Jump to content

TallTayl

The Ones Who Keep The Lights On
  • Content Count

    7,154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    501

TallTayl last won the day on April 1

TallTayl had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6,850 Excellent

About TallTayl

  • Rank
    Moderator

Converted

  • Makes
    candles soap b&b

Recent Profile Visitors

6,982 profile views
  1. Definitely test your wax with as few variables as possible. We do t have access to your wax and wicks here but the process is the same regardless. Not every wick is compatible with every wax, so being able to narrow that down will save you a lot of time and $ in the long run.
  2. When that happens in my candles it is usually one of two things: 1: wrong wick material for the wax. Wooden wick makes several different types of wick from different woods and chemical treatments. Most retailers only offer one type in the minimum sizes. 2: the wick is too dried out. Woodwick vehemently argues against this, but what has usually solved the problem for me is priming the wicks in your hot wax. If I find a wick that does not draw my wax (which I have had successfully wicked before) I hold that wick under the wax while I hat wax. Usually bazillions of tiny bubbles come out of the wick, so the air is being replaced by wax. Then I stick that wick back into the candle and it starts to draw perfectly. wood wicks seem to be very sensitive to humidity changes. Some are too wet. Some are too dry. Some seem “pre-treated” tand won’t need priming. Those are often a different color or sheen.
  3. I don’t preserve - what I make is for personal use, and I do not sell it. It was too troublesome to make it consistent enough to trust for retail. Undiluted paste seems to last for years. quite a few people use a mix of NaOH and KOH to thicken without as many headaches. They seem to get super clear soap at the end. One day... one day...
  4. ever want to start something, then become paralyzed by the though of all the different ways to start? That sums up my big ideas for craftserver. if I were to start up the CraftServer learning series for realz, what would you want to learn about first? would you want videos? tell me what would make your day. Since most of us are on lockdown we might as well make it count.
  5. Liquid soap uses a number of different calculations and in the end you just Gotta keep tweaking until you get what you want. Some say potassium hydroxide is only 90% pure and use that 10% radio button on Soap calc. . Others assume it is 100% pure and then they have a 10% super fat. Cloudiness and gelling and thickening all depend on what you scent with. For instance lavender essential oil will gel it into a solid pretty quickly no matter how hard you dilute. Citruses will make it watery thin often even if you use a straight paste. There are no rules with liquid soap other than time time time and test test test.
  6. Soapcalc looks a little different, but not terribly.
  7. One of the best exercises i went through was making single oil liquid soap. You can mix to whatever proportions you want when diluting. You can dilute tiny batches at a time from the finished paste. I find that the paste will last for years if stored cool and airtight. I have never needed to use borax. Also keep liquid coconut soap around for cleaning as it’s one of the most convenient and economical things to have around.
  8. If heat is a big issue, you may want to consider blending with or switching to a more “sturdy” paraffin, such as 4786. vybar is like adding “glue” to your wax. While it may “possibly” help stabilize, it can very easily “lock” the scent so it is not easily thrown into the air. This becomes a circuitous effort to increase wick and scent load to overcome the normal characteristics of vybar, which then means more FO, then more wick, more vybar, etc. perhaps test your current 4627 during the worst weather in your area to see if it will even be a problem. Loads of companies use it as-is with apparently little to no reported trouble.
  9. The baseline is a great first step to know how your case of wax burns with no other variables. You can pop a quick tester together on each new lot and know you have a good base to build your scented and colored candles on later with confidence (because you have already isolated and proven that one main variable). If the next case burns waaaay differently at Least you know where to start tweaking. from there, yes, you will need to wick up/down depending on fragrance.
  10. I do similar, but heat set after twisting. Either seems to get to the same end. Yours might be much tidier since the coating won’t crack like it does when twisting cold. In some cases I have had extra success by dipping the cooled twisted wick into a high melt point wax (Palm usually) to help stiffen a bit more for use in soft waxes. Now to figure out for sure if the twisting is enough to overcome the HTP shortcomings... the flatness / coreless feature of the wick still results in it being pulled to lean off-center during burns just by its own weight in taller jars. the curling of the top is more than enough to slowly drag the wick over. Extra support needs to be from the bottom at the weakest point: where the tab ends and the wick is pinched to secure the tab. Usually the tabs are folded over to fit in the bags.
  11. So you made liquid soap paste! Woot! Dilute and use that gold.
  12. One quick test to rule out lye I use is to make a small batch of CP olive oil only soap. Assuming my olive oil is not adulterated (a whole other tale) it should get rock hard within a day if the lye is ok. if the only thing different than is you lye, that should be easy to isolate as the problem.
  13. Adding soy to coconut can be helpful to fix the shortcomings of each. A lot depends n your particular waxes, right down to the lot numbers of each. All retail waxes have different formulas for additives, etc., so there’s no blanket right answer for how much to add. If you have the resources, a good experiment is to create line blends to see how they work for you. A line blend is a set of tests that have different % such as one candle each of 90% coco with 10% soy (written as the percent of wax 1 followed by a colon and the percent of wax 2. 90:10), 80:20, 70:30, 60:40, 50:50, 40:60, 30:70, 20:80, 10:90. if adding other waxes or additives, it becomes a triaxial blend and much more involved. as for essential oils sources, give a read through the supplier lists by state to see if any appeal to you. Everyone has their own favored sources. The oils vary by season, location harvested, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...