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Found 19 results

  1. Hi All! First of all, hope you all are doing great despite the pandemic! It's my first time here on this platform and I have a list of questions with regards to candle making, using 464 Soy Wax in hot & humid weather. I'm from Singapore and the country is located near the equator and has a typically tropical climate all year round. In addition to the tropical climate, Singapore has high humidity as well. I have been experimenting with candles for 6 months now (still experimenting) & recently decided to work with 464 due to the excellent HT, as described by the company i purchased the wax from. Through testing, I noticed the following: 1) The HT isn't great. I used 10% fragrance load & I bought the scents from Candle Science 2) The wax is extremely soft, even after curing it for 1 week 3) The wax looks horrible after each burn, leaving the top look like planet mars Measures I have taken to make my candles: 1) Given the humid weather, I turned the AC to cool the room temperature 2) I burn the wax up to 185F, add the fragrance oil immediately and then pour the wax into my container jars at 150F to obtain smooth tops 3) I add 10% pure coconut wax to help increase the HT, but i read some forum stating that coconut wax will make the wax softer than before 4) I cleaned the jars beforehand to ensure that the wax adheres to the glass (it works!) Questions: 1) Given that i live in a hot & humid weather, should i add additives such as stearic acid to make the wax a little bit harder? I heard adding stearic acid will decrease the HT Please advise if this is indeed true! 2) Do you recommend using 444 soy wax as i heard that it's a better option for summer weather? 3) Lastly, are there any methods to ensure that the 464 soy wax candle looks good after burning? Thank you in advance people & stay safe!
  2. I was just wondering if anyone makes dough bowl candle. I have tried to make them and some work and some don’t. I’m getting very frustrated. I have wasted about 15lbs of wax and tons of wicks and oils. My dough bowls are about 5inches by 8 inches. I used banana nut bread and hot hot apple pie from Candle Science and they work great! When I tried Love Spell from Candle Science and Clean Cotton from Lonestar, nothing, no hot throw what so ever! Please Help!!! I have tried eco wicks ranging from eco 14 all the down to eco 8. The eco 14 works the best as far as melt pool. I have also tried hpt wicks 93 and 83. I have also tried zinc wicks. I have all these wicks with Cbl 125 wax and IGI 6006 wax and getting no hot throw with these two scents. I use 3 wicks in each candle and tried different pouring temps and fo adding temps and still nothing. I don’t use any dyes and even tried wrapping them with plastic wrap to keep in the scent because dough bowels don’t have lids. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I’m about to give up. Thank you.
  3. Im going crazy and i have no idea what to do anymore, ive been testing a LOT with this wax in my 3" jars. Ive tried to single wick it with LX, ECO, CD, VRL, V, but non of them can give a melt pool that works. Ive started testing with double wicks but honestly i have no idea if the jar is considered to hot, after getting further down the jar (more than half way) that's when it gets really hot, but is that normal? im only using 6% FO. im really hoping you guys can give me some advise! when i double wick the jar i also get an amazing hot throw. but im guessing thats because of the single wick not being able to preform probably. im located in the EU so i cant buy HTP wicks ATM. what do you guys think about double wicking a 3" jar? also what wick burns cooler than eco? the ECO burns great with my wax and FO but ive found that double eco burns a tiny bit too hot (im guessing) :)
  4. Hi. I have made a candle that looks like the attached picture . Dont know how to describe it. Why is that ?. I have used paraffin wax with color and the end results were disappointing.
