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bfroberts

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Everything posted by bfroberts

  1. My best guess would be CD 7 or 8.
  2. I have never been able to coax a great throw from Premier wicks in any parasoy wax. Even if the burn was good, the throw just isn't there for me. I like both Eco and CD wicks with Problend 600. If the Eco 8 produced soot, I would test Eco 6. With CD's, I would start with CD 8 and go from there.
  3. I don't know how much slower they can get. They are already at snail's pace here in WV. Sloth-pace maybe. 🦥
  4. Sounds like you have a straight paraffin wax, meaning it doesn't contain any additives. Without additives, paraffin wax will mottle.
  5. I use several waxes depending on the client, but for various parasoy's I use Eco and CD mostly. For my paraffins, I use mostly LX.
  6. Generally speaking, I have no problems with vanilla scents or FO's that contain vanillin, other than the normal discoloration that comes from using the darker oils. Discoloration when burning is usually due to wick debris or a wick that is too hot IME, and it can happen regardless of vanillin.
  7. Years ago I tried refilling those using a variety of carrier oils as well as DPG, PG, room spray base and I don't remember what else. Nothing worked. I, too, abandoned the whole idea when I heard the dangers.
  8. Not really any more so than other parasoy waxes I've used with similar proportions. I do use pretty small wicks. Too big and it will inhibit the throw. I also cure all my candles a couple of weeks minimum.
  9. I use 6%-7% with excellent results.
  10. Cure time is an important consideration. If you haven’t cured at least 2 weeks I’d hold off making any wicking decisions until you’ve tested at a 2 week or longer cure time.
  11. So many oils have been reformulated, and it's never for the better. I'm sick of it. Heck, I'm getting acceleration from oils I've had for a long time that didn't accelerate before. I am obviously doing something differently or it's environmental, but it is maddening as hell to make a soap I've made many times before w/no issues and all of a sudden it's problematic. I am not a professional soaper so I know I'm the problem, but I can totally sympathize with the frustration.
  12. My mind immediately goes to a watery scent but otherwise.....Blue Raspberry, Blue Skies, Blueberry anything, Bluebonnet, Blue Hawaiian, Blue Cotton Candy, Blue Spruce, etc. I always dye my Clean Cotton candles blue, so that could work. Blue Sugar is one of my favorite candle scents, so I'd be tempted to go with that one.
  13. That sucks. I don't do that much 4630 anymore, except one account, so I'm only using about one case every 2-3 months. Based on what I've seen, 4630 has been fine. I always order from CS or Flaming.
  14. I would. I put zero faith in wax reviews. I've only ever had one issue with 4630 and in retrospect, I freaked out and made much more of it than it really was. Since then I've gotten used to some inconsistency in hardness, but a decent cure usually works out the kinks.
  15. I have a version of this scent. I'm not sure how comparable it is to the one sold by MS, but if you are interested, PM me.
  16. You'll have to experiment with your pour temp to find the optimal. I'd go up or down 5 degrees until you find the temp that gives you the best aesthetics. IIRC, 444 did better for me at a higher pour temp than the other soys waxes I've worked with, so I'd work up. Others may have a different experience. Also, I really don't think there is any need to heat your wax that high. Heat to 185, add FO, stir and pour at your desired pour temp.
  17. All fragrance oils do not wick the same. If the candle is burning too hot, the candle maker needs to try a smaller wick, or any number of other variables that can influence wicking. There is no such thing as one-size-fits-all in candle making.
  18. CD, LX, HTP, Eco, paper core, zinc....there are many that work well in 6006. With that wax, landing on the right size & a good cure is more crucial than any particular wick type. Good luck to you.
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