will have been originally made with lye. All soap has to be made with lye in order to become soap or else it will not become soap. No lye, no soap.
  13. Jcandleattic

    Using Wax Blends Interchangeably

    It does apply as I use a low shrink votive wax blend for my votives, and still add stearic and vybar.
  14. Jcandleattic

    Using Wax Blends Interchangeably

    I add stearic and vybar to my votives, it still doesn't make it sturdy enough to be a stand alone mini "pillar"
  15. Jcandleattic

    Using Wax Blends Interchangeably

    That depends on if the blend is hard enough and shrinks enough to get it out of the mold, and then holds up enough not to liquify completely when burning to turn into a puddle of wax and become a hazard. Typically if it's a low shrink wax it's melt point is low enough that it will not hold it's shape enough either to get it out of the mold, or if you are lucky enough to get it out of the mold, it won't hold it's shape while burning.