  5. My husband has rendered goat fat for years which I used to make soap and lotions for our own use. We sold our goats a few years back, and we are now using beef tallow. We have also rendered beef tallow in the past. Yesterday we rendered a little over 100 pounds of beef fat from our home raised beef. He weighed 1,130 pounds hanging (he was a big guy and we had let him get too fat, but the meat is wonderful.) We had the butcher save all the fat and bones from our beef. We ground the fat first then using heavy bottom pans, we cooked it on low on the stove top and at 200 degrees in the oven for about 8 hours. We stirred the fat occasionally. We do not add water. Slow and low wins the race with tallow! No bad smell and no burning. We then strained it through flour sack dish towels and a strainer. Since the tallow is a little soft, we will process it a longer today and restrain it. When we warmed it up this morning you could see some moisture. I made a candle with the soft tallow and added a tiny bit of oatmeal honey fragrance. I started burning the 8 ounce candle at 7 a.m. yesterday morning and blew it out at about 8:30 last evening. I attached a picture of it just after I lit the candle this morning. As you can see, the half pint candle still has a lot of life in it. I would like the tallow to be more firm. Does anyone have any suggestions on measurements using stearic acid or alum to firm up the tallow? Or does anyone have any other solutions for soft tallow?
  6. Does any one know what happened to tri state candle making supply company?Did they move or shut down? I can't find any thing on them.The phone rings busy!The web says you do not have permission to enter this site!Thanks
  7. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  8. Hi. I couldn't find anything on this topic. I know triple pressed palm stearic acid is more refined or pure so I imagine it's mainly for use with Bath & Body products rather than candles. Does anybody know if their is an advantage to using the triple pressed palm stearic acid in candles instead of the regular or double pressed palm stearic acid? Like any issues with wick clogging if you don't use triple pressed or etc? Just curious about other's experience with stearic acid. I recently started doing a few tests with both stearic acids at the same percentage in some container candles and so far I can't tell any difference.
  9. I'm new to candle making and am trying to understand the flashpoint for fragrance oils. I understand that the flashpoint is the temperature at which the fragrance will ignite if met with an open flame. This might be a stupid questions but can this potentially cause a fire hazard within the candles? Secondly, I've read varying accounts of when to add the fragrance oils. I've seen that the flashpoint doesn't matter when adding the fragrance to your wax but also that some people use it as a guideline for when to add their fragrance oils. Lastly, in regards to shipping. I've seen that certain fragrances cannot be shipped via air because of their flashpoint. Does this apply to shipping finished candles?
  10. I’m lookin at turning the back end of my garage into my little candle making workshop, so I’m looking for opinions! I’m stuck on heating sources though. Should I just buy an electric hot plate or two, or should I go ahead and buy that Coleman gas camping stove and hook up a propane tank? What do people like to use as a heat source? Is one any better than the other?
  11. Im searching for the perfect black coffee fragrance! I want something not super sugary or caramel like all the other coffee scents out there that I’ve found. Opinions? Also when it comes to mixing or measuring fragrance oils, what does everyone use? I’ve read to only use glass or disposable wax cups... but I’m having quite the time finding those (unless I order them) and is it ok to wash the left over fragrance oil out of a glass bowl or cup down the drain...? (Maybe that makes me sound over paranoid, but I have no idea! I’ve heard washing essential oils is a bad idea.. I didn’t know if it was the same thing. )
  12. I am at the moment using EL Millennium wax, and while I do like it so far I’ve been thinking about checking out other waxes as well to find what one works best. I’ve been looking into Golden Brands 415, 444, and nature’s wax C-3. I've heard too many bad things about GB 464. Which do you find better if you’ve had experience with using it (as far as cold/hot throw and nice finished candle tops)? And which are good about shipping to different climates? (I’ve actually read that the 415 can just start melting if it goes into really subtle warm weather temps.. which I think would cause some issues in the future. :/) Thank you in advance!!
