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I did a quick test. I would say for containers as is it’s good for clear containers modify the wax to make it softer to adhere to glass. Regarding wicking just test wicks.

@TJR woof that was a response! I tested again yesterday and if you are expecting an improvement on 464 this is not it. Same crusty tops, slightly harder than 464. Not worth the money. you can take 464 and use additives and work it. I blunt and used this wax and was not impressed. I have about 15 types of waxes in my studio that I have tested alone and in combinations natural and paraffin. If you have questions then ask not bark that’s rude! And you have only posted one comment and it was a bark!

A good way to learn is to buy several candles and see how they burn. For example even big manufacturers have terrible candles. I purchase from “handmade” companies, and these candles are all over the place as well. You do get a feel of how candles throw, appearance, wax texture preburn and after burn, naked wax, blends. You have to decide the criteria of what defines a good candle for you. So obviously a safe burning candles, good scent throw. Does complete adhesion to container concern you if using glass. Appearance smooth top pre burn, smooth top after burn? Vegan candle no beeswax, parasoy, paraffin, coconut. Colored or non. I personally like a well burning candle top to bottom, adhesion to glass, smooth top pre and after burn. No beeswax. Good cold and hot throw. Not too much to ask for 😂

I would mix with 464 so you have control over the amount of soy you want. You can test more easily by percentage that way for use in tins. Not a fan of 600 except for ease of use.

I have some container palm wax for a project and decided to make just palm candle. Trimmed candle to 1/4 inch lit candle but flame jumped very high! Do you trim shorter for palm as it burn down then out? This was alarming to me. Also there seemed to be separation line at bottom versus top. I’m a palm newbie so can this be avoided by heating glass, cooling differently?

Before you go crazy with fragrances. Pick a wax. Buy sample packs of wicks. Learn how waxes and wicks work together. When you have figured out how to make a safe burning candles then proceed with working with fragrances - each fragrance needs to be tested in wax. Some fragrances need a wick size up or two, and others down. There are tons of waxes all have different qualities. I suggest starting at Candlescience and look at their wick guide. Look at entire wick guide and you will see that each type of wax different wicks are suggested. Each formulation of wax burn differently. Other companies have guides too that you can cross check. It’s very important first to learn how to test burn candles - you must burn candles from top to bottom when learning to make candles. How it burns at the top of the candle is different when it burns midway and bottom. Regarding fragrances. Some fragrances will be stellar in one wax, and then a dud in another. This is all very much fine tuning combinations of wax, wick, fragrance and even container! Also starting off pick ONE container and learn how to wick it. Many beginners will decide to try making candles in five different containers and then get all mixed up with how to wick each.

What wick is this? This is a Williams Sonoma candle. The wick is loosely woven. When burning it separates into two burning wicks at top. This wick seems to be chosen to sub for two wicks. Does not seem to burn well at all and developed mushrooms almost immediately.

Yes you can but you must test the blend for wicking. Also “highest” quality is what works in you wax and wick combo.

You have to get samples. There are a million types of musks, roses etc. Each manufacturer has their own blend of single note scents. Get samples and see how you’re the representation of the note, then blend. Each fragrance will perform differently in products as each manufacturer formulates differently to get scent. It’s not as simple as buy here.

For tapers, pillars, shaped candles - prominent candle safety about what to burn on and around. I also add note about customer responsibility about burning candles. It’s at their own risk and they need to read the labels and any information regarding use is their responsibility. Candles burned with in sight. No tossing matches into meltpool. I have seen so many people toss matches into candle. No idea why, it’s ugly and flammable. I do add a sticker to jar candles to trim wick - another thing people do not do and they have wicks 3/4 inch long in jars.

When I use silicone molds for soap making, I spray the mold with cyclomethicone. It seems to help the releasability especially with a mold that has had good use. A lot of this in candles, soap, bath and body is technique and practice. fine tuning waxes helps. I have not dealt with a wax yet that did t need some fiddling.

I have been playing with harder wax in bottom of candles because it’s such a pain Mai training the perfect wick to the bottom. Is it more trouble yes but it works well with softer waxes that go choo choo in bottom half.

If jumpy try a different wick series, try and wick down and see how that works. CDN and Cd work well with coconut but wick down. It’s a ton of testing. Maybe UC wicks

Those are great but are they safe to burn. The paints?! Safety?

Glyceryl stearate is in two forms one total emulsifier he other co emulsifier. This one is a very nice emulsifier though not totally natural https://lotioncrafter.com/products/lotionpro-trade-165 You can use the other form to stabilize Olivem 1000 emulsifier. Gums can be use to stabilize lotions and creams with a tiny amount OR they can be used to make gel products with water soluble ingredients. If you create lotions or creams and add either cute real or Cetyl those can help stabilize formulas, if you want to make sure they won’t separate you add minuscule amounts of gums The more percentage of oil phase the greasier your lotion or cream will be. To make it fast absorbing keep oil phase around 20 per cent or under. The more you increase the amount of oils and butter the more emulsifier you will need.

