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NightLight

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Everything posted by NightLight

  1. I would contact the manufacturer. I would use product as is, unless you’re adding things that might make base a bacteria soup when wet. They do design the base with safety in mind and always tell customers not to add water into container.
  2. You do have to be precise with your liquid amounts or you will have problems. Do you work with measured percentage amount? Bath bombs work better when you have down to measured science. Also technique.
  3. I would try cds and lx wicks see how you like them. It’s really about testing the wicks and wax combos before you get magic combo. If CDN small flame, try wicking up one, or two. Then test against cd and lx. I just tested cdn versus cd, and not much difference to me, so I would try wicking up and burn two hours. What yr jar type, and have you tried different fragrances? Some fragrance are PITB (pain in the butt). I like to try wicks with a couple fragrances before making decision.
  4. This was posted on Reddit. A reminder dough bowls which are made of wood will burn. This is not a risk you want to take with friends, family and customers. Just say NO!
  5. Haha well it would make candlemaking fun, if the wicks were made hotter at top cooler at bottom.! They other way to adjust is to pour harder wax at bottom and or use tea light harder wax in bottom and pour softer wax top. Can it be done yes, is it a pain in the tushie, yes.
  6. Testing half, three quarters full works well for me. If I get a decent burn in the hotter part of candle, I make a full-size candle. It works very well. Most of the complaints I see on wicking is people saying it burns great at top the. Turns into inferno in bottom half. I do all my wick tests this way, works for me. No complaints from my customers who like that my candles burn a long time. That Diptique candle, I would have done a wick test in that area to begin with.
  7. Tins you must burn all the way down because the tin heats up, wax becomes very liquid in bottom half. Open jars versus closed jar, different wicks as well. Limit your containers, pick the wax test, pick four fragrance so you don’t get overwhelmed testing. I like to do three to four hours burns and see how the candles burns. One hour burns are useless, everyone I know who burns candles likes to burn them at least two hours. I do half full jars for testing because this is where they get hot when you burn. You have to patient, but you will learn which wick to use for your wax, when to swap out a wick series for another if your fragrance, or dye make it necessary for another style wick. Lots of factors but you learn a lot. Buy candles from companies and test burn besides yours.
  8. Candles and Supplies. They have sample wicks, going to try.
  9. Amazing. Ordered two weeks ago and order has not shipped. Terrible.
  10. New Ultra-Core Wicks are made in the USA and are a 100% natural option for your container candles. The fibers used to construct Ultra-Core Wicks provide an incredible burn in all of the waxes! We tested soy, paraffin, coconut, palm, beeswax, candle gel and many hybrid blends and the Ultra-Cores did not fail! We kept testing different variations because we couldn’t believe it that finally, one wick burns everything! The Ultra-Core unique knitted patented design allows the wax to flow through the fibers easier to fuel your flame and improve your melt pool resulting in a much better burning candle. Improved meltpools mean less tunneling and your hot fragrance throw will be stronger too. Ultra-core wicks burn with a shorter, hotter flame which means little or no soot and smaller mushrooms. The core in the middle keeps your wick straight, which not only makes candle production much easier, the Ultra-core will not curl, sag or bend as the candle burns. The sizing system of Ultra-Core wicks is easy to understand too. The wick number (1.45, 1.651, 1.792, 2.0, etc.) represents the melt pool diameter after 2 hours of burning in a 140-degree paraffin wax. This size is a starting point for your wick selection and adjustments may need to be made depending on the wax used, fragrance, color, additives etc. Why we LOVE Ultra-Core Wicks: -Made in the USA -Burns in all waxes - no need for multiple type wicks for each wax -Improved melt pools = stronger hot fragrance throw -Little or no soot -Wicks stay straight in the jar - no wick sag! -Shorter flames are safer in containers -No tunneling - candles burn to the edge of the container -No curl & smaller mushrooms -Great for Multi-wick candles -Sizing is easier to understand ALWAYS TEST BURN YOUR CANDLES but here are some recommendations based on our testing. -Trim your wicks to ¼ inch or less. -Palm wax and low melt point paraffins burn very easy - size down accordingly -Size up for beeswax candles.
  11. Have to agree with ErronB. This takes a long time to master, there are many variables. I don’t like 6006 myself. As others have said pick a straight side jar, or glass no wider than three inches for practice. If 6006 is a stinker, then get samples of c3 and problend both at Flaming Candle to try. C3 has its own set of peculiarities FYI before you jump in. Sample packs of different types of wicks are good. Each wax like certain wicks with fragrance. Buy fragrance from reputable candle companies - not every fo is good in your wax. Some aren’t strong when burning, some are dang hard to wick. Keep your test candles 6-8 per cent with fo. Adding more fo does not make a better candle and the fragrance can leach out the top of your candle. Pick four fragrances you love for testing. It has to be simple, because it complicated. Once you understand different waxes, how they burn and throw and the qualities of wicks, you will be able to ,ale quality candles. You are not failing, learning. By the way, hahah I am waist deep in waxes. I have many many types in my workroom.
