birdcharm

I've wondered in the past how I would replace any of the glitters I have once they've been used, as I wasn't sure the place I got them from was still in business. It looks as though they are not, so I went looking around and I'll post these links just for reference, but you may find something at one of these places. Ultra-fine Glitter Michael's - Extra-fine Glitter Pastel Ultra-fine

I took out one of the bottles, maybe you can see if this place is still doing these. The glitter name says "Prisma Pastels" - Gick Crafts, Irvine, CA

I think mica will clog wicks, so I've never tried it. I have used specialty glitters and I believe that is what is in the second video you posted. I still have many bottles of different kinds that I've used in gel candles. The product name on the information sheet I kept from years ago said Creative Beginnings and glitter styles were Diamond Dust, Diamond Bright, Diamond Pastel and Hologram. They came in different size particles, the smaller particles can sometimes build up on the wick, but as you can see in that second video, the larger glitter moves away from it. I can look at the bottles later to see if there is more information on the labels.

I spotted her post, so thought I'd add it here ... That was in this thread (link) Don't mind me, I'm just reading and playing a private game of "Concentration" ... lol.

I've never made them, but I know you use a high meltpoint paraffin wax, 150-160dF.

I've been reading reviews on some scents at WSP ... these are the ones I'm curious about ... Alpine Frost Frosted Birch Juniper Both of those had comments that said they were "snowy" and they had good reviews, but I think they might have a lot of evergreen. I was hoping there was a candle review on their Frosted Pinecone. Another one that sounds interesting is Jack Frost.

Let us know if you can! I used to mix a fudge brownie (forgetting where it was from!) with orange for a chocolate orange stick candy. If you've never done that, give it a try sometime!

Well, you all went and made me want to make some of these now ... I have FCO and I ordered emulsifying wax last week for my creams (personal use), so I'm feeling an experiment headed my way!

Yes ... for sharing your experience! Long ago, speaking of sounding old, lol ... when Community Candle used to be Alabaster, they sold what they called "Orangelade" ... it was a SWEET orange punch scent. It's been discontinued since the company has changed and I don't think they're bringing it back, but I wish they would. I used to mix with it a lot and get all sorts of great results with it. I could easily see mixing it with a sweet, creamy vanilla or creme brulee to achieve a delightful scent. I have not tested the straight creamsicles/dreamsicles, but I may try one day, or seek out a sweet orange punch. What do you think of WSP's creamsicle by itself (if you've tried it), or OOB?

Although I haven't made the type of scrubs you are making, I've made molded bath/shower salts and have read that grapeseed oil is less likely to leave residue in the tub. I finally bought some and now need to test that aspect of it, as I've previously used apricot kernel oil.

I have a feeling this one might work ... Candlemaker's Store Fudge Brownie

Maybe it means that unlike a hard wax like paraffin, softer soy wax doesn't trap the scent in place as well. I just wanted to say that in quoting their reply, there was a cordial beginning/end to their message, but I only posted the part with the specifics as an actual cut/pasted quote (although I probably should have fixed a typo for them, oh well!) They were very nice and also mentioned that they will be posting the flashpoints of their oils on their website. It's interesting to note that they did say "soy wax" as in soy wax period, not just this type. So, should this be a consideration? I'm not sure. Most of the scents I use are around 170dF or over, but I do have some that I like that are under, which now makes me wonder if I should use them in straight soy. As for a shine finish ... Trappeur ... you're not alone! I much prefer a shiny candle!

I have received a reply ... here is the explanation: Scent might drift of sink a bit in the soy wax due to its components. We recommend heating the P-100 to 160°F then adding fragrance oil. It is best to let the wax cool down as much as possible before pouring in order to allow the fragrance to settle in between the crystals of wax. That should take care of the drifting or sinking of the fragrance notes.

Okay, so I asked them to explain it. Message to them: Re: http://store.americansoywax.com/P-100-Ultimate-VotivePillar-Blend-10lb-bag_p_431.html Some conversation has come up in regard to your P-100 wax and the use of fragrance oil. Can you please further our knowledge regarding the recommendation about using a 190dF flashpoint fragrance oil with this wax?

First, I'd like to say that I personally feel that their soy pillar wax probably does not allow scent to sink. Yet, they have put this precaution in place for some reason. It could be for some sort of safety consideration that we're just not understanding; or, maybe, it's for some other reason or no good reason! It's hard to tell. Regarding gel candles and flashpoint ... the flashpoint doesn't have so much to do with clouding ... what prevents that is using a non-polar scent. I think the reason a high flashpoint is recommended for those has more to do with any accumulation of scent that may sink to the bottom of the candle. Let's say you use a polar scent that has a low f/p in a gel candle (which did not happen to cloud it) and over time the scent sinks, then when the candle gets to the bottom, there is too much scent at the bottom of the candle ... then there's a problem. So, what I'm saying is that perhaps this wax allows for scent drift somehow, or they have determined that it can sink ...? In this case, a higher f/p oil would be safer. Or, it could be that their f/p note doesn't have anything to do with anything. What is really off is to have a note like that on the wax page and then not list the f/p's on the scent page. It's not making sense.

