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TallTayl

The Ones Who Keep The Lights On
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About TallTayl

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    candles soap b&b

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  1. If you want to simply raise a flash point of an oil, add another oil to it. Add coconut oil, for instance. Technically flash point goes up, but It won’t change the fugitive compounds in the oil...
  2. If you add a fragrance oil at too low of a temperature and it begins to seep out of your wax you’re gonna have a heck of a lot bigger problem than not enough hot throw. The most important thing is to make a safe candle, one that all of the oil is completely homogenously spread through the wax. The thing about flashpoint is adding a low flashpoint product (an EO or FO) to a high flashpoint product (wax) increases the flashpoint of the original oil as it becomes a totally different blend. Don’t confuse flashpoint with flashing off. The only thing you need to worry about with a lower flashpoint oil is to not have it near a flame where it can spontaneously combust upon reaching that flashpoint temperature. One of my best throwers has a flashpoint <120F. It is added at up to 200° Depending on the wax and it never loses a note of throw ever.
  3. Welcome to the wonderful world of soy. 444 used to be so easy, then something happened and it is a persnickety wax for many different reasons. i usually pick one jar/scent and exhaust all wick series before jumping ship to another fragrance. Early on I bought sample packs of every wick series available on the market. They all come in handy eventually. You May have to experiment to find the sweet spot for your lot of wax. RRD wicks, CSN, CDN, HTP, LX, etc. all may produce different results.
  4. Flash point does not matter in this case. Flash point will matter for shipping the bottles of fragrance/essential oil, but not when adding to wax.
  5. Poorly wicked candles are usually the cause of soot. I burn plain wax to form baselines and can end up with terribly blackened containers until the right wick is selected.
  6. Welcome to the club. Your membership card is on the mail 😂
  7. A few of our sellers offer tall necked wick tabs. Supposed to be a safety feature. It worked a little too well here 🧐
  8. My failures carry me all the way to the bank, so rock on 😁
  9. I have a gallon of it and I can’t bring myself to put it in Soap. I like my formula and will only change if market conditions force me to. 🤦🏻‍♀️🙈
  10. With soy the way that it crystallizes there is a lot to your theory. Personally I like a candle that smells the same on the first burn as it does on the last. I can’t do that by overwicking a candle. The toughest part of it all was just making the break from soy. That limited me for so many years. It was like a bad relationship I just couldn’t get myself out of.
  11. For short burns, the wall cling is less tall and dramatic since the melt pool isn’t drawing from as deep. It is kind of fascinating to watch.
  12. Well, IMO it should have cleaned up earlier. That’s seems like a lot of hang up.
  13. I can feel the eye rolls already, but am going to write this anyway. Maybe someone else will have an ah-ha moment. I don’t wick for full melt pool. There, I said it. I keep reading how the only way to get great throw is by wicking for a wide, deep melt pool. I sincerely disagree, especially since I have bought so many of these magical candles and have been terribly underwhelmed by the burn and performance. Those wicked for early melt pool always smell like burning wax, not pure beautiful fragrance. Seems people have been convinced to wick like the candle is a melt, then wonder why the second burn onward just don’t smell. here’s a pic of the melt pool from a candle I’ve been burning for 8+ hours a day for the past week+. It is a 3.5” wide jar that tapers slightly to the bottom with my own wax blend. The melt pool never exceeds 2” wide and maybe 1/8” deep. I never trim the wick - just light and walk away. The candle starts smelling within minutes of lighting. The rim of the jar is totally clean. Not a speck of soot. The scent (5%) fills the room and wafts to the next and down the hall pleasantly. the wall cleans up slowly and steadily releasing fresh fragrance with every drip. It does not drown the flame This candle will finish completely clean with no wax left over aside from the 1/8” or so as designed by the wick tab neck’s built in safety zone. I could leave it burning from top to bottom without ever worrying about a catastrophic failure. This leads me to the ah-ha, and how it created that above ah-ha candle. So, to solve a wicking issue for a client I had to really dig in. While most any old wick would generate admirable hot throw, I didn’t like how unclean they burned. Knowing I could do better (can’t we all?), I try to engineer candles to ideally not require wick trims, because, let’s face it not many people reliably trim wicks. I lean toward self-trimming wicks to keep things simple. There will be some hang up, but that is a feature, not a flaw. take HTP wicks, for instance. Look at the melt pool size for the largest in the series. not even the largest, hottest wick is designed to create a melt pool more than 2.5”. Yet, I know many manufacturers use HTP single wicked in containers much larger and have fantastic candles. When studying other wick charts you will see a trend. if you allow a candle to gently weep wax into the melt pool for the life of the candle you can really produce an above par product. Balancing the flame height, heat of the flame and consumption you can find that sweet spot where everything makes total sense. Here’s the rub. we’ve all been brainwashed into hard waxes, notably soy wax. Everyone seems to want a wax that holds massive amounts of fragrance and no wet spots. So the supply side of the market responded in kind. But now it is a bugger to wick. Out come giant wide ribbon wicks and thick wood wicks. And around and around we go. I took a big step back recently after buying a $3.99 candle from Aldi made in India. That wick was tiny, and did not burn beyond the diameter of a tea light before dying. I stuck an htp 93 in there and loved that candle more than any $100+ ever made. It burned the same from top to bottom over more than 100 hours. I was sad when it finally burned the last drops of that wax. another rub... not every container works with every wax. Often we pick a container we love, and shoe horn our wax into it hoping to make a go of it. Working the other way around is so much easier. “Play to the strengths” it is called in other circles. So began my quest for the qualities that mimicked that el-cheapo Aldi candle. it can be done. Start digging into patents and blazing a path away from the norm. You May surprise yourself with how many rules are totally bunk.
  14. Autocorrect changed my intent above. It should have read, “I have never used lab and co specifically.” anyway... do you suppose Anthropologie and other high end candle brands use what is available to us in the typical retail fragrance market? (Hint... nooooo, lol.) sure, we can make a fine candle for our market space with what we have at hand once we learn our materials. Moving up and to the next level takes a bit more. retailers have flooded the market with replicas to try to satiate our appetite for better blends. I can’t tell you how much I have spent trying out every fragrance place that markets the world’s best (whatever it is) only to be underwhelmed. 😫
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