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bfroberts

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Everything posted by bfroberts

  1. Usually I get them from the Candlemaker's Store. Northstar also carries them, and I think Lonestar does too. I think they are easier to use on the sheets than the rolls.
  2. Have you tried double wicking....maybe Eco 1 or 2, or zinc 36z, or CD 4, etc. That jar is kind of on the line between what a single wick can handle and what would need doubles. Depending on the FO, dye, etc, doubles may be the best way to go.
  3. I prefer the wick stickers...I like the ones that come on sheets, not the rolls. It's quick work for me. I would imagine it's just personal preference.
  4. For a long time I thought Santa's Whiskers was the worst FO I've ever smelled. That one has been dethroned. I've had a lot of FO samples rolling through lately, and all I'm gonna say is this....if anyone ever needs something that smells like straight up stanky dirt mixed with rot that's been rolled in mold and cancer, I can hook you up.
  5. I have struggled with this. For a long time, I used wicks that burned well but didn't self trim, and I never viewed it as a problem since many commercial brands require trimming. One day my daughter, a chronic candle abuser, gave me jars from her spent candles and it was an eye opener. Lots of wick debris and soot, things I'd never seen in my candles when *I* burned them. So I went hunting for better wicks, and after a lot of testing I finally found wicks that self-trim at an acceptable level in my wax. I test every candle without trimming to make sure it is 100% safe and performs in a way I can live with under all conditions. I guess the point is, if it's safe without trimming, that's the main thing. As for aesthetics, that's a secondary concern. If it isn't safe unless the conditions are optimal, I'd be concerned. Some things that may help: wicking down, lowering your FO %, curing longer, a different wick series, etc.
  6. You won't get a full melt pool on the first burn with that jar unless you over-wick it. One of the larger zincs should work relatively well. It's not very pretty at first, but once the candle has had a week or two to cure it will burn better. You can also double wick with 2 small zinc wicks. LX wicks work well in 4630 too. The wick guide at Candle Science can give you a starting point.
  7. Eco's are a cotton wick woven with paper filament, so obviously hotter than certain other types, because cotton burns hotter than paper. I'd say they truly are among the hotter burning wicks although I have no idea how the average person would test that. Either way, definitely not a cooler wick.
  8. I'm with Gail. To my nose, Sea Witch is about as straight up 'salty sea' as it gets. Pretty darn realistic, and I live on the coast part of the year.
  9. An Eco wick will have a larger flame and larger pool diameter than most other wick types with the same rate of consumption. Whether or not "hotter" is truly the correct terminology is something I've never considered. That's just how it's commonly referred.
  10. You can heat the wax up a little higher. For most waxes, I set my Prestos to 200° and dispense into a warmed pour pot.
  11. A few things. It will burn very different w/o FO. The wick recommendations CS offers are for scented wax, not unscented. Curing with 6006 is so crucial. Nothing looks good in 6006 when it's freshly poured. It's a viscous wax and it takes a couple of weeks for it to settle in and burn well. Not sure about your experience, but from what I see a lot of people tend to over-wick with Eco. Eco's burn hot, so even over-wicking by a size or two can be ugly. But but when it's right, it is on point. Good luck.
  12. The Candle Science wick guide is accurate for 6006. Use the type & size recommended for that diameter. Cure for 2 weeks or your test results will not be accurate.
  13. Warnings and disclaimers won't prevent you from being sued.
  14. @SherylSherThat's just what that type of paraffin wax does. In the long run, it will be easier and more cost effective to just order the correct type of wax for your application. I personally like IGI4625 for things like this. It is a blended paraffin with a smooth, more opaque finish, easy to work with, and it is widely available at many online candle suppliers.
  15. Sounds like you are probably using a straight paraffin, general purpose paraffin... whichever, it's paraffin wax that "mottles" and is used to create a more rustic style pillar candle. You would need a blended (meaning w/additives) paraffin such as IGI4625 to produce a candle with a smooth finish.
  16. There are multiple types of paraffin. Do you know what kind it is? Did you purchase from a supplier, a craft store, etc?
  17. Yeah, don't add vybar. Are you allowing the candle to cure?
  18. Sounds like mottling, which is probably characteristic for the wax you are using. What wax is it?
  19. No, it doesn't discolor. I usually do a light teal with a white swirl and a white top. I have a couple of the very first bars I made summer before last, and the scent & color is still holding. I do use a little TD but no VS. I soap it cool and gel w/my eye on it. It sells pretty well for me. Not my best seller, but it is fairly popular and gets a lot of comments.
  20. Geez. That company is already dead to me, but if it weren't those terms would definitely seal that deal.
  21. I use the one from Elements. I haven't experienced any ricing but it can be a quick mover. I usually just do a simple swirl & have no problems. The scent sticks like glue though.
  22. It IS hard to wait. I'd definitely try one size down. I'm finding that it doesn't take much wick with PB600 compared to other parasoy's. I just haven't tested any tins yet.
  23. Have you used the Candle Science wick guide?? There are also wick recommendations on the product page for each container they sell, jelly jars included. Their recommendations are accurate for 6006.
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