Although I'm not using Eco wicks, I am using GW464 wax and in my recent testing, got a much better burn and more stable flame with the slight addition of stearic acid, of which I'm adding 1-1/2 teaspoon for 9 ounces (currently pouring Libbey Status Jars).

Just to chime in here ... I finally got a little bottle of WSP's and at first whiff I realized I've had this scent before! I ordered from a place in Maine years ago and they had a pine scent that I really liked, but the company went out of business. Since then, I've ordered some Christmas Trees and other pine-types, but could not seem to get this scent again. I'm glad to have crossed paths with it again. On another note, I had to place an order for a few wicks, so went to Cierra to get that and they have a scent with the same name, so I ordered an ounce to see if it was the same ... it is similar scent-wise, but strength-wise, it's not the same, so theirs is not the same product.

I'm starting to test out WSP's "Detergent Free Three Butter Soap" -- on my first test, I've realized that this is much softer than the SFIC "LCP" (like cold process) that I've been toying with, so I'm going to see if adding some stearic acid will help harden it up a bit. After my first test that resulted in a pretty soft bar, I used it as a minor addition to the SFIC as a blend and it worked nicely. So, now I'll see if adding just a bit of the SFIC to a higher percentage of the WSP will work at making it a harder soap, or stearic acid, or I may experiment by adding just a bit of beeswax to it. I'd like this to work for me because I order some other items from them and the purchase of the m/p helps for my combined order. So, I'll do some more tests and post back later.

I think it will be fine. I'd do a test before pouring your large batch, as you've mentioned, but I think wicking for the largest diameter is usually the key.

As if the entire thing wasn't bad enough, pouring that scent in like that threw me to the floor.

The dye overflowing could not have been a fun party. Possibly the seller didn't want to short you on the dye, but I think probably they didn't want to mess with having to fill the dropper in order to secure it on the bottle for you ... shame on them ... they should have then included a note that you would need to be careful and squeeze the dropper to pull up liquid. I find that if you don't allow the bulb to fill up with dye and only fill the glass dropper tube, careful not to get any on the bottle, it can stay cleaner a bit longer. Yet, I really don't like handling the liquid dyes, so I'm in the habit of melting just a bit of wax, pouring it into a little mold (I use a silicone cupcake mold and fill it about 1/4" or so), then using liquid dye, use about twenty drops or so (if not mixing colors, if mixing colors, use a bit of one and some of another), carefully stir it around in the mold with a mini spatula (like what is sometimes used in cosmetics or to push cuticles back, lol) and when I make candles, shave little fragments off of it. This way, I don't have to handle the liquid dye bottles more than I absolutely have to.

I've read that you shouldn't use a mold release spray on silicone molds, but that there is a silicone spray that can be used. Have you tried pouring without using the spray?

That makes a lot of sense. I'd like to add that the jars I'm about to pour came from the Jar Store, which a friend purchased (going to do the candles for her), and one of them had a chip. I remember Libbey glassware being so sturdy, but maybe now, as with many things, we simply are not receiving quite the same quality of products as days gone by.

Did you try making one with your combination of those two waxes without any scent to see how they blend?

I'm sorry to hear about those jars! Libbey glassware used to have their name etched on the bottom of the jar/glass, but I see with a Status Jar I have here, that their name does not appear on the jar or the lid. Maybe they stopped doing that, but I've also purchased Libbey glassware from discount stores, seeing their company name etched in the glass. So, now, how do we know it's really Libbey? I attempted to search on the Libbey website for that jar, but I'm not coming up with it, I was curious to look at it on their site. Well, I'm not of much help here, I know, "dumbfounded" as well.

I guess I should have said "addition" rather than "correction," as I was responding to your description: "Htp wicks are flat cotton core" Yes, they are cotton and paper.

A friendly correction @TallTayl ... htp (high temp paper) ... and I agree, the htp doesn't seem to work as well with soy as cotton, I think it may get clogged a little or something (from comments I've read, it does well with some soy blends.)

