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TallTayl

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About TallTayl

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  1. Was just coming here with the same link. Soymax is more a “brand” than a specific blend. CS and American Soy Organics are both offering the M124. Pricing is a bit different.
  2. I wonder if the gelling agent in the lower melt point version helps keep it from being too sloppy. I’m back in the saddle testing new ideas, and some gels hold better than others.
  3. The only dispute I have is about beeswax holding scent. It can, and does, hold scent very well. My summer shop specialized in scented beeswax candles. It can hold as much as you want. Beeswax is used to make salve type products, with as little as 3% beeswax to any oil holding it into a stable suspension. I typically use 6-10% fragrance or essential oil in beeswax pillars and scented tapers. The scent holds for years. Much comes down to the beeswax you start with, and the fragrance quality. Quality of both varies widely. I have used some beeswax that is so dark from to be practically unusable. And othe light from capping that was a dream. as for color, I use fully refined white beeswax and obtain brilliant jewel colors with liquid dye and UV inhibitor. if you can’t get a decent white, then earth tones with a base of yellow, such as green hues, are lovely. fully refined white beeswax can be accomplished from many different manufacturing methods. Some I have bought is difficult to work with and does not burn as well. Others, like from strahl&pittsch in the US are a dream. That wax is practically perfect in every way.
  4. sort of... the flash point is the temp the liquid needs to reach to release vapor that will ignite if exposed to heat or a flame. Adding something like soybean oil to the bottle of 68*F fragrance raises its flash point, as does adding FO to the melted wax. At the end of the day, your overall thought is correct - The flash point of the FO and the Wax in the melting pot is much higher than the original FP of the FO alone in its bottle. Most candle waxes I looked at have a flash point near 400*F. The overall flash point of the FO plus wax is closer to 400 when blended, so FP has no bearing on the candle making discussion at that point. One FO, Grandmas Swingin Eggnog from one supplier I remember once upon a time had a FP of <100. Basically room temp, lol. Anyone smoking or burning a candle near the open bottle could have met a surprise. But it performs fine in candles since the wax raised the overall blend FP. This is why the flash point discussions on FB groups and some suppliers make no sense from a manufacturing perspective. Not one giant candle operation is going to reduce their wax to a low FP fragrance before blending since the waxes would be solidifying in many cases. Beeswax, for instance, solidifies at about 145*F. I use very low FP oils (lemon verbena FP approx 120*F) and those candles don't lose one bit of potency. I found a square pillar candle in my hub's truck made nearly 10 years ago that was as potent as the day it was made. Ditto Palm wax (and most coconut blends) that must be melted to >200, add FO and pour.
  5. Looks like I can get to those fields from the back-end admin panel. If you like, PM what you would like changed or deleted 🤗
  6. It could be, just play with your pour temp.
  7. I had similar thing happen when I poured midwest soy too hot.
  8. Hmmm is what you need to change not part of the normal profile edit? I hit the three lines top right corner, then Account, then Profile there’s an edit feature button near your name. if you don’t find what you need changed I can try from the mighty back door.
  9. Don't believer all you read on the internet... Some of the "expert" advice is downright dangerous. Here's a nice discussion about FP.
  10. 444 used to be great. Since GB moved production to Central American in 2016 it has been hit or miss - mostly miss. I had one case that was so wet from faulty hydrogen atoms injecting water into the wax it practically dripped. When it dried out it was brittle and barely burned at all. Total waste. Adding vybar will not solve throw issues in wax like 444. Vybar is like glue, and is already in the wax. More glue does not help existing glue release fragrance.
  11. How long did you let it cure for? And what wicks are you trying?
  12. Most modern Container waxes are engineered to stick to the container. Many candle makers dislike “wet spots”, so the answer was to make the wax less prone to shrinkage, and make it stick like glue to the glass. you can modify the container waxes with a little pillar wax to make it more willing to shrink slightly, and hold together well in molded melts. so happy you were able to test and figure out your product 🤗
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