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  1. Hello! I am new to candle making and looking to confirm some information I've found online. I started looking into this because I recently bought an oil warmer and a wax warmer that are powered by tea light candles. This got me wondering if there are different "types" of tea light candles that would be optimal. The distance from the candle to the wax/oil dish is set so all I can control is how hot the candle is in terms of how fast the wax melts / oil heats As I understand it, there are 5 components to candle making in regards to heat. 1) Wick Size: Basically the biggest factor in candle heat. I've heard some varied information about how hot or quick different wick materials burn, but at the end of the day fire is fire. Bigger Wick = Bigger Flame = Hotter and Faster Burn. Ofcourse, adding multiple wicks will also add more heat. 2) Wax Type: Harder waxes and higher grade waxes burn hotter. 3) Candle “Additives”: Additives such as dye and fragrances (depending on what you use to add scent) have more to do with how "clean" the candles burn (a.k.a. how much soot they produce), but the entire candle formula/blend can affect the temperature and burn speed of the candle. For example, oil burns hotter than water so a candle/wax blend with a lower water content / higher oil content will burn hotter (also certain oils burn hotter than others). 4) The Container The Candle Is In: The container won't affect the heat of the candle, but it is super important to consider the size and the material of the container you’re using for your candle relative to flame size and heat. Plastic containers can work, but I've heard many people talk about them melting and/or catching fire. Thicker and more heat resistant containers are typically more expensive, but may be worth it for the increased safety when working with bigger/hotter flames. 5) What you're using the candle for / how long you want it to burn: I'd prefer a slower burn for any candle because they are longer lasting, but I might prioritize a brighter flame for an outdoor candle or more heat for a wax/oil warmer candle (but not enough heat to cause cracking/damage). Either way, Hotter Burn = Shorter Lasting Candle, so you must balance your priorities. I hope this info is helpful! (if it's all correct lol) P.S. If anyone has any specific recommendations or experiences regarding different waxes, wick materials/sizes, fragrance types, dyes, container materials, etc. or any advice in general I'd really appreciate it. Right now I'm just looking to make candles for my self and maybe some gifts, I expect I'll go through a lot of trial and error but any mistakes I could avoid or tips to improve my candles would be great!
  2. So ive been testing a lot with 6006 and i found that a normal wick just dosent work with my fragrance. It does give scent throw quite quick but the melt pool is not that great. Wooden wicks gives me a great melt pool but the scent throw is worse if you compare it to normal wicks? why is that and is it normal ? does candles with wooden wicks need more FO% then a candle with normal wicks?
  3. I am looking for real strong scents and already have some favorites from natures garden or flaming candle but I have never ordered from JS and they have a lot of unique things I would like to try. I was hoping someone could chime in and see if they've tried these scents before as I already googled a lot. I use parasoy candles and use max load possible. Here are the fragrances I wanted to try: VANILLA SNOWFLAKE BUTTERCREAM CRUNCH BUTTERSCOTCH BRULEE PEPPERMINT BARK MARSHMALLOW PEPPERMINT CHRISTMAS WISH CHRISTMAS BLIZZARD COTTON CANDY SUPER STRONG BAHAMA MAMA COCONUT CRAZY COTTON CANDY FROSTED CAKE COTTON CANDY FROSTING FAIRY DUST I'm pretty nervous ordering fragrances as I find coconuts and cake ones always smell like play dough. I had the candy cane vanilla FO from natures garden and no matter what type of wax I used it always smells like a a weird burnt smell when lit so I really want a good mint scent. Hoping someone can take the time to help me if they have used any of these!
  4. Hi. I have made a candle that looks like the attached picture . Dont know how to describe it. Why is that ?. I have used paraffin wax with color and the end results were disappointing.
  5. Quick question about FO and wicks/wax. Ive tried a CSN14 in IGI 6006(parasoy) and have found that it burns really well other than a few things. It mushrooms and soots a bit a bit but also tunnels. I know that too small of a wick can cause the tunneling but I've read that soot and mushrooming identifies too large a wick. I am using 8.5% FO (as IGI 6006 says 10% is max). My question is, if I lower my FO % will this decrease the sooting and mushrooming? Also, will my HT be greatly affected? I'm not sure how much lower to go but I was considering trying 7.5%-8%. Ive ordered a size up just to see the difference and will be trying them this weekend. thank you!
