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Found 48 results

  1. Hi everyone! I just started my candle making journey and was wondering if any of you could help me with the issues I've had so far and for which I couldn't find an answer on the interwebs. I've used Kerasoy container blend wax for my first batch of candles, have made 3 different scents using essential oils and have used TRC pre-wax wicks of 2 different sizes. I let the candles cure for 48 hours as recommended for Kerasoy wax and notices straight away that the candles were all solidifying with a raised bump around the wick. Not a hole or a crack as I read in many 'soy candle problems' posts, just a little 'mountain' formed around the week. After the 48 hours I lit up the first candle and straight away the surfaced cracked around the week and bubbles kept coming out of it. The candle has been burning for 30mins now, there is definitely a crack but the bubbles have stopped and there is no tunneling so far (I think). Could any more-experienced candle makers help me figure out what I've done wrong and how to avoid it? Many thanks!
  2. So I am now to this forum and I apologize in advance if I've not posted in the correct place. I am using igi 6006 parasoy wax by itself (I haven't added any extra soy like many do.) I use 8.5% FO added at 185•, and I pour at 170•. I let them cure 24hrs before my burn test. I am using 3.1" diameter jars with 8 ounces of wax in each. So far I've tested 6 different wicks. I've tried the eco 8 & eco 10 first. They both produced insane amounts of soot and the flames were flickering almost nonstop. I've tried the eco 6, LX 22, CSN 14, and a medium zinc wick. The photos are after an 8 hour burn. I burned for four, blew them out then relight. I took these just before blowing them out. The csn 14 is probably my favorite, but I can't quite tell yet. The burn pool doesn't seem like it's going to be large enough. When lit, the flame is very still and doesn't flicker much at all. The only downside is if any wind comes around the flame, it smokes like crazy The eco 6 burns beautifully, but the burn pool seems too small. The 8 is the night size up and that was too large, so I have no clue where to go from there with the eco wicks. I like the LX 22, but I'm not sure if the melt pool will be large enough and the flame sometimes dances. The medium zinc obviously wont work. The flame is very weak and the melt pool is only about 2". The other question I have is about different FOs needing different wicks. Do I really have to test each FO to find a specific wick for each one? It just seems like that would cost a few grand and be VERY time consuming. (Say I want to test 30 FOs. I'd need 30 jars. I'd have to have multiple wicks of each size and each brand. The amount of wax this would take would be enormous.) thank you in advance!
  3. Thanks to @TallTayl, I have been working on getting each of my pint wide-mouth canning jars wicked with acceptable hangup, little or no mushrooms, warm/not hot jar, and good hot throw. I am using Premier wicks and C-1 wax (which I thought people were saying needed to be wicked up; I could be wrong). Anyway, I now am making test candles with some ok hangup, no full melt pool right away, good hot throw. With some fragrances, I have wicked down 3 wick sizes, but still thinking I could go down another size. My question is, is there a point where the wick size used becomes too small and affects the hot throw? Hope I explained this right. GoldieMN
  4. I'm getting sooo close, but still going through newbie speed bumps. A few things, I've finally settled on some great 3" straight sided tumblers. I use coconut/soy 83 wax and stick with an 8% fragrance load. So I'ved tried several wicks and I've decided the KISS* method. Given some good recommendations. I'm deciding between ECO and CD cotton wicks. Some of the issues I'm having are: With the ECO Sooting and smoking - more towards at the end of the burn (around 20th hour). This may have been due too big of a size 12, 10, 8. Size 8 seemed to be best but, tunneled at beginning 3-9 hour burns (although evened out towards the end). Nice flame size. Great hot throw. With the CD Mushrooms, flickering, tunneling. I'm at the beginning, of the burn phases hours 3 -6. Nice Flame size. Sizes I'm using are 10, 12, 14. The mushrooms were worse during the first burn. Flickering is worse at second burn, slight tunneling still an issue with 10 -12 sizes, flickering and mushroom worse with 14 . Great hot throw. So, I'm wondering if I should drop the fragrance load to 7% if this may help. Since I getting conflicting issues. Any thoughts? Thanks !!!
