Lawlaw410

Thank you for the extremely well thought out reply, I really appreciate it and will definitely be referencing it for info in the future! Yeah, unfortunately people associate the price and social media popularity of diptyque candles being “the best”. Maybe they were originally known for being excellent perfumers, but as soon as people saw makeup and lifestyle influencers have their candles on their counters, they became “superior”.

Thank you guys for the insight. I know this wasn’t my post, but I’m new to the craft and never really understood why people may test only half filled vessels, but it’s pretty obvious that will only give half of the story. I can maybe understand if you only slightly tweak something, but I’m at the point where I’m trying to get a baseline and 4 solid designs together. Also wondering if I could re-melt un-dyed, un fragranced wax in failed candles. Thanks guys!

If you only do half of the container for the test, then how do you know if you’ll get a large enough melt pool at the top where there’s more heat escaping? Not trying to question your method to be snarky, I’m a total newbie and really don’t know lol. If testing with half of a jar is actually do-able then I’m gonna do it!

Thank you so much. You’re right about having a “knockout” list, and I suppose I got some decent data about what not to use. quick question if you see this: are there any other wicks suited for coconut wax besides CD, ECO, or wood? Thanks again 🙂

So I recently found out that I could pour a candle without the wick, take a skewer and poke a hole, and wick my candle that way so if it fails, I can remove it and try a new one. I have some questions about this process: 1. If you re place a wick half way down, then you don’t really have a full candle’s worth of testing on it, so does is this method even worth it? 2. once the wick is down to 2” or less in length, it’s not stabilized, can move around after being extinguished and they’ve also just flopped over because they’re not tabbed. 4. If I go the traditional wicking route, is it ok to re melt wax with no FO or dye if the wick fails? thank you!

Thanks for the advice. Some candles I had a thick 1/2 inch ring around the edge resulting in a large tunnel essentially. I did have one that had a thinner wall of wax but it gradually shrunk down like you mentioned. I’m also testing a 4.75” dia vessel with coco apricot and a wooden wick and it’s doing the same thing, but I still have a few more cycles to go before it’s done. When I had a full melt pool after a 2nd cycle with virgin coconut wax, the temp of the container was within normal limits, but you think maybe the pool itself could have been too hot and would possibly affect my hot throw once I add FO? thank you again for the insight!

Hey guys! I’m pretty new to candle making and have run my first cycle of tests on multiple vessels. So far, I’m only doing wax with no dye or FO to get a baseline wick/wax/container combo established. I can’t get a full melt pool with coco apricot wax using an Eco12 or a CD4. Ideally, I’d like to stick to a single wick for these containers. The sizes of vessels I’ve tried with both eco 12 and cd4 are 3 1/2” high x 3 1/8” diameter and the other is slightly smaller in diameter at 3 1/2” high x 3” diameter. I did get a full melt pool on both containers with Coco 83 coconut wax however. Basically, what I’d really like to know is are there any other types wicks appropriate for coconut waxes? (except for wood) I have soy candles from Spiritual and Paid that are single wick and the first container I’ve mentioned is actually one of theirs from an old candle I’ve burned. They burn evenly and fully, so I’m super curious as to what they use. I know I’m kind of all over the place, but any guidance would be totally appreciated! Thank you!!