StanfordP

Try to think of Holiday experiences to help generate new ideas. Agreed that the baking spices/fir/pine get old quick, BUT there's no denying they sell!! Try taking some of your year-round best sellers and mixing in a spice. You can take any scent and make it holiday. For example, a grapefruit scent that does well in the summer--mix with allspice, and you've got candied citrus. Or, pear blossom and rosemary. We did great last year by bringing in some herbal scents.

Yeaahhh... Good luck. As someone who loves "different" fragrances, I can tell you some of those are gonna be hard to find. I'd say mostly because their names are likely different here. For example, the CS White Tea scent smells pretty close to the aloe drink. But never would've known that otherwise.

Fragrance oil

Are are the stats of your process? (wax, FO, temps, dye, etc?)

Add to what @NightLight said... A couple of years ago is a long time. Even candles have expiration dates. I liken it to leaving food in the freezer. Over time, it's going to get frostbite from back and forth changes to the environment, even seemingly subtle changes. I personally don't place expectations on candle performance after a year.

I had them make a dupe before. They need an actual sample of the oil. Cannot pull it out of a candle. And, the process isn't 100%. They claim to have a 98% success rate with duplications, but I don't think that accurate... I suspect it's a lot lower than that.

It's been like Christmas for us. Facebook and instagram is where it's at. Because everyone is at home browsing to pass the time. And a $20 candle is not a huge investment to feel good. Glad @GailC you're having an uptick... It's def a good feeling!

Sink holes are caused by the wax on top cooling faster than the wax below. When wax cools, it contracts, so the wax underneath the surface is contracting (cooling) after the wax on the surface. I'd consider preheating your wick setter. When you place a cold metal wick setter on a hot candle, the first thing it does is draws the heat off the surface (which then makes the surface cool faster). Even better solution: Don't use metal.

lol, all good. Wick down means smaller diameter wick. I could tell you what I use, but it too may not work for you. Get the wick sample pack. Test with wax only (no dye, no fragrance). When you find a wick that works retest with dye only, then again with fragrance. Test all variables. Once you understand how your variables affect your candles, you develop a sense for how to manipulate them to your benefit. based on your pics, looks like you have too much beeswax (which isn’t needed for learning purposes). for your wax, start out with 464 only. Once you’ve mastered it, then get crafty. As to your other questions, literally all variables (including outside humidity and temp) affect your candles. Despite popular opinion, candling is NOT cheap. It’s takes hundreds of hours testing and maybe thousands of dollars to get to the perfect candle. keep at it. It’s frustrating, but fun too when you get results!

Oh man... their website though! 😅

Tried the Bluebell -- it was meh. The magnolia is decent, but smells too fake. LOVE their lily of the valley. Though past few orders from JS have been extremely variable from a quality perspective. So much so, I've started researching new suppliers.

Hey Josh! Welcome to the crazy world of candle making! You'll quickly realize candle making is easier said than done. But, it's fun and engaging. Can't speak for most people here, but I started making in the kitchen and now it's a fully functioning business with employees. So, never know where things will go! Good luck.

I wouldn't place too much emphasis on aesthetics... It's important, but scent throw is most important. A few minor cracks don't really matter. I use a coco/soy blend in my candles and have the same issue with pulling away at the wick. Easy solution: press it down with your finger. Can't even tell. And once the candle starts burning, any other aesthetic problems literally melt away. I pour mine at 175. Layout the vessels next to each other tightly. And set the wicks at the absolute last minute. Good luck!

Agreed. My go-to box size is a 10x7x5 which is approx the size of the Regional Rate Box A from USPS. Single items usually fit in a 4x4x4 mailer. I can usually get away with first class shipping on single items (~$3.50), but going up to the Box A size is around $7-8. Cross country can easily be $8-15. Cross country rates are better with UPS. And, totally worth paying for a shipping service with negotiated rates. Paying full retail will eat you alive!

