NightLight

Fragrance oil matters. Where are you buying them from. Stick with two containers. Testing takes time especially when new. Do not test a full container. Test half way down to find wick. Sometimes a different wick series for in between sizes is necessary. There is a CD 9 wick. Sometimes you adjust a fragrance to wick it by diluting with another to make it easier to wick, but this requires experience. Same thing with 6006. You can adjust the wax with another soy wax. I never wick at 10 per cent. 5 - 7 per cent. You need to to pour three testers 6,7,10 and see how the wick burns. It should behave differently.

That where I ordered from. Service gone downhill. Also price hikes. I make soap for fun, and usually get coconut and sunflower oil from web restaurant. Yikes twenty dollars and more or these things. Have other supplies and the price hikes astronomical.

Wow, sorry but I hate doing shopping with this place. I ordered from one of their takeover sites, sent several emails and didn’t get a reply about change of address and had to call them. They literally make me insane with slow shipping and their “free shipping” then the shipping and handling fee. Who does that S+H anymore. Processing orders? It’s so painful.

I have had to wait months and months for some supplies, it’s insane. So now I have to plan on lead time at least 4-6 month in getting what I need. Some of my products are going away because it’s just no possible to have reliable sources.

Sorry haha just read my response was typing on iPad in sun. Reformulate! It’s good to do now you can let your balm sit outside and see how it reacts to heat. I would reduce Capri triglyceride and replace with softer and harder butters, add harder wax.

Hi there, if you are new to candlemaking, I would try and get sample bags of various waxes to try, along with sample bags of wick families cd, eco, htp. Candles require patience, and as TT said above it’s not just one factor to Mae a good candle it’s many. Wax, wick, fragrance, container. It’s good to know about other waxes, because something always happens! Wax changes, wax shortages, wicks...fragrance. There have been so many problems this year. I waited almost a year for many types of glassware I use in my business. Candle Science a big supplier of fragrance decided to reformulate many of its fragrances.

You have to add at 180 degrees to bind with wax. To me hotter is better, and some oils need more heat to be incorporated in wax. Do a test. Cooler you may find you fragrance settling in bottom half of candle.

You don’t have any high temp waxes or ingredients in that formula. It will break down. Reforms late and test with containers outside and a mailbox. You need to add harder butters and waxes. Carnauba, cocoa, or mango butter. Reduce the top ingredient and up percentage of harder ingredients. There is a happy place with making balms for summer and winter and you must test in both types of weather.

Your GF will not be happy with scummy hair and using vinegar in shower!

Well situation with that candle cured. Had to heat the wax up higher than 180 and stir that oil very well into wax. Seeping stopped!

I like to make my own bases. Yes it’s time consuming BUT you get to learn how to create formulas and most importantly how ingredients function and feel. There are a number of emulsifiers for lotions and they can act and feel very differently - once you find one you like the feel of for a lotion or body cream you can learn how to modify and stabilize with various additives, preservatives. If doesn’t appeal to you then you will have to test several bases to find ones you like. I never use a premise lip balm formula because depending on the flavor oil you might use 2 per cent to 10 or 20 percent and that will alter the texture. You’re better off making it. if you want to learn how to make bases go to Swiftcraftymonkey blog - all the information you need there and she writes about latest materials. With the base I found they can often use materials I don’t want in an end product. Some of the bases still use parabens or other preservatives that people just don’t want on their bodies. Check the ingredient list! You will have to decide what kind of crowd you’re selling to. If super crunchy then you have to pay attention to the ingredients that people find offensive.

Here’s the dealio on cold process, hot process shampoo bars. In my persona experience they are very bad for your hair and make them scummy. Additionally you have to do a vinegar rinse which in IMHO is a real drag in the shower. don’t believe the hype about your hair will adjust, it doesn’t. The ph isn’t right for hair. Before you try get some Dr. Bronners wash hair with and without for a week then decide if it’s a go. I make my own Sydney bars and you can make very good formulas with them. Most people put too many butters and emulsifiers in them but you can finetune the formula. They can be very luxurious and beneficial to the hair with additives. Nothing wrong with them. I would try both and decide which you want to make 👌

464 with eucalyptus. Maybe I did a blooper with scale, because this candle is super strong. Will try 6 per cent. This seeped like crazy..

It may not be the solvent, but ingredient for fragrance formula you don’t like. I find Candle Science uses same bottom notes in may fragrances, which I don’t like. Also supplier may buy from one fragrance house that the perfumer loves a certain note and puts it in everything. There are many aroma molecule that you might pick up on but other don’t but they are use for longevity in the fragrance.

I never use essential oils in any of my waxes, but had request for some candles. Had oil seepage on top, used 7 per cent. Remade candle heated to 180 stirred wax in and poured at temp for wax. Still seepage. for those who use essential oils, what percentage do you use? And if it’s not the percentage but I need an additive for eco to emulsify into wax what do you use?

It sounds like more of the spray base than fragrance oils. Many of the spray bases have terrible smells from whatever emulsifier they are using.

Also with fragrance you need to test and sit with your formula if it contains vanilla which can discolor your products to tan and brown.

Some fragrances are very strong, adjust your formula by percentage. If all your other fragrance usage is 2 per cent and you have very strong one then you would reduce to .50 or whatever you need. Obviously boy lotion is different from face. On face people like extremely light or none to rule out being irritating. Wash off you can make stronger because it doesn’t stay on skin. But you do have to check each fragrance, some are only for candles!

This fragrance is available on EBay.

Check that the fragrance oil is skin safe. Stick to low percentage 2 percentage should be ample for lotions and creams. Face creams should have a very low percentage .5 to 1 per cent depending on the fragrance. Obviously if it’s a strong one then decide on the percentage. Not all fragrances can be used on skin. IFRA will tell you what percentage up to for each kind of product, leave on or wash off.

You need a heat gun, it will help. A hairdryer doesn’t work well as the heat does get as hot as heat gun. Get the smaller craft heat gun, versus the type at Home Depot which haha cause a fire if used incorrectly. Amazon has the smaller craft it’s a learning curve with heat guns and melting candle tops.

No mothballs are toxic, but great for mouse repellent out of the house. We use mothballs in our barn and also in our lawn mower (storage) keeps the mice from nesting and eating the wires.

There are also cedar wood chips in muslin bags you can add do to.

You need to test in jars half full to find wick size.

I have no issues with Aztec fragrances. You have test each one like any other place. It could be your wax and technique and wick combo.