NightLight

Redo the recipe, and keep it simple for testing. Take out the aloe and proteins. Use just the emulsifiers' oils and silicones and see how it is. If that’s a fail, take out the CC. You may not need it any way you have two very good emulsifier for detangling there. BTMS does has a fishy odor btw, you scent to cover. I always take any recipe and go for the fewest ingredients to test so it’s easier to find out the culprit that is making a fail. BTMS is kind of the gold standard for conditioners.

Beautiful containers there!

I just saw that. They did that for safety reasons so people wouldn’t accidentally open valve and let hot oil out. Any if any kids in kitchen etc. Dang! Would be perfect. I was hoping that the release valve was on side not covered.

Darn straight secure them. If the wick wanders in direction while burning and heats your glass up and cracks, that’s a dangerous situation. you don’t want customers burning a candle with a misplaced wick that burns the wax lopsided. Test candles different story that’s why they are called test. Your use only

I don’t think you want to use anything with bubble in the glass. The heat from flame can crack the glass and that would be a sorry thing. That includes any of those handblown glasses with bubble as well.

Flaming problend and parasoy excellent. My favorite over the others mentioned. 4627 is translucent, and very messy. I personally don’t like it plain, it’s better looking blended.

Love the green stuff! Also limolene for super greasy stuff and citric acid in dishwasher to break down wax and oils

Are you using the turkey fryers the new one that is rectangular and has spigot in corner' and direct heat element? I would love to know if those work for melting wax and if the heating element is safe. It seems there is a decent heat control on them. let me know please!

That’s scary. That’s why I moved to C3 and Cargill products.

I do think adding fragrance at 180 is important. It insures that all the wax and additives are fully melted and adding fragrance at that temp gives you time to really stir the fragrance well into the wax molecules. I think lots of people do not store the fragrance and blend it in well enough and that shows up as other problems when the wax sets up.

I confess to be a wax and fragrance addict and also container hoarder. I have all kinds of glass for projects, from vintage to new. I just can’t help it. 😳

Paraffin sooting is a known. You can do two things. Change your wax or change your wick. My natural wax tests all the way to the bottom in various glass don’t have soot marks. Add paraffin thensotting will occur especially high percentages. You could try making a parasoy or blending one until you get little sooting. Just a thought

I have a box of 4627. Did many blends with it but the soot did me in. I like the cleaner burning candles. Yes, I’m happy to adjust and tweak my waxes. have your tried Flaming Parasoy. That is my favorite blend with paraffin.

That’s why I decided not doing any of these mixes from suppliers and making more of a custom blend that I can adjust. Too many variables which each box, just when you think you nailed, it nails you😳

I use my presto pot as double boiler with pouring pot so I don’t have to clean it and wax and fragrance ready to pour. They are designed to go through the dishwasher and I have done that many times just to tidy up.

USPS is killing me. I can’t even figure out how to offer free shipping on things I make. Shipping east to west cost boxes going up almost a dollar.

Wood is acidic and porous. It can also degrade where metal is inert and does not degrade. Fragrance oils, plus heat and wax components can degrade wood popsicle sticks and spoons. Wood is also absorbent, metal is not. Your wax melter is metal, not wood for a reason. Glass is also inert but glass breaks and that could be a big mess in wax! Plastic also absorbs chemicals. Silicone also absorbs. Hence the alerts when making bath and body products once you use a silicone mold with fragrance oils you are not going to use it for food products! You can get Long metal spoons at the dollar store or any restaurant supply online, or Amazon. Slotted or with holes makes a great stirring spoon. These are also easily cleaned. You can’t clean wood.

You’re hardening the wax and lessening the adhesion. Try half of what you added. You can also heat your glasses that can help as well.

I wanted to love the C6 but the appearance thing stopped me right away. C6 did not pour up smooth or solidify afterburn nicely. Also the test candles I did the tops frosted badly sitting for a month. Your test candles look under wicked, as I was able to clean burn on the glass I used. I think if you want to use this for making quick candles for home it’s okay and fairly easy but it’s not great for selling.

Stainless steel slotted spoon. Helps disperse and blend fragrance. Inert so does not absorb, or interact with any candle materials. Takes heat, easily washable. I would be afraid of wood as fragrance oils, essentials can alter the wood and wax and would worry about anything going into the wax. There are long slotted spoons online, and kitchen supply stores. Larger batches I would use a stainless whisk slowly to incorporate fragrance more thoroughly.

Dawn straight on spot, let soak then wash. Resolve spray works well with lighter spots - a miracle worker.

You can wash presto pots in dish washer. If too big you can wash in sink. If in sink add super hot or boiling water with dawn dish soap to help break down the oils. You. MUST dry thoroughly.

Do not put the lid on!!! This is what I do and it keeps you from making a mess of your pot and give you an easier time pouring wax. Use the presto as a double boiler. Put about an inch of water into presto and set temp slightly above warm. Measure your wax into pouring pot. Place pouring pot into presto pot. The presto works as a safe double boiler - safe as in you’re not going to walk away and think everything is okeydokey. Wax melts, measure temp, add fragrance and pour at your required temp. Done! No messy presto pot. This method is for smaller batches, test candles, but if you have a large enough prestopot and pouring pot you are good to go. if you have wax left over from a large pour in the prestopot, turn pot on a few second and then immediately turn off the residual heat will melt the wax enough for its removal, then use pot in pot method.

FYI Article about Canon not allowing third party inks anymore so they force you to buy their inks which cost a fortune. I have a laser printer which I love to print labels and buy third party cartridges way way cheaper. Before you buy any machine research to see if they accept third party inks. Laser initial investment is higher but quality is excellent for labels. There are lots of excellent editing software online you can use to create labels. Like anything else ( hahah making candles) there is a learning curve.

Someone must have a dupe of this honey scent. This has been very popular. Any suggestions for honey. Some are awful, just like rose scents.