Welcome! Hot, humid climates are the most difficult to work with wax. The rate of cooling has so much to do with how a candle sets up after pouring. Internal crystal formation can play a big role in how candles burn and throw. If the candles cool too slowly, the crystals tend to be larger and can allow fragrance to gravitate toward the lower part of the candle.
curing a soy candle before burning makes a huge difference in hot throw. If burning too soon the wick choice and burn will be misleading. crystal formation continues for weeks (and longer) in soy wax. 2 weeks is typical for a soy candle to show you how well it is wicked for HT.
the planet Mars tops is just how soy wax is. Most people committed to soy wax just learn to live with it.
if pouring for appearance in the jar (top and glass adhesion) don’t ignore what is inside, under the surface. Many burn issues stem from internal cavities that form during cool down that make wicks appear to not be sized correctly.
pure coconut “wax” does not exist at this point in time. coconut wax blends begin with hydrogenated coconut oil (melt point of 92*F) then are amended with other waxes and additives to make it work as the manufacturer wishes in different combinations. Adding 10% coconut oil to 464 will be problematic in hot, humid climates. Some marketed coconut waxes are primarily soy with coconut oil added. You really need to dig in and figure out the mystery of each wax. The manufacturers are not very transparent about the products being sold.
going the other direction with stearic acid will also make burn issues. Stearic acid narrows your wick choices as the has its own set of issues. Stearic acid is either animal source or palm source. Usually palm source. It is a fraction of palm oil. it can cause cracking with soy and is much harder to burn than most other waxes.
Palm waxes are derived from many different fractions to form specific crystal patterns in the final candle. Small % in soy combined with the right wicks chemically treated to withstand the nature of the palm acidity can work. It takes time to figure out the magic combination.
I suggest, instead either C1, which is a popular soy wax already combined with 20% of a palm wax, or C1 a soy wax with soy additives for your climate. I was never impressed with 464 and learned that marketing copy is a powerful thing. Both have similar Mars surface issues after burning since they are primarily soy. Both burn and throw better for me than 464 ever did, and withstood fluctuations in heat and humidity at outdoor events very well.