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Found 16 results

  1. Can anyone recommend a wax with short cure time and strong CT/HT? Is there such a thing? I'm currently using C-3, Candlescience FO's and HTP wicks. Zero HT after a month. So ready to ditch C-3 😅
  2. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  3. I what to check with you C3 users about which wick do you get the best hot throw from? I currently use HTP wicks but have been testing CD wicks since some people say they have better hot throw than HTP wicks. I've heard some people like to use Eco wicks with C3. Just looking for feedback as to what you have found to have the best results. I'm personally not seeing any difference between CD and HTP. Thanks in advance....
  4. Hi, I am new here and have searched all over different discussions and haven't had much success finding an answer to my issue. I am having some MAJOR trouble wicking my C3 wax. I've used almost every single wick there is and still don't know what wick I should be using for this wax. I love C3 and the scent throw it provides, but all of my candles aren't reaching full melt pool. Details of everything are below. Containers: 3" diameter x 3.75" tall Fragrance Load: 6% Pour Temp: 160 degrees I have tried the following wicks: HTP 104, 105, 126 and 1212. Premier 765-795 CD 16-22 ECO 12-16 None of these reached full melt pool and some immediately started tunneling. The HTP 1212 was recommended to me for my container size and wax type, but the flame dances and flickers like crazy (no draft or anything near by) and still tunneled a little bit. I understand that C3 is a slow burning wax, but is it that difficult to wick? I spent so much time and money on wicks, wax and fragrance and am getting discouraged at this point. I always let my candles sit for at least 72 hours before I test burn. Any recommendations or help would be much appreciated!
  5. Good evening all, This is my first post but I have been lurking for a very long time and have successfully managed to find an answer for every question I have had so far...until now! I have been wick testing a new jar. I am using C3 wax in a 6oz jam (jelly) jar with a 6% FO load. The jar is a 60mm (2.36") straight sided, round jar and doesn't dip in at the neck. I am using the TCR wick series and I am happy with my with my wick choice after lots of testing. The question that I have is this.... I have got my wick tests down to two wicks. The smaller wick (TCR 24/14) burns nicely, great melt pool and a pretty good HT The larger wick (TCR 27/16) burns nicely, great melt pool and an amazing HT. I have no sooting with either size. The only concern I have with the larger wick is that the jar can get quite hot towards the end of the candle. I can hold the jar for a good few seconds without problem, but it does feel hot. It is not as hot as holding a fresh cup of tea/coffee though. Does this sound ok or is it likely to be too hot? I would like to go with the larger wick, especially in bakery type scents, as the HT is much better. With the larger wick I can smell the HT out of the bathroom, down the stairs and into the open plan kitchen. With the smaller wick, I can get a fairly good scent in my bathroom but not any further. Safety is paramount though so I don't want to use use larger wick if my test results suggest they are too hot? Any advice would be most welcomed. Viki
  6. So I am fairly new to candle making. I’ve been trying at it for the past 6 months and of course like everyone else, the frustration has set in. I am currently using 4oz and 8oz tin containers and using c3 wax. My struggle is figuring out what size/type of wick I should use for my candles. I am not getting a strong hot scent throw. The current fragrances that I have been using come from Justscents.com. I am currently testing different wicks to see what would work best. I purchased sample wicks packets with all different sizes of wicks. Some of the ones that I have are Premier, HTP, CD and ECO. Does anyone have any suggestions on the type of wick I should use and size based on the information I provided? If you need any any other information please let me now so I can provide. Any assistance will be great appreciated! Picture below is me testing the HTP 93 m wick. I let it burn for about 2 hours.
  7. My question is this... to get the best throw you want your burn pool to be 1 inch per hour according to width of container. Am I right? So in other words a 3 inch wide container should take 3 hours to reach full melt pool to achieve the best hot throw? I've been confused by this because you are always hearing that full melt should be reached in 2 hours which kinda goes against what I just said. Thanks for any advice and help in advance.
  8. Oh, please help! I'm using 100% soy wax (Naturewax C3). Adding 1oz FO to 1lb wax. Nothing else. My container of choice is a between 2.75" and 3" diameter heavy bottomed glass tumblers, straight sides. (8-10oz), approx. three inches tall. I'm so frustrated with wicks! I've tried: HTP 104 - not a full melt pool, but nice flame HTP 1212 - dancing flame, smoke/soot, too tall flame HTP 105 - Nice flame, but not a full melt pool...sometimes will reach full melt pool halfway down, with a bit of residue on glass Wooden Wick - Original booster wick - 1/2" wide with 0.020" X.040 booster - beautiful flame, after 5 hours not quite a full melt pool, 2nd burn after 4 hours, still not full melt pool. Please help me with wicks that you HAVE had success with using a 3" diameter tumbler/jar. Or is that just an impossible diameter to reach, using 100% soy? Should I change my container? Thanks for your help! Spent so much time and money on wicks that are not giving me the nice melt pool I would expect with soy! I'm in Canada, but order from Canada and US.
  9. I have been testing both c3 and millennium I have in the past tested 444 464 cb135 and ecosoya advanced I have preferred c3 out of those but liking the no bubbles and clean burn with millennium and the last test I did I felt throw hot and cold might be superior but had to make sure as millennium is more $$ and for me a bit more work with waiting to pour so I have cream brûlée at 7 perecent in each wax and am testing each with eco 1 eco 2 and cd 4. The jigger glasses have one wick and tumblers are double in the past I have had a time double wicking c3 but am using smaller wicks will be separating these into rooms for throw test as well will get back with the winner!