S gum you an use alone with water based extracts, but no oils. If you mix oils into the mix you need emulsifier. Naturemulse makes fluffy emulsions. When you make lotions and creams adding a tiny amount of gum will help keep them stable. TINY amount!

I would make it user sniffer friendly. So plastic wrap, tissue something like that. They will get the sniffy picture.

Conditioner bars BTMS is kind of gold standard, but you don’t have to add all the other ingredients. Pare down. I personally can’t do BTMS conditioner bars with all the added butters. Recipe for weighted down hair. Shampoo bars experiment. Some people like a lot of extra this and that. I like the simple but that’s me. You have to test and see how you like the feel in hair. Butylene glycol is very handy. Sodium lactate handy. Experiment. Take one recipe and try very small batch to test as ingredients can get speedy. I would get a small hand mixer from AMZN to do test batches. You might want to get scale that measure tiny amounts. I got mine from lotioncrafter handy when working with additives in teeny amounts BUT you won’t waste materials. Some of your formulas will take a number of tries, I can often do ten tries for a formula to fine tune it.

Some of those waxes use canola oil, I can tell and they smell retched. 6 months seems long, and if it smells yuck then it’s probs rancid.

Etsy wants to make sure your orders get shipped out before releasing money. If you have a huge number of orders sitting and not being filled right away they will do this. They had issues with sellers during pandemic not filling orders, and or filling them months after getting orders in. It seems you have many orders not shipped out! I would review your production methods so this orders can ship pronto. It will be better for your business, if you can speed things up. Holiday time you should anticipate what will sell and have those products ready to go.

It really depends on your emulsifier and other ingredients. Some emulsifiers do creat light and fluffy, some are robust and make thick emulsions, and then you can combine emulsifiers, and coemulsifiers and thickeners. It’s good to get lots of samples and find your favorite emulsifiers and thickeners then you will have knowledge how to create the feel you want. Now throw in procedure. Read the tech tips on using emulsifiers they are good for troubleshooting. Preservatives can mess you up, they can break emulsions. A good one to use when tinkering around is germall - it’s very easy to use and never had one cream or lotion go bad. The usage rate is low too. Ewax and BTMS are popular, but there are other ones that are better. You can combine Ewax and BTMS also.

ITDF S gum is a nicer gum than xanthum. If you want to make a gel cream, adding a gum, or carbomer, or polymer works. You do have to test percentages of emulsifier with additive percentage for texture. Too much and it feels yucky. Formulations sample shop has some additional gums, you might want to test. Solagum, siligel. Lotioncrafter preneutralized carbomer is easy to use, and adds that kind of feel to emulsion.

Try Gelmaker EMU liquid is easier than powder. Very easy to use and you can whip up your dream gel cream with it. You can do cold process with distilled water and ingredients. A little goes a long way so keep percentage low under 3 per cent. More like 1-2 percent. INCI Name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80Benefits:- Excellent thickener by forming gels over a wide ph range (4-12)- Emulsifies all kinds of oily phases (up to 40%) including silicones and vegetable oils without the addition of a conventional emulsifier- Able to produce cold emulsions- Stabilizes emulsions and maintains the viscosity of a formula- Gives light and pleasant texture to spread on skinUse: Emulsions: 0.5-2%. Can be added into fat or water phase, or at the end of emulsification. Needs good mixing with hand mixer to get smooth creams. Gel creams: 1-5%. When using over 3% use at least 12% oils for best performance. For external use only.Applications: Gel-creams, emulsion-gels, cold emulsions, lotions, creams, skin-whitening /self-tanning products, sun care & baby care products, mascara, foundations.Country of Origin: FranceRaw material source: Sodiumacrylate, sorbitol, vegetable oils, petroleum derivativesManufacture: The copolymer is made by polymerization of sodiumacrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers. Isohexadecane is made in a multi-step process to form a branched C16 hydrocarbon from petroleum derivatives. Polysorbate 80 is obtained by esterification of sorbitol with one or three molecules of a fatty acid including stearic, lauric, oleic, and palmitic acid.Animal Testing: Not animal testedGMO: GMO free but not certifiedVegan: Does not contain animal-derived components

Each material has a different feel and you have to test. Also each play well with some ingredients but not others.

look here for ideas https://www.makingcosmetics.com/Serum-Gel-Formulas_ep_83.html?lang=default https://lotioncrafter.com/blogs/facial-care swift has this to buy Rheology Modifiers: Gels, Gels, Gels Learn how to make thick, suspending gels to create exfoliating products; light, hydrating toners and moisturizers; and bouncy body and facial serums filled with all kinds of vitamins and cosmeceuticals.