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  • Jcandleattic

    Skill level - Beginner to intermediate due to the layering aspect and being familiar with pouring pillars

    • Pillar wax this can be any type of pillar wax – either a blend, or straight paraffin. *NOTE- I have used IGI4625 and MP140 Pre-production blend wax – both with very similar results. With a straight paraffin you might want to add some sort of additives to keep it from mottling or being too rustic looking. You want them to be smooth and creamy looking. – I have never made these using a soy blend or straight soy so I cannot speak to the outcome, but I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with soy. As long as it’s a pillar wax – and can be molded.
    • Moldany metal pillar mold will work – I do not recommend plastic or polycarbonate molds as the scent tends to pit the plastic - I am using a conical metal mold for this due to the shape, it better represents a candy corn I believe.
    • Wick - however you would normally wick the mold you are using, and whatever wick size works for the size candle you are making with the type of wax you are using is the wick you want to use. (to wick my molds, I use flat braided wicks and a homemade “jiffy wicker” system - explained within this tutorial)
    • Scent - optional - I like my candy corns to smell like a candy corn so I will be using a Honey Vanilla/Candy Corn scent I get from Candles and Supplies
    • Candle Dye - I find that liquid candle dyes work much better due to the fluid nature of the liquids vs. blocks that you have to melt. The blocks don’t disperse nearly as easily.
    • Melt pot - this can be a double boiler or a presto pot. Whatever you are familiar with using to melt your wax.
    • Pour pot - this is whatever you normally use to pour your wax into your mold with. If you use your presto pot for this, it might be easier to get/make and use a separate pour pot.
    • Scale - to weigh out the wax you need and also scent if you use it.
    • Additives - this is optional - only use additives if you normally use additives for your particular pillar wax you have chosen to use.*NOTE - I will be using the MP140 Pre-production wax for this tutorial which is a paraffin blend that requires no additives, so I will skip this part. If you are using additives, add them whenever you normally would for your pillars.
    • Stir stick - To stir wax, scent and color. I use the handle of a wooden spoon. I’ve been using it for 14 years, and it hasn’t failed me yet. :)
    • Skewer - To poke relief holes
    • Heat Gun - Optional - it’s handy for cleanup
    • Griddle or leveler - to level candle while still in mold
    • Paper towels - optional but very helpful for clean-up
    • Embed or tart mold(s) - optional but can be helpful
    • Pliers - optional - I need them to undo the wick from the mold once the candle is ready to be unmolded

    Step 1:

    Weigh out your wax. Weigh out enough to fill your mold ⅓ of the way. I am going to be making 3 pillars at a time. For measuring purposes and ease of scenting each layer, I will use 8 oz of wax. Because each layer is a different color, I will be weighing out, melting and pouring 8oz of wax 3 times.



    Add wax to your melt pot and melt wax

    Step 2:

    As your wax is melting, weigh out your scent and set aside. Also prep your mold with wick. Since this is 8oz wax, I will be using .5 oz scent.

    Here is the homemade jiffy wicker system I use for wicking my pillars. It’s easy to make, just create a slip knot at one end of the wicking, so when pulling the long end it does not come undone, use a piece of craft foam cut into a square, and a wick tab.Then thread them all together. It will end up at the bottom of the mold and I put a wick bar across the top of the mold to secure the wick.





    Step 3:

    Determine your colors and get them ready. I use Peaks liquid candle dyes. For this particular candle I am using the following colors - Orange and Yellow. For the white, I am not using any color for the wax. Beware - this is a vanilla scent and can discolor your wax. Over the years, I have had them go to a darker off-white color but never anything darker than that. I don’t bother with a stabilizer, but if you want yours to stay pristine white, you might want to invest in one.

    Step 4:

    Once your wax is melted pour out of melt pot into the pour pot. Add scent as you normally would, but do not color. The first layer will be the top of your candle so you want to leave it white.


    Pour to the ⅓ mark of your mold. (I have my molds marked to where they should be poured too with a magic marker on the outside of the mold as you can see in the previous picture of my molds)


    Step 5:

    You will most likely have some wax left over from this first pour. This wax will be used again in the 3rd layer, so you can either set aside in your pour pot to melt later, or pour into embed molds. I like to pour mine into embed molds. Clean out your pour pot with paper towels to prepare for the second layer


    Step 6:

    While you first layer is setting up to be firm enough to hold the 2nd layer, now I weigh out my second layer wax and scent. Also prepare to color this layer orange.


    Once the first layer is ready to hold the second layer and your wax is melted, pour into your pour pot, scent and color. I use 1-2 drops (2 drops MAX) for this. The wax I use takes color very well, and if I use more than the 2 drops the middle orange layer gets way too dark. For these candles, I used 1 drop.


    This second layer (using the molds I use) will use all of this 8oz of wax, so no need to pour any extra into an embed mold. (See Step 10 if you have leftover wax)

    Step 7:

    Get ready for your 3rd layer.

    Your layers should look like this before pouring the next layer -


    For your third layer, repeat Step 6, but add the leftover wax from your first pour as well. Color with yellow and pour (I use 2 drops since yellow is a lighter color)

    Step 8:

    When your 3rd layer is set enough, poke relief holes



    Step 9:

    Once the candle is solid enough - finish off your candle with a repour. I take my wick bars off to do my repour, it makes it much easier and smoother so not as much leveling needs to be done at the end.


    Step 10:

    Set aside and let cool. You can either let them cool naturally, or after they are solid but still warm, you can place them in the refrigerator for a few minutes. If I am making a lot and on a deadline, I will place them in the refrigerator, if not, I let them cool naturally. Just do not freeze them. They could crack and split at the layers.

    Once the re-pour is done, if you still have wax left over (I never do at this point) you can pour it into an embed mold or tart molds to make wax melts.


    Step 12:

    Once cool, trim excess wick from taking the wick bar off, but don’t un-mold yet. - This part of the candle will most likely be bumpy and/or uneven.

    Warm a griddle (or whatever you normally use to level your candles) and level the candle.


    Clean griddle with a paper towel.

    Once that is done, undo wick and un-mold candle.

    For mine, it is sometimes difficult to get the slip knot untied, due to leaking wax or being too tightly tied, so I use a pair of pliers to untie the slip knot in the wick.


    Step 13:


    At this point you should have beautiful Candy Corn scented pillar candles. The only step left now is to trim wicks, take a pic, post it, and enjoy the accolades of your beautiful creation!


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