birdcharm

Can you tell us more about the wax as well as how much vybar you've used?

I think it goes like this with the vybar ... 103 is for waxes having melting points above 140°F and the other code number (which I can't think of at the moment) is for under 140°F. If the wax you are using already some vybar or a similar additive included in it, then you may not need to use it, as too much can bind the scent too "tightly" to the wax.

For plastic bottles, I do as others in rinsing them out after they're empty and put them in the recycling. We have to take our recycling to a center, but I recycle all possible plastics. Prior to rinsing, I turn the bottle upside-down and pour any contents into a smaller bottle, etc. Of course, there is going to be a trace amount left, but I've always felt that it's okay to rinse that out, I typically use a degreaser type of dish soap. Glass bottles are the ones I save for future mixing events and experiments. :)

It seems likely that any kind of nylon would work ... anyone know? There are other types of garments that might be nylon. Just a thought! I'm not sure how other people flatten their pillar candles, but I use a warmed aluminum pan and "swirl" the bottom of the candle over the hot surface, then quickly set it down on a flat surface to harden. If your pillar won't smooth out, are you opposed to a "grubby" type of design? Last winter, I had one that didn't have a nice surface, so I crumbled up some foil and flattened it out, poured hot wax on it and then rolled the candle over it. It was messy, but it came out kind of interesting. I think there are several techniques for doing an outer layer.

I'm wondering if the current events in regard to trade with China might keep our soy wax prices down? From May 4, 2018 ... "U.S. government data show China has been canceling U.S. soybean orders for three-straight weeks. " ... "Using soybeans as a retaliation for other trade disputes is really worrisome for farmers," said Gregg Fujan, a soybean grower in Nebraska. "Those international markets are critical to our profitability. So hopefully the people doing those negotiations can come to an agreement and we can get this worked out." Sen. Chuck Grassley, R-Iowa, said in a statement Thursday that soybean prices remain low and growers "are barely making ends meet." He called on the Trump administration to take short-term steps "to help farmers if they are harmed" by the retaliation. Longer term, though, he said there's a need for the administration to help the industry "find alternative foreign markets." Article

I have used some of the "flutter dies" in a dark blue and they were very potent.

I apologize for not spotting this sooner! Thanks @Jcandleattic !! If your gel is going to be for a topping only, I wouldn't even worry about it at all, just use your regular candle scent. It's when the gel is the entire candle, or a greater portion than just topping when there is the consideration of the scent sinking to the bottom. In your case, you have soy wax there that is going to take up the scent. Just make sure you're using a wick that burns well with both gel and soy.

Since you're in the south, what about Peppermint Julep? I see there is a recipe for that drink, includes Peppermint Schnapps. So many great ideas, I'm not sure if I saw that one.

I've only done it with paraffin or parasoy, not with straight soy, but I've always used a fork or a whisk. Lake Havasu City ... I've heard there's the London Bridge there (the one that fell down).

I recently saw a candle by a local candle company and it had the wrong weight on it too -- it was the size of the jar. Amazing. You know, from a selling standpoint, I would let them do their thing since they are already doing it this first time around, but I would mention the weight topic somewhere along the line so they fix it on their next label. As for their name on the candle, I think they feel that you are their candle maker and they are putting their name on it. In some ways, that's quite a compliment, as they have obviously burned your candles and trust that you know what you're doing. Then, also, before they print any more labels, you might discuss that if it still concerns you.

It's always fun to pour your first candles. I don' t pour tins myself, but it looks like you're off to a good start.

There are a lot of fun techniques that can be used to make them interesting pieces, it's too bad that it's as you say with some sellers.

Unscented candle gel doesn't really smell very good, it has a slight bit of odor ... add to that a zinc wick and unscented really isn't, lol. Only non-polar fragrance oils should be used, otherwise, among some other things, the gel will cloud, so, essential oils, I believe, would cloud the gel. There are two main reasons I like them ... they burn for a very long time, and they put out a lot of light!

That candle must have a lot of air pockets!