  6. hi all, i'm new to candle making and have started using C3 wax. i'm having difficulties with the texture of my candles. i have been getting rough, uneven tops and cracking. i have tried almost every pouring temp between 120-165*F. i have also tried not adding fragrance oil to see if it was causing the texture but they came out the same. at this point, i have no idea what is causing the texture. i would love to achieve smooth tops with C3 as it is the only wax my local supplier carries. please let me know if you have any advice. also, has anyone been successful with HTP wicks and C3 wax? i am using 4oz and 8oz straight glass jars but all i get is tunneling. i also get poor glass adhesion even after pouring slowly. what could be the problem? i've read many success stories with C3 but so far it has been a complete nightmare :((((((
  7. I am looking for opinions on The Candle Source. Their fragrances are cheap but are they good? I am very picky. I only like strong fragrances. What brands would you compare this too. Thank you
  8. As I write this I am enjoying the fresh smell of my 'bonfire' wax melt that I had made one week ago. Everything was going perfect until I noticed my fragrance starting to evaporate off the top. I blew it out immediately however I found that this is not the first time this has happened as I use my wax melter. I am trying to figure out why this is happening. Is it that my tealight candle is to big? or does it have to do with the fragrances themselves? I was timing the wax and at the 45 minute mark it started to smoke/steam/fume, what ever yo want to call it, and now I am worried about how this will effect product reviews. The CT and HT are amazing and strong however if it all dissapears because it is getting to hot then that wont really matter. What do you guys and gals think? p.s I do trim the wick to almost non existent before lighting however this still happens.
  9. I would like to start of by saying that I am fairly new to the candle making game. Unlike some seasoned veterans I barley have a year under my belt making candles and wax melts. However, with the risk of sounding prideful, I make good products. My HT and CT are strong and I have a set process that gives 90% sucess (avoiding major issues) when it comes to production. That being siad, the other 10% lies in the look of the candle. I use soy 464 for my candles and 494 for my melts and each frost. I understand that it is because it is natural and that is what soy does however I can't help but question if someone would want to buy a candle with it. Personally I would be okay with it because I know the quality of the candle is maintained in its most principle level (the scent) however the average consumer might not know that. For the bussiness owners out there, what is your take on selling these 'imperfect' candles?
  10. Hello everyone, i’m Tina from VietNam. I am starting to make candles for sale and I have a few questions that are eager to help. Sorry if my english's too bad and you can't understand. 01 - I intend to make containers candles with cement because the Vietnamese market currently does not have this product. Will there be as many difficulties with it as permeability? 02 - I will use wooden woods. 03 - I use palm wax, because there are not many choices in Vietnam. Important i want to ask: I see people recommending to use FO instead of EO, because EO is quite expensive and not scent either. But in Vietnam there are almost no FO manufacturers, and shipping from abroad is quite time consuming and expensive. EO is selling in Vietnam very cheap so I think it is not purely EO, they mixed with something. For example, Lavender Essecence Oil is only $ 1.5 for 10ml. I experimented with some EOs, because I like to mix the scents. It gave off great cool scent but it wasn't time to burn so I don't know if throw scent is good or not. * If I use FO, are there scent FO like EO for mixing? I would like to include some EO images that I am using. And can you guys give me some advice on what I'm doing? Thanks so much for your help
  11. Hi, I’m a few weeks in to my research phase for making candles. Got into this by looking for non-toxic diffuser refills for my home, which led to looking at oils, fragrances, and paraffins and then stumbling across so much YouTube content. Then, yada yada, I’ve invested about $600 in fragrance samples, test waxes, supplies, containers. I plan to try making my own soy-beeswax-coconut blend OR hopefully finding success with one of the Cargill Nature Waxes. I welcome any advice for this testing stage, especially with: non-paraffin waxes wicks testing FO’s without breaking the bank FO load for HT Glad to find this group! Thanks!!
  12. Please can anyone help me with how to make squeezable wax to go on the burners?
  13. Has anyone found a replacement for the discontinued Candle Science Lavender Cucumber Sage Scent? The scent profile is below: Note Profile:Top: Chamomile, Neroli, EucalyptusMiddle: Lavender, Orange, RoseBase: Powder, Vanilla, Cedar
  14. To start this topic off I'll post links to these two articles that I found on the National Candle Association's website. They certainly don't like nor agree with some research that South Carolina State University has been doing on candles and posting on their website. Looks like the NCA makes some valid points. https://candles.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/The-National-Candle-Association-Response-to-Massoudi-1.pdf https://candles.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/NCA.SCSU-Press-Release-4.11.2017.pdf
  15. Has anyone Sweetcakes Lavender & Herbs ? Its pretty pricy so I was hoping to get some opinions before ordering ? I also saw Original Herbal Essence too. Thanks !
