wthomas57

I always thought cb advanced had better throw than the others, for me anyways. But I primarily used parasoy. I have also not needed to let Q210 cure for a week or more like other soys. Never hurts of course, but it cures much faster. And yes, I am using several different FOs. The only one so far I was able to wick somewhat normally was Mac Apple. Yes I am interested in the PB version as well for melts and pillars. Eco sort of works.. but nothing like how it did in other soys. For me anyway. HTPs have beena big fail for me unfortuantely as I normally like them. Even the largest size I had 1212, wasn't big enough for a mason jar. Crazy. LX is having some hope so far but I had to use a 24 in a mason. Again, crazy. RRD has been hit or miss. It worked well in the Mac Apple though.

Here is a quick recap of my experience so far with Q210. There are positives as well as negatives: Pros: looks great burns even recongeals nicely easy to use/pour minimal shrinkage (one pour) crazy FO load, although would never use that much. CT and HT both have been good for me. Holds color well Cons: (pretty much all wicking) Wicking has been really tough. Limited types of wicks working and having to wick up a lot. Also, wicks struggle with this dense oily wax. The wicks get a build up or clump at the base where it touches the wax. It just kind of settles and collects. Sometimes enough to drown the wick, other times its the opposite in that it gets so large the flame becomes a monster and has to be extinguised. Was also hoping for better glass adhesion. Its not bad, its just not any better than what I was used to (like with 6006). I feel ecosoya advanced was significantly better. Have also noticed a few visable cracks on the outside of the wax further down the jar. No big deal, just not as visibly appealing when you see that. Its only been on a few though. I am struggling to just give up on it though. looks great and burns clean. With other soys performing terribly now and ecosoya advanced being gone.. ill keep trying. Considered blending it with some 6006 or 4630, but any addition of parrafin based waxes will impact this completely soot free candle. (not to mention not entirely soy anymore).

Your kidding?! I am not dealing with chemical stink or anything. Or weird colors. Mine has been purely about wicking. I'd press your friend a bit more and see if she can give you more details. 100% of people I have been talking to or working with are seeing the same results I am, at least in the following ways: 1) wick not fully combusting, base of wick where it hits the wax is getting clump and buildup 2) Most wicks even at the largest size available drown out. 3) Only wicks that have shows any promise at all have been RRD, ECO, wood (never trust though), and CD (once). However, even among these works that show promise, needing to wick up so large its ridculous or it drowns out later in the jar. 4) No curling of any wicks that normally do.. they turn into large fat clumps. Ok at first, but eventually get so big its crazy. I have had success with one jar and one scent with one wick. Thats much pretty much it. Ive been extensively testing non stop since the wax came out.

Sure. The entire reason everyone is looking to this wax (or other alternatives) is because of all the issues with GW 444, 415, and 464. There has been something seriously wrong with these soy waxes for a bit now. Not getting any better and suppliers and manufactures are being dodgy about it. Also, none of those performed anywhere near what Eco Advanced did (IMO). Regardless, can't comfortably use GW soy waxes anymore. Too many issues batch to batch. Its been well documented on here for a while now. So, I had hopes for this (still do). But its been a challenge thus far. I do also use parasoys which work well most of the time. But hard to beat the perfectly clean burn of this wax which is why I keep forcing the issue. I can't get a puff of black smoke or soot if I try my hardest. Lol

I have descent luck with just regular trimmers. But, I haven't found any wood wicks worth a darn

What I am finding so strange is that no matter what wick I test with, it leaves a side clump at the bast of the wick. Its almost like the wax is too dense or something to allow it to travel up and dissipate. It just collects at base of wick where it enters the wax. If nothing else, its just a very unappealing site. I have never, NEVER messed with a wax so difficult to wick. This is crazy. Lol And how the different sites are saying that tested with Eco or HTP (and they provided sizes of the wicks and jars for the test).... its just BS. I dont trust ANY of those reviews from suppliers. Its like they burned it once and said "yep, its fine". Nope, its not. :/ We need to get the collective candle makers on here to put on their testing hats and try to figure out what works (if anything) with this wax.

Anyone else been testing this new wax out? Wicking has been VERY challenging! Most wick types simply don' work (not hot enough I guess). So I have had mild luck so far with ECO and RRD. But both I have had to wick up SIGNIFICANTLY. Too much in my opinion. Anyone else have any results to post yet? I was accustomed to ECOs curling fantasically in CB Advanced. However, it just sits on this wax like a little squatty nub. Lol, sorry no idea how to describe it.

