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Found 12 results

  1. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  2. Does any one know what happened to tri state candle making supply company?Did they move or shut down? I can't find any thing on them.The phone rings busy!The web says you do not have permission to enter this site!Thanks
  3. Hi. I couldn't find anything on this topic. I know triple pressed palm stearic acid is more refined or pure so I imagine it's mainly for use with Bath & Body products rather than candles. Does anybody know if their is an advantage to using the triple pressed palm stearic acid in candles instead of the regular or double pressed palm stearic acid? Like any issues with wick clogging if you don't use triple pressed or etc? Just curious about other's experience with stearic acid. I recently started doing a few tests with both stearic acids at the same percentage in some container candles and so far I can't tell any difference.
  4. I'm new to candle making and am trying to understand the flashpoint for fragrance oils. I understand that the flashpoint is the temperature at which the fragrance will ignite if met with an open flame. This might be a stupid questions but can this potentially cause a fire hazard within the candles? Secondly, I've read varying accounts of when to add the fragrance oils. I've seen that the flashpoint doesn't matter when adding the fragrance to your wax but also that some people use it as a guideline for when to add their fragrance oils. Lastly, in regards to shipping. I've seen that certain fragrances cannot be shipped via air because of their flashpoint. Does this apply to shipping finished candles?
  5. I’m lookin at turning the back end of my garage into my little candle making workshop, so I’m looking for opinions! I’m stuck on heating sources though. Should I just buy an electric hot plate or two, or should I go ahead and buy that Coleman gas camping stove and hook up a propane tank? What do people like to use as a heat source? Is one any better than the other?
  6. Im searching for the perfect black coffee fragrance! I want something not super sugary or caramel like all the other coffee scents out there that I’ve found. Opinions? Also when it comes to mixing or measuring fragrance oils, what does everyone use? I’ve read to only use glass or disposable wax cups... but I’m having quite the time finding those (unless I order them) and is it ok to wash the left over fragrance oil out of a glass bowl or cup down the drain...? (Maybe that makes me sound over paranoid, but I have no idea! I’ve heard washing essential oils is a bad idea.. I didn’t know if it was the same thing. )
  7. I am at the moment using EL Millennium wax, and while I do like it so far I’ve been thinking about checking out other waxes as well to find what one works best. I’ve been looking into Golden Brands 415, 444, and nature’s wax C-3. I've heard too many bad things about GB 464. Which do you find better if you’ve had experience with using it (as far as cold/hot throw and nice finished candle tops)? And which are good about shipping to different climates? (I’ve actually read that the 415 can just start melting if it goes into really subtle warm weather temps.. which I think would cause some issues in the future. :/) Thank you in advance!!
  8. Hello! As it says in the subject I am brand new at candle making but already so in love with it and soaking in all the knowledge I can (so any help would be so very appreciated!) my apologies if I put this all in the wrong place or anything. Ive read numerous times that to fix imperfections on the tops of your soy candles you can use left over wax from the pot after pouring. Since the candles do take awhile to dry, how do I reheat the wax left over in the pot without burning off all fragrance so that I can cover up holes? Do I just leave the left over in the pot while they cool and start it warming again..? Also after doing a wick test with one batch of candles to find the right wick for a container/fragrance do I have to do that every time I make a new batch? (Ie: if I mixed supplies today and did a test with three containers/wicks/1 fragrance and found the right one after the correct burn time, the next time I buy that same 1 fragrance/wick/container to actually make the candles, do I need to test it again or can I just make it with the specifications I found work best from the first test and leave it at that?) I have gotten SO MANY different opinions on this, you wouldn’t believe. Besides maybe leaving the wick too long, too much fragrance, or using an unsafe container- is there absolutely anything that could accidentally happen that would make a candle you made dangerous to a consumer? I’m obviously just starting out but would love the opportunity to turn it into a business later on down the road after I get much more experience and I guess I’m just paranoid that maybe there’s things I don’t know that could go horribly wrong? (I do have my warning labels ready and have been reading plenty of safety regulations.. but still.) And FINALLY for the last question: I know the depth of the burn pool is as important as the width... but I am starting off with 8 oz tins. How could I go about seeing how deep the melt pool is without being able to see the sides? Do I want it to touch the edges in the first burn? How deep do you believe the depth should be in each burn? Apologies if these questions are all very “newbie-ish” but that’s just what I am, haha. And I’m sorry to put so many but I need so badly to have people to talk to about this as I’ve been doing SO much research on my own but sometimes it just helps more to get personal help!
  9. Hello, I have been experimenting with candles for awhile now, but have not had the best of luck. Trial & error is a part of the growing/learning process. Classes online don’t really help with the different flash points, wax mix ratios, wicks, oil/fragrance mixes etc. I have reached out to several people, but not one reply in over a year :/. No classes here in the valley, and some 1 hour beginner classes in Los Angeles. I currently live in Phoenix, AZ, but would come out to someone who was willing help me learn/achieve my goals. I have the resources to make weekly or monthly trips if warranted. Just finished college with a 4.1 GPA & was going to go to law school, but changed my mind. Spent months in the hospital fighting for my life in mid 2016, and then lost my mother to a medical accident in the beginning of 2017. Those life events drastically changed the course I was headed. Life is very precious, and candle making is a desire/dream I wish to fulfill. I apologize for this long winded synopsis into my life, but wanted to give a sense of where I was coming from. FYI- I seem to like ambitious scents like Neroli, Jasmine, Oud, tuberose, orange blossom, powdery fig, certain fragrant woods, geranium, bergamot, and more. Obviously you can see I love my citrus. Thank you for your consideration!!
  10. I'm very much a beginner when it comes to candle-making and I'm hoping of selling them on Etsy once I'm happy with them but I can't get past the wet spots in my candles despite their scent-throw being fab. I've tried nearly all day today to create a candle that doesn't have any wet spots and for the life of me I can't and I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I've made sure my containers are super clean, I've tried pouring at lower temperatures, higher temperatures, with less scent, I've even left them in different rooms to set and nothing seems to make an ounce of difference. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and these little patches are driving me crazy. Are these wet spots just a natural part of candle-making and completely unavoidable? Do your customers care or even notice? Any advice or hints and tips would be greatly appreciated. Love always xo
  11. Whats better? I am trying to get the STRONGEST smelling candles possible. Parrafin is bad for the enviorment so I can't go there. Soy in my opinion sucks. I have beeswax. I have a 3.25" candle with vybar and 1 fragrance oil of campfire scent. It smells good and if i am near it I can smell it a bit and if I walk into the room I smell it the most..but I want candles that smell strong in general no matter where I am in my room. I am reading about coconut wax and supposedly they are great for scent throw. This site says beeswax can "trap" scent, is this true? Is coconut wax the way to go?
  12. Trying to make do with limited space, I find myself dreaming of the perfect candle making work area, but unsure what that might really be like. Do any of you have that dream workspace? What's it like? Wire shelving on the walls, a work bench & storage bins? A shelf of Presto pots? If you don't have your dream work space yet, how would you design it if money and lack of space were no object?
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