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birdcharm last won the day on November 9 2018

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About birdcharm

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    candles, bath & body

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  1. I think she's asking for a list of everything you have that is something that you might use in order to make products with for sale. The best thing, imo, would be to make candles with those supplies and see how much of it you can sell before the year is out so you don't have so much in your stock. 🙂 If there are scents you want to personally use only, just treat them as something personal and don't include them on anything, either the expense list or the inventory.
  2. I'm not in the business of selling candles, but I do know a little about inventory. Your molds, melting pots, packaging materials, and other equipment would be items that are considered expenses, not a material that you sell. So, then what you have would be any materials (wax, containers, etc.) that you bought that you can still use which you've set aside for making/selling.
  3. Last year, I decided I would do an experiment of my own just to see what I thought of adding some e/o to my f/o. My thought was to make a fir f/o a little more natural smelling, so I bought some Scotch Pine and Pine Needle e/o's and added a little of both to my fir f/o. I used C3 at 6% with RRD cotton wick ... I'll use it for other things, but it was not impressive. Of course, this is just my one little try at it, and maybe if I had added the f/o at one temp. and the e/o at a lower temp. it may have made a difference ...? ... don't know, but I'll stick to f/o's for candles from now on and only use e/o's in other ways. I should have known this anyway, but my thought was that maybe the e/o could give my f/o a new direction, which it did, just not for my candle in that instance.
  4. I have a feeling that if there are essential oils in the fragrance oil, then the lower temp method probably does better. I was thinking that if I add any e/o's to my f/o's that maybe I'd try adding the f/o at a higher temp and the e/o at a lower temp, but I haven't taken the time to do that yet to experiment, as I really don't think e/o's have much place in candles.
  5. As long as you don't use the lightweight gel, it would encase firmly. If you wanted the entire design to be a candle, you can make the flowers or other design out of a high melt point paraffin wax and work with those, although the method for pouring would be entirely different.
  6. I'm not understanding the "gritty" description ... everything I've ever read about it says it has a silky feel to it, which is why I thought of it. I wasn't trying to steer you wrong, I promise!! 🙂 I was curious to at least do a search for it and see that Nature's Garden carries it, but I didn't look any further. Here's what they say about it: Cornsilk powder is used in natural cosmetics, skincare, and soap for its ability to soften the skin. Cornsilk used in body powders provides a silky feel. Cornsilk can be used in soap as a natural brown coloring. Cornsilk adds silkiness and glide to these recipes. Cornsilk can be used in the formulation of facial masks to provide skin softening. Cornsilk can be used in body powder formulas since it provides a silky feel. Cornsilk can be added to soap recipes for gentle exfoliation. ( source ) In some ways, with natural skin care products, I think people are more open to products having tint to them due to the natural ingredients, i.e., powder not being white-white.
  7. I'd like to try cornsilk powder one day ... have you tried that as part of your recipe?
  8. So, on this public board, how can @Busy Bee and @TallTayl protect their idea for a tapered wooden wick? Don't mind me, I'm just writing out loud. I know advice of this sort is not free, but this is interesting, imo. I think they may be onto something here. 🙂
  9. I also have had some uneven "hangup" of wax which eventually melts away, as long as it does do that, then I think it's okay. Apologies for my typo up there, "is as important note" should have been AN important note, and I do think that's really important. Glassware that narrows in the middle is probably best considered an exception to feeling it should accomplish a with a full melt pool very quickly, as in order to not over-wick the lower portion of the container, the upper part needs to be what would normally be considered under-wicked if it was a straight-sided glass; those need to have wax cling in order to be safe when the candle burns down to the narrower section. I guess this is why I prefer straight-sided glassware or wide mouth jars, much more simple to work with in that regard. This could also be why I enjoy making gel candles from time to time, a little hang up can be quite useful and light still shines through, the same goes for dyed wax in a clear container, a little color up the sides is pretty with a flame behind it. 🙂
  10. I think basing wick size on the center part of the glass is as important note, regardless of the shape of the glass. As for what is tolerated, well, there are some jars in which hang up can't be tolerated because they'll never catch up, for instance, very wide containers. I think if there is still wax on the glass at the onset of the second burn, but it begins to melt or fully melts during the second burn session, all is well. From my experience, if it's still hanging on by the third burn, some may eventually melt if the candle is left to burn for a while, but it's not a guaranty, so I usually will go up a size in those cases. Part of the candle burning, imo, that has charm is when the candle is about half-way burned and the flame shines through the glass as much as possible.
  11. I think one of the things about "allergens" is that anything can potentially be one. Some people can probably have a reaction to coconut oil (maybe ...?) if they're allergic to coconut, so I don't know that there is any way to actually point these things out. The same goes for essential oils, let's say petitgrain, for instance, which can cause skin reaction in sunlight, it's not as though you can really put every warning on the labels. For some of these issues, a little enclosure note with some information can probably be a good thing to include, but that's really just going the extra mile to inform your customers, not something that is required from what I've gathered.
  12. Thank you ... I signed up with Shippo at some point, compared a small package rate with the Paypal shipping and it was the same, so I printed from there for that one. I can see how the other services can be more efficient if you have several packages. Plus, it can be a personal preference regarding where the payment is going to be logged, if you want to have your credit card on file with the shipping service, etc.
  13. I'm not sure that I'll be of much help, but I did try to do a little reading on the link below. If you can't find a perfect answer, I would list the ingredients as you normally would, but place a line somewhere on the label that says "Contains Lanolin" ... that way, if someone knows they have an issue, they will view it as a warning. For those without any issues, well, I guess, they may view it as a benefit. Lanolin Notes
  14. If you don't want to see if those candles will straighten out (which they might on enough hot days ... you could set them in the sun for a while too), then I would reuse the gel by using it as "chunks" in another candle. You would do a similar method as you would with wax chunks for the most part, but if you would like the gel chunks to retain their color more & not be diluted so much, then pour some uncolored or different color gel into the glass first, give it a few minutes to cool off a little, then start adding your chunks and continue this way up the glass (i.e., pouring & adding) until you top it off.
  15. I agree that the Regional Boxes can serve well under certain conditions, there are a couple of different shapes to those boxes too, which can be useful. Also, for some labels, the Paypal shipping service can come in handy. I hope this won't be too off-topic, but it has to do with shipping and I'm curious if anyone happens to know about sending fragrance oils. I've read all of the details regarding the rules, but I can't seem to figure out if there is a way to mark a package "Surface Mail Only" (etc.!), and have it go First Class if it's a small box. I've read that ground/parcel is the method, but it seems it might be available for F/C. On that note, I placed an order with a small company and they send F/Os w/ lower than the standard flashpoints F/C w/o any markings on the box! A real no-no.
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