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Jcandleattic

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Everything posted by Jcandleattic

  1. Those are so pretty Trappeur!! As long as the embellishments are well away from the opening of the jar, they should be okay. If made properly, the flame will not jump out of the jar and light the outside on fire - only if the embellishment is in the way of the flame - so just keep it away from the opening. If the jar gets too hot for the embellishments, then it's not a proper jar to burn a candle in IMO.
  2. What wax will you be using? That is just as important and will determine the wick/size you need as well. The wax and additives I use, in a jar that size, I would start with a 44-24-18z - if that ended up too big, I'd try the 36-24-24z wick. But that's for the type of wax I use.
  3. People blend for various reasons, and can be all of those you mentioned. When I blend it is usually because of burn characteristics and throw. The reasons are as individual as the person blending.
  4. When I first started doing shows, I bought the kraft bags with handles like the one attached. But that got expensive quick, so now I just use kraft paper lunch sacks.
  5. oops, didn't see the diameter of the candle, sorry. I assumed it was a 3" diameter. For a 2" diameter an 18ply should work well. As flicker said, it's a small candle, which would equal a small throw.
  6. I love it. I think it looks GREAT - but your soaps always do!!
  7. I just love your work Vicky - so pretty!
  8. Looks really good! I wish I could smell it! I love citrus-y scents.
  9. The only reason I don't like Lounge Lizard is because my ex used to be a CB radio'r and that's what they would call the whores at the truck stops. LMAO So to me, it doesn't scream CLV... But I do like Twisted Coconut or Twisted Lime.
  10. Not Candybee, but yes, C&S is Candles and Supplies (.net) and they have the only Candy Corn/Honey Vanilla I will use. I love it. I use a lot of their oils, and haven't been disappointed in any I've gotten so far (except Hot & Bothered - I did NOT like that one. LOL but it was nice and strong, just not a scent I liked.)
  11. I include a "for best results" for all my candles. I also include on this what could potentially and typically "go wrong" with improper burning - which includes the warnings that are already on the warning/caution labels. I have no idea if people read them but I do include it with every candle I sell.
  12. I use 24ply flat braid in my 4625 pillars and I get a great throw and a perfect burn with it. However, I don't use vybar at all in that wax (it's already got vybar pre-blended and I'm afraid to bind my FO) and I only use stearic if I'm trying for a rustic. An 18ply fb is too small in my opinion for a 3" round pillar in the 4625, and that's probably why there is no throw with that wick.
  13. It depends. If there wasn't a full scent load to begin with then yes, but wax will only hold a certain amount of fragrance and additives and once you max those %'s out, it will start weeping or binding up.
  14. I put "I'm an OTHER" because I hate patchouli. I just really don't like the smell, so I don't bother with it. Sorry.
  15. Skill level - Beginner to intermediate due to the layering aspect and being familiar with pouring pillars Pillar wax – this can be any type of pillar wax – either a blend, or straight paraffin. *NOTE- I have used IGI4625 and MP140 Pre-production blend wax – both with very similar results. With a straight paraffin you might want to add some sort of additives to keep it from mottling or being too rustic looking. You want them to be smooth and creamy looking. – I have never made these using a soy blend or straight soy so I cannot speak to the outcome, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with soy. As long as it’s a pillar wax – and can be molded. Mold – any metal pillar mold will work – I do not recommend plastic or polycarbonate molds as the scent tends to pit the plastic - I am using a conical metal mold for this due to the shape, it better represents a candy corn I believe. Wick - however you would normally wick the mold you are using, and whatever wick size works for the size candle you are making with the type of wax you are using is the wick you want to use. (to wick my molds, I use flat braided wicks and a homemade “jiffy wicker” system - explained within this tutorial) Scent - optional - I like my candy corns to smell like a candy corn so I will be using a Honey Vanilla/Candy Corn scent I get from Candles and Supplies Candle Dye - I find that liquid candle dyes work much better due to the fluid nature of the liquids vs. blocks that you have to melt. The blocks don’t disperse nearly as easily. Melt pot - this can be a double boiler or a presto pot. Whatever you are familiar with using to melt your wax. Pour pot - this is whatever you normally use to pour your wax into your mold with. If you use your presto pot for this, it might be easier to get/make and use a separate pour pot. Scale - to weigh out the wax you need and also scent if you use it. Additives - this is optional - only use additives if you normally use additives for your particular pillar wax you have chosen to use.