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TallTayl

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About TallTayl

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    candles soap b&b

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  1. That’s a question for Igi. Their contact info is on the document I think.
  2. TallTayl

    Replacement for TCS Dried Apple Wreath

    Maybe contact lebermuth to see if they have something or will dupe it.
  3. The IGI product information sheet states 3% http://www.wicksandwax.com/index_htm_files/2322.pdf
  4. Why I bought it: a forum member asked if anyone had, lol. I’d never heard of it, so when I was at Target I picked it up. its a soy based wax with cottonseed oil. Cute little juice glass jar. 4.9 oz, they state 25 hour burn time. Purchased at target for about $7 and change not on sale. I like and dislike the labels. The paper band has really small font, so it takes a while to find anything, like the scent. The labels are pretty simple, and won’t cover the flame once the wax is consumed below the wrap. First impression: the wick is off center. Smells nice enough. Not knock you over strong, but pleasant. First burn: Just lit. Pretty small flame that weakened over the three hours I burned it. Clean flame, no noticeable soot puffs as it got going. No shortage of carbon deposit. The mushrooming shrank the flames considerably. After the three hour burn the melt pool pool was steady at about 1/2”. Could net smell any HT in my dining room.
  5. TallTayl

    Retail Candle Reviews

    Let’s give this a try. The goal is to share your experiences with candles purchased through typical retail outlets. What moved you to buy this candle? wha was the retail price? Wax type? what do you love about it? first impressions of burn? overall thought? please, let’s keep this constructive so we can all learn.
  6. Like many of you, I have been searching for the holy grail of waxes. I have blended this and that, researched, purchased and tested every manner of additive, emulsifier, and magic bean possible. When i I look back at the melting instructions and photo logs of candles made, something hit me. All additives have their own set of properties, including melting/cooling point and rates of cooling. I’ve witnessed some additives congealing right in a burning candle’s melt pool! The cauliflower tops are only on “some” soy wax blends, flaky tops are on others. Some have baby butt smooth tops no matter what. Manufacturers are coy with their ingredients, with naked soy wax presumably being the base. It’s anyones guess what emulsifiers and such are added, but we all have some ideas. Just from what what I have experienced making hundreds of test candles with various waxes it’s easy to discover that additives are sensitive to melt temps and mixing. As I watch the melted wax cool some portions of waxes cool quicker than others, making the uneven tops, grains and cavities. This makes temps the manufacturers provide pretty important, along with STIRRING AS IT COOLS. No need to beat it, just keep it in motion cooling QUICKLY so everything is evenly distributed. For soaping oils that are prone to settling out, the term i learned is “votated”. so, maybe the manufacturers’temp instructions are more than just “binding” fragrance, but evenly distributing ALL of the additives. Add an FO too cool and it might not be dispersed well causing what some manufacturers call “drift” as the emulsifying additives just can’t do their job well unless within the right range of temp.. Hoping @Kerven to chimes in. What do YOU Think?
  7. Incidentally, I’m going to chime in for @moonshine for a sec. hoping she chimes in here. she and I make the same test candles a couple of states apart and compare notes. We make them several times a week comparing burn tests too. The differences can be astonishing. Most recently we made candles using the same wax, same jars, same fo load, same bottle of fragrance, everything and her candle curdled while mine came out smooth as a baby’s bum. The differences? The stirring tool, fo add temps and pouring temps. In hers the fragrance looks exactly like that picture above. The FO is between those layers of wax. I actually added my FO much lower and poured at the same temp (105). In all reality mine should have come out like that, but no, it was perfectly fine. So today I sent her a set of the same spatulas I use since this is not the first time our candles look so drastically different at the end. As much as i I balked at taking temps early on (and for years after) I confess that only when I began to pay attention, make them the exact same way every time did I finally make a halfway decent, repeatable candle.
  8. How well are you mixing? I use C3 and heat to 185, add fo and color. Stir for a good 2 minutes it’s a wide silicone spatula. Cool to 195 and pour into warm glass jars. Perfectly smooth candles with no cavities. Any higher of a pour temp will leave you with nasty cavities. Uneven mixing can curdle.
  9. Polysobates are used in proportion to the amount of oil being solubilized. Off the top of my head, poly 20 is used by 25% to equal the amount of essential oil depending on the oil. For air sprays you really benefit from something that can help it evaporate up into the air, like an alcohol, cyclomethicone, etc.
  10. after 4 hours the tin was more liquid than I prefer. Will try a CW30 to see if it's just too small to consume that fuel. Throw was nothing to write home about, so maybe the one size up wil make a difference. some carbon on this wick after the burn which is not surprising given the melt pool
  11. TallTayl

    Anyone tried Meyers?

    I bought several different candles along with the Meyers on Sunday.whats a little cash for science? They all, so far, make me feel so much more confident about my own lately. Even my worst are better than the best I have purchased, so yay us! Would there be any benefit to starting a sub forum of retail candle reviews?
  12. TallTayl

    Rusty/Organge colored Tins

    One thing not mentioned: what type of wax? in blends of varying amounts of soy, coconut, palm and beeswax I have not had any color changes to tins.
  13. When I first started playing with cottonwood they all got out of control early with my coconut wax. As promised I ordered the smallest size to test from northstar. This is the CW20 on the left and eco6 on the right in coconut blended with soy wax compared to the same wax at the same point in an albeit different container. The conditions are close enough to compare. Second burn. Just lit. The flame height remain pretty similar between the two different wicks throughout the burns. Both reduce in height as the solid wax fuel begins to melt and feed the flames. Both draw down the wax in the melt pool versus melting all the way across, which I personally like. The wick uses the fuel and gets it into the air quickly and efficiently. The wax hang up on the sides catches up throughout the burn ensuring fresh wax/fo throughout the entire life of the candle, and a nice clean burn. Here is the cw20 after a two hour burn last night. It developed the characteristic split fiber look and a small carbon ball. The melt pool is very similar to the eco 6 (not pictured) which had no carbon development at this stage. Will continue to burn this one as usual to see if I need to wick up to a cw30 eventually.
  14. TallTayl

    Masterbatch

    Your lye solution is based on a constant proportion of lye to water, so if you calculate how much lye is needed for any given recipe, that water amount comes along with it. Like JC mentioned above you can adjust the amount of water to whatever strength you please as you go. I standardized my formulas which makes this all incredibly easy. Though if I need to make something special, the math is pretty easy.
  15. I had a hard time with them in coconut and soy on my first try. They tend to fray and develop pretty giant flames if not carefully trimmed. I ordered the smallest size again and will give it another go, since I really want a wood like wick that is more predictable.
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