  10. Hi Everyone, New to candle making over the last 6 months and just getting the courage to start selling soon. I've been working with C3 for awhile now. The reason I use them is that I have a distributor that is close enough for me to go and pick it up instead of paying for shipping. I have a question for you that I hope you can answer... I am getting small bubbles forming after I have lit the candle. I am assuming this is a processing issue, but could be mistaken. I have attached a picture to show you what I mean. My parameters are rather simple: 6% FO C3 Wax No additives in this sample Container is 3.4" wide Process: Heat wax to 175F add FO at 150F Pour at 140F Thanks for your help in advance! Swix
  11. Anyone making Tea Lights using C3 in poly cups with or without fragrance? If so, what wick is working for you? I used to use TL28 from CS, now discontinued. Have tried the two ECO .75 and 1 and they seem to burn too hot. Also testing the CSN 5 but it either is very weak or mushrooms depending on the fragrance. Also what's your feeling on fragrance in tea lights? Is it best to leave the unscented? Thank you
  12. Hey guys, Let me first begin by saying how awesome all of you are! I've been a longtime lurker and learned so much from the info in this forum. It's so nice to have a forum like this which supports each other to the level you do. I can't thank you enough for the info here!! Here's my backstory - sorry if it's too much info but if I've learned anything so far it's that there's always a lot of questions about process after people post, lol. I'm using NatureWax C3 and I have no issues with frosting, pitting, craters, voids, etc. It finishes beautiful for me. Standard protocol is to heat to 185, add FO, stir well, pour around 150-ish into warmed containers. I don't use dyes. I began my journey making the pint size, shouldered mason jars with 1 oz FO/pp of wax and ECO 8 wicks. Great hot throw, clean burn, etc. As I'm expanding to the Libbey highball glasses from Lone Star (13.25 ounce ones - 3.125" in diameter) I'm having trouble with HT and wicking. If I use the ECO 8 wick, I get a low-moderate hot throw and more tunneling than I'd like to see, even after 4th burn. The tunneling and lack of HT makes sense since it's a much wider and non-shouldered container. I figured I needed to wick up so I tried some with the ECO 10 but there is barely any HT, the flame is crazy tall and flickers; the melt pool is pretty deep too- all of which is a sign of being too big of a wick, right? There isn't an ECO 9, and I saw that a lot of folks here recommend CD wicks so I ordered a sample pack of them. I made different batches with CD 8, 10 and 12 wicks. The 12 was just too big and the 10 seemed too big too. No good HT with either of them, crazy flickering and tall flames. The 8 had a better throw and good melt pool but flickers a lot with a good 1" tall+ flame. The 6 would seem too small to me and the charts I've seen make me think it's too small but what do I know at this point, lol. So I explained all of that to ask what characteristics of the flame/wick are deal breakers for you guys? I've watched the CS video with the 3 candles and most of the combinations I've tried in this container look like the one they say is over-wicked. Am I just being neurotic with a taller flickering flame and everything else being great? Are there any other factors here that I'm not thinking of? Thanks for reading!
  13. Hi, I was getting a better hot throw when I was experimenting with 464 in tins than I'm getting with C3 in jelly jars with eco wicks and I want to understand why the difference. I switched to C3 weeks ago because I'll be selling online and need wax that will ship reasonably well in hot weather. Does it make a difference to hot throw if you use tin instead of glass? C3 is super easy to work with and the cold throw is very good, but after two weeks cure the hot throw is too weak. I've been pouring the FO at a very cool temp, just before slush stage because the cold throw was better that way and I figured the hot throw would be also. Am I wrong to pour FO at such a low temp if higher temp lessens the cold throw? Is it possible to have a weak cold throw and a strong hot throw? What temp works best for you to add FO? Sorry to ask so many questions. I really thought things were going swimmingly but if I have weak hot throw after two weeks... well I have to recognize I have not got things worked out yet. I'd be grateful for any advice . Thank you to all ?
  14. I know this has been talked in older posts but I'm looking any updated assistance can be given to wicking this jar. I'm trying to single wick it, 16 oz., 3.5 in diameter in C3, no dye. If you've wicked it, please help a rookie out???
  15. Hello all. I'm totally hooked I'm fairly new to candle making (3 months) and have learned so much from this forum within the past month, you guys have no idea how much you help people just starting out. I had made a soy candle; (c3 naturewax, only wax I use) 8 oz. jelly jar wicked it with ECO 6, cd 12 and 44-24-18 to test. 1 oz. FO pp wax added FO at 180 degrees and poured in to jj at 150 degrees. I didn't add any dye and waited for it to cure about 2 weeks. The candle looked wonderful, no cracks, wick was centered, I got some wet spots on the container but from what see, that's to be expected. The ct was wonderful (lemongrass) but I was somewhat upset at the ht....... On a hunch, I scooped out the soy wax (very soft) and melted it in my tart warmer. Inside of 30 minutes, my home smelled like a lemon orchard. (lol). I realize that HT varies according to diameter size of container, so comparing my jj (2.5 inches in diameter) to a tart warmer, (3 inches) isn't a good comparison, but the HT should be somewhat similar. My questions; Should I expect a candle to give off the same ht as a tart warmer and what other wicks should I be testing to achieve the best HT? Thanks everyone!!!!
  16. Hi all, This might be a silly question but here goes. Does the color of a FO determine anything, like how heavy or light the scent is, or whether or not you may need to wick up/down? Thanks
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