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TallTayl last won the day on March 21

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About TallTayl

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    candles soap b&b

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  1. To me, that looks overwicked by several sizes. Don’t shoot for a full melt pool on the first couple of burns, especially on a wide jar like that. 6006 is 70% paraffin approximately. It burns easily. By the mid point that will only be hotter. In the last half you’re going to be in a good deal of trouble. the jar looks similar in dimension to a McCall’s candle, which does not ever get to a full melt pool, yet it burns down evenly.
  2. Hard to say. Depends on the fragrance, etc. and depth of the glass. The taller the jar, the likely lower wick size since it gets incredibly hot in the second half. Id be inclined to start with a 14, and work up/down as needed.
  3. It is because the cd12 cannot draw up to burn as much wax as the cd14, so the remaining wax just melts more around the flame. Does not make 12 a “better” choice at all. Hot throw is created by the wick being able to fully combust that melted fuel and “throw” it into the air. As the candle with the 12 in this case continues to burn the tendency is for it to keep developing a deeper and deeper melt pool which actually makes the melt pool cooler with less robust hot throw. Cd16 May have been a better choice.
  4. Sideways sells just as well in those. Kraft bags will work well. I’m trying my hardest to eliminate single use plastic
  5. Paraffin wax like 4630 or 4627 fit that description. Melt pour cool light. You get what you get from it
  6. Using grams the math is so much easier. And easier to check.
  7. Yes trap if you don’t see a decimal it is automatically whole number so the point is at the very end. Few of those escali are more accurate than whole grams. You got this
  8. @Trappeur weigh your wax like you just did hit the unit button til it shows the weight in grams. The number of grams will be about 705 or so grams. Whatever that number is just pretend the Decimal point is at the end. Move the fake decimal point to the left two places it’ll be about 7. That’s the number of grams you need of the fo for 1%
  9. The easiest measurement for stuff like this is grams. @jerry and I get to the same place so pretty sure my math is ok. For 1% : 24.9 oz is 705.9 grams. That scale has grams built in under “unit”. Move the decimal place to the left 2 places to calculate 1%. You get 7.06 grams of odor eliminator. Or .248 oz. for 2%, 7.06 g x 2 = 14.12 g, or .49 oz.
  10. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil*, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*, Borago Officinalis (Starflower) Seed Oil*, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil*, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citral. understanding formulating, that is one hella expensive little bottle of the highlighted ingredients above. Sunflower oil is about as inexpensive as can be. Capric/caprylic triglyceride (fractionated coconut oil) is also super inexpensive with a nice feel. The unbolded ingredients are in all likelihood in there at <1% Good for them. I hope people are thrilled with their product and keep them in business a good, long time.
  11. Gonna overshare a little. It’s humbling. And infuriating... because I am not making headway. I’ve wanted to learn how to electroform items in copper ever since I knew it was a thing. A decade of Wonder I spose I long enough to prove I’m really interested. This year I decided to dive in. Why not? I watched every you tube channel, read every blog. Studied. Bought formulas. Bought kit materials. Made the initial equipment and chemical investments thinking it is all spelled out for me. Look out world! Guess what? Everything, I mean everything has been a massive fail. Went back to square 1 several times to troubleshoot and I’m getting worse results instead of better. Would have been far cheaper to buy a few pieces of things I liked than following this rabbit hole. So, not only soap amd candles are expensive and challenging. We are not alone.
  12. I wish Old Glory were still around to be able to answer this. She passed a few years ago 😢, before the massive change to soy. 6006 is mostly paraffin (70% IIRC). A little more soy can help tame that super quick melt which in some cases/containers/vessels may indeed improve the HT.
  13. This is an interesting snippet for another reason... each of the individual ingredients in my production soap formula are absolutely loathed by other Soapers for one reason or another 🤷🏻‍♀️ Works for me, and I spose that is all that matters... What an oil brings to the whole may or may not be all that to someone else. Every story is just an anecdote. Believe what makes sense. As for sharing my formula, most all will absolutly hate how it works or comes out without knowing the process, including temps, timing, etc. You can read an ingredient label and guesstimate proportions based on order of ingredients, but that really does not mean much, does it? the same formula will turn out many different ways during the same soaping session just by fluctuations in temperatures. Experience leads how to roll with it to not waste ingredients.
  14. Here’s where I see the use of “wax” as appropriate... soy “wax” is simply hydrogenated soy bean oil. Companies refine and hydrogenate a base “wax” to different degrees for their final end product. Makes soy “wax” like midwest soy and 415 are kind of terrible without additives, but they are still insidered a “wax”. jojoba oil is technically considered a “wax” though it is a liquid that looks like any other oil on my shelf. Coconut oil 76 is an oil solid at 76*F or lower. Coconut 92 is partially hydrogenated to raise the melt point to 92*F or thereabouts. The food industry calls it an oil or a wax for whatever end purpose they have, but that does not mean it will perform like other hydrogenated oils. coconut oil 92 - I totally agree - is terrible alone as a modern container candle fuel. It’s not durable for the end product “we” think of in a “solid” wax container candle and would need to be described very differently to end customers to set expectations. Though when you think about it, olive oil and other liquids are candle fuels around the globe and have been for thousands of years. When adding coconut 92 to soy “wax” a lot of unpredictable things can happen. American Soy suggested adding 10% “high melt coconut” to improve the throw of their midwest soy wax product. Result: kind of a messy candle. That naked wax is not designed to hold that much oil so it leaked. I suppose I Could go down the rabbit hole of additives to stabilize, but “why”?
  15. @CandleRush please stick around. I enjoy reading your perspective. We all can share as much or little as we want - and we can do so kindly. A few people met through forums are closer to me than my own blood family. Those relationships are priceless. We talk every single day. People are real. Every little pearl posted teaches us a little. Those who are inclined to do the research and work for the sake of learning will pick up every little nugget along the way and turn it into something. Having had more “failures” than I care to count, I’m a heck of a lot smarter than I was even a year ago. I don’t share current formulas either - I will share things learned along the way. Nothing personal, often my current formula isn’t “all that” in the end. I gotta get through it to understand WHY first. It’s an artistic process. One reason not to share *all* that I witness every day is unscrupulous people who gather up recipes and sell them as “their own”. Peruse etsy. I was curious once and bought this amazing bubble bar recipe for the bargain price of $20. It was the exact same recipe I had from many years ago sold as their own sweat and tears. Whatevs, they took the time to make it pretty and save people some research. The Dish forum had Hoovers sucking up recipes they turned around and sold in books for a pretty penny. Turns out those recipes were waaaay out of date since we had all moved forward with the times. The reviews reflected that so justice in the end. You are right about the cake, different hands, different ingredient sources, different ingredient lots, different tools, etc. make for a very different end product. Heck, look at all the variances in C1 candles in other threads right now. We all open the cases of the same product and yet have vastly different candles in the end. We are all learning. That is why I keep at this. I love learning for the sake of learning. Share what you are comfortable sharing and no worries about things you don’t care to share. It’s all good. We can do so without coming across as defensive. we all probably picked up our current bag of tricks from someone we read on a forum somewhere. Peace. 🦄 and a unicorn. ❤️
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