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NightLight last won the day on May 23

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  1. If you are going to wsp website for recipe, you should convert their recipes in their calculators to find out the percentage of each ingredient. Then try the recipe and see how you like it. If it needs a tweak like needs to be be firmer or less greasy you can change the percentage of ingredients easier and do another test. So if you made a curb that had 20 per cent Shea and you hated it you could easily calculate it and reduce it down by percentage to where you like it.
  2. I want to love LX, pretty wick burns evenly all around but I have not used in a container with any wax yet! im not a fan of Candle Science wick suggestions.
  3. Roasting pan, sous vide. You set exact temp on the sous videos water and oils. Consistent. Look for a cheapie on EBay that’s where I got mine. Works like a charm. I use it to melt down hard waxes and butters from shapers choice. Try small batch higher temps, then cool down before preservative. Should help. If not then it could be the preservative breaking the emulsion.
  4. You might look at Aztec candle new blend. C3 is also good. Plan on spending a lot of time testing. Like a long time, but you have come to 5e right place to ask questions. Search the archives lots of info.
  5. Process: I melt my oils: Coconut/olive/sunflower/shea/ewax/stearic in pot. I usually add the sunflower last so it doesn't overheat. I keep temp on low on my stove top. I then heat my water and usually my temps after water added are between 125 and 145. I always cool to 132 or less. The only thing I started doing was immediately adding my optiphen and fragrance at the same time I add my water. I then stick blend trying to keep minimal amounts of foam down. I never let the foam go in the bottle. We bottle, cap and then let sit over night. i think your process. Blend oils and water, and fragrance. Then allow to cool to add preservative. If this doesn’t work it’s could be the preservative that is making your life difficult. If you let the lotion sit overnight you can gently fold in the foam. Also it sounds like temps are too low and lotion is not actually emulsifying - also make sure your ingredients oils ewax is seriously melted. Do a test batch with higher oil and water temps - blend longer than you have been. Allow to cool way down before preservative is added then stick blend that in super well.
  6. Hi Katie, For that wax your wick choice is good. You may have to go up or down from there depending on the fragrance. You can’t depend totally on the guides as they don’t know all you waxes and additives or what fragrance oils you use. most of the guides I found are not that helpful but haha Craftserver is the best wick guide out there compiled by people who have made a million candles. Just use the guides as a starting point then test. i have found htp wicks from Fillmore and Flaming candle to be different. Fillmore’s are floppier. I like Flamings, Candle Science.
  7. Hi there To blend waxes the best way to make a perfect candle, you have to know the properties of each wax type. How it burns, what it adds to the end product. You can make a beautiful candle with just the palm wax that won’t split. Beeswax is tricky to use. Start with just palm, then make other candles with addition of 5 per cent increments. Look at the properties each candle has. Visual, burn characteristics, scent throw. Test test test.
  8. You want to test with different seasons too. Let’s say you make a great candle. Beautiful adhesion. Come fall total fail wet spots everywhere, wick won’t burn. Wait six months and see how wax settles, one year too if using soy and see how it ages. It’s not a waste of time. You will only be smart because you took your time!
  9. I use a flattop pancake griddle in the winter to warm up cold jars, but don’t use as a technique for adhesion etc. Adhesion to me comes from pour temp and modifying the wax, or wax type. Some waxes are better than others. Heating jars etc seems like another step to avoid because if you have to do tons of candles dependent on that technique that would difficult. Heating jars with gun I found is inconsistent hot spots etc. Try the griddle they have adjustable temps and if you hate it well you can make burgers and pancakes.
  10. I have a couple fragrances I like but they always give me a headache to wick. Yes I can change wicks, but want to know how other deal with fo like these. Use less? Do you dilute, and what do you use to dilute?
  11. Concerns! Powders are airborne. Adding preservative will that be good for the lungs. Clay powders for bath powder I would limit those a bit as they are heavy and get clumpy. You will have to test a bit for feel, absorbency and whether your product is too powdery airborne for people. Try above combo, if too light and fluffy and a small amount of kaolin. Magnesium stearate in small amounts might be help as anti caking agent, it’s put in vitamin capsules as filler anti caking but Too much will cause whitening.
  12. You need to do a candle burn for three hours with each wick. If it’s sooting sounds like you are wicking too high and not doing a long test burn. People single wick C3 with one wick all the time. Go to the wick down and burn three hours then make decision. You can also try different wicks. Some waxes do better with one wick series versus another.
  13. You’re at bottom of candle. Not enough solid candle to support wicks. You’re wicking with two wicks and have large meltpool. what jar is that - looks like you might not need tow wicks if it just under three inches. If so try one wick.
  14. I when you look for printer the higher dpi the better resolution. Also your artwork, save high resolution and use vector art. i have hp and use very good generic toner. Laser toners can cost you a fortune.if you are getting fuzzy printout then your printer may not have ability to print out decently if that makes sense.
  15. Alcohol or stearamine tablets and water. Never had issue with alcohol and will take oils out of lotion pump.
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