NightLight

My Mueller still going strong and I use it a lot. They all croak pretty quickly.

Hate to say this looks like a promotion or ad rather than getting information from the community.

No but I would eat the candle!

Walmart of Amazon have presto little griddles. Prestos are good because they have marked thermostat, other brands do not. This is little!

Also if you have orders piled up Etsy will shut account down if you don’t ship fast enough.

You should be able to contact Etsy through live chat. Access it through as if a buyer instead of seller. You can reach out through twitter or facebook possibly instagram. Etsy makes it a big pain to contact and sometimes you have to be creative. https://help.etsy.com/hc/en-us?segment=shopping You may have to create another account to get to someone for help. Don’t rule out an Etsy glitch. This happened to me yesterday, I couldn’t log in on one browser. Did you try another browser, also dump out cookies in browser

You can a little grill to put pouring pots on and keep them warm or warm up to pouring temp. Room temp for me is pretty crucial for good tops. I get good tops around 150. 464 is designed to be poured hotter. Try 130-140-150. Keep room temp at 70-75. Consistency in variables will give you best results. Do a test 10 per cent then one at 7 per cent observe how it affects candle appearance and burn. And as Busybee says blend fragrance oil in well. I add at 180-185 because it can leach out in warmer temps. Take notes of all tests. it can be a slow process getting your technique down but worth it. You will have the knowledge how to fix things, adjust wax in future. If you add anything you will have to test again even at 1 per cent! If plain 464 makes you crazy you can blend it with coconut wax or a paraffin and instant smooth wax or switch to a parasoy. Also soy waxes can vary in their lots. Your one box might be heaven the next box a clinker.

Interpretations of smooth surface with soy. You can pour at a certain temp, you can double pour, you can add additives to help smooth out, you can add paraffin. If you master a smooth top on most soys when you burn the candle it will have rough surface again unless you add additives or blend with paraffin.

You can pour higher, and finish will be better. This wax is designed for that. Other soys no. You need to make tester 10 % fo pour 150, 145, 140. Then do 8 per cent, 6 per cent. Cure some two weeks and burn. It’s a pain doing pour testers but worth nailing it for smooth tops. Now if you go wickless some tests will show ring crack but if you wick this should go away for the most part. If you just decided to do 10 per cent fragrance load without testing 6 per cent then its a must to test. More fragrance does not mean better candle and if you make these candles now particularly in warmer weather that extra fragrance will bead up on top of candle warmer months. Ask me how I know. This is all about finding good fragrances that work in your wax.

I’m not in love with Candle Science fragrance. Same things, pain to burn. Some I have I blend to make the burn easier. Additionally I have tried two rounds of new samples and not one fragrance hit the buy button.

Try pouring at 150-153. Pour temp critical for waxes. You maybe pouring too cool. 464 too hot or too cool can cause surface issues. If you can’t nail it add some paraffin - guaranteed smooth tops with blend.

Have not tried those, but don’t personally like them. Also don’t be afraid of mixing waxes. So if coco 83 not doing it for you, add some soy or paraffin and get the blend you want. I have personally found that not one wax is perfect and all of them need something. You may have to adjust for certain fragrance.

CDN are good in that wax. You can double wick with very small sizes. CDs can be good too.

This look like it was made in pieces the stacked, with final layer poured on top. You could do with silicone mold but would have to design.

Maybe you have to demo wick trimming! I have family members that are bad candle burners despite repeating trim the wick, trim the wick!

You can use sodium lactate for bar hardness as well.

You substitute plain soy wax for cocoa butter! I use it in soap for hardness and it gives great lather. Buy some 415 wax and start at 15 per cent.

Hi there, food coloring is for food not candles! You will have to throw those candles out. These are liquid colors, and dry chips that work with candle wax.

Pretty sure it’s cocoa butter. If you have seen this on chocolate bars, similar thing. You can make great soap without it.

It really depends on what coconut wax. Some are super soft and then other C6 are more like soy. Are you using golden brands soy and coconut? That’s more like soy. Why don’t you try double wicking from lx 12 and down. You can go down to LX 8.

I always add them. I have watched candle burners do stupid. Never trimming wicks. Leaving candles to burn for hours and hours. My favorite person of atrocities would light candles with matches and then stick in meltpool. Now imagine the candle half way down! Twigs of matches in meltpool! Awful. I used to go and clean out the candles and trim wicks. Many people do not know about first burns, and tunneling and then get crazy about why their candle looks bad.

Cd 12 looks good to me. And to be honest I doubt people will burn that far in jar. Now what you can do with that jar is make a soy wax tea light without a wick, then skewer it after solid, thread it through your wick and then pour your wax on top. Will slow down the area in bottom if that makes sense. You could do a votive as well. Experiment.

Have you tried cd wicks? Eco there are not ma y to fine tune wicking. Cd 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 etc. not all suppliers carry all of them but they are online. Then you can also do CDNs which burn a little less hot than CD. CDs are good in C3 as they need a hotter wick than 464.

That looks pretty decent for being low in jar. Did you try a 12? How long did you burn?

The Candle science wick guide is pretty good. Pick one vessel and start with that with the guide, and your wax.