NightLight

This is making me crazy. Granted it’s the summer, but I have candle sweat. Good technique, fo only at 6 per cent. should I add fragrance higher than 180? Given stir it in well. Thoughts? Heat is making me mad with the issue. it seems some fragrance more prone to this than others. Additive?

Well had a confirmed order to be told after a week there was no supply. That was exciting 😱

Are you in UK? Candle Shack is British? I don’t know suppliers over there, but I would try and find another company. You should get better results with a smaller wick, let your candle burn 3 hours, before deciding wick is too small.

Yes agree with above sounds like over wicked. It’s easy to do that with parasoy. Use smaller wick, and try fragrances from another supplier. Make sure fragrance is specifically for candles.

Yes, none. See my other response. You are using flammable containers and it’s a huge no, safety alert. You can’t even get insurance for using these firestarter containers

First of all dough bowls, coconut shells, or anything made of flammable material is a fire hazard. Do you have insurance? You won’t even be able to get any when you state you are using a flammable container. These containers despite being trendy , and I see them on Etsy blah, blah are NOT SAFE. Will you be responsible for a fire? Here is an example of a dough bowl that burned by user. Are you okay with that?

Ok if the wicks don’t works those fragrances, then I would change the fragrance. LX wicks work well with 464, don’t be afraid to try larger wick. Start 22 - 26

You have to test! Lotion you make or base with fragrance. Even those without vanilla can change color FYI

I can’t stand those stabilizers, they reek to high heaven and you still have to test I would go vanillin free, or check fragrance and get percentage of vanillin under 1 percent. Their are sweet scents without vanillin but you have to hunt for them. Look on websites many have search for vanillin free. Also this stabilizers there are no ingredient lists! I asked Natrues Garden what was in theirs but they said they couldn’t get from manufacturer. Foul smelling stuff

Start by pulling all ingredients, packaging you use on daily basis. Then do next ingredients that are weekly. Take supplies that are research and development and corral them. I have entire packaging shelves, fragrance, and cosmetic areas. Shipping is another area, with all box sizes easily accessible, labels in file boxes for quick access. you have to routinely go through and prioritize and toss old stuff. whatever comes in needs to be labeled with date it goes in your storage area. You can get get great storage options through Home Depot, and Lowe’s. boxes and wire shelving. It’s an investment but it can save sanity. my wire shelving is all on wheels so I can move stuff around when needed.

Ok sorry missed that. I would reduce the fragrance and see if that helps, then blend that troublesome ones 50/50. keep fragrance load no more that 7 percent. Also 464 and 4627 may not be happy with each other. You could get samples try 415 with 4627. 415 soy is good blender with less additives that 464. I always keep some around. UC should have worked, I find them hotter than CD, but you may have to wick up way more than you expect for decent burn with certain scents. I have a couple fos that either go way up or down, so don’t discount hotter. from your picture looks like you could wick hotter. Do you have anymore uc, or lx. Try LX 24 or 26. Uc and cd go up 22,24.

Ah ha. First stop adding stuff! The best way to stay organized is nothing comes in when you have less space until something goes out. message me with a photo I can help you.

Dial back on scent, or if you have troublesome fo’s tame them with well behave fo. sofor example cut the fragrance with 1/3 or 1/2. You can often keep the the same scent composition but have a way better burning candle. I had a couple stinker fragrances and discovered this is a great way to get them to work. Did you try LX, UC wicks? Get some samples. The CD wicks should work though. First cut back on scent, work only with undyed wax.

I would contact the manufacturer. I would use product as is, unless you’re adding things that might make base a bacteria soup when wet. They do design the base with safety in mind and always tell customers not to add water into container.

You do have to be precise with your liquid amounts or you will have problems. Do you work with measured percentage amount? Bath bombs work better when you have down to measured science. Also technique.

I would try cds and lx wicks see how you like them. It’s really about testing the wicks and wax combos before you get magic combo. If CDN small flame, try wicking up one, or two. Then test against cd and lx. I just tested cdn versus cd, and not much difference to me, so I would try wicking up and burn two hours. What yr jar type, and have you tried different fragrances? Some fragrance are PITB (pain in the butt). I like to try wicks with a couple fragrances before making decision.