I haven't smelled what others have when burning, at all. I wonder if its due to packaging from the supplier they ordered it from. I love the wax, other than wicking do far

I have to say... having a REAL tough time wicking this wax. Everything seems to fizzle out quickly. Tried various wick types and sizes. Ecen eco 14 somehow wasnt big enough in a small mason. Anyone else having issues with wicking this stuff?

@ kdes7,I know exactly what you are referring to. They aren't the only ones with wicks who are COMPLETELY self trimming and require NO TRIMMING. These big companies have the money and resources to have figured it out. Probably proprietary materials we can't get. Goose Creek Candle is another company where their large jars have zero mushrooming and zero trimming needed. Dont smoke or soot either (at least every one Ive ever tried from them). In fact, if you try to trim them, there would be nothing left of the wick and they'd drown. You are right, its pretty amazing. Wish I had an answer for you as to how they achieve it. Yankee has made tremendous progress there as well. Ive recently bought many of their candles that behave the same way. I am happy to say, while attempting to still come off as modest, that I have been able to achieve similar in some applications. My larger jars I can get virtually self trimming requireing no trimming at all and burn like that throughout. Not all of them, but majority. That being said, the flames after re-lighting can be a bit hectic for anywhere from 5 seconds to a minute before calming down. That can lead to some smoke and soot at first sometimes. So I haven't achieved exactly what I am after yet, but getting there. Just keep testing and tweaking. If you come up with an answer to how some of these companies are getting these virtually perfect burns without ever trimming, please share. Ill do the same.

TallTayl hit it on the head. There are 2 normal ways to figure up your percentages of fragrance to oils for your batches. While talltayl prefers option 1 , I prefer option 2. Id say its about split down the middle how we all do it. I like option 2 because when I figuring up the total fill for my candles I want to know the 'total fill' or 'total pot' as talltayl put it. So Id rather just figure out what percentage of that total fill is fragrance. For example, if I am making 4 8oz candles I know I need a total of 32oz (wax and fragrance combined). Thats easiest for me to plan a batch. And if my recipes calls for 8% fragrance (through testing as an example). Then I just take 8% of that 32 to figure out how much fragrance oil I would need. In this case 32oz x .08 = 2.56oz fragrance which I round to 2.5. So, how do the manufactures intend for us to measure it? I have no idea. Usually the amounts are pretty close, but there is a difference. One thing we will ALL tell you though in agreement. Use the same measurements for everything if you can. Convert your grams to ounces or visa versa to make it easier. Doesn't make a difference which one you use. And make sure you are comparing your ounces of fragrance to ounces of wax (not pounds). Just like we always learned in school.... convert them to something common before doing the math. Oh, and be consistent with whichever you use.

I agree with tallTaly on cooler burning wick for better throw. While I would never suggest a zinc wick for soy wax like 464, zincs burn the coolest and they nearly ALWAYs have the best throw in my opinion (again dont use in soy). But the point is the same, usually cooler burning gives better throw... but you also enough hot enough for a proper burn. Finding the balance is the hard part. Also for what its worth, Ive been having to wick UP lately with soy like 464 like many others, not wick down. So who knows what the heck is going.

yah, Ill try to find them as well as I use them some too. What percentages in your parasoy blend? Ive had good luck double wicking them with rrd 29, cd and htp. Also, descent luck single wicking with CD and htp

Can you post a picture or link to the liners you are looking for? Candle looks great by the way. Have you figured out the wicking for it? Those jars can be tricky to wick sometimes

It is a tough burn.. Ive noticed as well. But haven't seen a pink tone. Also, I havent noticed chemical smell when burning. Where did you get your sample?

yah, the wax doesn't smell nice at all. however, wicking has been more of a concern so far. Just seems like constantly needing to wick up and up and up. Many wicks aren't even coming close (that worked before). They appear ok for a bit but then shrink to an itty bitty flame and fizzle out (or so small that they might as well). Eco has done ok.. but for some reason not curling like it used to so well in ECO Advanced. Anyone else having any luck wicking? I am using 8oz mason, 12oz canning jars, and tumblers for testing so far

Yep, that too.

I am not surprised we are seeing different results (for a couple reasons). It also depends on which FOs we are each using. The FOs differ in density as well. And maybe that is the difference the two of us are seeing. Or perhaps, the FO I've been using during my testing are leading to my results. So, you are right... just need to do more testing. Also, we were probably using different waxes prior as well. Which might be why we are seeing the different comparable results too. Regarding the chemically smell. I definitely did smell it in the bags and I am sure its something to do with how the wax is processed. But, I haven't noticed it in finished candle. Regarding smoking... @Waxxy are you using a presto pot or something to melt your wax? If you have any remnants or debris in your pot when you turn it on, it could smoke. Or if its heating up to fast. I start at at warm and then slowly increase it as the wax melts.

