bfroberts

I am interested too. I have had my eye on a commercial Waring for a while. It’s too pricey. I don’t sell enough soap to justify it.

Use the wick guide on the Candle Science website. It is accurate for 6006. I think Eco 2 is recommended. You won’t get a full melt pool on the first burn, and you don’t want to. Cure several days before testing or results won’t be accurate.

You are very welcome. And welcome to the forum! This is a great place to research and learn. There’s tons of great info here. 🙂

In my experience, Eco wicks are the best choice. Try not to put much faith in what you’ve heard about this wax, because most of it is dead wrong. In a container of that size, it will not reach a full melt pool on the first burn. A full melt pool is not the goal & it is not the sign of a successful candle. If you wick hot enough to get a FMP on the first burn, it’s going to be way too hot at the bottom of the container. 10% FO is also overkill. 6006 doesn’t need that much and using such a high load leads to wicking woes. 7% is the max I’d use. The wick guide on the Candle Science website is pretty accurate for 6006. For your jar, I’d test Eco 8 and Eco 10 side by side to compare. Anything bigger than that is too big. Don’t burn too soon after pouring. The candle needs to cure at least a week, ideally 2 weeks, to get accurate results. In this instance, curing is not about the throw. It’s about the burn, and it does make a big difference in how it burns despite what you may have heard. Good luck! 🍀

Try Wholesale Supplies Plus, all the FOs, but especially the Fragrance Formulator line.

Are you using pillar or container wax?

My experience with C3 is more limited than some, but I have found that a candle that seems lackluster at first can sometimes become a real powerhouse once cured, both CT & HT. I wouldn’t judge just yet.

I have. It’s nice and strong.

Welcome 🙂

The members of this forum are very knowledgeable, encouraging and willing to help. It is not disrespectful to call out bad or false information.

I don’t use them but my best guess would be 735-740. The wax may discolor, especially if the wick is too big.

About adding soy: I really like the aesthetics and the burn of a parasoy that is around a 50/50 blend. To that end, I’d try adding 15-20% soy to get there. It will have a creamier look and better adhesion. But it will also come with it’s own set of problems. At that % of total soy there is a possibility of frosting, especially if you are using solid dyes. You’ll likely find a diminished HT with certain FOs, while others (vanillas and bakery mostly) will be richer. Colors won’t be as quite as vivid. You may also need longer cure times. The burn will change, but if the wicking is off or other factors, you will still get black soot. CT may be stronger. With 6006 alone, the jar definitely shouldn’t be black. If that’s what you’re getting, something is wrong in the system. CD wicks can work very well in 6006, but like any wick, they can cause soot if it’s too big OR too small. Is the wick self-trimming? Mushrooming? Are you using dye? If it’s heavily dyed, you might want to try one without dye to see if there is a difference. Any number of things or combination of things could be causing excessive soot. I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot.

I’ve been using this wax for a bit now and have a pretty good handle on it. HTP 104 is a pretty big wick for that jar. I’d try wicking down a couple of sizes. A wick that’s too hot can inhibit throw. In my experience, this wax can be a little finicky about FOs. Some scents I use are great in PB600, some not so much, and some need a week or two to cure. Just depends. Aztec has some good oils and some duds, just like most any other suppliers.

I have never needed anything larger than double 44-28 and that was only a time or two with super stubborn scents. Usually 36z or 44-24 gets the job done. 51 or 60 doubled is probably going to be too big. It does look pretty heavily dyed. Not sure if that creates an issue.

@ErronBI only started using them when they bought Peaks oils but I’ve been happy with them. I’ve tried a few of the non-Peak oils and they were good too. Shipping has always been reasonable and fast. The contact info is under the About Us tab. Phone & email.

Keystone has 6” 10’s in stock (100 quantity). No 6” 8’s though. Sorry.

I usually use questionable scents to make a batch of melts because even though I may not care for it, my customers may. Many times I’ve ended up loving the scent in wax even though I didn’t care for it OOB. An OOB sniff isn’t necessarily true to how the finished product will smell. This seems to be especially true in complex or higher quality oils.

And one last thing....don’t believe anything you read on FB or Reddit or watch on YouTube. 99% of it is just wrong.

Just a few thoughts... -6006 doesn’t need that much FO. 6-7% is all you need. More isn’t better and can create problems. -Heat to 185-190 and add FO. -6006 needs to cure. No matter what you might have heard, it needs to cure several days to get a good burn. -I don’t use wood wicks so I can’t speak to that. But I do know the Candle Science wick guide is pretty accurate for 6006. -If you use 6-7% FO, and use the recommended wick, and cure at least a week and still aren’t getting a good throw, the FO is probably a dud. Some just are.

They’ve always been slower than most and it can get really bad during a sale. I do use them for some things but I definitely have to plan accordingly.

Check w/Candlewic. They do customs.

I’d try a little less FO rather than more.

I’ve done tons of these. I usually place my tabs about 5mm apart. How long did you cure?

I agree....wood wicks are way too inconsistent for me to feel comfortable selling them. I have no problem getting great HT in soy with traditional wicks. I use CD primarily, sometimes Eco.

I was never satisfied with singles in that jar. Try double 36z & 44-24z or double Eco 1 & 2.