  16. Best candles preferred to be used in 2020. I prefer flameless candles.
  17. Help! Candle making newbie here so please excuse any ignorance!!! Made my first candle last night, long thin glass container. It's burning beautifully to start with. All the way to the edges etc. Then the flame gets smaller and smaller and gets drowned by the wax. I tried draining a little of the wax off and it burned brilliantly again for a while then the same problem. Everywhere I have looked online has only mentioned this happening when tunneling which is not the problem here. Pic attached is of when it was being made to give idea of size. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong please? Thank you in advance!!
  18. Hello everyone. I just signed up to this forum. I look forward to learning a lot and interacting with fellow candle makers! Little background; My wife and I are just getting started making candles. We live Right outside of Atlanta Ga. Once we perfect making them we are going to teach our 7 year old daughter how make the candles. Eventually we plan to let her do all the candle making, coloring, labeling, scent choices, etc. So candle making will be her hobby and her business, she is super excited about it. We’ve only made 2 candles so far. Products just arrived 4 days ago. We are using gb444 soy wax, fragrance oils from Aztec(that’s where all our products came from), 8oz patio jars, and wi-767 wicks. We test burned 1 with 24hr cure time(probably should have waited longer from everything I’ve read)and not getting strong hot throw at all. We are going to let the other one cure for 1 week. We added FO at 185 degrees and poured at 135. Candles look perfect and cold throw is good. We used 1.25oz of FO in 16oz of wax(both measured by weight and not volume) We plan to test pour a dozen or so tomorrow. Using different FO/wax ratios, different pour temps, different temps we add oil, etc. We are open to any advice, suggestions, and/or criticism. We are only four days into candle making so all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ben
  19. I have tried so many wicks but not sure why the flame of my candle just blows out like in 15 mins and also I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong the kind of jar I’m using is a Square mason 8oz glass jar. I’m not sure what kind of wick should I buy from amazon 😓
  20. Ive been asked to make a Donut scented candle /wax melts. Any good ones out there - I saw some on Just Scent but not sure about any of them. Do they actually smell like a donut or are they more of a birthday cake smell with cinnamon or pumpkin or a jam/jelly scent added to it ? I think they're looking for a BBW type ??? The same person asked for a snow scent ??? WTH - what does snow smell like ??? Oh geez - I don't even know where do begin this lol ! Any guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  21. Hi everybody I 'm bigginer in candle making. I make candle with parrafin. my mold is alluminum. My candle not get out of mold easily although I put in freezer for 10mintuse. I forced to melt it. when I make in pvc mold I don't have problem . please guide me about what is my fault and what temprature i should use and why this happen for my candle. Thanks
  22. Hi everyone, I recently start making parrafin pillar, but it failed every time. Some strange mark like cauliflower always left on the surface and some wax were also sticked on the mould, however Candles can pulled out easily. I poured wax around 100 degree, no fragrance, wax also got additives. I've tried changed different moulds but same result. I also tried to preheat the mould as now is winter time(Australia), but still the same. I don't know what was wrong. Anyone can help? Much appreciated!
  23. Here’s an example of the experimenting I’ve been doing: the slime(d) pillar! 2” x 3.5”, using plain old dyed paraffin (no additives). The pillar itself was just poured like any pillar. The slime was added after by pouring that lovely snotty colored wax at a cooler temp (I didn’t record the temp at the time, but it was right around when a skin started developing on the surface of the wax.
  24. These are today’s trials in wax! The original test was to try a two-toned pillar, but I got impatient so I tried for an intentional bleed. So the test kind of worked on that one. I’m going to spend a little time next week just focusing on one mold a day for testing; using the different sized molds just makes it too confusing!
  25. Does anyone have any opinions of Wellington Fragrance Oils? I am new to candlemaking and purchased several fragrances from Wellington and have been mixing them in GW 415 and 464 and have struggled with hot throw mainly. Does anyone have any experience with Wellington fragrances? Trying to figure out if I should be buying fragrances from somewhere else. Thanks!
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