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  1. Hello! I am new to candle making and looking to confirm some information I've found online. I started looking into this because I recently bought an oil warmer and a wax warmer that are powered by tea light candles. This got me wondering if there are different "types" of tea light candles that would be optimal. The distance from the candle to the wax/oil dish is set so all I can control is how hot the candle is in terms of how fast the wax melts / oil heats As I understand it, there are 5 components to candle making in regards to heat. 1) Wick Size: Basically the biggest factor in candle heat. I've heard some varied information about how hot or quick different wick materials burn, but at the end of the day fire is fire. Bigger Wick = Bigger Flame = Hotter and Faster Burn. Ofcourse, adding multiple wicks will also add more heat. 2) Wax Type: Harder waxes and higher grade waxes burn hotter. 3) Candle “Additives”: Additives such as dye and fragrances (depending on what you use to add scent) have more to do with how "clean" the candles burn (a.k.a. how much soot they produce), but the entire candle formula/blend can affect the temperature and burn speed of the candle. For example, oil burns hotter than water so a candle/wax blend with a lower water content / higher oil content will burn hotter (also certain oils burn hotter than others). 4) The Container The Candle Is In: The container won't affect the heat of the candle, but it is super important to consider the size and the material of the container you’re using for your candle relative to flame size and heat. Plastic containers can work, but I've heard many people talk about them melting and/or catching fire. Thicker and more heat resistant containers are typically more expensive, but may be worth it for the increased safety when working with bigger/hotter flames. 5) What you're using the candle for / how long you want it to burn: I'd prefer a slower burn for any candle because they are longer lasting, but I might prioritize a brighter flame for an outdoor candle or more heat for a wax/oil warmer candle (but not enough heat to cause cracking/damage). Either way, Hotter Burn = Shorter Lasting Candle, so you must balance your priorities. I hope this info is helpful! (if it's all correct lol) P.S. If anyone has any specific recommendations or experiences regarding different waxes, wick materials/sizes, fragrance types, dyes, container materials, etc. or any advice in general I'd really appreciate it. Right now I'm just looking to make candles for my self and maybe some gifts, I expect I'll go through a lot of trial and error but any mistakes I could avoid or tips to improve my candles would be great!
  2. New Ultra-Core Wicks are made in the USA and are a 100% natural option for your container candles. The fibers used to construct Ultra-Core Wicks provide an incredible burn in all of the waxes! We tested soy, paraffin, coconut, palm, beeswax, candle gel and many hybrid blends and the Ultra-Cores did not fail! We kept testing different variations because we couldn’t believe it that finally, one wick burns everything! The Ultra-Core unique knitted patented design allows the wax to flow through the fibers easier to fuel your flame and improve your melt pool resulting in a much better burning candle. Improved meltpools mean less tunneling and your hot fragrance throw will be stronger too. Ultra-core wicks burn with a shorter, hotter flame which means little or no soot and smaller mushrooms. The core in the middle keeps your wick straight, which not only makes candle production much easier, the Ultra-core will not curl, sag or bend as the candle burns. The sizing system of Ultra-Core wicks is easy to understand too. The wick number (1.45, 1.651, 1.792, 2.0, etc.) represents the melt pool diameter after 2 hours of burning in a 140-degree paraffin wax. This size is a starting point for your wick selection and adjustments may need to be made depending on the wax used, fragrance, color, additives etc. Why we LOVE Ultra-Core Wicks: -Made in the USA -Burns in all waxes - no need for multiple type wicks for each wax -Improved melt pools = stronger hot fragrance throw -Little or no soot -Wicks stay straight in the jar - no wick sag! -Shorter flames are safer in containers -No tunneling - candles burn to the edge of the container -No curl & smaller mushrooms -Great for Multi-wick candles -Sizing is easier to understand ALWAYS TEST BURN YOUR CANDLES but here are some recommendations based on our testing. -Trim your wicks to ¼ inch or less. -Palm wax and low melt point paraffins burn very easy - size down accordingly -Size up for beeswax candles.
  3. Hello! I really hope someone can help me on here. We just switched to a larger 16ox jar (fr Glassnow) but I can not wick it properly. I need a wick that can be tripled and not flicker like crazy! I do not like CD wicks. ECO has been doing alright but the flame is still everywhere. IS THOS JUST BECAUSE IM USING 3? LOTS OF HEAT, LESS OXOGEN?? Who has a favorite, hot 🔥 burning wick that doesn’t flicker??🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻!!! thank you in advance for any input
  4. ever wondered what your bag of wicks looks like without the wax prime! Atkins and Pearce posted nice quality, close up pics of their wick series. It is so helpful to see close ups and figure out how and why some work better than others with given waxes. https://www.atkinsandpearce.com/product-category/candlewick/
  5. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  6. Hi everyone! It's an honor to be part of such a positive community. I've come to a dead end in my own research on this topic, but I swear I've tried everything. There's tremendous variety in wick technology: CD, ECO, CSN, LX, HTP, Wooden Wicks... Is there a good resource for truly diving deep and learning about all these technologies? What do all these letters mean? I've read the summaries on Candlescience and a few of the other distributors, but I'm looking for a bit more of a tech dive on how these wicks are put together and the major differences between them all. Thanks in advance
  7. hi I am new to candle making! Hoping I could get some proper insight! I have made a few scented candles already and they have come out pretty good, just some issues. I've tried multiple waxes, coconut, soy, parasoy, veggysoy and I've tried multiple wicks, eco, htp and CD. I seem to be coming across issues with wet spots/poor adhesion the sides of my glass jar, wax discoloring, excess soot and not an even melt pool. I've tried so many possibilities I am unsure where to focus on and how to correct what issue. Or how to figure out the root of which issue. please help!