I think "soy candle" is probably the better choice. First, because soy crops are not completely natural. Second, I think you use UV additive. So, probably better to leave the "natural" to the minds of the consumer. Also, our the f/o's we use aren't natural. It's a delightful and simple design, very sweet.

With the wet spots, those can happen at any time as far as I can tell. So much of it has to do with temperatures in the room or of the glass, etc. that fluctuate and are beyond our control, that it's hard to predict when and where they are going to occur. I use the same wax and sometimes there are no air pockets and I don't need to do a repour (top layer), while other times I do need to, and poking a relief hole is sometimes necessary. I often do this the following morning after pouring in the evening if the candle requires it. This same color wax for the top layer cosmetically and physically pulls it all together. It seems that some of @Greywicklane's candles may be candidates for a repour and are not coming out to be one-pour candles, such as some of mine do whenever they feel like it. If this is the case, I would say to leave room for two additional layers -- one of them being your repour layer (a relief hole may help here before pouring) and then the other one being your colored layer. Allow your candle to cool and if it needs a repour after setting up, go ahead and do that (same color as candle) and as soon as the repour layer hardens, pour your colored layer. In other words, the colored layer should not be the remedy repour layer, it should an extra, decorative layer.

Beads? I think they're hiding.

Just my opinion, but I think a single wick looks nicer in that glass. And, for wick trimming, I think that it's easier when there is one wick in the middle if the glass or jar isn't over about 3.5+"

I don't think the f/o would settle in the pouring pot if you stirred it well when you added it, and once again after the wax is ready to pour. If you feel that you perhaps didn't stir enough, maybe, although I kind of doubt it.

I'd like to add that to fill this particular jar only to the point where the lid will still fit on properly, it did not accept the full 9-ounces (in order to leave room for the lid, the pour level is 1/2 inch from the rim.)

Okay ... I'm following up with some good news as far my test candle is concerned. It's a 12-oz. Libbey Status jar (3" diameter) with a #2 cotton square braid wick. I melted 9 ounces of the GW464 I just received that was undated and seemed more moist with more of an ivory tone than my previous orders, added 1.5 teaspoon of stearic acid, 1/2-ounce of scent (on the generous side). It almost reached a full melt pool after the first four hours of burning, but not quite and got there by the second burn session. The scent seems to be doing alright and the candle seems very nice overall.

How many of them are you shipping? How far away is your customer from you?

My guess is ... of course they do! To tell you the truth, I bet it is still the medium of choice among many candle makers. I make soy candles and gel candles, but I'm never without some good old "regular wax" around for novelty candles, pillars, votives. For me, coconut is too expensive; beeswax also for that matter, plus I think you need to have more patience than I do to work with it (although I do use it for lip balms); and I won't use palm wax -- so soy, gel, paraffin are my main waxes.

I've bought them from several different companies, this product is messy however it's packaged. The last one I bought, however, was in a glass bottle with a dropper and it's holding up much better, but that company is no longer in business. I've purchased some that are in plastic bottle with built-in dropper, some without a dropper at all. Over time and with use, the plastic and the cap gets messy even if you are careful with them. I think from now on when I get a bottle, I'm going to rebottle it in glass with a glass dropper, making sure to not get any into the bulb of dropper. I keep these bottles in their own little case with napkins on top because whenever I touch them, it seems I need a napkin, lol. Seriously though, I think most of the companies that sell them are pretty similar as far as the dye goes, it's just a matter of how they bottle it and how well they are at describing the color. Perhaps someone else has a favorite company for these.

I've only used very little color with soy, so it normally comes out a pastel shade of the dye I've used. If I wanted to try for a strong, solid color, I would use liquid dye since it wouldn't require adding any wax that is incorporated in the dye blocks. Yet, if I wanted a certain shade and couldn't achieve it somehow with liquids, but found it easily accessible in a dye block, I would use it in small quantities. I've made quite a few with color speckles or light swirls by using either purchased dye block, or making my own using liquid dye and soy wax.

It looks as though both of those waxes have a fragrance load of 10% if I'm reading that correctly, so that's easy. I think you should allow to cure for at least a week or more.