This seems to be some new sort of wax according to their page. I don't know why they feel a reason to list in their guidelines for use about the flashpoint, but I don't know this new wax of theirs either. Perhaps, as with gel candles, the oil migrates in this wax ...? If that is true, then I understand completely why they would say something about the flashpoint. Maybe with this particular new soy/pillar (without any paraffin), there is a reason they've said that ...? I don't know, but unless I know more specifics about their new P-100, I would follow the guideline. Maybe their new wax has some attributes that are different and require scents with a higher flashpoint ... I guess someone needs to ask them what's up.

I guess they have a mistake on their website and they've yet to fix it. I wonder if anyone has told them that the information they've posted is wrong? ...perhaps not. They really need to get that off of there if it's not the manufacturer's guidelines, imo. Here is where I got this from, for reference: AAK Info Pg You're sure to see better results!

@Moonstar, thanks for your scent reviews! I think someone else may have mentioned the Lemon Cheesecake here at some point. I might try that one day! I took a look at the wax you're using (I think this is it) ... to dull the finish, I guess you need to pour at a cool temperature. This is from the page I was looking at ... P-100 Ultimate Pillar Blend You can create a rustic mottled candle by pouring cooler, and a shiny sophisticated candle by pouring hotter. Melt wax to 180 degrees F Let cool to 170 degrees F and add fragrance Pour right away for smooth finish, or cool to 145 degrees for mottled effect. Let cool for 48 hours prior to burning. This wax can be fragranced to 12% or higher, but be sure to use fragrances with flashpoints above 190 degrees for maximum performance in your candle. Always test your wicks in your candles. ~~~~ (Note: I don't see flashpoints listed for their scents.)

That is even better than large spoon (I should have clarified the size, I use similar to a tablespoon) -- I got in the habit of using those for color testing -- I can scoop a little in the spoon on my way out of the melting pot and let it sit to see how color is doing, but I agree that for stirring scent, a spatula would be even better.

It seems that all of the ones I've smelled have a kind of dusty walnut odor with chocolate and I haven't been too impressed. I think if I was trying to really make a nutty fudge brownie scent, I would get a rich chocolate fudge scent and then add the nuts, possibly some almond. I think this could still be called brownie, or nutty fudge brownie, etc.

I think the max. f/o for GW464 is 9% ... it's the GW444 that is 11% as far as I'm aware. Now, that's amazing though ... the 464 will actually hold 12% without seeping? The thing that concerns me the most with using more f/o than recommended is fire hazard. As for stirring, it's a critical step. Also, I'm of the belief that you should use a spoon to stir with, going around the pot several times, then some figure eights, just to make sure it's all getting mixed well. I've seen some youtube videos in which they splash the scent in the pot and give it a few brief whisks with a slender stick ... makes me shudder!!

I think there is much less of that with straight-sided glasses/jars, which is why I prefer them. Also, I think a more open melt pool, as you get with straight-sided, may be of benefit to scent throw in some way.

I don't think it's an issue to most people if the wax turns color a bit after the candle has burned. It might even be expected. What wax do you use and does it do it with all of your scents?

@Daisymay66, do you know how much knowledge you have regarding scents that most of us would just love to have a fraction of? Your money hasn't been wasted at all, imo. If you want to get rid of your excess, do as suggested, list them for sale or trade or if you're an ebayer, for instance, list them there as a lot and ship them out. One of the joys of crafting is in the giving -- it's not something that shows in your bank, but it always shows in the quality of your life.

I've decided to order a sample bottle of WSP Crackling Firewood. The reviews here seem to be pretty positive, and overall reviews on their site appear to be also, with some very strong similar comments made (i.e., "sweet note") ... this might be just what I need. I bought a "Natural Pine" that I have sitting here and it's too strong of a pine resin smell for me, so I mixed it with some bayberry, some berries, etc. in several different ways to get it to still be woodsy, but with more character. This may work for that ... I want to make some chimney candles and this might help me get there. Thank you all for sharing! A review from WSP's site: "True Firewood " COMMENTS: So true to a campfire . Does have a bit of a sweet note, to me anyhow. Very strong + use very sparingly. Will be using in a Smores blend. PRODUCT USED IN: Candles - Paraffin, Candles - Soy