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birdcharm last won the day on November 9

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About birdcharm

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    candles, bath & body

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  1. Conditions are always going to be something to consider, so, in that case, no answer given is going to be a true-for-everyone--every time remedy. Yet, with some waxes that are not too particular, you may not have to do cartwheels in order to get them to perform to your liking. In those cases, if someone knows a wax very well and has used it under varied conditions, most likely it's pretty safe for them to say that their experience tells them its not so finicky. I don't think Scented Pleasurez was boasting about knowing everything about this wax, but clearly, she seems to feel from her experience that it was safe to say that it performs well under a wide range of conditions and she was trying to give advice regarding that point. @TallTayl, I'd like to know if ScentedPleasurez wished to change her mind about posting here, could she? I mean ... has she been banned from posting? And, if so, may we know why?
  2. I think it's a good thing that you raised your temperature for adding scent. I normally add just after removing from heat, so at about 170, then I gently stir again prior to pouring the candles. In some ways, I think soy wax is like gel wax in that scent throw isn't their best feature, but you should get some anyway. What scents are you using?
  3. birdcharm

    Heat Gun Alternatives?

    Thanks ... I may have gotten a bit too close, and, before the gun died, the low setting went out on it, so that might have been part of the problem. I first got it about 18 years ago, lol, from a Harbor Freight Tools when I was actively making gel candles, so probably today's guns are a bit better.
  4. birdcharm

    Heat Gun Alternatives?

    It does seem to work nicely, I tried it yesterday after reading your post. I was a bit nervous about the wicks getting singed or something, but all was well, I kept it on very low. I had to do a 1/8th inch top pour, but put the candles right back, leaving the oven on very low, then turned it off and allowed everything to sit. I got a nice smooth top.
  5. birdcharm

    Wicks for 6006

    I decided to go with an HTP wick for my test and I have no idea what this wick is, lol, but I have enough of them to do this project, so if it works, great! They were samples from a long time ago, and I don't even think this wick is still being made ... I don't know ... I did a quick search and didn't come up with anything on it. In any event, I'm going to give it a try ... HTP1515. I'm using GW464 without adding anything except f/o (no stearic or color). I'm glad you're figuring out your tureens with your wax.
  6. birdcharm

    White candle dye

    It's commonly used for many things (it's a mineral ... i.e., used in cosmetics as a sunscreen component, or whitening agent) ... and, in candles, it's used as a pigment to make candles white, which I believe most dye blocks are comprised of. It's fine for use as an over dip or for some "whipped cream" wax, but when used within the body of the candle, it typically will clog the wick.
  7. birdcharm

    White candle dye

    It seems that every time I try to use even the smallest amount of white dye my wicks are more sluggish. At least that is what I think the problem is, and, if I use a metal pick and run it up the wick, it'll behave nicely for awhile and then become clogged again, so I think it's the white dye block. So, for a white candle, I'm going to just try a paraffin wax, stearic acid as an additive with a colorless f/o.
  8. birdcharm

    Wicks for 6006

    That's interesting ... I've mainly used HTP104's and have never had that problem. I'm going to be test burning a smaller size in a few days, I'll have to see if it leans! Also, I poured the tureen my neighbor presented me with, she wants one wick only if at all possible. I'll try. 😭
  9. birdcharm

    Heat Gun Alternatives?

    Well, my heat gun broke and @bfrobertsI'm working at the same thing. What I didn't like about my heat gun was that the one I had didn't come with different attachments, and it blew air a little stronger than I preferred, sometimes moving wax up to the glass, which I can't stand! What I've tried so far and will continue to work with here pretty soon is placing my candles in my little convection oven with it not on the convection setting, at about 100 degrees and then turning it off while the candles cool and leaving them in there. I did a test run and it seemed to work with my soy wax.
  10. birdcharm

    Wicks for 6006

    It seems that CD's tend to lean to one side, but I've never seen that with HTP's before.
  11. birdcharm

    Wick Testing

    So my neighbor tells me she's going to pick up some glasses and would like me to make some candles for her ... we've done this before ... but, what does she bring me? Among some simple jelly jars and wide glasses, some little jars that look like a beehive and ... guess what? ... tureens!! For me, it's more efficient to go with what I already know regarding wicks I've become familiar with and see what they do in the container. If I just needed to see the melt pool size or how a wick performs in itself, that would be different, or if it was for pillar candles. But, for container candles with container wax, I need to see how it's going to perform within the container I'll be using. I need to test this little beehive jar (as well as tureen) and I'll half fill it with two different sample wicks, this should tell me how it's going to burn at the widest point. Since selecting a wick for the widest point is part of the deal, and the walls of the glass play a critical role in all of this, I can't seem to understand how a tray test would tell me anything more than melt pool size when not in a container and wick personality when not in a container. Again, I can see how it works in a process of elimination, etc., but as for a true test, to really see how it burns in the container, I think that tells you more about it and you get to burn a candle, even if it doesn't burn right. It's just my own opinion.
  12. birdcharm

    Wick Testing

    I don't seem to understand the testing in trays method for some reason. I mean, you can see how a wick burns and the size of the melt pool, but isn't that just about it? You can't tell how it's going to perform in any given glassware or other container, so to me, tray testing might give you a basic idea, but then you'd still have to container test anyway. For instance, some wicks might seem to be too small for some containers and don't form a full melt pool right away, but catch up later in the life of the candle -- you can only know this through testing the wick in the container itself. The walls of the container have much to do with the way the wick performs, imo, so I think that's why I don't understand the purpose of tray testing beyond finding out some basics, which you'd find out anyway through a real test in a container.
  13. For the past few years, I have been pouring some of the same wax into a 12oz. Anchor Elite Jar (photo-link), which also has a 3.5" diameter. I haven't been using f/o at 10%, a bit under that amount, but I haven't had any burning problems using a square braid cotton wick, #2 (note that it's #2, not 2/0). I didn't buy this wicking (I purchase raw wick and tab them myself) at Cierra Candles, but I've purchased other sizes there, so they might have it.
  14. Yes, temperature information is often shared. Although, not exact temperatures were shared directly, information regarding the range was presented to you, with the advice to adjust your temperature and try again. In reading the posts, when it was stated that "you are making things harder than they are" -- that was, imo, a sincere effort to get you on track -- maybe not the answer you were precisely looking for, but good advice all in all. I don't think you should be feeling either humiliated or embarrassed. There's an old saying about teaching, something about teaching how to fish rather than give the fish -- perhaps you were looking for a precise temperature, which, as others said, can vary due to all sorts of things -- there's nothing wrong with hoping for an easy answer, but even if someone were to give you one, you still have to do your own adjustments and testing.
  15. birdcharm

    Thoughts on blending

    The first candle making book I ever read said to add the scent in drops ... I know I've mentioned this before, but most people don't have the time to add it quite so slowly, although I do make it a point to pour the f/o slowly while stirring with a large spoon. Others here have other good stirring methods, including the use of spatulas, etc. It always makes me wonder when I see a video where the scent is splashed in and lightly "stirred" (not really stirred, like in a circle or a figure eight pattern, but a quick back & forth movement) with a thin stick ... I mean, how exactly is that going to adequately incorporate the scent?