Agree with @TallTayl on all points. 1. ECO14 is way small for use in 16oz tin (I'd consider wicking down even more and double wicking it). And too big for 9oz. Most suppliers have wick sample packs--cannot under estimate the value of those. 2. 464 is a great introductory wax because you don't really need to mess with it to get good results... But, start messing with it, and you'll realize its harder to work with. I'd focus less on creating your own wax blend right now, and more on finding a blend that works for you. Much cheaper in the long run. And if you want stronger throws, consider adding in some vybar. Once you start understanding the pros and cons of each wax, and how they work together, then you can start experimenting with your own blend. Took me years to craft up my blend, and it's always a work in progress. 3. Coconut oil in candles--not a fan. It doesn't have the same results as coconut wax. It's cheaper, yes. But, I'm not sure it's having the effect you're looking for. 4. Experiment with your temperatures. Mixing fragrance AT 180 requires heating wax more, but helps bind the molecules together. For 464, as long as you keep the temp below 200, you should be fine. I've also been adding my wax to the fragrance oil (not the other way around)... does it help? Time will tell... Moral of the story: test, test ,test... Then test some more!

Don't mind at all... My online store is hosted through shopify, and I take advantage of their reduced shipping rates. For the most part, the consumer pays for this, BUT consumers nowadays have fallen victim to the Amazon effect (expecting free shipping). So, I created a "no rush" shipping option. Pay a flat fee for reduce cost, and I take my time to get the order out the door. And, I run free shipping campaigns occasionally--have one going on right now. All the carriers work on a dimensional shipping model now. It [relatively speaking] no longer matters how much a package weighs, but the size of the box. This is where trial and error come in. Gotta figure out what your average order is going to weigh and which type of box it'll fit in, considering that most consumers will place an order for multiple items (requiring bigger box). Plus the cost and weight of the box and packaging. If you have a robust enough online shop, your store should be tracking the analytics to make figuring all this out fairly easy. Prior to shopify, I used shippingeasy.com. I tested out a few other platforms, but liked SE the best. Shipping, regardless of who pays for it, is NOT CHEAP. I dread looking at my shipping bill each month. But, cost of doing business! 🤷‍♂️

I would try ordering the sample size first. I notice that AFI's oils are more diluted than CS (for instance). Smells the same OOB, but performs way less

I used to LOVE Meadow from Candle Science, but alas, they discontinued it. Save on Scent has a good grass scent, too, but can't recall the name.

Never heard of it. Probably wouldn't recommend. Read this forum and you can deduce how to start a candle business for free!

I would slap a round label on the lid. Could do clear and (if applied correctly) would look like it was embossed on the top. Like the hang tag idea too. For jars like that, I usually end up boxing them (bigger expense, sadly) and recreating the quilted pattern on the box label. All depends on who your market is and what they want. Edit: I think I got some samples of that jar in black. It was a nice vessel... But shipping from CA to PA is a B!

Hey everyone... my online business doubled between March and April -- it's been madness (especially since my employees can't work, and I'm cranking out candles solo). I've had some wholesale orders coming through from customers who have an online presence or are doing in-store pick-ups. My contract manufacturing clients were also banging down the door to get their orders. I talked with a marketing guy a few weeks ago, and he says that people want their comforts, and spending $15-25 on a candle isn't a huge mental or physical investment. So, we should take advantage of this time while we can. Move some inventory. Then batten down the hatches, because who knows what'll happen. Key is to remain nimble. I guess the point of the story is to keep doing what we're doing. But not really a good time to launch anything new!

I use Premier wicks, and the 775 is the most versatile of the bunch. Love it! If you’re getting 1/4” melt pool, that’s pretty spot on. Wouldn’t change that. As far a cure times go, I use the analogy of cooking a stew... the longer the ingredients have to set, the better it gets. You should do a test... make a case and burn one per week to evaluate the changes. I can 100% say that candle that has sat for a month or more smells way better than a week old one. one question though: why are you adding coconut oil?

Probably going to have to come up with your own blend if you want to mix the two. But fair warning, beeswax does not perform the same as paraffin. In all fairness, negative connotations around paraffin wax are mostly marketing by the soy industry. If you like paraffin and think its best for your candles, then stick with paraffin.

Was browsing around AFI's fragrance selections yesterday and came across THE PERFECT SCENT for a customer. BUT--it was formulated for body oils, not candles. I reached out to them to see if they could reformulate it for use in candles, and the answer was "no". But, they recommended buying a sample and testing it out. So, before I even get that far, has anyone used fragrance oils formulated for body oil in a candle? And, if yes, what were the results? Worth testing? Thanks!

My initial thought was this: it's winter, and wet spots for me happen because I pour into a cold container. In addition to everyone else's advice above, try warming your jars before you pour. It'll help slow the cooling process. Though, wet spots are inevitable.