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Clear Black

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Clear Black last won the day on June 10 2019

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    Westbrook, Maine

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  1. Looks great! What wax are you using that you need a double wick in that container might I ask?
  2. If you watch any of the candle reviewers on you tube, basically its them telling everyone that a FMP needs to happen ASAP. They give bad reviews if it doesnt "pool out" immediatly. There are many, many candle reviews with hundreds of thousands of watchers, who then go and tell their facebook groups and friends and so on...its REALLY unsafe to have a FMP so early on, but thats what these reviewers are telling the masses. I will continue to make a safe candle vs a quick burning one tyvm
  3. Thanks. I plan on testing some of the coco-apricot wax blwnds ive been reading about and will maybe get the sample pack to try
  4. Any updates on these wicks Moon? I need a shorter/fatter wick for my blend, currently every wick I try in my blend has a straight/tall flame and it starts to throw soot at the slightest flicker
  5. The wick is a zinc core, so the wick itself is standing upright its just the flame that is bent over itself. It does the same thing on the Kringle 2 wick with their wicks also which are not zinc core, more like Premiers. Ive tested the both candles in the middle of the house, and in a small bathroom with door closed and its the same either way, flame is just bent over and scorches the wax. Bummer
  6. Jar: 31 ounce Libbey cylinder. 5.5" tall by 4" wide. Double wicked. The wax is about half-way down burned now, and the flame instead of standing upright, is now just bent over. Its bent over so much that it is now touching the wax pool and causing discoloration from the burnt wax. I also have a 2 wick Kringle jar in their "status" style which is almost the same dimensions as listed above. I am also at the half-way point in the burn and the flames ALSO bend over in that jar. Everything else is working fine, throw is fantastic, but the candle just turns discolored and looks like turd. I am starting to think I have a drafty house? My house is old and most definitely has drafts, but could these drafts be the cause of this issue, or is this issue because my container is too tall and this is just the natural air flow after the mid-way point of any jar this tall? Any insights would be helpful and if anyone of you folks have also experienced this what did you do differently. Thanks.
  7. That depends really on what the changes are. To make any changes to the vector graphic itself you would need the original .ai file, and even then any design changes may be more than what I am capable of doing. I am teaching myself bit by bit Can you maybe link a .jpg image of the vector graphic and explain what changes you would like? And as far as being transparent, if there is access to the .ai file, all that needs to be done is to set the background as transparent Hope this helps, but probably not lol
  8. Can you share any more information Candy? Thats a bit vague tbh, but I am always working in Adobe Illustrator so I might be able to help. I am no graphic artist though, I just make my own labels instead of hiring someone
  9. I have heard this mentioned before...does this actually work? And yes, my first tester indeed had a cavity just below the surface which I poked at and then refilled with the leftover wax. How does the "flip" work with having my wick retainers in place? Is it ok by this point to remove the retainer and do the flip? Hmm The 31 oz Libbey cylinder is indeed a massive jar. I really love the 2-wick status type jar that Kringle offers, the one with the nice big label ya know. So Im using that as an inspiration for a tall multi-wick jar that is also straight sided and that 31 cylinder seems like a good fit. You can get the Libbey Cylinder jars at your local Michaels craft stores btw, which is awesome for just picking a few up at a time for testers
  10. Wow, such a thoughtful and intelligent response. Many thanks TT. For starters, I believe I went well over the FO% I should have at 8%. The next one I will for sure drop to at or below 6% and see how that is. At 8% the CT was amazing, stronger than most soy blends I have been using. As for reference, my "endgame" will be the 31 oz. Libbey Cylinder Jar, so it will indeed be taller than wider. I will either double wick, or if need be it can be triple wicked. Although once you start going 3 wicks in this jar you have to be pretty darn sure about not over wicking as it is a tallish jar. I purchased a 10lb bag of the Glass glow from Lonestar to blend with some J-223, which makes a great HT but on the weakish side for CT. While working with the palm I found it to be very easy to use in the granule form and started messing around with a straight palm in tiny testers. So far its a very different experience but one I would like to look into further. The 31 oz Libbey holds about 27 oz of finished product, so I want to test some more smaller ones before I start wasting product in those bigger jars. Thanks for all the tips and assurance that palm is worth looking into. Ive said this before and will say again, I am about at the point where I want to stop selling soy altogether and just forget it exists lol. Ive spent the better part of a year trying to move on from soy and the last of my stock is about sold, so time to maybe reformulate with something that does not vary as much batch to batch.
  11. Ive been making candles for many years now and have never considered palm candles to be a "contender" in the market compared to either Paraffin or Soy. So my question is, do palm container candles have the ability to compete, meaning...do they have a good enough scent throw and are they able to hold scent like Soy or Paraffin. I only ask this because I am confused as to how palm does with fragrance, whether it be hot or cold throw. Some distributors claim max fragrance load is 3%, another claims it is 9.5%. (This is in reference to IGI R2322A GLASS GLOW PALM CONTAINER WAX) So I am not sure who to trust as I have never made any palm candles until last night. I made one with 8% FO and the FO VERY slightly seeped out, but after resting overnight those seepage's were no longer there. I can always lower the FO % no problem so I am not worried there. Basically, what I am after is does Palm container candles "hold up" against their more popular counterparts in regards to hot/cold throw? Cheers all
  12. Not exactly sure what caused all this..but a 24hr cure on 464 is no where near long enough for the wax to be fully hardened. The golden rule of thumb for this type soy wax is a MINIMUM of 2 weeks for a cure, then start your testing. If you want to, make two testers and burn one at the 1-week mark, the other at the 2-week mark.
  13. Recently I have been toying with the idea of making a specific line of wick-less/flame-less candles. Im curious as to what is all of your opinions on using hot plate type warmers vs a wick and flame. I personally prefer to use my hot plate and avoid the flame all together, mostly to avoid any sooting from store bought candles and secondly as a safety precaution around my cats who like to jump up on the table and get curious. I guess what Id like to know is, do any of you folks sell wick-less versions of your jars or make a specific wick-less candle? Do you personally like using a hot plate? Would you purchase a wick-less candle in store knowing it isnt a traditional wick burning jar? Lastly, is there a market or is there buyers actually looking for a wick-less version of candles for either safety or health (cleaner burning) reasons? Any input would be great, I am on the fence about even starting to pursue this new line of thinking. Time will tell I guess 😛
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