Jcandleattic

Does anyone have any suggestions for a nice inexpensive (or even free) photo editing software? I think that would help me with my pictures and I'd be able to start using my dSLR. I will have to look - it may come with an editing software, but I don't' think so... I've had the camera for well over a year and haven't even used it. (well, I tested it and couldn't take very good pics - they were okay, but I think a good editor might be the key for me) I haven't used my camera because I'm pretty intimidated by it. And this is coming from someone who took 4 years of photography, worked for a camera retailer and also a camera repair shop - SMH - I'm too old for all the new technology to really stick in my brain I guess - and it's frustrating!! LOL

no pic. (but saw it on FB and it's GORGEOUS!!)

Hmm, my post seems to have disappeared or I never successfully posted it. (*shrugs*, IDK) Anyway, I basically said the same thing as Candybee. If it's a spa and they are asking for Tea Tree I would bet they mean and want the EO - however, besides aromatherapy (which tea tree is not really known for) I don't think ANY benefits will come from a candle. And honestly, I've never seen or heard of a tea tree FO myself. I'm also like Candybee as in, I don't use EO's in my candles. I just can never get a good throw with them, but I do only use paraffin, not soy, so that might be why - IDK.

Yeah, 100% OO can literally take months to cure. Most people make their 100% OO holiday soaps in January so they are ready the following December.

Vybar can help the scent load, but I feel it doesn't necessarily help increase it by much, just helps the capacity it can hold, hold it better. However, using too much vybar, even just a few grains, can bind your scent and then you will get no throw at all. As OldGlory said previously stearic will help, also, and will make the wax a bit less brittle, but harder, and will make it more opaque.

I find my all CO recipe traces faster than my regular recipe. A nice slow to trace recipe might be a 100% OO or 100% lard. The two (and only two) times I made 100% lard soap it took FOREVER to trace - so that might be a good one depending on if you have qualms about using lard. I've made a 75/25 oo/co soap and I had plenty of time to swirl with that recipe also. (I've made 100% OO but it's been a very long time since and I don't really remember how it went as far as speed, but I"m sure I had a lot of time to play) Also this is from my experience soaping at RT.

That has been my experience.

Thank you! This gets me excited for the snowflake mold. I may add some peppermint to this scent to give it an umpf, and make it a bit different for the different type of embeds.

Thank you all. If I can get some better pics I will post them. These ones really do not do them justice. And OMG does it smell delightful!

I really love them. Just remember though, they look MUCH better in person. I am a TERRIBLE photographer and I took about 30 pics of these things and these are the best ones. (How sad is that??) The green did mute down, but they are greener in person than in the pics. Smells great!

Maybe contact square themselves and see what they suggest? Other than that, I don't know... I don't have an iPhone, so ??? I am of no use with that phone, but Square should be able to direct you in the right direction. Should being the operative word...

I love my Mariners soap! (100% CO) but, just like a Castile (100% OO) the longer the cure, the better the bar. I won't use mine before they have cured for at least 4 months, most of the time, 6-8. (just like with Castile) And they will last FOREVER... I make mine in individual molds because to get a clean cut I have to cut while still warm or else they will be too hard to cut. And harsh really is debatable and subjective. I have incredibly oily skin (always have) so a nice cleansing bar works wonders for my skin. Also, when cured long enough with a 20% SF - IMO they are just as mild as any 6-8% SF mixed oil soap. Good luck and let us know what you think.

Yes, what pcbrook said. Candle Science had the CSN's specifically developed for them to use in Palm waxes, but have since made the decision to not sell Palm waxes over the controversy, but you can use them in other natural waxes.

I saw that same mold at Amazon, but it just wasn't exactly what I was looking for. I really think that if the purple one isn't too small in diameter, it will work perfect. I like the look of it from the picture... Now the snowman mold I'd be interested in. I haven't looked yet. I love snowmen! I decorate my whole house in a snowman theme during the holiday's. They are my favorite...