This was posted on Reddit. A reminder dough bowls which are made of wood will burn. This is not a risk you want to take with friends, family and customers. Just say NO!

Haha well it would make candlemaking fun, if the wicks were made hotter at top cooler at bottom.! They other way to adjust is to pour harder wax at bottom and or use tea light harder wax in bottom and pour softer wax top. Can it be done yes, is it a pain in the tushie, yes.

Testing half, three quarters full works well for me. If I get a decent burn in the hotter part of candle, I make a full-size candle. It works very well. Most of the complaints I see on wicking is people saying it burns great at top the. Turns into inferno in bottom half. I do all my wick tests this way, works for me. No complaints from my customers who like that my candles burn a long time. That Diptique candle, I would have done a wick test in that area to begin with.

Tins you must burn all the way down because the tin heats up, wax becomes very liquid in bottom half. Open jars versus closed jar, different wicks as well. Limit your containers, pick the wax test, pick four fragrance so you don’t get overwhelmed testing. I like to do three to four hours burns and see how the candles burns. One hour burns are useless, everyone I know who burns candles likes to burn them at least two hours. I do half full jars for testing because this is where they get hot when you burn. You have to patient, but you will learn which wick to use for your wax, when to swap out a wick series for another if your fragrance, or dye make it necessary for another style wick. Lots of factors but you learn a lot. Buy candles from companies and test burn besides yours.

Candles and Supplies. They have sample wicks, going to try.

Amazing. Ordered two weeks ago and order has not shipped. Terrible.

Think it’s same company

New Ultra-Core Wicks are made in the USA and are a 100% natural option for your container candles. The fibers used to construct Ultra-Core Wicks provide an incredible burn in all of the waxes! We tested soy, paraffin, coconut, palm, beeswax, candle gel and many hybrid blends and the Ultra-Cores did not fail! We kept testing different variations because we couldn’t believe it that finally, one wick burns everything! The Ultra-Core unique knitted patented design allows the wax to flow through the fibers easier to fuel your flame and improve your melt pool resulting in a much better burning candle. Improved meltpools mean less tunneling and your hot fragrance throw will be stronger too. Ultra-core wicks burn with a shorter, hotter flame which means little or no soot and smaller mushrooms. The core in the middle keeps your wick straight, which not only makes candle production much easier, the Ultra-core will not curl, sag or bend as the candle burns. The sizing system of Ultra-Core wicks is easy to understand too. The wick number (1.45, 1.651, 1.792, 2.0, etc.) represents the melt pool diameter after 2 hours of burning in a 140-degree paraffin wax. This size is a starting point for your wick selection and adjustments may need to be made depending on the wax used, fragrance, color, additives etc. Why we LOVE Ultra-Core Wicks: -Made in the USA -Burns in all waxes - no need for multiple type wicks for each wax -Improved melt pools = stronger hot fragrance throw -Little or no soot -Wicks stay straight in the jar - no wick sag! -Shorter flames are safer in containers -No tunneling - candles burn to the edge of the container -No curl & smaller mushrooms -Great for Multi-wick candles -Sizing is easier to understand ALWAYS TEST BURN YOUR CANDLES but here are some recommendations based on our testing. -Trim your wicks to ¼ inch or less. -Palm wax and low melt point paraffins burn very easy - size down accordingly -Size up for beeswax candles.

Have to agree with ErronB. This takes a long time to master, there are many variables. I don’t like 6006 myself. As others have said pick a straight side jar, or glass no wider than three inches for practice. If 6006 is a stinker, then get samples of c3 and problend both at Flaming Candle to try. C3 has its own set of peculiarities FYI before you jump in. Sample packs of different types of wicks are good. Each wax like certain wicks with fragrance. Buy fragrance from reputable candle companies - not every fo is good in your wax. Some aren’t strong when burning, some are dang hard to wick. Keep your test candles 6-8 per cent with fo. Adding more fo does not make a better candle and the fragrance can leach out the top of your candle. Pick four fragrances you love for testing. It has to be simple, because it complicated. Once you understand different waxes, how they burn and throw and the qualities of wicks, you will be able to ,ale quality candles. You are not failing, learning. By the way, hahah I am waist deep in waxes. I have many many types in my workroom.