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Sign up for five dollars and you will have wealth of info you can keep for future testing. If you want clear then you use water soluble ingredients with the gum if you are dead set on it. If you want to use oils it will not be clear without an emulsifier. Now you should test other ingredients for skin feel. I learned a ton from Swift website.

I like palm candles. Made only a couple but they have great scent and throw, and great looking also. Good luck I hope you can figure out a way to get fragrance cheaper. I can’t remember the name of the Korean candle store when I do will post, but they had great fragrance list.

Black and white is good for readability. To test your logo on color make you image small, it’s this is to be sold online. Will the colors separate enough that you can read the logo and illustration? Most images for example on Etsy are small in search. Your image small size has to pop.

They won’t emulsify. You need to use an emulsifier with oils and water. Go to Swiftcrafty blog. This is where you want to learn how to formulate. https://www.swiftcraftymonkey.blog/?s=Gels+serum She goes over various products that can help you achieve your product. I personally not a fan of xanthum gum. It can feel like sticky snot, there are other ingredients out there for you. Xanthum gum has its use in small amount, like tiny to stabilize emulsions freeze thaw.

I personally like no color! You can see the graphics well, and they can be applied on a label and seen easily. Black and white is cheaper to print FYI. I would use black and white and then change colors on the melts or use melt colors to differentiate. I like your typeface without the graphic and it would be easier to put on different size labels circles, rectangles etc. put graphic on it will be more difficult.

Your testing table😳😳😳😳😳😳. Love candles hate wick testing

Love the look, though bow fire hazard. Do you seal the inside to prevent leaks as cans don’t look seamless. Palm must work well with your weather.

Dough bowl wood fire hazard. Noninsurable. Why risk a fire in your home or anywhere else. Dollar tree has had some recalls on filled glass candles Nearly 143,000 candles sold at Dollar Tree recalled over fire, burn hazards High flames on the small votive candles sold at Dollar Tree can ignite the surface of the wax or cause the glass to break, according to the recall notice.

I’m thinking you can get fragrance oils from Korea. I bought some stuff last year from a Korean shop online, they had fragrance oils. Somebody makes them in China or Korea for sure as candle producing big in China.

Heating and holding at about 195, seems to work better with this wax.

Love the shape of these jars. Do you double wick soy for this diameter?

I use Micellar water all the time BUT you can get cheap at drugstore from good brands so don’t know if this would be worth it for you to produce. You should try some. The French ones are great. Some of the American ones I feel sticky. You must test for feel. Also if you make you have to decide if you want to add synthetics or keep natural Nd how much cleansing you want

Most people are switching to a silicone liner, cupcake line, tart mold I think. It’s nice to pop out but less of an issue these days.

I would not mix lotion in the bag. Just squeeze into new container by cutting corner of plastic bag. You can use a single beater standard hand mixer to mix fragrance oil in. This works better than any hand squishing method. Then yes easy two methods dispense into container with corner cut out or use piping bag. Bang container to settle cream. Containers! Only buy ones that you can get those plastic seals. Trying to hunt them down is more of a headache. I like those too for creams.

You could just get one gallon plastic containers and do those. If you use lotion rapidly you won’t have to worry about air and dried out lotion on top.

Def get freezer bags. They are thicker plastic. Me personally I like to blend in fragrance with a beater. Even if you have to empty out on bag into bowl to blend in fo’s the manageability of your batches should be easier than one big five gallon. Slider bags are easier and less chance of bursting open. Test everything! Webrestaurant has slider bags in bulk, I have not tried theirs so cannot attest to strength.

Zip bags are great. No air! I had large containers and when you get half way the top of cream I. Storage gets hard and yucky unless you have barrier.

You can purchase very large stockpots, but the pouring and tipping will be hard to do. You don’t put lotion in freezer. TT meant she uses freezer bags to store in. I would store lotion in gallon containers not larger. Too much air left inside unless you are going to use and bottle right away. maybe this helpful for stovetop https://www.brewinternational.com/premium-5-gallon-stainless-steel-stock-pot-with-weldless-ball-valve/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4OCT4aqB9AIVDIbICh1E7Qw1EAQYByABEgLGcfD_BwE

Do not use vintage. You won’t be able to tell if they have structural flaws, hidden hairline cracks. Etc. if these shops want vessels like shops you use, hahah they must pay. Yes, expensive but if you want the good stuff. Other is you import your own and see what cost difference is. Source your own from other places but MOQ will be high.

Fragrances don’t get watered down, but when a company orders fragrances they can have choices of how much they want to spend on an oil. So for example premium oils will if a dupe of a perfume will have more expensive aroma molecules and will smell better. To get an acceptable fragrance product that smells close enough, and comes in at a certain price point that’s the other choice or request by company ordering. I would say most companies we order from we get the good enough, and the companies make enough profit. One could get excellent fragrances but they would have to be marked off and the would put off most crafters. 16 bucks per pound is okay, but if offered at 35 bucks per pound not many sales would be made. Perfumery compounds the really good ones that make the scent can be very expensive.

I often have trouble with candle science oils. So reduce fragrance amount, or cut candle science with another fragrance. Many of their fragrance are strong enough cutting them with another well behaving fo can tame those foes to work in wax and wicks. Eco 1 don’t underestimate burn power. Been trying those in double wicks and even those can burn too hot.

Yes, at low level it was making was plastic looking then wired hairline cracks with wax cooling. I do tests on wax blends to see if I can heat gun them without issue. The blends with polyboost failed the test.

Heating and holding at 185 - 200 depending on the wax. Did not like polyboost. Caused more problems with appearance. Heating higher than I normally have and sitting with pot has worked really well.

Remove Shea and stearic. Shea is greasy. Stearic will thicken but has no glide. Your oil should have properties of lightness. There are greasy oils, ones that stay on skin for awhile before absorbing, or those that absorb quickly. Add IPM cuts greasy feeeling as well, half oil half IPM. First reduce Shea and stearic and test.

Not knowing what kind of mold. C3 is a container wax. It’s supposed to have good adhesion. So think for a second what your problem is to troubleshoot? Are you using a container wax for a stand alone candle or tart? Is that the best wax for those types of things? Now you can change your wax and or add additives to firm up c3 so it releases from molds.