  5. Hello everybody, I just came across this forum and I‘m so glad! Hoping ya‘ll would be so kind to help me with an issue I have been having. The wax I‘m using is a coco and rapeseed blend (RCX if somebody is familiar), it‘s been working great (just had to get used to the irregular, bumpy surface after burning the candle, which I have been told is normal for vegetable waxes? -please correct me if I‘m wrong, I was only familiar with burning paraffin waxes prior) The scent throw is great both hot and cold, melt pool diameter and depth is good, minimal to no mushrooming when using the right wick size, nice safe flame height, no tunneling, no sooting or smoking, acceptable amount of after glow when the candle is extinguished, the burning temperature is good, everything is great- except for the dreaded, god awful FLICKERING. I‘ve tried different types of wicks suggested by the manufacturer with CL being most recommend, VRL and V wicks, in all different sizes to optimize burn qualities, different fragrances and FO percentages (6%, 8%, 10%) and the issue of flickering still arises every time. However I noticed, that this starts when the candle has burned about halfway through the container, so when it‘s still pretty full, flickering isn‘t an issue, but when it‘s ‚emptied‘ more is when the flickering becomes a problem. I was thinking that it might be due to the containers I‘m using, could that be a possibility? That there isn‘t enough oxygen feeding the flame and therefor the flame is flickering? I‘ve attached pictures of the jars I‘m using, maybe the opening isn’t wide enough.. I would be really appreciative if anyone might have a solution for me. thank you!
  6. Hello! I am currently using GW 444 Soy Wax and I am having a hard time with wick sizes. I use mason jars that are 8 oz The ball brand regular and wide mouth. So, the diameter is 2 inches and 2.5 inches. I was curious to what size you all use for your candles? Also, I typically use 1.5 to 2 oz of FO with no dye.
  7. I recently switched from GB 464 to IGI 4630. I LOVE this wax, however I'm having a terrible time finding the right wick. I did a test burn of 6 different wicks yesterday (single wicks tested- Lx 21, Lx 22, Lx24, Lx26. Double wicks tested- Lx 12 and Lx 14) and out of those 6 only 2 came even remotely close to checking off all my boxes. Both of the double wick candles did pretty good. There was a little mushrooming and a small amout of soot coming off the wick for the first minute or two it was lit, but it had a great melt pool and the flame wasnt dancing around. I went to bed satisfied yesterday. Today I relit the LX 14, double wicked candle and it seems to be burning differently, almost like it's trying to put its self out. Is their anyone who can help me? I'm open to any and all advice.
  8. I am very new, and I am reading a ton of tutorials and articles and watching videos. My niece gave me a container she would like me to refill, I believe it is Woodwick, or Ribbonwick. I would love to do a horizontal wick, but I can't find anything even close to that, or a horizontal wick of any kind. Is there such a thing out there for candle making, or are they patented? Thank you for any responses.
  9. Help! Candle making newbie here so please excuse any ignorance!!! Made my first candle last night, long thin glass container. It's burning beautifully to start with. All the way to the edges etc. Then the flame gets smaller and smaller and gets drowned by the wax. I tried draining a little of the wax off and it burned brilliantly again for a while then the same problem. Everywhere I have looked online has only mentioned this happening when tunneling which is not the problem here. Pic attached is of when it was being made to give idea of size. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong please? Thank you in advance!!
  10. I what to check with you C3 users about which wick do you get the best hot throw from? I currently use HTP wicks but have been testing CD wicks since some people say they have better hot throw than HTP wicks. I've heard some people like to use Eco wicks with C3. Just looking for feedback as to what you have found to have the best results. I'm personally not seeing any difference between CD and HTP. Thanks in advance....
