bfroberts

Yep. Just add FO. I've tried several bases and DIY recipes and this one is by far the best, IMO.

I use the base from the Candlemakers Store. It's the best one I've found.

It is generally recommended that you cure soy for 2 weeks. If you need to change the wick after test burning, level the surface and allow the candle plenty of time to completely reset and cool. I usually wait overnight (at least) before retesting...just to be sure.

I am still with the guild too. I've looked into every other company I've ever seen mentioned and not a single one of them offer coverage in my area.

IDK what happened to your candles specifically, but that wax is very, very soft, with a low melt point. Not really suited for shipping in warm months unfortunately.

Which wax are you using? The Volcano isn't super strong in wax, but it does throw. I use that one in soap. BRV isn't my favorite BRV, but unless it's changed, it should have a reasonably good throw. Never tried Bahama Fizz.

I think Eco 10 is too big for that wax/jar combo.

CD's also do well in PB600. For an 8oz tin, I'd start testing w/CD 8.

I'd probably say stay away from palm wax initially since it burns in a less-traditional manner than what many people are accustomed to. In all seriousness, I think the best thing to stay away from when learning candle making is Facebook, Reddit, YouTube. The bad advice outnumbers the good by miles, and it's impossible for a new maker to know the difference. There is a ton of great info right here on this forum. And you can always ask your supplier for info.

You can try wicking down to Eco 1 if you have those, but the 2's will probably work better after a little more cure time. Otherwise, CD, zinc, HTP, LX all work well in this wax. Zincs are nice doubled because they don't curl, and usually they don't mushroom or require trimming if sized conservatively. I'd test 36z first and go up from there if necessary.

You have to experiment with pour temp and cooling rate to prevent holes. I pour around 160 and insulate to cool. It isn't hard to prevent holes in that container, but you do need to make sure they cool slowly. Just a cardboard box placed over the candles as they cool works great. As for wicking, I aim for the wicks to self-trim with no mushrooms. Curing for a couple of weeks prior to burning works out a lot of the kinks. After a good cure, if you are still experiencing mushrooming and the wicks aren't self-trimming, there are several things you can try.....wick down, less FO, less dye, or a different wick series altogether.

The whole thing is concerning.

Exactly. I just googled to make sure and there it was: https://www.makeyourown.buzz/about-us/#:~:text=In late 2020 Chemistry Connection,staff is second to none.

I'm pretty sure The Chemistry Connection (save on citric) was also purchased by WSP.

You'd think eventually someone would figure out how to speed up their shipping.

Based on how I like to wick my candles, I'd probably shoot for a FMP on the 3rd burn. ETA: It really just depends on the container. A lot of factors to consider.

I only use 6%. I might round up a tad if the math works out better that way but I never use more than 7% at the most. I wouldn’t think 8% would be too much though. Candle making is just brutal!

If it seems to be burning well, but it's not self-trimming, try one size down. Or...less FO, less dye, longer cure. When everything is correct, they self-trim pretty well for me. Unfortunately, some FO's just aren't cooperative, and no matter what you do they just don't want to burn well.

I like Eco in PB600. CD also work well.

I use several jar types, and they all work, but mason jars and the small straight sided jars are probably the easiest I've found to wick. Tumblers and tins are harder because in the early burns no heat is really held inside the jar to help that melt pool along. I don't double wick my 3" jars. I don't double anything under 3.5". The long cures really do help in those bigger jars. There are just so many factors involved, and sometimes a combo just won't seem to work out no matter what you do.

I cure for a minimum of 2 weeks. It really does burn better after it's cured. This wax changes significantly. In my experience, it often just will not burn well when it's too freshly poured, which makes wicking very tricky if you test too soon. It's not super tricky. I think the biggest problems are that people get tripped up trying to get that full melt pool, and 6006 just doesn't cooperate. And also people don't think it should need to cure, so that step gets skipped. I've got one really difficult FO that I use fairly often. It just will not burn at all until the wax has had plenty of cure time. And every once in a while you'll find one that just needs a different type of wick. Fortunately with 6006 there are multiple options.

6006 can be tricky to work with. It burns down and then out, meaning it doesn't reach a full melt pool easily. If you are trying to get a full melt pool on the first burn, you really just have to give that up. There is no way to do it, especially in a tumbler style jar, without using a wick that will be way too big once the candle burns down. The best thing you can do to get the best burn is to allow the candle plenty of time to cure. I'd wait at least a week before test burning, but 2 weeks is better. It'll give you fits it you try to burn it too soon. I've used LX wicks a lot in 6006 and they do work reasonably well. I'd recommend starting with an LX 20 in a 3" jar and adjusting up or down from there. You should be able to wick most any FO in a 3" container with sizes LX 18 - LX 22. Don't forget LX 21, which isn't as widely available as the other sizes, but it's nice to have in your wick arsenal. I prefer Eco wicks in 6006, but they are not as forgiving as some of the other types. Being just one size off can be ugly, so they can be tricky, but they self trim pretty well and usually 1 or 2 sizes are all I need to wick any FO. CD, HTP and zinc also work reasonably well once you land on the correct sizes.

No, never. Unless it's just too big and then I see wisps of smoke coming off the wick almost immediately. If that's the case, I just snuff it out and wick down. Try Eco 1.

IDK, they work great for me and several other makers I communicate with. There are just so many variables to consider....FO load, dye, cure time, etc. I use 6% FO, small amount of dye and cure 2 weeks. Also, if you are using diameter measurements, measure the jar at the smallest diameter. For example, a mason jar...measure the jar opening, rather than the widest part of the jar. The neck makes a big difference. If you can't make it work, try another wick type. Most types work reasonably well in 6006 once you land on the correct sizes....CD, LX, HTP, zinc, etc.

Yes I have. I don't have any problems w/dye requiring a larger wick, but I only use a couple of drops per pound. If you are using a lot, it could be a factor. I'm not sure about dye chips. I don't use those. FO & cure time is always the biggest factor for me.