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wthomas57 last won the day on March 20 2020

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  1. I agree with bfroberts, talltayl, and others. No need to add vybar to IGI 6006. Also, if you are interested in more discussion on vybar (when to use it, how much to use it, its pros and cons, etc). here is a video. It echoes the same sentiments as above though. It can help in situations but its intended purpose isn't to just make HT better. Hope this helps. https://youtu.be/lq_HzUkeUmc
  2. Its about finding that happy medium/combination. Sometimes i had to change wick types. Other times, it took an adjustment of the FO load. Part of the issue was jar style and the wax type. Hasn't really much much of a problem for quite some time now.
  3. Yes it is. Probably 3 sizes if I had to make my best guess. But would depend on how long its been burning to be more precise.
  4. HTPs are very common, you should be able to find the full range with several suupliers. Here are some: Candle Science CandleWic Flaming Candle Lonestar has most
  5. I've never used Taureens, but I believe they are bit wider correct? Would double wicking help or is the opening not really wide enough? One thing for sure with 6006 is that anything past than 2.75" + mark is tough to wick without using a really big wick leading to huge flames, soot, mushrooms, etc. Even a Premier may not work well. I use 6006 with great success in jars at the 2.75" ish mark. For example, straigh sided jars, masons, etc... all work fine. Tumblers and larger are not satisfactory for me without double wicking (regardless of wick type)
  6. They are similar to LX but work better for me. The issue with LX is that the wick ends up getting too tall even if it doesn't mushroom. Premiers, depending on the FO either curl or self combust. There aren'y a perfect wick by any means, and I still have issues and/or mushrooming with some just like any wick. But, due to all the incremental sizing, you at least have a little better opportunity to dial in to the best possible size. Although, LX has several size options as well. I do often have some wild differences though. In the same jar with same wax, a change in FO, can often be SEVERAL wick size differences apart. So you really have to test. For example, I have some that take a Premier 775 and others that only need a Premir 730. They incremement by "5". So between those two candles that is an increase of 9 sizes! And FWIW, I have descent results with Premiers in both soy and parasoy (haven't tried straight parrafin). Premiers are also a bit pricier for me than other wicks which is a downfall as well.
  7. I have only had occasional and inconsistent luck by twisting them. Sometimes it helps a bit, but for me it usually does not. Bare in mind that it takes a while for the unwinding to occur because they burn at a slow rate. Its only going to start curling back another direction only after plenty of was has been consumed... several hours. By that time, the wick has already started leaning to one side, especially with the added weight of the wax being pulled up and then also the curl. By the time it does finally start to change directions, its usually already leaning too much to have the ability to lean back to proper posture, let alone the other direction. I have really only had luck in very light easy to work with and quick burning FOs. But, with those... I typically do not have much of an issue in the first place. Just my two cents.
  8. Woodwicks work fine but can generate a lot of soot as they continue to burn. Just like customers are bad about trimming regular wicks they are bad about snipping off the burnt wood before relighting as well. AS with eeverythign else... customer education. Many customers still are new to wood wicks and have no idea what to do. But yes, they work fine. I have more issues with straight soy wax than I do parasoys and wood wicks.
  9. After making candles for years, I disagree with a lot (most) of these recommendations as most candle makers would with most guides. They are just rough guidelines based off a single wax, esimated jar size, and no FO (which affects wicking). So take it all with a grain of salt.
  10. Several reasons: Taller jar than it is wide. (more shrinkage top to bottom) cover and cool them at a slower rate it happens sometimes with lots of waxes try pouring cooler I use 6006 a lot and rarely have issues that require any repours or topping off.
  11. Be aware, since your customers are asking for soy, that 6006 is a parasoy. And its mostly parrafin. Just something to consider if weren't already aware. I use 6006 a lot but its tough to single wick. I use several wicks depening on jar and FO combination. I sue all of these wicks in my 6006 candles: HTP, Premier, LX, HTP, Wood, Zinc, and a couple CDs.
  12. You are all spot on. HTPs are perfect in every way except they lean. And I dont mean curl (that is a good thing), but that they lean to much. They do NOT hold up well in melted or semi melted wax. Other than they.. they are my favorite by far. Most if not all self trimming wicks (ones that curl) are flat braid with no core. This means less rigid and do not hold up in melting or soft wax. HTPs are the best among them I think but still frustrating. I hate CDs. I only like ECOs in 100% soy wax. The battle for the "best wick" will never end do to all the variables and its not a perfect science unfortunately
  13. Pip, you are correct HTPs burn the best and least amount of issues in 6006 in my long time experience with 6006... HOWEVER, as you mentioned they lean to one size so badly it makes them almost unusable a lot of times. I have same issue with CD wicks except the smoke and soot a lot more for me than HTPs. Some other notes from me: Zincs work well except with tough FOs, but the mushroom bad over time usually. LX's work well if you can find right size that melts across top without also being too large and flame getting to big or too small that it eventaully dies out. ECOs are usualy way too big of flames with smoke and soot Premiers are similar to LX but i have a bit better luck with them. the list goes on and on. Here is my overall point. You picked a great wax overall, but also one of the toughest to wick consistently. I have about 80-100 different candles made with 6006 and the majority are with different wicks (families and sizes). Depends so much on the combination of the FO and jar. GL.
  14. Yah, I'm not a fan of ECOs at all. They start off ok for a bit but end up with huge wild flames and lots of soot. Next to impossible to size correctly. If I i use them, its only in soy or soy blends, never in parrafin. There are several options for 4630 that all work similarly. Id try LX, HTP, Zinc, Cotton, Paper, etc... all before I'd settled on ECO.
  15. Agree with you. Yes, I prefer waxes with less wet spot issues, but not a deal breaker for me or anything. And yes, 4630 throws great. I will say I haven't had great wicking results with it. little too much soot for me even when wicked correctly. But, I still use it some.. mostly to blend
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