bfroberts

If you want to use 6006, it will be cheaper and easier in the long run to buy your wax and the appropriate wicks from a candle supplier, and use the wick suggestions offered by Candle Science. They are accurate for 6006, and you're testing will go a lot quicker. You still have to test each scent, or anytime you change any element in the candle, but you'll have a good starting point and will only have to make minor adjustments, if any. The blend you are making now isn't 6006 so your testing results won't convert. It takes a long time and a whole lot of money to learn to make good candles. It's not for the faint of heart, that's for sure. Good luck!

I know it's frustrating. I *think* you can still purchase the status jars from Dollar Tree stores if all else fails. I am probably going to have to change one of my containers when my current stock runs out because the price has increased substantially and they are getting harder and harder to find. We've just gotta figure out how to adapt and keep on keeping on. Good luck!

There are multiple types of both soy and paraffin waxes, and we have no idea which those craft store waxes are. All paraffins perform and wick differently, as do all soy waxes. 6006 is believed to be a soft paraffin container wax such as IGI4630 blended with a container soy such as GB464, but no one knows for sure. If you successfully wick your blend, chances are it won't wick or perform the same as 6006, and you'll have to test all over again when you purchase wax from a supplier. Of course, you can always continue to use the blend you create, but it's not generally as cost effective. As for paraffins, the ones I've seen at craft stores for containers are usually either a really hard type such as a mottling wax or a softer blend that could be any one of a number of types. I don't know which you have, but zinc wicks and RRD wicks usually work reasonably well with both, either alone or with the addition of a little soy. I'm sure there are other types that would perform OK, but it's impossible to recommend others not really knowing exactly what waxes you have.

I’d use zinc or RRD wicks, 6% FO. What’s the purpose of adding soy, if you don’t mind me asking?

Is it paraffin wax for containers or just a general purpose paraffin?

There is no “best”. If there were, everyone would be using the same thing. Try sample sizes of FO before diving in w/quantity purchases you may regret. Personally, I’ve got a lot of regrets. 😬

All I can tell you is that I haven't found a reliable correlation between any of the factors that are actually known to us...flashpoint, density, etc. Admittedly, I didn't put much research into it. Someone brought up specific gravity as a determining factor a while back and I did get interested enough to compare some of my FO's to try and find a link, and I just didn't find anything conclusive. For my waxes/FO's/container combination, the wick series seems to play the part. If I use LX, zinc or cd wicks, I may use 2-3 different sizes per container depending on the FO. Using Eco, one size pretty much always gets the job done with the need to wick up or down extremely rare.

I'm not familiar with that wax, so forgive me if I'm wrong, but.....I was thinking you need to add FO to promote mottling ??? Not sure. I only use mottling wax for containers. I use 6% FO, cool slowly and have great results.

PB600 is easier to use. It pours beautifully and has better adhesion. It does not have the throw of 6006. It is more finicky about which FO's will throw (kinda like pure soy) and some of my best performers in 6006 just are not as strong in PB600. That's not to say it can't make a very strong candle. It can, but it's not as versatile in terms of FO's as 6006. Part of that is due to a higher soy content and part of it is due to something I don't know. I can get a better throw out of other parasoys with a similar soy %, but they aren't as pour-friendly by a long shot. If you don't mind more trial and error in terms of which FO's to use, PB600 may be the way to go for the best aesthetics and overall ease of use. Cure time is crucial for a quality burn, especially with 6006. Throw is only a secondary concern. The wax changes quite a bit over time. A burn that looks good after a couple of days cure time can look totally different after a couple of weeks or a month, etc. Curing is a step that so many people skip, and it can turn around and bite you in the rear. Been there, done that, and learned the hard way.

You seem to be way over-wicked. Use the wick guide offered by Candle Science. Allow the candle to cure at least a week before testing, longer is even better. A full melt pool is not the goal, and should not be considered a sign of success. If you have a full melt pool early on, you will be way over-wicked in later burns.

I really don't have difficulty with any of the parasoys in tins. We've done several sizes of tins, and they all work well. We've used 6006 (the most), PB600, CBL130 and multiple other parasoy blends of our own. Here's a couple of tricks that might help, or at least help you know what to look for. -Do not to get hung up on getting a full melt pool early on. You want a little wax clinging to the sides of the tin until the candle is nearly spent. The last of the wax will melt off the sides near the end and you will be left with a clean tin. If you wick hot enough for a full melt point early on, it will be too hot as the candle burns down lower in the tin. 6006 doesn't melt outward into a wide melt pool like some waxes, and sometimes people don't understand that is just the nature of this wax. I see a lot of people just keep wicking up, up, up trying for that full melt pool, and they eventually end up with a hot, sooty candle. -Allow the candle to cure. I like to wait a couple of weeks w/parasoy, but that seems to stretch the limits of patience for new makers, and I get that. Still, you really do need to wait at least a week to test burn, although 2 weeks is more ideal. If you burn too soon, parasoys (6006 especially) seem to struggle to burn efficiently, your test results won't be 100% accurate and you'll be wondering why things aren't working the way they should. A good cure fixes a lot of that. -Don't fall into the trap of wanting to use a high % of FO. More FO doesn't really mean it's going to throw stronger, but it can make wicking more challenging.