  8. I recently switched from GB 464 to IGI 4630. I LOVE this wax, however I'm having a terrible time finding the right wick. I did a test burn of 6 different wicks yesterday (single wicks tested- Lx 21, Lx 22, Lx24, Lx26. Double wicks tested- Lx 12 and Lx 14) and out of those 6 only 2 came even remotely close to checking off all my boxes. Both of the double wick candles did pretty good. There was a little mushrooming and a small amout of soot coming off the wick for the first minute or two it was lit, but it had a great melt pool and the flame wasnt dancing around. I went to bed satisfied yesterday. Today I relit the LX 14, double wicked candle and it seems to be burning differently, almost like it's trying to put its self out. Is their anyone who can help me? I'm open to any and all advice.
  9. I decided to test out some 4630. I'm going to be using 8oz tins. I'll probably be ordering all my supplies from Candlewic since I can get the best combined shipping rate from them, so I wanted to make sure to get all my wicks from them as I know they can vary slightly from different suppliers. I was thinking about ordering 73, 83, 93, and 104 to give me some good variety, plus I've read on here that htp's work well in this wax. Candlewic doesn't seem to carry htp93's though? Do you all think I could get by without them? Or should I order them from another supplier? I have only used this wax in melts, so wicking is going to be a whole new adventure.
  10. Hello all!! Newbie here who came across this forum doing research. I recently decided to pick up a new hobby of candle making . I ordered a sample kit just to be sure if it’s what I want to do and to get familiar with the wax. I am about to order more wax and wicks, I will be using 8oz tins. I think I want to use ECO wicks, and wanted to know what size I should get. Acroding to Candle Science I should use ECO 10. From doing research on here I should test up a size and down a size of the recommended size. I also know that the FO also plays a part as well. I guess my question is are ECO wicks good for tins? If so what sizes normally works the best. Thanks in advance
  11. I have tried so many wicks but not sure why the flame of my candle just blows out like in 15 mins and also I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong the kind of jar I’m using is a Square mason 8oz glass jar. I’m not sure what kind of wick should I buy from amazon 😓
  12. Greetings flowers! I'm in dire need of a proper wick suggestions for 8 oz tins using 6006 wax. I'm new to candle making and would love some feedback.
  13. I have a question for those of you who are selling candles. If you had to pick 4 types and sizes of wicks that you couldn't run your business without, what would they be? These would be the wicks that you absolutely don't want to run out of stock. List as many as you like. 4 was just an arbitrary number. Q
  14. Has anyone tried these wicks out? If so, what is your opinion.
  15. Hi, I'm new here :) I was hoping someone could explain in theory how a wick burned in different types of waxes works in each one. Lets say I put an lx 10 in a pillar paraffin say 1343. and I put the same wax in a container candle. how would the wax effect the wick performance?a lower melt point wax creates a bigger melt pool right? does that mean that it uses the wax at a higher rate than the harder wax? what are the characteristics of the wax that effects the burning?
  16. Hi i make container candles with soy and bees wax wanted suggestions for the best wax to be used to prime the wick should i use pure beeswax only or the blend of the container candle i am using itself to prime the wick i want to avoid paraffin for priming thanks
  17. Hey everyone! I am new to not only this forum but to making candles as well! I am having a great time making candles, but I am new and I realize the importance of learning from the seasoned people in the group here. I wanted to ask a few questions but also wanted to hear things you struggled with in the beginning and have since learned from! Open to all opinions 1) I am currently using 464 GW, soy. I set the candles with the Eco 10 wick. I have been pouring into 4oz and 8oz jars. There are so many opinions on wax and the 464 seems to be the best for less frosting and bubbling, however there are bad reviews. What is your experience? 2) I eventually want to make a business of this. I heard shipping them in hot areas can deform the product (464) Any insight to that and will changing the wax greatly change the HT? 3) I'm using the Eco 10 wick. It seems like there is some tunneling on the first candle I burned. The mason jar is about 2.5in wide, which is recommended by CandleScience. Insight on this issue? 4) I only burned one, as I have heard to let them cure for a week or two. What's the average time you let your cure for? Do you get better HT when you let them sit longer? Is there a too long? 5) Any insight and experiences that could save me a huge headache relating to wax, FO, etc. would greatly help! I know this will take time to make this into a business and get the formulas down, but I am willing to learn and screw up to make the best product I can! Thanks ahead of time for your responses!