Yep, I just went and looked - I only paid $9.00 for my 4oz of Snow Witch and the order was put in on the 10th. Snow Witch ~ fragrance oil - 4 oz Fulfilled Sep 11 WTC-666 $ 9.00 1 $ 9.00 So either something is screwy with their pricing OR they really jacked up their prices. I will have to email them, because I would like to reorder, but as I said above, NO WAY will I pay $15.32 for 4oz. That is just insane..

A little. I whisked instead of stickblended and it still got thick quicker than I expected. But I was able to still layer and swirl and embed the candies and M&P embeds...

I just went and looked because I didn't remember them being over the top expensive. Hmm, I wonder if they are having problems with their website. I did NOT pay $16 for my 4oz bottle. I would NEVER pay that much. I'd have to look at my invoice, but I think it was right around $9.50-$10.50 for the 4oz I have. (which was still pretty expensive) I dont' care how much I love a scent, I refuse to pay more than right around that for 4oz and rarely more than $20 for a lb. I'm way to cheap for that...

I can't wait to cut it!! This scent is becoming one of my favorites...

Of course I will. And when my snowflake mold comes in I will be making another one, using the snowflakes as embeds, coloring white/blue instead of the white/green like this one.

I couldn't wait for my snowflake mold so made Christmas trees instead. It's still going to be called Rocky Mountain snow, and I hope it looks like it's snowing in the trees and "forest floor" Here are the pics from start to finish. I had to make the trees out of M&P first. I can't wait to cut it - It smells wonderful! And I only used .5oz ppo with it and it's strong as ever!!

I don't normally use EO's but first thing you would want to make sure of is if it's indigestible. Skin safe, and lip safe are 2 very different animals. If it were me, I'd stay on the safe side and just use flavor oils, but that's me. I'm sure others will come along and help you out...

the benefits would be using a pillar wax for the hardness, but the container wax for the scent throw. There are other benefits but those are the main ones.