4630 is as good as anything. I’d do 50-60% 4630.

Use the wick guide offered by Candle Science. They also have wick suggestions directly on the product page for each container they sell. The recommendations for 6006 are generally accurate, and PB 600 wicks similarly, give or take a size. You won't get a full melt pool on the first burn, and you don't want to. 6-7% FO is appropriate. More isn't better.

I keep about 20 options on the shelves at all times, although many of those are changed seasonally. For wholesale, I let the client choose from a list of approx. 80 scents.

Eco 4 is what is suggested for mason jars and they do work very well.

Yep, you are several sizes too large for a mason jar. The wick guide at candlescience. com is accurate for 6006. Additionally, they offer wick suggestions for 6006 and other waxes on the product page for each container they sell.

I have a container with similar dimensions that’s doing great with 3 Eco 2’s. I also sometimes use zinc wicks (36z or 44-24z) for multi wicking and they work well. Sometimes a particular FO just gives you fits and a different wick series is necessary. Additionally, I’ve heard rumblings of a bad batch of 6006. Is it possible you have some of that? Idk anything about it but I’ve seen some say it doesn’t burn well. PB600 is nice. It looks good, is easy to use and is easy to wick, but 6006 has a superior throw IMO,

CS has very good oils. At 6-7%, they all throw for me, although some will be stronger. It’s just the nature of the beast. Using EOs can be very tricky for a variety of reasons, not to mention they aren’t very cost effective. You’ll generally have much better results using FOs. The BBW candles are using FOs that have some EO in them. They aren’t using straight EO. It’s all just marketing.

It really just depends on the FO. They all perform differently. You just have to test a longer cure time to see. Some are light no matter what you do. I don’t use Premier wicks in 6006 but I have tested them. I have had the wax discolor when using them, usually when overwicked. I’m not sure if that’s what you are seeing or if it’s debris from the wick. Both can be unsightly. I also feel like other types give a better HT. I like Eco best. LX can also be nice. I use zinc mostly when doing larger multi wicked containers, not for singles. My main candles are sold in 16oz square masons or tumblers, and Eco gives the best overall performance.

If cured for 2 weeks, they should be good to go. I see a lot of drowning wicks if the candle is burned too soon, but that usually works itself out with a decent cure time. Are you using a heavy or hard to burn FO? High FO load? Are the wicks actually leaning/falling over? Do you have pics?

How long are you curing before burning?

6006 generally has great throw. For an 8oz jelly jar, I use Eco 1 or 2 depending on the FO. LX 14-16 also work pretty well depending on the FO. The Candle Science wick guide is accurate for both 6006 and 4630. I wouldn’t use HTP in a jelly jar. They’ll lean and possibly fall over at the bottom of that jar. For 4630 I like LX or zinc best. Similar sizes as 6006, give or take a size. Again, depending on FO. If you have no throw with 6006 you may have other issues. Of those wick sizes, I would think only the HTP is so over-wicked as to inhibit throw. The zinc and LX are only a size or two off so you should still have a decent throw. If not, a couple of things....are you allowing the candles to cure? What FOs are you using? Sometimes an FO just won’t be a strong thrower no matter what you do. Both waxes only need 6-7% FO. Adding more doesn’t really help IME.

I’ve tried all the wicks in 6006, and I prefer Eco. HTP burn nice but they have a tendency to lean if the melt pool gets too deep, and is especially hard to prevent at the bottom of the container. CD work well but still have a tense to lean, although not as badly as HTP. LX burn fine but don’t self trim as well as the others. Zinc burn fine but they don’t trim at all and can mushroom more than Eco. Premier wicks don’t trim, they mushroom, and I think throw is diminished with them. So that’s why I don’t use those wicks. You may like them fine, but I’d caution against trying to test too many things at once. It muddies the waters.

Curing really does make a difference. People think it’s for throw, but it’s not in this case. 6006 usually throws well immediately, but it doesn’t burn very well immediately. Bittercreek has Eco wicks in stock right now. Depending on where you are, the shipping might be high. If so, check their eBay listings. They sell their wicks on eBay w/free shipping. They even have a sample pack listed.

Sounds like you are overwicked. Use the Candle Science wick guide. It is pretty accurate for 6006. You can also find wick recommendations on the product page for each container CS sells. They recommend Eco wicks, and they do work well in 6006. For a good burn and accurate testing, be sure to cure before burning. Bare minimum...a week. Ideally 2.