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strugglebrother last won the day on February 13 2019

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About strugglebrother

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  1. The one you are referring to is the Rolls Royce of candle melters. The Mark VIII. It mixes both fragrance and dye on the spot. My aim is to get one, one day! The Semi Elite is the one I wished I bought instead of the Primo melter. Coogar seem to have so much better support also. I would just mix the fragrance in the Semi Elite. Mixing it in the pouring pitcher would take a lot of time if you a doing bigger batches and kind of defeats the purpose of having a huge melter. I heat up 50 or 100lb of wax in my Primo, then mix the fragrance in the primo and pour away. I clean out the melter for the next batch when done and before the wax hardens.
  2. Apart from CSN I have had very good results with Wedo V Series wicks!
  3. Try a smaller wick, this wax should throw for you without having to overwick. I would try HTP72 or 73 or LX 16... If your flames are too big I suspect you are wicking too big... ECO wicks could actually do a really good job in this wax with certain jars also... Eco 2 to 6
  4. I'm using Rustic Escentuals also with good results and also liquid dyes from General Wax / Candlemakingsupplies.net I have heard that French Color are making good liquid dyes but I haven't had the chance to try them... http://www.frenchcolor.com/candles-air-care/
  5. Have you had any experience with the insurance that WSP is backing? My benefits from being a member previously in Soapguild has been 0 (except having them just to be able to get the insurance)
  6. Can't it just be that different room temperatures when you are burning these candles that make them perform differently. Cold weather vs warm weather?
  7. There is no wax that throws so well as 4627 unfortunately... Making it harder and whiter but keeping it's properties would be amazing...
  8. I do it but only for testing purposes, its impossible to get a wick sticker or any type of glue to stick to the bottom again as, its as you say slick.. I core the wick out and insert a new one without glue and heat gun it together... But that's only while wick testing. You could use a bigger wick clip, one that is almost as big as the bottom of the jar. Then it would hold the wick more stable, but there is more wax to core out So you might as well then carve out all the wax and remelt. Not sure if the cure cycle starts again then.. All solutions seem to lean back to a catch 22 Does 6006 change that much over time. Is it mostly soy or paraffin in it? I can't remember the ratio but if I remember its 70/30 or 30/70?
  9. Is "Crisco" something that is still considered to be helping with wetspots? It seemed to be something that was recommended about 10 years ago for eliminating this but since then I haven't heard much about it in candle making. I did try it a couple of years ago but can't remember the results from it.
  10. The wax has great appearance, mixing it with something else could just be what the doctor ordered.....
  11. HTP gives a bit more mushrooms for me than CD wicks in this wax. I usually get a mushroom so bad it's big like a fist when I get halfway down.. Like @TallTayl says... make sure you wick smaller with these waxes and don't aim for a full melt pool until much further down the vessel... HTP seems sometime to give slightly better throw, but brings other problems Here is an example picture from Candlescience's "lab notes" https://www.candlescience.com/lab-notes-igi-6046-coconut-paraffin-candle-wax-blend Look at that huge mushrooms and sooting is already happening at the beginning of the candle burn (around the rim of the candle). That must turn into a complete torch halfway down? CD24 is a HUGE wick for that wax. No wonder they are claiming good HT if they over wick that much. How will performance be at the last 50% of the candle? I'd love to see a picture of that too ! I would say this is a school example of bad wicking to me? And this is their customer recommendation....
  12. Only way to not get sooting and mushrooming is to wick down a lot with this wax which leaves you with bad hot throw as you aren't getting a proper meltpool until later down the candle. CD is better than HTP, I agree, but I still get problems with the CD wicks. CDN is the only wick who gives a clean burn, but with mediocre hot throw. Everything else with the wax is to die for, excellent looks... It's a shame
  13. HTPs and CDs will not work in that wax great at all, you will get a lot of sooting and so bad mushrooming that it affects the burn too much. Smaller CDN wicks are the one's that is recommended by IGI for that wax. Try CDN (Stabilo KST) 2,3,4,5,6,7,8 for the best results. You will not have the best throw until you burned down half of your candle unfortunately but those wicks will work from top to bottom with that wax. On it's own I have not found it to be an ideal wax for hot throw in my containers.
  14. You will be perfectly fine... Except that YOU might be a bit cold when pouring during the winter months... I live in California so temperature here can go up making finished candles "sweat" when stored which is the biggest concern being in an uncontrolled environment. Buy a couple of old fridges to store your fragrance oils in, heat during summer can destroy or shorten the life of some fragrances...
  15. If you are ordering from Lebermuth by the pound and under $500 maybe get your order in before September 3, 2019 Dear Customer, Over the past few months, we have shared information regarding the changes in the essential oil, fragrance and flavors industries. There are many contributing factors causing these changes including tariffs, international transportation strikes, crop challenges, currency fluctuations, etc. To align our business in consideration of these challenges, we have updated our ordering policies. Upcoming policy changes as of September 3, 2019: Minimum Order Policy Order minimum $500.00 (net of freight): Applies to catalog orders placed online, with Customer Service or your Account Executive Applies to manufactured (non-catalog) orders placed with Customer Service or your Account Executive There will no longer be a processing fee option for orders that do not meet the order minimum Does not apply to sample orders Quantity minimum: Manufactured products (non-catalog) 25 lbs. each Flavors is 25 lbs. each Return Authorization of Food-Grade Materials Returns must be made within 30 days. Food-grade material may not be returned unless one of the following conditions are met: An error occurred by Lebermuth in the ordering and/or shipping process. The item is unopened. The item may be opened by a facility with a food-grade level certification; however, the containers must be factory sealed with appropriate labeling. The points listed above are highlights, we encourage you to read all of Lebermuth ordering policies on our Order Information page: https://www.lebermuth.com/ordering-information. We know each of you run businesses and understand that doing so can be challenging and rewarding. As costs to operate escalate each year, we all must continue to be efficient to stay profitable. Processing larger orders is necessary for Lebermuth to maintain our level of service that you have come to know and expect. If you will be challenged to meet the new order minimum of $500, here below, are some of our valued partners that re-sell Lebermuth products that likely do not have a minimum order requirement. The Essential Oil Company https://www.essentialoil.com/ Chemistry Store https://www.chemistrystore.com/ Bulk Apothecary https://www.bulkapothecary.com/ Eternal Essence https://www.eternalessenceoils.com/ If you have any questions about these changes, Lebermuth’s Customer Service is at your service. As always, you can call us at 1-800-648-1123 or email us at info@lebermuth.com. Thank you for your business and we wish you the best of luck in achieving success! Sincerely, The Lebermuth Family
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