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Forrest

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Forrest last won the day on September 26

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About Forrest

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  1. I have my wick list and my 8oz tin wicks for all the FOs that I use, moving up a size in paraffin would be quick and easy.
  2. Before I started using 4630 regularly I looked at using 4627, but the cost and availability was prohibitive. I’m out of 4630 and I saw that CS has 4627 at a reasonable price. I think I would like it, but I have the wicking for 4630 down. So, for anyone who has used both how would you compare the wicking.
  3. Well it took something big like this, but I got sucked back in to the Fragrance forum, nine months of therapy out the window. This is exciting, what wax will you be testing in?
  4. I see high end candles with adhesion issues all the time
  5. When testing the first thing I look for is how long it takes to get a full melt pool, generally speaking I want to be close to a FMP on the at the end of the second three hour burn. If I get a FMP before then I’ll try a smaller wick. The rule of thumb I go by is I try to use the smallest wick that will eventually melt all the wax. If a wick is too big you tend to get more mushrooming, smoking, and soot and a properly wicked candle. If a candle is over wicked you tend to have a bigger flame. For me wicking is the hardest thing about candle making. I use 5 different types of wicks. If you are unsure of your wicking a good thing to do is do a test burn and post pictures on this board. The experts will give you advice.
  6. You may me getting lucky. I wicked 8oz tins with 19 different FO at 7% and there was a large variation in wick sizes.
  7. I suspect everything is FO specific, but I’m very suspicious. I’m pretty sure a properly wicked 7% candle will always have better HT that a poorly wicked 9% one. There is also the possibility that I incorrectly recorded the wick size; I’ll double check that this weekend. What I also know is that, because the wicks are different, you can’t be certain that increasing the FO% is the reason the HT is better, assuming it is. All in all I’ve given up on certainty and taken to wandering around the house mumbling to myself. What I plan to do is make eight 7% candles with the wicks I’ve already picked and two at 9% with no wick. After three months cure time I’ll wick the 9% candles and do a subjective assessment of the difference. I’ll do that for four or five FOs and see if there is a pattern. If there is I’ll adjust my level of uncertainty accordingly. Sigh, I did so want candle making to be an exact science.
  8. I suspect you are right, but sometimes more HT is a good thing, and other times it isn’t. But testing is just my nature and my recent project hasn’t allowed me much opportunity to test things. It is time for me to make all my spring and summer candles and this allows me to slip a little testing in. I have a couple of FOs that I would like to get a bit more HT out of and this may be the answer. I’ve stopped buying new FO so I’ve got to make the ones I’m using work.
  9. Like many people when I first started I used 10% FO because that’s what it said my wax could hold. That led to a lot of problems with smoking and mushrooming. Dropping down to 7% solved many of those problems. A while back I did wick testing for 18 FOs in 8oz tins with 6006 at 7% and selected wicks that I thought would be good after several months curing. One FO that gave me problems was Flaming’s Falling Leaves, but I settled on a WI740. However when I made the candles I miscalculated the FO and ended up with something around 9%. After four months curing my WI740 didn’t work at 9%. I tried several wicks I ended up with a 44 zinc core, which is seven wicks higher on my wick list. The thing is that when I tested this I had no smoking or mushrooming problems. This got me to wondering if a long cure time would allow a higher FO percentage without wicking issues, and would the higher FO percentage lead to better HT in well cured wax. So the in my next batch of candles I’m going put this to the test by making a few unwicked candles at 9%, and the rest at7%. Once they have a few months to cure I’ll test them and see what the difference is. I realize this has no meaning for someone looking to sell candles, but for amateurs like myself it could be important. One reason I think there may be something here is that one of my first soy candles that cured for a year burned perfectly and had the strongest HT of any candle I have ever seen. Since that experience I have had a theory that soy candles will have better HT than paraffin candles if they are cured long enough. Given the problems with soy I’m not sure I want to test that theory.
  10. The thing is I think I found out, and it was a pretty big jump in wick size. I really should learn to write things down, and double check all my calculations.
  11. Let’s say I accidentally added too much FO and ended up at 9% instead 0f the 7% my test candles had. How big a difference would that make in my wicking?
  12. No, you can tell a big difference in the HT with longer cure times, and but you also need a bigger wick. The one I just tested was overwicked after two weeks cure, but now it needs at least one size bigger, maybe two. I've turned off the AC, but it is about the same temp in my house as when I tested them the first time.
  13. Yes it does. It is only 30% soy so you wouldn't expect it to need soy like cure times, but it does.
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