*NOTE - I will be using the MP140 Pre-production wax for this tutorial which is a paraffin blend that requires no additives, so I will skip this part. If you are using additives, add them whenever you normally would for your pillars. Stir stick - To stir wax, scent and color. I use the handle of a wooden spoon. I’ve been using it for 14 years, and it hasn’t failed me yet. Skewer - To poke relief holes Heat Gun - Optional - it’s handy for cleanup Griddle or leveler - to level candle while still in mold Paper towels - optional but very helpful for clean-up Embed or tart mold(s) - optional but can be helpful Pliers - optional - I need them to undo the wick from the mold once the candle is ready to be unmolded Step 1: Weigh out your wax. Weigh out enough to fill your mold ⅓ of the way. I am going to be making 3 pillars at a time. For measuring purposes and ease of scenting each layer, I will use 8 oz of wax. Because each layer is a different color, I will be weighing out, melting and pouring 8oz of wax 3 times. Add wax to your melt pot and melt wax Step 2: As your wax is melting, weigh out your scent and set aside. Also prep your mold with wick. Since this is 8oz wax, I will be using .5 oz scent. Here is the homemade jiffy wicker system I use for wicking my pillars. It’s easy to make, just create a slip knot at one end of the wicking, so when pulling the long end it does not come undone, use a piece of craft foam cut into a square, and a wick tab.Then thread them all together. It will end up at the bottom of the mold and I put a wick bar across the top of the mold to secure the wick. Step 3: Determine your colors and get them ready. I use Peaks liquid candle dyes. For this particular candle I am using the following colors - Orange and Yellow. For the white, I am not using any color for the wax. Beware - this is a vanilla scent and can discolor your wax. Over the years, I have had them go to a darker off-white color but never anything darker than that. I don’t bother with a stabilizer, but if you want yours to stay pristine white, you might want to invest in one. Step 4: Once your wax is melted pour out of melt pot into the pour pot. Add scent as you normally would, but do not color. The first layer will be the top of your candle so you want to leave it white. Pour to the ⅓ mark of your mold. (I have my molds marked to where they should be poured too with a magic marker on the outside of the mold as you can see in the previous picture of my molds) Step 5: You will most likely have some wax left over from this first pour. This wax will be used again in the 3rd layer, so you can either set aside in your pour pot to melt later, or pour into embed molds. I like to pour mine into embed molds. Clean out your pour pot with paper towels to prepare for the second layer Step 6: While you first layer is setting up to be firm enough to hold the 2nd layer, now I weigh out my second layer wax and scent. Also prepare to color this layer orange. Once the first layer is ready to hold the second layer and your wax is melted, pour into your pour pot, scent and color. I use 1-2 drops (2 drops MAX) for this. The wax I use takes color very well, and if I use more than the 2 drops the middle orange layer gets way too dark. For these candles, I used 1 drop. This second layer (using the molds I use) will use all of this 8oz of wax, so no need to pour any extra into an embed mold. (See Step 10 if you have leftover wax) Step 7: Get ready for your 3rd layer. Your layers should look like this before pouring the next layer - For your third layer, repeat Step 6, but add the leftover wax from your first pour as well. Color with yellow and pour (I use 2 drops since yellow is a lighter color) Step 8: When your 3rd layer is set enough, poke relief holes Step 9: Once the candle is solid enough - finish off your candle with a repour. I take my wick bars off to do my repour, it makes it much easier and smoother so not as much leveling needs to be done at the end. Step 10: Set aside and let cool. You can either let them cool naturally, or after they are solid but still warm, you can place them in the refrigerator for a few minutes. If I am making a lot and on a deadline, I will place them in the refrigerator, if not, I let them cool naturally. Just do not freeze them. They could crack and split at the layers. Once the re-pour is done, if you still have wax left over (I never do at this point) you can pour it into an embed mold or tart molds to make wax melts. Step 12: Once cool, trim excess wick from taking the wick bar off, but don’t un-mold yet. - This part of the candle will most likely be bumpy and/or uneven. Warm a griddle (or whatever you normally use to level your candles) and level the candle. Clean griddle with a paper towel. Once that is done, undo wick and un-mold candle. For mine, it is sometimes difficult to get the slip knot untied, due to leaking wax or being too tightly tied, so I use a pair of pliers to untie the slip knot in the wick. Step 13: CONGRATULATIONS - At this point you should have beautiful Candy Corn scented pillar candles. The only step left now is to trim wicks, take a pic, post it, and enjoy the accolades of your beautiful creation!
  16. I like Coconut Banana Blast from Peak, but use a stabilizer. It turns a dark brown if not.
  17. To me straight CLV smells like a plain margarita, so I would probably name it Margarita's on the Beach, or Margarita's at the Coast or something along those lines if you want a beach/coast name.
  18. Yes, what Dave said. Some scent retention will be lost, especially if you remelt at a high temperature. If making new candles, it would be best to calculate how much your jars will hold and only scent that amount of wax at a time. Remelting unscented wax however, should not pose any problems.
  19. Do you cut with it on it's side? That helps with the drag marks.
  20. I agree with Candybee - looks like the 12 is performing better.
  21. They are located in California - ESTABLISHMENT: September 1973 Uchida of America, Corp 3535 Del Amo Blvd., Torrance, CA 90503 Tel:(310)793-2200 or (800)541-5877 Fax:(310)793-2210 or (800)229-7017
  22. I use Chrome. Seems to work fine, and it's fast. I've never tried others, but have never had too.
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