  11. Hi, I am new here and have searched all over different discussions and haven't had much success finding an answer to my issue. I am having some MAJOR trouble wicking my C3 wax. I've used almost every single wick there is and still don't know what wick I should be using for this wax. I love C3 and the scent throw it provides, but all of my candles aren't reaching full melt pool. Details of everything are below. Containers: 3" diameter x 3.75" tall Fragrance Load: 6% Pour Temp: 160 degrees I have tried the following wicks: HTP 104, 105, 126 and 1212. Premier 765-795 CD 16-22 ECO 12-16 None of these reached full melt pool and some immediately started tunneling. The HTP 1212 was recommended to me for my container size and wax type, but the flame dances and flickers like crazy (no draft or anything near by) and still tunneled a little bit. I understand that C3 is a slow burning wax, but is it that difficult to wick? I spent so much time and money on wicks, wax and fragrance and am getting discouraged at this point. I always let my candles sit for at least 72 hours before I test burn. Any recommendations or help would be much appreciated!
  12. Good evening all, This is my first post but I have been lurking for a very long time and have successfully managed to find an answer for every question I have had so far...until now! I have been wick testing a new jar. I am using C3 wax in a 6oz jam (jelly) jar with a 6% FO load. The jar is a 60mm (2.36") straight sided, round jar and doesn't dip in at the neck. I am using the TCR wick series and I am happy with my with my wick choice after lots of testing. The question that I have is this.... I have got my wick tests down to two wicks. The smaller wick (TCR 24/14) burns nicely, great melt pool and a pretty good HT The larger wick (TCR 27/16) burns nicely, great melt pool and an amazing HT. I have no sooting with either size. The only concern I have with the larger wick is that the jar can get quite hot towards the end of the candle. I can hold the jar for a good few seconds without problem, but it does feel hot. It is not as hot as holding a fresh cup of tea/coffee though. Does this sound ok or is it likely to be too hot? I would like to go with the larger wick, especially in bakery type scents, as the HT is much better. With the larger wick I can smell the HT out of the bathroom, down the stairs and into the open plan kitchen. With the smaller wick, I can get a fairly good scent in my bathroom but not any further. Safety is paramount though so I don't want to use use larger wick if my test results suggest they are too hot? Any advice would be most welcomed. Viki
  13. Hi i make container candles with soy and bees wax wanted suggestions for the best wax to be used to prime the wick should i use pure beeswax only or the blend of the container candle i am using itself to prime the wick i want to avoid paraffin for priming thanks
  14. So I've decided to branch out with some new containers that I'd like to debut for the fall/holiday season. I have diligently been testing 9 oz and 16 oz straight sided amber jars as well as 16 oz amber Ball wide mouth jars....all of these have been relatively straight forward for wick choices. The one that's causing me to pull my hair out is this 12 oz straight sided mason. I'm not used to wicking a taller container so I'm now discovering the different stages of burning as it gets further down in the jar. I'm using 6006 and I started with a CD 6, I didn't like the way it looked like it was headed for tunneling. I then switched to an 8 and that seemed to be on the same path. I moved to a CD 10 and that looked good until it burned down about 1/3 of the way and then became far too hot. I'm back down to a CD 6 as shown in my photo and even that seems pretty warm and the flame is large. Any suggestions on where to go from here? BTW, yes I trim my wicks in between each 3 hour burn. These are indeed a tough jar to figure out
  15. Hi everyone, new candle maker here! I would love to get your opinions on wax's and wick's. I've read through a lot of the forums already and can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for. Basically I'd love to stay away from Paraffin if possible but soy is not giving me the hot throw I'd like. With my brand I do want to strive for a very good hot throw. Can you please let me know what wax and wick combo you've found best for a mostly natural, great hot throw candle? I'm using 8oz, straight sided, glass jars with my candles. Thank you!
  16. Hey everyone, hope you are all doing well. I have been working away from soy a bit and going to a coconut base. I know there are a ton of people on here experimenting with other waxes than soy. I just wanted to get an idea of what your findings are if you are willing to share! The other day I ordered the Naturewax Coconut 2..coconut 98%, soy 2%. -Obviously, they are a bit soft after they set for a day. What's the type of wax and % are you using to harden the wax. Is it affecting your HT? -I used eco 4,6,8 and some very small wooden wicks to test. Seeing as coconut takes a couple days to set, I have not burned them yet. What wicks have you found work with your cocosoy blends? -My jars I have them in are the 4oz and 9oz amber jars from Fillmore Containers As a sidenote- I ordered the coffeehouse and toasted marshmellow FO from RE and hollllllllllly moley am I excited to use those, maybe even blend them????
