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TallTayl

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About TallTayl

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    candles soap b&b

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  1. If kept tightly sealed in a cool, dry environment clay should be ok as far as not “going bad”. Clay itself has come from the earth, but was cleaned in a lab for end use. I use different clays in pottery glazes and clay bodies that do mold if they get wet. In pottery we don’t care since the kiln kills everything organic during the different firings at up to 2,000*F for 12 hours, lol. For a face mask, I would be inclined to spread it on a tray in the oven and bake at 175+ *F for at least 30 minutes to kill any potential spores to be on the safe side. you can use clays on cold process soap with less fear since the lye should destroy any spores.
  2. So, so true. in my past corporate life I worked closely with the Human Factors department. Quickly learned that every accident is preventable and that usually the root cause of accidents is simple human error. it seems silly to me to risk my one and only set of eyes to a batch of soap. Even reading glasses are better than nothing.
  3. Thanks for the recommendation. I’m ok dropping it if I can’t find the original. The ones who love it KNOW when it’s not the original. I have tried 😩
  4. DO you mean it leaves a bit of a "shelf" after a burn? If so, this is usually how mine burn until around the 2/3-1/2 way point when everything starts to catch up.
  5. I thought I had an emergency stash of really old energy hidden away, but don't. A few customers and friends LOVE the old energy and are heartbroken to not have their favorite scent in soap & stuff any more. Anyone out there have the Energy Pre-reformulation from about 3+ years ago? The newer one is not even close to the original.
  6. Most real Candy corn (candy) smells like sweet vanilla to me. I’ve not smelled an FO that comes close. Worse the ones I’ve tried are hard to mix into my wax 🤬. A blend of a strong vanilla with a roasted marshmallow or cotton Candy often hits the mark.
  7. Welcome! My lovely grandmother used vaseline daily for all of her 93 years. Glowing youthful skin every day was her reward. I learned too late and have the crepe and wrinkles that need it now. It is the best at preventing TEWL in cold dry seasons. I trust pet jelly more than most home made “natural” concoctions. It is inert and will last on the shelf basically forever. What is not to love? curious to know what cream you replicated. (If you want to share the brand).
  8. 100% accurate. so many people don’t understand, or worse, disagree, until a cataclysmic preventable candle fire happens. test each candle combo from top to bottom before releasing new blends into the wild. Fragrances are different. And many fragrances are reformulated without any notice.
  9. I would not typically preserve that type of anhydrous formula. 🤗
  10. Welcome! Hot, humid climates are the most difficult to work with wax. The rate of cooling has so much to do with how a candle sets up after pouring. Internal crystal formation can play a big role in how candles burn and throw. If the candles cool too slowly, the crystals tend to be larger and can allow fragrance to gravitate toward the lower part of the candle. curing a soy candle before burning makes a huge difference in hot throw. If burning too soon the wick choice and burn will be misleading. crystal formation continues for weeks (and longer) in soy wax. 2 weeks is typical for a soy candle to show you how well it is wicked for HT. the planet Mars tops is just how soy wax is. Most people committed to soy wax just learn to live with it. if pouring for appearance in the jar (top and glass adhesion) don’t ignore what is inside, under the surface. Many burn issues stem from internal cavities that form during cool down that make wicks appear to not be sized correctly. pure coconut “wax” does not exist at this point in time. coconut wax blends begin with hydrogenated coconut oil (melt point of 92*F) then are amended with other waxes and additives to make it work as the manufacturer wishes in different combinations. Adding 10% coconut oil to 464 will be problematic in hot, humid climates. Some marketed coconut waxes are primarily soy with coconut oil added. You really need to dig in and figure out the mystery of each wax. The manufacturers are not very transparent about the products being sold. going the other direction with stearic acid will also make burn issues. Stearic acid narrows your wick choices as the has its own set of issues. Stearic acid is either animal source or palm source. Usually palm source. It is a fraction of palm oil. it can cause cracking with soy and is much harder to burn than most other waxes. Palm waxes are derived from many different fractions to form specific crystal patterns in the final candle. Small % in soy combined with the right wicks chemically treated to withstand the nature of the palm acidity can work. It takes time to figure out the magic combination. I suggest, instead either C1, which is a popular soy wax already combined with 20% of a palm wax, or C1 a soy wax with soy additives for your climate. I was never impressed with 464 and learned that marketing copy is a powerful thing. Both have similar Mars surface issues after burning since they are primarily soy. Both burn and throw better for me than 464 ever did, and withstood fluctuations in heat and humidity at outdoor events very well.
  11. Temp reading sort of depends on your particular thermometer and where in the pool the temp is taken. There’s a drastic difference with an IR thermometer fractions of an inch in any direction…
  12. For calculating, Will this thread help? As for temp, it does not seem to matter as much as how the wick moves air around and out of the container.
  13. Sounds like a fun, summery experiment. Let us know how it goes!
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