  18. I recently switched from IGI 6006 to Coconut Apricot Wax and initial wick testing was great. Glass jars, 3" diameter, used mostly LX 16. Issue is last batch of wax, purchased around the first of the year has been very problematic and wicks are either tunneling or leaving behind a lot of residue. Testing CD 8 & 10 currently but experiencing similar issues. Anyone else had this experience? Positive initial testing and than random issues for no apparent reason? I've been making candles for over 9 years and I'm totally baffled. Thanks!
  19. I have been using Premier Wicks 700 series, for my first batch of candles, and I didn't get a single HT. I chalked it up to not enough FO since they were pure soy 464, and I had no clue what I was doing. I have since changed to parasoy, and I made a test candle, let it sit for a week, and tested it. Again no HT, with 8-9% FO this time. So instead of adding more FO and making another candle, I threw some into my tart warmer, low and behold the HT is a little to strong. I have used 4 different size of wicks 760,765,767,770. I am using a 9oz hex jar, not sure if that could be the issue either. I am convinced these wicks are not that good, or I missing something. I mean 767 burns perfect, with little to no mushrooming, but they seem to not produce a hot throw at all. I wished I bought the ECO's first but live and learn I guess. Has anyone else had this issue with these wicks.
  20. I started using IGI 6006, and the wax is a parasoy blend- its very soft, to the point where you can squish it in your fingers. I found that in melts I had some success and with candles, I didn't have the throw I wanted and I think that's partly because I was using the wrong type of wick. I have now switched to the CD-6 6' from Bulk Apothecary. I have some candles curing, and to be determined on the scent throw- I have now started combining IGI 6006 with IGI 4794- I find that the cold throw is stronger, but the hot throw doesn't throw like I expected it to. I also tried using IGI 4794 all by itself and I found that when you use pop them out of a mold and cut them- they crack. Any suggestions there? I can't determine the right ratio, and I'm looking for input on what the 'split' should be to get the best throw- ie: 75% IGI 4794 and 25% IGI 6006? 50/50 split? I keep seeing great reviews on the KY Votive/Tart blend and I would really like to give it a try. I looked at the overall cost coupled with shipping, and the cost per oz ends up being $2.75 just for the wax. On average, a 16 oz bottle of FO is approx. $16.00 ie: $1.00 per ounce - so right there for wax and FO's you're at $3.75 per ounce. Once you add in the FO's, and your time, you would be selling 1 oz of wax for $4.50- $5.00 just to make $.50-$1 dollar of profit - AND- if you're scent throw isn't on point, that could effect sales significantly. I can pick up the IGI products somewhat locally, so if anyone has feedback on how they have used these waxes for tarts and candles to obtain an amazing scent throw- I'm all ears!!!! I guess I'm feeling discouraged at the moment and I have been working hard (just as we are all) to make a beautiful product, and I get very frustrated when I am not getting the scent throw I expected. Any feedback is welcome!!!
  21. Can anyone give me some recommendations of wicks you love? I'm new and have been using ECO10 wicks as recommended by Candle Science for my soy gw464 in 9oz glass jars. I've had terrible luck so far with them, either having a small flame that goes out then burning way too hot for the next fragrance I try. Any help would be appreciated!!!
  22. Hey everyone, I am brand new here. I have just recently started making soy candles, I started by buying a candlewick kit on amazon and it came with eco wicks. I just recently made a purchase from a local wholesaler and bought my naturewax c-3, fragrances, and htp 73 wicks. I am currently using 8oz metal containers (generic) sold on the site that I bought the rest of the supplies. I was very please with my first batch, the scent is very strong, which with my previous kit I was struggling with. Okay so great scent, but I'm having wick issues. My candles are tunneling hard and I am bummed out. Any suggestions of which wicks I should try for my container size and my wax? I really want to do well at this, but I am realizing it may cost me a small fortune to even get to making a candle that is sellable. I appreciate any and all replies, thanks for your time!
  23. Hello. I use IGI 6006 in 8 oz jelly jars. I wanted to know whats the best wicks? I use LX wicks and dont like the sooting and mushrooms
  24. I have been using Peak's C-75 Cotton Core wicks for my 11.5 oz Tumbler jars (a little over 3 inch diameter) with IGI 6006 for years. I always liked the Cotton Core because they don't mushroom as much as Zinc Core. I have tried other wicks before, such as HTP, but not extensively. I am all out of C-75's now, and need to find a decent replacement. Since Peak's Cotton Core was, I believe, a proprietary wick, I am wondering if anyone who previously used them has found a suitable replacement for your own candles? Or even if you don't use the Cotton Core, what type of wick do you like best, especially if you use 6006? I have a lot of knowledge about the various wicks Peak carried but would like to find a great replacement without excessive testing. Thanks!
  25. Hello, When does one use waxed vs unwaxed wicks? What is the advantage of one versus the other? I've bought spools of unwaxed wicks and waxing is a big job, so I would like to know if it's really worth it! Thanks!
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