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Forrest last won the day on September 26

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About Forrest

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  1. The thing is I think I found out, and it was a pretty big jump in wick size. I really should learn to write things down, and double check all my calculations.
  2. Let’s say I accidentally added too much FO and ended up at 9% instead 0f the 7% my test candles had. How big a difference would that make in my wicking?
  3. No, you can tell a big difference in the HT with longer cure times, and but you also need a bigger wick. The one I just tested was overwicked after two weeks cure, but now it needs at least one size bigger, maybe two. I've turned off the AC, but it is about the same temp in my house as when I tested them the first time.
  4. Yes it does. It is only 30% soy so you wouldn't expect it to need soy like cure times, but it does.
  5. I usually use my little heat gun after a wickectomy to get a smooth surface, if I had several candles I’d break out the big heat gun. But generally speaking a perfect surface is not required on free candles.
  6. I’ve started a project to make 6006 candles and give them long cure times. Back in June I make my fall/Christmas candles and I made enough of each to supply my family. This weekend I burned two of them. The first was perfectly wicked. The second may be a little under wicked, but I’ll need another burn or two to be sure. I wicked these candles based on them being over wicked at two weeks. If my best guess was wrong I’ll have to do w wickectomy and replace all the wicks. That got me to thinking, why not cure the candles without wicks? Then after four months I could wickectomy my best guess wick and do a proper wick test on them. When I got the wicking right I could add wicks to all of them. While that is potentially more work I could do it while I am watching TV, so it wouldn’t take up any useful time. I suspect people might think me a bit odd if they knew I had bags full of unwicked candles under the bed, but I’m OK with that. BTW the HT on the first two candles I tested was excellent.
  7. Beware the sample size FOs, they are highly addictive
  8. If I might make a recommendation based on painful experience, make candles with your 444 and put them away for several months. I made my Fall/Christmas candles using 6006 back in early June. I made my first candles with 464 and they had almost no HT, I eventually gave up and went to 6006, about a year later I found one of those first candles and it had the best HT of any candle I have ever burned. I would not use soy for a business because of the product is not consistent and you either have to buy large quantities or you may end up rewicking everything. Soy blends seem to be more stable, but there have been some minor issues with 6006. Good luck with the business!
  9. There is a lot about candles that doesn't make sense, but if five different people on this board are using that same container with the same wax and FO they are probably using five different wicks, and none of them are going to work for you. You could use the wick list to find the nearest equivalent to the HTP or LX wick.
  10. I have that problem with new tins sometimes. You don't lose as much scent as you would think, a small hole wouldn't be a problem.
  11. That is a good question.The experts on the board will tell you that certain fragrance categories tend to need to be wicked up, or down. I might be able to test this as I have 19 FOs that I have wicked for 6006. I would just need to test the density and compare it to the wicking. If they correlate it would make initial wicking much easier. I may try that when I get the time.
  12. As a fellow engineer I’ll offer some advice. The first thing is your wax and FOs are all blended hydrocarbons, we are dealing with organic chemistry; so if, like me, you are not an expert in organic chemistry don’t try to understand it. Pick a wax and container and stick with it until you have that down pat. I would recommend you start with 4630 because any wax with soy requires curing. I find my HT is best with 4630 if I give it a week, but some FOs need a month or more in my soy blend. Now is the time to get your process down. If you start experimenting and your process isn’t fixed you can’t trust the results. I am a big proponent of blending. I read once that you only needed to stir the wax a few seconds and I ended up with a batch of candles with no HT. If you search this forum for Wick List you’ll find a thread with my wick list in it, it isn’t perfect, but it is a very useful tool. If you haven’t learned how to do a wickectomy do so. I find that wick size is more important than wick type; you will get a lot of different opinions on which type of wick works best in any given wax. Also I should warn you that your testing will sometimes yield anomalous results, if it looks wrong it probably is, and it probably wasn’t anything you did.
  13. That shouldn't be a problem. Remelting soy wax means that you start from scratch on the cure time, so if you had already let the wax cure for two weeks it reverts back to its original state and you need to give it time to cure again.
  14. The oxidation I can understand, I will definitely watch that with my 6006, I disconnect the power from the Presto Pot when I pour the wax into my pour pot so it should never stay hot for an extended period. I pour from my presto pot into a pour pot, and then into a second pour pot to weigh the wax. so I'm cooling a bit. I may set my hot plate up as a double boiler to get the was temp back up before adding my FO.
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