Id check another fragrance or repeat your process and double check you didn't do something inadvertently out of the norm or accidentally incorrect. And pick a scent that is a "known good". The reason I say this is... I was extremely surprised to see how strong both the CT and HT throw were in less than 24 hours. I would never use 18%.. thats hilariously ridiculous. But, I tried between 8 and 10 to just see how worked. Thats a bit more than I normally use, but I wanted to see. the CT is superior to any soy ive ever used at such a short amount of time curing. And the HT is wonderful. Never, NEVER have I had a 100% soy candle throw this way after only about 20 hours of curing. Also, I agree its super shiny and looks beautiful when burning. HOWEVER......... this wax has a big drawback so far that I have noticed. (I am sure Ill find more as I continue to test). And this particular drawback has nothing to do with performance, but with costs. The cost of the wax isn't crazy bad or anything....... But, the density of this wax is much higher than other waxes, at least that I have used. What does that mean? Well, normally when I sell a 6oz candle, the wax fills the jar all the way. (Very important to customers). When I poured 6oz of this wax it was noticeably less fill. I think at the very least, the same jar is going to now require at least 7oz. This is a problem. This means, you either take a hit to profit per candle OR increase your prices. Yes... customers are getting more candle. But they dont really know that. They compare size of jars. So when your jar cost $3 more than it did before or compared to the next candle, its going to be a problem. Very rarely are customers looking at the net ounces on a candle. And, if you dont increase your fill and leave it at the same weight (but less volume fill), customers are gonna bark at that. They will think your jipping them on the fill. I see it and hear it a lot with other vendors. All of this may sound nitpicky... but really, cost is an issue and this is a step back for us. Some won't have a problem in their market either taking the hit to their profits per sale or by increasing their price. But many will.

Ive never had a candle "go bad". However, the concern with candles sitting isn't whether or not the candle goes bad, fragrance dissipates, etc. The issue with color fading. Do you dye your candles? If so, do you use UV inhibitor. That will help prolong them, but they will still face over time when exposed to light. So if you dont plant on selling them until the following spring (which is totally fine) than keep them them in cool dark place until then. But, I'd offer a different alternative because overstock and other inventory issues has other problems (most financial ones). So, I'd prefer to move as much as I can rather than keep them until next season. Run specials and promos. Or, at fall shows Ill do a BOGO special where they buy a fall scent and they get a spring/summer one free. Something like that. Or give someone an opportunity to resell them. Sell to someone at a discounted wholesale price so you get your profits and they can resell them, use them as gifts, or whatever. You are basically selling them a big discount but with some motivating incentives. There are plenty of people out there looking to make some extra revenue towards the end of the year. Having them be a "sales rep".. in a way... to get rid of overstock benefits you both. Just a few thoughts.

While i agree and have echoed that customers care about scent and price more than anything. I do have to say that show after show, I have more and more customers asking if my candles are soy. They dont know why the want soy or why they care... but they think they do. So, they ask. Fortunately, I sell both. But still... they are asking more and more.

I totally understand. I, too, really like wood wicks. Unfortunately, I haven't found any available to us "little guys" that have the same quality and results as the proprietry kinds used by the big guys. I have tested many and.... mostly.... find that they smoke too much, or soot too much, discolor wax too much, or other issues. Ive had better results with them in parasoy and soy though than parrafin for sure. Didn't like them at all when I tried them in 4627 (but that's me). If considering zinc as an option, they are really straight forward. As the number increases, the size increases. Here is a list that pretty much covers the most common ones 44-24-18 44-28-18 44-32-18 51-32-18 60-44-18 62-52-18 There are also some smaller than 44-24 mostly used in votives and pillars at that point. (I cant image using them in pillars but thats besides the point.) The trick with zincs (like some other wicks) is finding one supplier that carries all sizes. I have to use a few some times

agreed. same here

Nick, 4627 does discolor pretty easily though. You will notice it much less if they are dyed. That being said, cooler burning wicks with that wax seem to be much better (zinc for example). Have you tried any others though like cd, premier, rrd, htp? None of those burn as cool as zinc but may work better for you.

100% agree with this. Its amazing sometimes how soot can virtually disappear by wicking UP rather than down.