  17. So I am fairly new to candle making. I’ve been trying at it for the past 6 months and of course like everyone else, the frustration has set in. I am currently using 4oz and 8oz tin containers and using c3 wax. My struggle is figuring out what size/type of wick I should use for my candles. I am not getting a strong hot scent throw. The current fragrances that I have been using come from Justscents.com. I am currently testing different wicks to see what would work best. I purchased sample wicks packets with all different sizes of wicks. Some of the ones that I have are Premier, HTP, CD and ECO. Does anyone have any suggestions on the type of wick I should use and size based on the information I provided? If you need any any other information please let me now so I can provide. Any assistance will be great appreciated! Picture below is me testing the HTP 93 m wick. I let it burn for about 2 hours.
  18. Hi everyone, i was wondering if anyone uses a belly vessel 4.5" top W 5" bottom W I use coconut wax and eco wicks? I was thinking ECO 6?? any suggestion??
  19. I've been testing my smallest Premier wicks and am at the 710. If I remember correctly, there is 1.5 oz of wax in the jar. Burned for 4 hours, yesterday; relit and now (photos) at 2 hours today. I can pick the jar up around the middle but the top rim is a bit hot. Flame is a nice small size but hasn't been drowned out by the wax; melt pool about 1/4-3/8". The wax was pretty soft as I just remelted an old, cured 464 votive so I probably won't get as many hours out of this as I would have had the wax been hardened for more than a day. The pictures are of the jar at the 2-hour point, second-day burn. My question is, do most glass votives or small jars like this usually get hot no matter what wick is used? This is the smallest wick of any kind I have so hoping I won't have to order another brand. Goldie
  20. So I've been making candles for a while now, And I've never has any problems with my wicks, until this happened. Customer wants to know what's causing it and I have no clue. At first I thought it was an extreme case of mushrooming, but after getting the pictures I'm not so sure. any ideas?
  21. Any golden wax 464 soy users that can offer me any insight on which wick types to use? I'm using 9oz glass jars. Started with ECO wicks as recommended by Candle Science but have had no luck with them. Just tried RRD for the first time and they’re mushrooming horribly in all sizes tested. I’m so new to this, any suggestions would be SO appreciated!!! Please please please.
  22. I really need some advice. I've been testing the LX series wicks and they are by far my favorite wick in the wax I use. Here's my dilemma : I've done my research on wicks for hours. Like most wicks, (not all) The LX wick sizes go up in number for larger diameter candles. I've tested almost all of the sizes in the LX Series. I'm wondering why, though, they don't have a bigger melt pool with larger sizes. The LX 18 has a larger pool than the LX 20. The LX 18 had a dancing flame and a ton of mushrooming, but not a lot of soot. the LX 20 had a decent melt pool and limited mushrooming. I haven't seen it soot. I dont understand how the LX18 got so much larger and soot-ier than the LX20. Thank you all all very much.
  23. I have tested several wicks and many didn't even come close to the edge of the jars. Can I remelt these and reuse the wax or does remelting them burn off the fragrance oil?
  24. I've got yet another wick question. So, I'm testing more wicks and I'm back with more questions. I've read that you should get a full burn pool with the first burn. I've also read that getting a full burn pool with the first burn is a bad thing. I'm not sure which one to go by. The wicks I'm testing aren't giving me a full burn pool at all, but when they get further down in the jar they are melting off the excess wax on the sides. Thanks again in advance! i will post pictures when I get further into my test.
  25. Quick question about FO and wicks/wax. Ive tried a CSN14 in IGI 6006(parasoy) and have found that it burns really well other than a few things. It mushrooms and soots a bit a bit but also tunnels. I know that too small of a wick can cause the tunneling but I've read that soot and mushrooming identifies too large a wick. I am using 8.5% FO (as IGI 6006 says 10% is max). My question is, if I lower my FO % will this decrease the sooting and mushrooming? Also, will my HT be greatly affected? I'm not sure how much lower to go but I was considering trying 7.5%-8%. Ive ordered a size up just to see the difference and will be trying them this weekend. thank you!
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