It looks as though the small zinc wicks are burning cooler. How is the scent throw on that one? I'm thinking two HTP's in a smaller size, like the next size down or so, may give similar results as the zincs you're using, without the need for the rigid core since it's a shallow candle, and may burn nicer than the zinc. But, I think the size of the zinc is doing well.

Hi & welcome, I use the same wax as you are using for my soy candles, but I've never used the Eco wicks ... however, I have a file with all sorts of wick notes and I just took a look. According to the notes I have, a 2.5" diameter jar would call for an Eco-4 or 6 ... maybe if I bump your post someone with experience with these wicks will chime in. As for shipping candles with a low melt point wax in hotter months, that would be a bit tricky. It's not so much the trip that is hot for the Post Office to Post Office, it's the delivery part that could get hot, or the package left on a hot porch. Packages that are sent to the Post Office for pick-up typically would mostly stay indoors, that's my guess anyway! I think you'll find that most people allow their soy candles to cure for a couple of weeks. I doubt there is a "too long" really as far as curing goes.

Yes, as TallTayl described. Are you burning in an enclosed area or a room that isn't a larger, open area? What type of wax & wick, etc. are you using?

I've been thinking this over and I've got to say that I agree with everyone that there have been inconsistencies with this wax, or fluctuations in how it needs to be worked with, etc. ... but I must admit that I feel this candle may not be the best example of this wax due to the pouring/temp method. Regarding the scent throw, in order to think about that a little more, it would be helpful to know what type of wick was used, and I apologize if I missed that info. somewhere along the line. Please know that I'm not trying to criticize, but I think it's important that we have as much information as possible in order to further our knowledge about how or how not to work with this wax.

I think the cracks in the lower part of your candle occurred due to pouring too hot ... I think soy should be expected to crack poured at those temperatures. Why are you pouring the bottom layer so hot?

That's interesting about the beeswax, I didn't realize that (about the drafts or uneven air flow), but I have read that if it cools too quickly it can crack, so this is new to me and interesting too, as it's another take on the process. With soy, it seems to like cool to semi-cool pouring and a slow setting. I don't think soy wax is the best candidate for layering, at least not pouring in layers as in allowing one layer to cool very much, although soft layers can be achieved nicely with colors if the candle as a whole is kept warm in the process.

If you are thinking of starting your business this year, then start saving the receipts that are going to go toward making this happen. Then, let's say in the fall, you start marketing and selling candles, by the time it's time to do your taxes, you will have your paperwork collected to be able to sort through to determine your inventory or other expenses. In regard to part of your home used in your business, if it is used exclusively for your candles, such as a workshop, then that is a consideration with your taxes, but it needs to be devoted to your business only.

A full melt pool should not be reached within two hours ... some may take four, others more. Welcome!

You mean the cars are driving past your house? Hurry!! ... get out there ... set up some tables, put up a sign "Get Your Candles Here!"

I'm still curious about this question as well, and I too have asked, so I'm hoping @Jeana will tell us at what temperature this wax is cracking so we all know what temps to avoid. I've still been pouring my wax from last fall at 140-150 and haven't experienced any issues with it, so I'm wondering if this is now something to be concerned with in purchasing newer stock. Also, I've never had 464 ( 5702-02-02 ) frost, even after burn sessions, it rarely does so, although I have had 415 ( 5715-00-77) and 444 (5715-02-02) do that a bit after burning the candle. Jeana ... at what temperature did you pour the candles that experienced cracking? P.S. I'd like to add that I really don't think frosting is so bad, kind of like the wet spots, it's just part of what this stuff is, I guess.

Funny, I don't buy them, but hubby brought some home and since I hadn't had any in many years, I could really tell it wasn't the same ... my thought was that a Hydrox cookie would be better if I wanted that type of cookie. I know what you mean about the candy bars, Hershey's Special Dark is nothing like it was, which used to my favorite. I have an old set of refrigerator magnets that look like the old mini candy bars, one of which is that type, at least I have that, lol.