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Okay if you want drizzle for a candle you do not necessarily need the consistency of what you were describing. You want melt wax and drizzle it and it will look like what I think you want to achieve. Google pastry candles, cakes you will see various techniques

Ugh wrong number of wax victory blend 6098!

Forrest, yup that’s how you do it. If wax arrives and too hard modify it! The only wax I haven’t modified is some palm wax. Question about 4786. Get the correct wick. Never had issue wicking it.

You have to test, but anything I made with palm was strong at 6 percent. If it’s great at 6 per cent don’t waste fragrance. If you go higher percentage test in warm weather to see if it doesn’t start weeping.

You need to add harder wax like palm and test if it can withstand summer travel. And or design a candle for summer to take the heat.

I gave you a link. You need to take a hard wax, basically dilute with liquid oil or butter until til you find ratio and texture you like. First hard wax is solid, then dilute it 20, 40, 60 tests see how you like it. This is all about testing. now Mind you once you dilute to semi firm stage in warm weather most likely it will be liquid.

Not sure of what you are doing. Make sure you add your fragrance at 180-185 and stir in very well. Candlemaking is a lot of technique. Making sure you add fragrance at above temp and hold it there for two minutes to incorporate, pour at exact temps for your wax. Not all fragrances are made for candles, check what you got. Heat gunning. This is my personal peeve. This is only a coverup for bad wax. Most waxes are a huge fail at heat gunning and can make soy candles look even worse. Bumpy, pitting. If this is a concern, you can modify your wax, change waxes, use a blend of waxes.

Victory 4786 will shrink quite a bit from glass. If you use in opaque containers it’s a nice wax. To make it adhere to glass for clear glass you will need to soften it. No waves, blips in this wax. Nicer than 6006, or flaming parasoy which doesn’t have throw to me or cold throw. Would make good tin wax as is, but test in summer to see how it stands up. you could modify and make even firmer. Not the cheapest wax, and not readily available from many places.

It’s very easy to do by changing ratio of wax to oil. In theory wax is hard. You need to make it soft. Add oil in different ratios until you achieve texture. You will have to test different waxes and oils to achieve the look texture you want. http://bittercreekcandle.blogspot.com/2013/07/squeezable-scented-wax.html

It sound like you are using container wax versus pillar molded candle wax. Get pillar wax which will release from molds. Now take your molds and squirt Dawn detergent in and pour boiling hot water in to get rid of residue. Also make sure you let you candles cool very well before unmolding.

Yikes. Okay try this just to test because it is winter. Get a large heating pad and set on low. Preheat it for 45 minutes, then pour you tester and see if this helps with cracking. Make sure your room temp doesn’t go super cold at night wherever you make candles. Do another tester add 15 per cent very soft paraffin. If you don’t have use Vaseline as tester and see if that helps. And then contact where you bought wax and show photos!

Bad idea. Your wicks will be unsecured in candle base. Lesson learned. Allow plenty of time to creat new products properly. If you test well now have those candles done for Mother’s Day knowing that you did not rush testing and are producing an excellent product / candle.. For testing purposes only you can switch out loose .wicks to test.

I like the idea of the larger from production point of view. The little ones aren’t worth making. Pretty stupid waste o time.

Also so let’s say you kind of like 4627 but maybe adding a 15 per cent addition of the new wax makes it perfection for you. I have personally found not one wax is great standalone. All of the benefit from this or that.

Forrest blending waxes is very helpful when you find your current fav wax is too hard, too soft, not of this or that. I have been on blending binge for a production wax. Right now I have five favorites of various waxes and additives. Why? Couldn’t find what I liked, secondly the wax shortages make me nuts, so covering my bases. What you learn is the properties of waxes and additives so you can fine tune your wax. Haha not a cheap endeavor but you don’t have to go nuts. You could try blending a parasoy and see how you like it. Good project for winter and you may like it better than 4627 and def better than 6006!

That wax will be useful in blends and when you get a slab of like 4630 and it’s harder than your slabs before. Don’t use as standalone but can be good blender. I would try it for parasoy and see if it can stand the winter adhesion test. That’s my test where a candle has to keep adhesion during winters months for shipping in glass see through containers.

Lavenders - hahah there are some atrocious smelling blends. Don’t fall for the oils have to be expensive to be good. You have to test fragrances in wax. I have some great in one wax and terrible in another. Also out of bottle sniffle is not always very accurate how fragrances are in wax. Go slow, take notes, and don’t go crazy buying fragrances until you can pour and burn a good candle. Trust me it takes awhile but worth the time observing and testing with different wick, wax etc. then you will have a good grip on what’s going on with your candle for troubleshooting.

I think you answered yourself. Pour 464 and 415 testers with 4627 with same fragrances. Compare look, cold and hot throw. Not all waxes are compatible blenders so you have to definitely test each blend. I would do several testers and different ratios. Regarding soys, you could try different wick series to see if they help throw. Cure time etc.

Or bu natural wax blend!

A metal strainer works like a diffuser on a hairdryer. So instead of super concentrated it will diffuse the blast of hot air. if that doesn’t give you what you want then modify your wax. Make a parasoy blend, buy a parasoy blend, or start to play with additives but that can take a long time testing depending on what you want in a candle. Mind you you can get smooth tops in soy but after your burn unless you modify your wax you are back to the uglies again. It all depends on what you want. Some candle companies are proud of uglie. It’s up to you.

Yes true above TT but you can make heat gun do better by diffusing it through strainer and keep it light. If not then wax modification. I’m playing with C3 wax at the moment and the formula is much better than it was from a couple years ago.

You can make a diffuser for your heat gun with a metal strainer so the heat doesn’t go on candle full blast. Do not hold heat gun right next to strainer! You should get a mini heat gun instead of a biggie from home depot etc. I have a mini with two settings that’s handy for lots of crafts.

Did you try pouring into a different mold to test wax blend? That would be the A/B test. If you get same results then you either change the wax, change the additives. Adjust the additive percentage. Check with wax manufacturer to see what additives work and what percentage. Not all additives work with waxes. Change your technique of making is another option.

C3 can be tricky. Try heating your wax up to 180 and hold for 10 minutes and fragrance then cool. Each environment will have different result. Test 150 - 160 range. Or something I have been experimenting with different waxes, and getting better outcome. heat your wax up to 180, then let it cool, the. Come back reheat add fragrance. Some of the Natural waxes small batches I found do better this way. If you hate the look of the wax blend c3 with a soft paraffins.

Maybe try pouring even hotter. Bang out pouring pop to release bubbles. What mold? Silicone? Test different sprays in mold. Silicon I use cyclomethicone. Some molds are bad at release depends on material. Try different mold and a/b test. Could be the material of the mold. You might have to try a different mold different material.