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pughaus

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pughaus last won the day on February 17

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About pughaus

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    CANDLES

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  1. I'm a little confused. If you want your embeds to show through the wax, why are you trying to make it more opaque by adding vybar? What does it look like with just 1260 and no vybar?
  2. I make my own blend now out of plain (no additives) soy, para and coconut oil. Simple, easy to obtain ingredients and best of all I know exactly what's in my wax and how much. Like talltayl, I suggest you add soy to your coco83 to make that 45 lbs you've got workable. I used to do a 50:50 blend of 415 : coco83 and it was...ok. Less soy wasn't enough IMO to control the flame,adequately, more soy led to the usual soy appearance stuff. The sooting/flame size was much reduced with a 50:50 ratio but sinkholes were common in certain containers, and you'll need to deal with those. Adhesion was.. pox-like. LOL Even at 50% soy I never used bigger than a cd8 in a 3" tumbler, except with one very heavy FO that took a CD10. CD 8, htp 83 and 93 were my go to wicks for a 3" dia. (I rarely trim wicks between test burns and always burn in a min 4hr increment.) That said, it's been years since I bought coco83 and the wax today may be very different than what you have (another reason I stopped using preblended mystery ingredient "coco" waxes) I hope that helps!
  3. My prayers have been answered
  4. @TallTaylmy coworker, a single Mom with 4 daughters in the house, recently confessed to me that she lit one of my candles in the evening in her downstairs guest bathroom when she had company. Then forgot all about it, went to bed and didn't realize it was still burning until the NEXT MORNING when she got home after driving her youngest to school. I'm sure this kind of scenario is not all that unusual. All I can say is thank god I learned how to wick candles from this forum and not from some youtuber.
  5. 4 hours is really just a standard (for me, minimum) test burn time, it's not a power burn. My power burns are 7+ hours, sometimes 9-12 hours. If you want to see some complete wick tests showing all the stages of melted wax from start to finish, this video is super helpful:
  6. Mulholland is a good one. The fragrance notes make me think of a canyon drive on a cool,damp Cali morning. Mulholland Hwy , Kanan Dume Rd, to the Pacific Coast Highway. Actually, any of those 3 would be good. Or just : Canyon
  7. that's what matches do for pennies and without adding to the piles of plastic/electronic waste sitting in landfills for centuries.
  8. This has to be some kind of parody video. It can't be serious, can it? Tell me it's a joke!
  9. Solving a problem that doesn't exist while creating a new and novel way for someone to set your house on fire from afar.
  10. It's quite hard and wicked so there's abt 3/4" + shell but I'm concerned the cracks may increase and cause seepage out and down the side. So far it's maintaining its structure but we'll see... I've never made a pillar but it wouldn't occur to me to even try it with soy. That said, I'm about to embark on a beeswax pillar adventure. Wish me luck
  11. Enjoying the hot throw and overall look but soy's gonna soy and some cracks are starting to pop up - along the edges and in the center after cooling. So far not impacting the burn but I'll be keeping a close eye on it
  12. the 4" tall jars create a nice little chimney effect down the burn - that's why I love them. The increased throw later in the burn is often just the the wind effect going on in there - -the heat + air flow pushing the scent up and out. So, the hotter MP isn't necessarily what's giving you better throw, it's the height of your container and the flame heat pushing the air + fragrance up.. As TT said, the hottest MP does not= the best throw. Too hot can kill the throw.
  13. I would think all the moisture in fresh fruit, and flowers too, would be problematic. Water and wax are not friends.
  14. @TallTaylwe overlapped but it took you about 2 lines to say what I did in my short essay/thesis. LOL well, good thing you're the admin of this site
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