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TallTayl

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TallTayl last won the day on May 18

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About TallTayl

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    candles soap b&b

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  1. As long as possible. For anything with soy a week or two is very different from a day.
  2. Look for my post about a Wickectomy. It will let you do this test with a tabbed wick very easily. Basically I use an Apple corer to make a hole enough for the tab to fit in then thread the wick through it. edited to add, 24 hours old is probably not enough time to get a good reading.
  3. Have you ever noticed that most of the time scary articles are written by someone trying to sell us something? Anyway, thought I’d share this gem. bought it at Aldi (a chain grocery store) a few months ago for about $6. Lit it, and it was severely under wicked. The melt pool was smaller than a tea light and it was nearly self extinguishing within an hour. Stuck an HTP 83 in it. I power burn so just lit and let go. Never trimmed it. The melt pool was roughly the size of a votive through the entire first 2/3 of the large candle.. resisted the urge to wick up and am really glad I did. It smells so strong and clean every burn. Never any soot. Scent wafts into several rooms easily. The thick hang up wept into the melt pool, meaning every single burn was as pure and strongly scented as the last. I’m in the last inch or so now, and the sides are cleaning up very well. I suspect I’ll get at least 30 - 40 more hours with it. I wish like heck I knew what wax this is. It was made in India, so no clue what it could possibly be. Paraffin of some variety. It was hard enough to pop out of the glass when I bought it and re-wicked. Not squishy like 4627 or 4630. Not translucent and hard (or dirty) like 4786. Just a perfect candle wax in every way. I would switch in a hot second if I knew what it was.
  4. Excellent that you’re hitting your stride testing. one thing I noticed is that the half way mark testing did not work well for any of my waxes 😢. I thought it was the magic bullet to hit that magical point of no return. The problem I found was that the top half definitely impacts wicking of the second half. Wicking fo the bottom left me underwicked many times as it does not account for the hang up in the top. Test these, then compare another set with a full pour. On 8 oz tins I generally get 6-6.1 oz of soy wax blends, plus 8% fragrance (.45 oz) in each to the line which is roughly 1/2” from the rim. 6.5 oz net weight).
  5. A heavy zip loc bag used like a piping bag works for me. Trim a corner of the bag to pipe out of.
  6. ECO10 is a pretty big wick for many soy waxes. You may just need to dial down the ECO a few sizes.
  7. Yeah, that huge "mouth" (good description @pughaus) is a cooling issue. The sides want t stick to the glass while the insides cool much more slowly and shrink. As for throw, that is the art part of chandling. ECO may be too "hot" or too "cool" in the spectrum. I'd give CD a try. Or CDN.
  8. 😆 perform wickectomy to replace with right size/type then retest with a new candle when I think I have a winner.
  9. Dancing if not throwing soot seems totally acceptable to me. Commercial candles dance too...
  10. @Forrest and @bfroberts sing along with me... B.I.N.G.O. BINGO was his name-o.
  11. Part of the HT is your home, too. If the air currents while burning are not toward where you are sitting then you won’t smell them. Was a bit surprised yesterday to smell a lilac candle burning in the guest room ... outside... likewise very humid days tend tend to make the air in my house sink down stairwells and vents to the basement. Was burning Apple candles in the kitchen wondering why I couldn’t smell any. went to pick up laundry from the basement and was overwhelmed with gorgeous apple scent. 🤷🏻‍♀️ keep in mind many homes have very efficient heating and cooling systems that filter most everything out of the air. Hard to smell your beautiful candles when the air filter traps 99% of it 🤗
  12. From what I’ve seen, the polymorphic soy crystals develop and strengthen bonds over time. Plus, organic waxes continue to evaporate latent moisture remaining from the manufacturing process. Both of these things amount to a hotter, dryer flame which can more efficiently burn fuel and throw it into the air. i’ve had great HT on a 2 day old soy candle that completely flops a couple of weeks / months out. The initial wick was great for a soft-ish damp-ish wax, so by the time the crystallization process finished the wick was not nearly hot enough. And of course vice versa. Soy (and other natural waxes) do contain a range of moisture. Some cases you open and they feel noticeably wet, while others are crispy and dry. This throws off wicking really badly. I’m sitting here frustrated that it happened again, with C1 this time. My new cases are initially several sizes off from my last lot. 😖🙈 I will need to age this wax a few months to see if that changes (which I suspect it will). many of these irritating things can be tamed to a degree with paraffin. Paraffin waxes have. More stable crystal structure, are inert and don’t tend to change much, if at all, over time.
  13. Jelly jars are tough because they taper slightly at the bottom. 9 oz straight sided, IMO are much easier.
  14. We are really glad to have you! Here’s the link o the wax and wick tests completed so far. https://www.craftserver.com/forum/68-wax-and-wick-tests/ my dream is to complete at least the top 10 most popular retail waxes in pans, followed up with 3-5 popular containers to show how they all differ. Can also extend to 1-2 common fragrance types to show how the wick requirements change. this is a huge project, but one I’m happy to tackle if people are interested enough. Thank goodness I love candles and live for a good challenge.
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