bfroberts

I am using the same wax. It's very easy to wick and burns great. How long has the candle cured? If it hasn't cured a couple of weeks, I'd set it aside and test again after a couple of weeks.

I like Vanilla Bean Noel from WSP.

In MY experience, the wax doesn't develop moisture after I get it. It just has moisture in it when it arrives, so I deal with it then and that solves the problem.

Shoot. We live in a very humid environment. Heck, our house practically sits on the creek bank. We are forever having to figure out how to dry something! 😜

I've had moisture in wax so often (all types) that I now just open the box, cut open any plastic and allow it to dry out a while before I use it. It'll dry out pretty quickly if you run a dehumidifier or a fan in the same room. If I have to use wax before it dries out, I just heat and hold for a while before I scent and pour. Turns out just fine every single time.

I used Presto pots. I use an electric griddle to keep all my pour pots warm between pours. 6006 is prone to holes, sometimes they lurk under the surface and you don't know they are there. I use a metal skewer to poke holes all the way to the bottom of the jar and then top off with a little remaining wax to fill in all the holes. Just hold back a bit of the scented wax when you pour. I usually wait until the following day.....poke my holes, reheat the wax and top off the candles. You can also use a heat gun, but I find it much easier and more foolproof to do repours. Containers that are taller than they are wide, like 16oz mason jars, are very prone to holes and I have not found a way to prevent them. Smaller containers and wide containers are easier...you can usually prevent holes by pouring into preheated jars and insulating them to slow down the cool.

I use 6% FO for everything. I may round up to closer to 7% if the math works out better, but I never use more than that and I have never needed to. A good FO doesn't need more, and using more just wastes FO and can create wicking problems. Honestly, I wouldn't fool around with testing various percentages, but that's really up to you. 6006 does need to cure. It will burn differently when it's fresh compared to when it's cured. Most of the magic happens within the first 2 weeks. I never make a wick determination with 6006 until the candle is cured for 2 full weeks. You'll also need to test burn the candle to the end, even if it looks perfect prior to. 6006 burns with a deep but narrow melt pool. You cannot wick most containers to get a full melt pool in the first burn because it will be way too hot at the bottom. A container without a neck/shoulders should have a bit of hangup for the first couple of burns. Around the 3rd 3-4 hour test burn, you'll reach a full melt pool. With the 8oz tins, you'll need that hangup to stick around until near the end of the candle, at which time it will melt down and you'll end with a clean tin. If you get a full melt pool earlier than that, I find it to be too hot. To simplify your testing, I would buy the wick recommended by CS for your containers, plus one size up and one size down. If the recommended wick is too big, size down. Not big enough, size up. Different FO's may require a smaller or larger wick than the recommended size, although I find that very rare using Eco wicks in 6006. Some FOs will react to tins. I haven't had too much problem with that, but I don't do tins that much. The worst for me has been the cinnamon types. I probably missed some points trying to respond in between customers. If so, I apologize. I'll try to check back when things settle down here a bit. It's been a busy day

Not a formula, but the wick recommendations available from Candle Science's wick guide ARE accurate for 6006. I have found some of their recommendations for soy to be slightly big, but relatively close. I'm not sure about 444 specifically. Their Pineapple Sage is a really strong FO that is super easy to wick and will throw great at 6%. What is your process and what kind of problems are you having? There may be a simple solution. Most people carry their specific formulas pretty close to the chest, but if you'd give us some details we can help you troubleshoot.

The only supplier I've seen that carries dough bowls has a disclaimer that reads, "Not recommended for candle container use." That kinda tells the tale, I think.

There’s so much conflicting info out there it’s hard to know what’s what. Don’t feel bad. We’ve all wasted our share of product. I cleaned jars today & threw out at least 6-7# of wasted product.

The parasoy is CBL130. I'm not sure anyone is privy to the exact percentages, but it's roughly 50/50.

CBL129 is all paraffin.

CBL129 is all paraffin.

If you're in Knoxville, Aztec is local.

It does vary wildly by state, even by county in our case. We have had businesses in 2 separate states, and it is nearly impossible to get any type of business insurance in one of those. My candle business is located in the problem state (WV). I am insured through HSCG because of this.

I would not put a single candle into the hands of someone else without first being insured. It only takes one tragedy.

The Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for 4630, so check that. I'd advise you to allow the candle to cure several days before testing. I know it's gonna recommend a fairly large LX and you will have much better results if you don't rush to burn it too soon after pouring.

All I know is they have 2 different "medium" ss jars and one is slightly bigger than the other. Either way, no biggie. It's rarely exact anyway because there is always a little variance btw waxes, FOs, etc...

Sounds like you may be over-wicked, but it could really be any number of things. Need more info. What wax, wick, container are you using? How long has the candle cured, how long did you allow it to burn? Pics are helpful, if you can provide them.

Unless it's been reformulated, I always felt like MacApple from CS is pretty realistic. The Warm Apple Pie, not so much. I blended it with Apple Harvest which helped. Scent is so subjective. (I personally cannot stand Pumpkin Souffle). A lot of the fragrance oils are reminiscent of their name, but not necessarily 100% true to it. I always assumed the fragrance manufacturers just do the best they can. Besides, a fresh cut apple isn't nearly as fragrant on it's own as an apple fragrance oil needs to be. I guess that's the nature of creating something artificial to mimic something natural. As for apple pie, I always liked the one from Peak which should be available at Keystone. RE has a good one too, but they have several and I don't remember ATM which one is the one I liked. Hopefully someone else can answer this question better than my musings.

It’s already in there.

Yes. Adding more FO doesn't generally mean it will be stronger. In 6006, if an oil doesn't throw at 6-7%, it's not going to be a great performer at 10% either. Adding more just makes it soot more, weep FO, and it makes it harder to wick, IME.

6%, might round up to 7% for ease, but I never use more than that. There's really no need to.

I don't know. That was a long time ago, and I ended up not digging HTP after all. 6006 has changed a bit since then too. Other wicks work better IMO.

Eco 4 is the recommended size for your jar.