  13. Hello! As it says in the subject I am brand new at candle making but already so in love with it and soaking in all the knowledge I can (so any help would be so very appreciated!) my apologies if I put this all in the wrong place or anything. Ive read numerous times that to fix imperfections on the tops of your soy candles you can use left over wax from the pot after pouring. Since the candles do take awhile to dry, how do I reheat the wax left over in the pot without burning off all fragrance so that I can cover up holes? Do I just leave the left over in the pot while they cool and start it warming again..? Also after doing a wick test with one batch of candles to find the right wick for a container/fragrance do I have to do that every time I make a new batch? (Ie: if I mixed supplies today and did a test with three containers/wicks/1 fragrance and found the right one after the correct burn time, the next time I buy that same 1 fragrance/wick/container to actually make the candles, do I need to test it again or can I just make it with the specifications I found work best from the first test and leave it at that?) I have gotten SO MANY different opinions on this, you wouldn’t believe. Besides maybe leaving the wick too long, too much fragrance, or using an unsafe container- is there absolutely anything that could accidentally happen that would make a candle you made dangerous to a consumer? I’m obviously just starting out but would love the opportunity to turn it into a business later on down the road after I get much more experience and I guess I’m just paranoid that maybe there’s things I don’t know that could go horribly wrong? (I do have my warning labels ready and have been reading plenty of safety regulations.. but still.) And FINALLY for the last question: I know the depth of the burn pool is as important as the width... but I am starting off with 8 oz tins. How could I go about seeing how deep the melt pool is without being able to see the sides? Do I want it to touch the edges in the first burn? How deep do you believe the depth should be in each burn? Apologies if these questions are all very “newbie-ish” but that’s just what I am, haha. And I’m sorry to put so many but I need so badly to have people to talk to about this as I’ve been doing SO much research on my own but sometimes it just helps more to get personal help!
  14. Hello, I have been experimenting with candles for awhile now, but have not had the best of luck. Trial & error is a part of the growing/learning process. Classes online don’t really help with the different flash points, wax mix ratios, wicks, oil/fragrance mixes etc. I have reached out to several people, but not one reply in over a year :/. No classes here in the valley, and some 1 hour beginner classes in Los Angeles. I currently live in Phoenix, AZ, but would come out to someone who was willing help me learn/achieve my goals. I have the resources to make weekly or monthly trips if warranted. Just finished college with a 4.1 GPA & was going to go to law school, but changed my mind. Spent months in the hospital fighting for my life in mid 2016, and then lost my mother to a medical accident in the beginning of 2017. Those life events drastically changed the course I was headed. Life is very precious, and candle making is a desire/dream I wish to fulfill. I apologize for this long winded synopsis into my life, but wanted to give a sense of where I was coming from. FYI- I seem to like ambitious scents like Neroli, Jasmine, Oud, tuberose, orange blossom, powdery fig, certain fragrant woods, geranium, bergamot, and more. Obviously you can see I love my citrus. Thank you for your consideration!!
  15. I'm very much a beginner when it comes to candle-making and I'm hoping of selling them on Etsy once I'm happy with them but I can't get past the wet spots in my candles despite their scent-throw being fab. I've tried nearly all day today to create a candle that doesn't have any wet spots and for the life of me I can't and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've made sure my containers are super clean, I've tried pouring at lower temperatures, higher temperatures, with less scent, I've even left them in different rooms to set and nothing seems to make an ounce of difference. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and these little patches are driving me crazy. Are these wet spots just a natural part of candle-making and completely unavoidable? Do your customers care or even notice? Any advice or hints and tips would be greatly appreciated. Love always xo
  16. Whats better? I am trying to get the STRONGEST smelling candles possible. Parrafin is bad for the enviorment so I can't go there. Soy in my opinion sucks. I have beeswax. I have a 3.25" candle with vybar and 1 fragrance oil of campfire scent. It smells good and if i am near it I can smell it a bit and if I walk into the room I smell it the most..but I want candles that smell strong in general no matter where I am in my room. I am reading about coconut wax and supposedly they are great for scent throw. This site says beeswax can "trap" scent, is this true? Is coconut wax the way to go?
  17. Trying to make do with limited space, I find myself dreaming of the perfect candle making work area, but unsure what that might really be like. Do any of you have that dream workspace? What's it like? Wire shelving on the walls, a work bench & storage bins? A shelf of Presto pots? If you don't have your dream work space yet, how would you design it if money and lack of space were no object?
  18. Danielle and Co as they are called. Are they even still around. I haven't really even bothered looking yet. Some of their steps in the candle making process are a bit sloppy for me. What do you guys think of this video?
  19. Saw this video on you tube and it was a segment on HSN with this lady selling a contraption to take your old pillar candles and making new ones. Was ROTFLMAO! Here's the link y'all if you want to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvEww-seb8U&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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