TallTayl

Aww no worries Fragrance Friend. ☺️ C3 has become harder and harder to wick as additives increased to accept height per fragrance loads of ever more diluted retail fragrances. So frustrating. I would start with a CD 16 in that wax and container and go up/down a size from there. The most important part of a burn is the last half of the container. Wicking hot to get fast melt pool at the top will get you in trouble later. have you made an unscented candle with that wax and container to see how the wax itself burns without extra variables? Sometimes fragrance really interferes with a candle, it’s nice to know the base wax as a baseline to troubleshoot later. many people disagree with me about baseline testing a wax. I work with several fragrance labs, all of which use different diluents to to reach favorable price points for fragrances. “Uncut” fragrances run several hundred $ a kilo. Retail fragrances are diluted 25-75+% for end consumers depending on the product the fragrance is intended for, often aiming for $20 per lb targets to appeal to their market. Each diluent is different (IPM, DOA, Augeo, Dowanol, MPM, soy oil, mineral oil, etc) and interferes with the candle waxes and wicks differently. I’m aging myself when I say single, double and triple scented used to have meaning. I remember when 2-3% of a fragrance would fully scent a candle or soap to the point of them being way too strong. Now, at up to 75% fillers and cheaper aromachemicals in fragrances, it takes 5x as much fragrance oil to make a less scented candle. The more filler in a fragrance, the more issues you will have with your wax. Wax manufacturers have been adding increasingly more stabilizers to hold more filler, not necessarily more fragrance.

Would any of these work? https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/bags-wrap/boxes/soap-boxes.aspx?nbt=nb%3Aadwords%3Ag%3A20544758763%3A155134662164%3A673931192634&nb_adtype=&nb_kwd=&nb_ti=dsa-2199161109973&nb_mi=&nb_pc=&nb_pi=&nb_ppi=&nb_placement=&nb_li_ms=&nb_lp_ms=&nb_fii=&nb_ap=&nb_mt=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH53RZvYLdY7Cac_wl45VBtjcaB4kN8gnsthtijHPXjnqJ-54RnQFmTsaAo21EALw_wcB

It totally depends on the wax, fragrance and if there’s any sort of neck or variation of profile on the jar. for ceda cerica , for instance, filter rigid curl or cd or cdn can all work really well. for Midwest soy wax, cd work well in most fragrances. for coco83 blends where coco83 is 50% or more, cdn and cd work well. what are you using for wax, fragrance, fragrance load and jar?

You may be able to pull it out and feed a new wick into the clip without melting. Wooden wicks are so complex. The size is less important than the type of wood they are made from, thickness, how they are dried an and the treatment used to make them somewhat usable. In our testing it often comes down to the actual piece of wood since the grain from tree to tree varies so much. Even then in bulk packs some would burn ok, some would drown and others were tiki torches in the same candles. 🫤 best of luck finding a wick that performs well for you. I don’t envy the rework you have to do.

Soy wax can be really finicky. The sink holes are the worst as you don’t know you have them until either the candle flares and dies or you poke holes into it and feel them out. Some waxes (444 I’m looking at you) develop more sink hole cavities as you fill old cavities. with soy, I typically have the best luck by heating to 180-185, stirring gently along no the way as temp rises to ensure all of the wax components are fully melted. I add color at this point if using it. Then stir down to 140-160 depending on the blend, add fragrance. Slowly stirring with a wide rubber spatula helps keep the temp dropping steadily without creating little wax grain crystals that grow into those grains you discovered on your tops. I pour soy at the cloudy to slushy stage to prevent cavities as best I can. a second pour of reheated, reserved wax can often hide the original homeliness of the first poured surface. As little as 1/4” of a second pour can make a big difference. Most soy will get grainy over time no matter how pretty it looks at first. Not using dye helps camouflage the graininess for a while. Soy wax continues to morph and dry out over time. It’s a weird fuel. heat gun treatment to high stearic waxes like soy rarely solves the problem. As the heat gunned wax layer cools it has no choice but to grain.

I just learned this through the Mercari discussion board on Reddit. You can get a more detailed usps tracking history right on the Pitney Bowes site without being a PB customer, or having to buy the label through them. I mailed a priority package Feb 14 to an address 3 zones away. At worst, even if there had been a weather event (there was not) it should have arrived in 4 business days tops. After 3 WEEKS it had not moved in the Chattanooga satellite office. The normal tracking doesn’t show much detail, but the PB system helped keep tabs a little more clearly than the typical usps system after it was finally delivered yesterday, more than a month later. some good news is I filed a claim and was actually paid for the temporary loss. The customer eventually received the package and life goes on. sharing in case anyone else needs a wee bit more info when packages take their sweet time to arrive. as an aside, my postal people mentioned that usps is consolidating nationwide operations in preparation for closing thousands of local PO offices. These new centers are having loads of trouble getting into the swing of the volume, so anticipate extra headaches to come. I have been using UPS for anything that HAS to be somewhere on time, and/or is a relatively high value. It’s an extra stop on the package drop off runs, but gives peace of mind.

I was curious about what they used in the pretty little bottles when they came out. After reading the patents, ingredients and SDS documents, I wouldn’t recommend trying any of them in candles or melts. Those types of units use various volatile compounds to lift the aromatics into the air. Some contain hydrous compounds, polymers, etc. which would not play well with waxes. example:https://www.scjp.com/sites/default/files/2020-10/35-17092.pdf eta: my coffee cup is full, and it’s cold outside, so I found a comfy rabbit hole… Based on the CAS number, here’s the solvent they use in the one above: https://www.aladdinsci.com/d102242.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwte-vBhBFEiwAQSv_xakzneyIW7NWw97TLryWBaWNjRw73OBPSHwELo-L3Iecdiufxe-BwBoCOqEQAvD_BwE And the safety warnings for that solvent: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ghs/#_pict seems like it might be a great one for reed diffusers, but not candles.

I’ve been shell shocked at the prices too. Tuesday was the SCC Teamworks event in Chicago. I met with a number of suppliers, and saw my rep from The Perfumery. I need to arrange a Patchouli co-op for a group, and hope his insistence that we can get dark Indonesian at a fair price is true…. I’ll keep you posted.

Welcome Bob! we are here to help as best we can. Your waxes and wicks will differ from what we get in other countries but we’ll get there. Enjoy the journey.

I bought ammonium chloride when I started screen printing and made the fire paste. It screen prints like a dream.

I 100% agree with your list. I tried to source some of those items at my local hardware store without much success. I’m determined to make my ceramic old-fashioned lamp replicas work though. It would be awesome if they worked well with common oils.

Gorgeous. What is your fuel of choice?

Wax should be fine, just take care not to trip while carrying hot wax. It is akin to outdoor cooking and indoor plating to me.

Multiple wicks are a struggle. No old rules apply. The combustion balance is short available oxygen that low. You can try double wicking for something that narrow and deep. Reserve 3 wicks for wider and more shallow containers. I like to aim the curl of those types of wicks in opposite directions to help create a vortex of air current to draw more oxygen down to the flam zone, but it’s a crap shoot sometimes.

Could be several causes: -did you cure your candles before lighting? -seems a bit overwicked. Premiers are pretty efficient wicks. Smaller wicks often will allow better melt pool creation since the wick can’t sop up the fuel as fast. The carbon on the wick is indicating incomplete combustion likely from that imbalance alone.