  12. Fragrance oil matters. Where are you buying them from. Stick with two containers. Testing takes time especially when new. Do not test a full container. Test half way down to find wick. Sometimes a different wick series for in between sizes is necessary. There is a CD 9 wick. Sometimes you adjust a fragrance to wick it by diluting with another to make it easier to wick, but this requires experience. Same thing with 6006. You can adjust the wax with another soy wax. I never wick at 10 per cent. 5 - 7 per cent. You need to to pour three testers 6,7,10 and see how the wick burns. It should behave differently.
  13. That where I ordered from. Service gone downhill. Also price hikes. I make soap for fun, and usually get coconut and sunflower oil from web restaurant. Yikes twenty dollars and more or these things. Have other supplies and the price hikes astronomical.
  14. Wow, sorry but I hate doing shopping with this place. I ordered from one of their takeover sites, sent several emails and didn’t get a reply about change of address and had to call them. They literally make me insane with slow shipping and their “free shipping” then the shipping and handling fee. Who does that S+H anymore. Processing orders? It’s so painful.
  15. I have had to wait months and months for some supplies, it’s insane. So now I have to plan on lead time at least 4-6 month in getting what I need. Some of my products are going away because it’s just no possible to have reliable sources.
  16. Sorry haha just read my response was typing on iPad in sun. Reformulate! It’s good to do now you can let your balm sit outside and see how it reacts to heat. I would reduce Capri triglyceride and replace with softer and harder butters, add harder wax.
  17. Hi there, if you are new to candlemaking, I would try and get sample bags of various waxes to try, along with sample bags of wick families cd, eco, htp. Candles require patience, and as TT said above it’s not just one factor to Mae a good candle it’s many. Wax, wick, fragrance, container. It’s good to know about other waxes, because something always happens! Wax changes, wax shortages, wicks...fragrance. There have been so many problems this year. I waited almost a year for many types of glassware I use in my business. Candle Science a big supplier of fragrance decided to reformulate many of its fragrances.
  18. You have to add at 180 degrees to bind with wax. To me hotter is better, and some oils need more heat to be incorporated in wax. Do a test. Cooler you may find you fragrance settling in bottom half of candle.
  19. You don’t have any high temp waxes or ingredients in that formula. It will break down. Reforms late and test with containers outside and a mailbox. You need to add harder butters and waxes. Carnauba, cocoa, or mango butter. Reduce the top ingredient and up percentage of harder ingredients. There is a happy place with making balms for summer and winter and you must test in both types of weather.
  20. Your GF will not be happy with scummy hair and using vinegar in shower!
  21. Well situation with that candle cured. Had to heat the wax up higher than 180 and stir that oil very well into wax. Seeping stopped!
  22. I like to make my own bases. Yes it’s time consuming BUT you get to learn how to create formulas and most importantly how ingredients function and feel. There are a number of emulsifiers for lotions and they can act and feel very differently - once you find one you like the feel of for a lotion or body cream you can learn how to modify and stabilize with various additives, preservatives. If doesn’t appeal to you then you will have to test several bases to find ones you like. I never use a premise lip balm formula because depending on the flavor oil you might use 2 per cent to 10 or 20 percent and that will alter the texture. You’re better off making it. if you want to learn how to make bases go to Swiftcraftymonkey blog - all the information you need there and she writes about latest materials. With the base I found they can often use materials I don’t want in an end product. Some of the bases still use parabens or other preservatives that people just don’t want on their bodies. Check the ingredient list! You will have to decide what kind of crowd you’re selling to. If super crunchy then you have to pay attention to the ingredients that people find offensive.
  23. Here’s the dealio on cold process, hot process shampoo bars. In my persona experience they are very bad for your hair and make them scummy. Additionally you have to do a vinegar rinse which in IMHO is a real drag in the shower. don’t believe the hype about your hair will adjust, it doesn’t. The ph isn’t right for hair. Before you try get some Dr. Bronners wash hair with and without for a week then decide if it’s a go. I make my own Sydney bars and you can make very good formulas with them. Most people put too many butters and emulsifiers in them but you can finetune the formula. They can be very luxurious and beneficial to the hair with additives. Nothing wrong with them. I would try both and decide which you want to make 👌
  24. 464 with eucalyptus. Maybe I did a blooper with scale, because this candle is super strong. Will try 6 per cent. This seeped like crazy..
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