Skill level - Beginner to intermediate due to the layering aspect and being familiar with pouring pillars Pillar wax – this can be any type of pillar wax – either a blend, or straight paraffin. *NOTE- I have used IGI4625 and MP140 Pre-production blend wax – both with very similar results. With a straight paraffin you might want to add some sort of additives to keep it from mottling or being too rustic looking. You want them to be smooth and creamy looking. – I have never made these using a soy blend or straight soy so I cannot speak to the outcome, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with soy. As long as it’s a pillar wax – and can be molded.Mold – any metal pillar mold will work – I do not recommend plastic or polycarbonate molds as the scent tends to pit the plastic - I am using a conical metal mold for this due to the shape, it better represents a candy corn I believe. Wick - however you would normally wick the mold you are using, and whatever wick size works for the size candle you are making with the type of wax you are using is the wick you want to use. (to wick my molds, I use flat braided wicks and a homemade “jiffy wicker” system - explained within this tutorial) Scent - optional - I like my candy corns to smell like a candy corn so I will be using a Honey Vanilla/Candy Corn scent I get from Candles and SuppliesCandle Dye - I find that liquid candle dyes work much better due to the fluid nature of the liquids vs. blocks that you have to melt. The blocks don’t disperse nearly as easily.Melt pot - this can be a double boiler or a presto pot. Whatever you are familiar with using to melt your wax.Pour pot - this is whatever you normally use to pour your wax into your mold with. If you use your presto pot for this, it might be easier to get/make and use a separate pour pot.Scale - to weigh out the wax you need and also scent if you use it.Additives - this is optional - only use additives if you normally use additives for your particular pillar wax you have chosen to use.*NOTE - I will be using the MP140 Pre-production wax for this tutorial which is a paraffin blend that requires no additives, so I will skip this part. If you are using additives, add them whenever you normally would for your pillars.Stir stick - To stir wax, scent and color. I use the handle of a wooden spoon. I’ve been using it for 14 years, and it hasn’t failed me yet. Skewer - To poke relief holes Heat Gun - Optional - it’s handy for cleanupGriddle or leveler - to level candle while still in moldPaper towels - optional but very helpful for clean-upEmbed or tart mold(s) - optional but can be helpfulPliers - optional - I need them to undo the wick from the mold once the candle is ready to be unmolded Step 1: Weigh out your wax. Weigh out enough to fill your mold ⅓ of the way. I am going to be making 3 pillars at a time. For measuring purposes and ease of scenting each layer, I will use 8 oz of wax. Because each layer is a different color, I will be weighing out, melting and pouring 8oz of wax 3 times. Add wax to your melt pot and melt wax Step 2: As your wax is melting, weigh out your scent and set aside. Also prep your mold with wick. Since this is 8oz wax, I will be using .5 oz scent. Here is the homemade jiffy wicker system I use for wicking my pillars. It’s easy to make, just create a slip knot at one end of the wicking, so when pulling the long end it does not come undone, use a piece of craft foam cut into a square, and a wick tab.Then thread them all together. It will end up at the bottom of the mold and I put a wick bar across the top of the mold to secure the wick. Step 3: Determine your colors and get them ready. I use Peaks liquid candle dyes. For this particular candle I am using the following colors - Orange and Yellow. For the white, I am not using any color for the wax. Beware - this is a vanilla scent and can discolor your wax. Over the years, I have had them go to a darker off-white color but never anything darker than that. I don’t bother with a stabilizer, but if you want yours to stay pristine white, you might want to invest in one. Step 4: Once your wax is melted pour out of melt pot into the pour pot. Add scent as you normally would, but do not color. The first layer will be the top of your candle so you want to leave it white. Pour to the ⅓ mark of your mold. (I have my molds marked to where they should be poured too with a magic marker on the outside of the mold as you can see in the previous picture of my molds) Step 5: You will most likely have some wax left over from this first pour. This wax will be used again in the 3rd layer, so you can either set aside in your pour pot to melt later, or pour into embed molds. I like to pour mine into embed molds. Clean out your pour pot with paper towels to prepare for the second layer Step 6: While you first layer is setting up to be firm enough to hold the 2nd layer, now I weigh out my second layer wax and scent. Also prepare to color this layer orange. Once the first layer is ready to hold the second layer and your wax is melted, pour into your pour pot, scent and color. I use 1-2 drops (2 drops MAX) for this. The wax I use takes color very well, and if I use more than the 2 drops the middle orange layer gets way too dark. For these candles, I used 1 drop. This second layer (using the molds I use) will use all of this 8oz of wax, so no need to pour any extra into an embed mold. (See Step 10 if you have leftover wax) Step 7: Get ready for your 3rd layer. Your layers should look like this before pouring the next layer - For your third layer, repeat Step 6, but add the leftover wax from your first pour as well. Color with yellow and pour (I use 2 drops since yellow is a lighter color) Step 8: When your 3rd layer is set enough, poke relief holes Step 9: Once the candle is solid enough - finish off your candle with a repour. I take my wick bars off to do my repour, it makes it much easier and smoother so not as much leveling needs to be done at the end. Step 10: Set aside and let cool. You can either let them cool naturally, or after they are solid but still warm, you can place them in the refrigerator for a few minutes. If I am making a lot and on a deadline, I will place them in the refrigerator, if not, I let them cool naturally. Just do not freeze them. They could crack and split at the layers. Once the re-pour is done, if you still have wax left over (I never do at this point) you can pour it into an embed mold or tart molds to make wax melts. Step 12: Once cool, trim excess wick from taking the wick bar off, but don’t un-mold yet. - This part of the candle will most likely be bumpy and/or uneven. Warm a griddle (or whatever you normally use to level your candles) and level the candle. Clean griddle with a paper towel. Once that is done, undo wick and un-mold candle. For mine, it is sometimes difficult to get the slip knot untied, due to leaking wax or being too tightly tied, so I use a pair of pliers to untie the slip knot in the wick. Step 13: CONGRATULATIONS - At this point you should have beautiful Candy Corn scented pillar candles. The only step left now is to trim wicks, take a pic, post it, and enjoy the accolades of your beautiful creation! Click here to view the article

I like #2. I like the contrast between the color of the trees and the name. (that's why I like it better than #4) I also agree with everyone else, that the font needs to stay the same as your day-to-day labels, to associate that as your brand.

No worries at all!!! I did go ahead and get that purple one, and it should be here sometime this next week, so next weekend I should be able to make my vision happen!