birdcharm

@Clear Black, I watched the videos ... thanks for your thoughts on this! It really seems to me that the f/o does not lose potency as the candle is cooling. Perhaps with essential oils, this may be true, but I really don't think it is with fragrance oils and I feel that they are created to be blended with hot wax. I've always allowed my wax to cool down just a bit from the highest temperature before adding f/o, but nothing like is being suggested in that video. On the second video, they didn't mention any temperatures, but I found it interesting that they do not press down their wick tabs when securing them (something I typically do) and that they move a poured candle (something I try to never do) ... I noticed as they were packing one into a box, that it didn't have a clean "meet" between wax and glass, that there was a little (sloppy) area where wax had moved up the glass due to being moved. P.S. I'm not sharing this type of info to criticize videos, but to discuss information that may be provided that could possibly be inaccurate.

I've watched the video and I must say that things in the video are not done as I do them. There was a deep melt pool at two hours. I've never used wooden wicks, but it seems as though they are too big for the container. The f/o is used at 12% and I think it was added at about 125dF, I'm not sure, but I don't want to watch it again to confirm that -- it was added just before the wax started to cloud. It was not a surprise that the candle that was permitted to cure for a few days had better throw than the one that was burned at less than 24 hours, although the claim in this video is that the one that cured the longest was not different than the one that only cured for a few days. My thought about it is that the wick is too large for the container; 12% f/o is too high for a wick that large; the f/o should be added sooner; and the candles need to cure at least for several days. A comment is made about the duration of time between when the f/o is added at a higher temp. to when it is poured ... I have felt that during this time the f/o is blending with the wax -- the opinion of the video is that the scent is somehow being lost. I'm not so sure this is the case. I've only worked with soy wax for a few years now (much longer with other waxes), so if anyone has some input about this, I'd love to hear it!

I'm kind of posting prematurely, as I have not been able to view this entire video I spotted, so I will need to come back. However, I spotted this on a youtube sidebar and thought I'd click on it just to see what it was about. I only watched the first minute or so, but there was a comment made in the video about when to add scent to GW464 (Akosoy 5702-02-02) -- they are advising to add f/o after the wax has cooled considerably. In some ways, this seems to go against what I've learned about adding f/o's to get them to bind properly -- but, maybe I'm wrong. So, I thought I'd post it and I'll watch it more later and then maybe this could be helpful to others and myself. I usually don't like to either watch or critique these types of video, btw, but the topic of when is the best time to add scent has caught my attention.

Hi ... you might try adding your f/o at the high end of your 150-180dF. I add my scent at about 170 and pour at about 130-140, lightly stirring once again prior to pouring. If you could let us know the diameter of your jar and the type and size wicks you're using, that would be helpful too. Also, what % f/o, what scent/supplier?

Maybe activated carbon like you would use in an aquarium? Moth balls contains a pretty serious chemical, btw, I can't think of the name of it, but it's why you aren't supposed to breathe it all the time or handle it without gloves.

Okay, let's say it wasn't made defective, but it arrived melted ... that's more realistic. In such a case as shipping damage, then if the customer sends a photo of the damage, I would say that a replacement would be fair, but perhaps charge for shipping -- let's say it was packaged well, but the customer was out of town and allowed it to sit on their porch -- there needs to be some responsibility on the part of the customer in certain scenarios. I guess that's why some people refuse to ship certain items during temperature extremes, then it eliminates the problem. I just personally cannot see leaving it up to a customer to safely package and return candles. Also, a common phrase (I think so anyway), is "due to the nature of our products, all sales are final" -- that's because if it's a product that gets opened (or burned, etc.), then it's no longer new. I think it's better to offer little sample scent sniffers so people could order those if they'd like to see what the f/o smells like before ordering. It seems that in some ways saying up front that the sale is final probably avoids some problems, then, if something arises, you can be flexible based on the scenario, but the warning up front eliminates the expectation of a replacement order ... I mean, how many times would someone be permitted to order a box of stuff, not like the scent and return it?

