bfroberts

That post was completely uncalled for. What’s the big deal about a review anyway? They are strictly subjective anyway.

I admit I was kinda surprised they jumped on this particular bandwagon.

All I can tell you is that BA purchased Natures Oil several years ago.

You’d think. Plus so much better for morale. 🤷‍♀️

The FB groups irritate me so I joined a couple of “professional candle maker” groups. They aren’t much better. An unbelievable amount of “why did my candle do this?” questions regarding excessive soot, broken containers, tunneling, etc. My favorite comments are the “I am too busy for all that testing” when asked if they tested a new case/FO/wick/whatever. That one is especially fun when combined with “why did my candle do this?”

You really can’t judge the oils OOB. I have some that are light OOB but powerhouse performers and vice versa. As for the wax, it may be fine. 4630 can vary in hardness, opacity and color from batch to batch without any notable performance issues. I imagine it can be the same for 4633. Good luck!

Overall, yes, it has a comparable throw IME. It does benefit from curing. Some scents I’ve used just don’t reach their full potential immediately.

4630 throws most anything really. Blueberry and cranberry scents seem to be especially strong to my nose. Also reliable are coffee scents, resins, herbs, most pines and like TT mentioned, cologne scents.

In my opinion, because you have no way of knowing how a customer will use or abuse a candle and burning conditions are widely variable, using flammable materials in, on or around a candle just does not make sense.

We are located at a major ATV riding area. We have a general store and we sell ATV parts & do repairs, so you can imagine the dirt that comes in. I can't tell you how many times I have taken all my candles out of the store and said I will no longer sell candles in that space. Most recently a group of unsupervised kids took the lids off every candle, passed them around, switched the lids, and left them grubby. They didn't buy a thing. I have tried to combat this by displaying clearly marked samples, stocking only 1-2 of each scent and storing the inventory out of reach, but I still lose too much product from dirty handling. So many people have no self-awareness, no respect, no manners, no good common sense and refuse to recognize boundaries. I have no answers for you, just loads of commiseration. Retail is challenging.

I have Scentsy warmers and I don’t have any problem getting them to melt higher MP waxes. Maybe if it’s directly under an a/c vent some unmelted wax will cling to the edge but it’s minor. Maybe the newer warmers are different??? I really don’t know. I just make what I want to make and no one has ever complained.

Dough bowls aren't a good idea. It doesn't make sense to make candles in flammable containers, fire retardant or no. Those mini loaf pans are great though, at least the ones from Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc., because they are actually oven safe for baking.

I wish I knew. I think it's partly that, but I'm not sure that's the only factor. The softer waxes seem to be so viscous that the fuel just don't travel up the wick very efficiently Also, the harder paraffins don't require all the wick adjustments for different FO's that softer waxes do. With mottling wax, I can wick pretty much any FO in any specific container with the exact same wick. The harder waxes burn significantly cleaner too.

It'll depend on the paraffin you are using. The harder paraffins typically need a smaller wick than the softer paraffins like 4630, 4627, etc. I'd say you are right on track starting your testing with 51z. IIRC, with 4630 I typically had to use 60z or sometimes even 62z depending on the FO. The harder waxes like mottling wax work great with a smaller wick.

We have both, but for most labels we use a color laser printer. I went this route so I can utilize polyester weatherproof labels for their durability. There are varying degrees of print quality depending on the printer, but most new models should be acceptable. I've been pleased with the one we have...it's an HP Color Laserjet Pro. The print quality is better than the previous Brother laser printer we had. Once you get over the initial investment, laser is vastly more efficient.

You can make great melts with soy without high FO loads. Try adding your FO at higher temp.

You really don't need that much FO to get a good throw. Adding FO at lower than recommended temps can create problems. Heat the wax to the recommended 185˚, add FO, stir 2 minutes or so and pour at the recommended pour temp. Cure for a while and then test. If you still have no throw, try a different FO. I assume you are purchasing FO from a reputable supplier??? Some don't throw well in soy, some are naturally light scents and some are just duds all the way around.

Sounds like it could be an on the wrong truck...en route to the wrong hub...kind of thing. Good luck! FedEx used to be pretty reliable until they switched to contract drivers. Now there is pretty much no accountability and we just get it when they want us to have it.

We get deliveries daily from all carriers and we see that much too often lately. With FedEx it can mean that the package is irretrievably lost. Or it can mean that it was not loaded onto the truck at the hub as excepted and will be on a later truck. Or it could be that it just wasn't loaded onto the delivery van. Those contract drivers can be really lax about delivering what they are supposed to deliver for the day, and sometimes they just go home without delivering everything on their truck. FedEx is really a pain. Customer service can never give you a definitive answer, unless they can blame it on inclement weather...and they'll do that if there's a wisp of cloud in the sky. We always just have to wait and see. Sometimes the company that shipped it will go ahead and send a replacement out and just ask you to refuse delivery or return the original if it arrives, but that's pretty rare for us.

I use the cotton ball method to remove from my warmers so that part isn't a concern. But I do use clamshells and it is important to me - a solid 5 - that they break and release from the clam cleanly. I despise soft sticky melts.

Soy continues to harden over time, so test burning after just a day or two can really skew your results. That could definitely be a factor in your tunneling right there. I would cure longer (I do 2 weeks) before making a determination. I really do think the XL100 is way too big.

I have not used that particular wax, but that's a honker of a wick and may even be too large. When you say "tunneling" do you mean an actual tunnel burning straight down the center or just a bit wax left on the sides of the jar after the first couple of burns? How long are you curing before burning? Take this with a grain of salt: Based on other soy waxes I've used, I'd recommend possibly larger Eco wicks - maybe Eco 16 or possibly larger CD's - starting with CD 20 and then adjusting up or down from those sizes. Or CDN if those are more readily available to you.

Hi. The Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for 6006. Additionally, they offer wick suggestions for 6006 on the product page for the containers they sell. Test the recommended size, plus one size up and one size down. Burn the 3 candles side by side to compare the burns. 6006 burns a deeper, more narrow melt pool than many other waxes, so do not wick for a full melt pool until around the 3rd burn, depending on the container. Else it will be too hot at the bottom. For tins, I don't want a full melt pool until very near the end because otherwise the entire candle liquifies and gets way too hot. You really don't need more than 6% FO with 6006. Provided the candle is wicked correctly, if a scent doesn't throw at 6%, it's not usually gonna throw well at 10% either, and I consider it a dud. Also, 6006 does need to cure. Not just for throw, but for burn quality. If you burn too soon, your test results won't be accurate. It will burn better, cleaner and more efficiently if you allow it to cure a full 2 weeks. Most wick series work well in 6006. I have had great success with CD, LX, zinc, HTP and others, but Eco self trim the best for me.

I think you need a larger wick. I'd start testing with 51z.

IME w/6006, Eco 1 - possibly Eco 2 with a heavy oil - is the largest you are gonna be able to go with doubles in that jar without it getting too hot at the bottom. And they need to be fairly close together.