I think Kerven guessed it!!

Say that part again .... 🤫

So, what's the matter with "all sales are final?"

Well, troubleshooting is so much fun. It could be that switching containers is cooling the wax to a point below the optimum temp. for adding f/o for that wax. I read about the 200dF temp. at Candles and Supplies, so I'm pretty sure that it's probably good advice. Interesting about the craters, I thought this wax was a one-pour!

Those are very cute ... have you tested one yet?

Just to follow up for my own notes ... do you think it's best to bring that wax up to 200 degrees?

I think you may have reheated the leftover amount and poured it over those candles at too high a temperature so you got a marbled frosting effect. When doing a top pour, it's especially important to really let the wax really cool down (if it's soy wax) ... to get a clean appearance (no lines on the side of the container) and less risk of any cracking, lightly use a heat gun on the candle before doing your repour.

It looks great, I had a feeling it was going to light up like a rose globe! Is it a scented candle?

Maybe see what happens if you heat to 200df, add your scent at about 190, stir and pour ... maybe those few degrees would help it out ...?

I've been reading a little bit about this wax, I might try it one day. I've actually collected some notes about it in advance. So, according to some suppliers, it's heated to 200dF, poured at 180-190dF ... does this sound right?

It probably depends on if the scent is more butter scent or rum scent, hard to tell sometimes unless you try it out. I bought a Vanilla-Caramel from Community when they were closing it out, and it is very strong, smelling like burnt caramel. I see they now have a "Butterscotch and Bourbon" ... can't help but wonder what that one might be like. I see they now have a Creme Brulee Caramel, I wonder if it's similar to the strong caramel I got from them before. I've tried some caramels and they are just too smooth for candles, it seems, while others are very toasty!

I have copied this from my notes, but I think I saw it here, and I don't know what the pricing was. American Soy Organics

Are these wide mouth jars? I tend to think that wide mouth jars produce better throw. If they're wide mouth, then I guess that probably isn't part of the problem. Perhaps others do not have issue with narrow-topped jars, but for some reason, I do, so I try to use containers that have wider tops.

I haven't tried paracoconut wax, but I'd like to. I read the reviews on their site and the customer comments said it was a nice wax. As for their scents, I used to order from them a bit and found their scents to be good overall, but perhaps with a tinge of an artificial nature here and there, as I find many suppliers seem to carry within their fragrance lines. (For instance, I once ordered their Blueberry scent, which was a really nice and very appealing scent, but it wasn't a realistic blueberry.) Of the ones on your list, the only one I might be cautious about (i.e., order smaller size) is the Hot Buttered Rum, as sometimes the buttery scents can be on the light side ... I've found that some caramel scents can be a bit more potent, yet still have that buttery feel.

Last winter, just for kicks, I made a tallow-paraffin container candle ... I've still got it, used it during a power outage a few weeks ago, not too bad!

I really don't exactly know why I'm posting this, except for that my husband spotted this and said, "well, there went your candles." It didn't sound as though the oil had leaked out of the containers. "A train derailed Sunday morning in northwestern Iowa, sending 20 cars carrying soybean oil and sand into the Floyd River, and heavy rain might have caused the derailment. According to the Des Moines Register, the bridge collapsed beneath the Union Pacific train, sending the cars into the waterway Sunday morning." Train Derails

It looks as though you're doing it right! Your products are interesting too!

Those are good examples. The page with the list needs a better design. It's one thing to have a list in a drop-down box, imo, but when it comes to page design, I think it's better to group them into categories to break it up.

@Trappeur, I asked a similar question at some point, as I've always tested with fragrance oil included -- but, I'm already familiar with the waxes and wicks I'm using. I think that probably plays into this a bit as to whether or not to test a new container with or without scent. When I first pondered it, it was explained to me as it's been explained to you just now and it makes sense if you don't know your wax/wick and similar container variable good enough to first test without scent, but I think for those of us who already have a good feel for things, it might be a different story.