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Found 9 results

  1. Hi, I'm a newbie here, hoping to find some help for my candle fails. I hope I haven't missed a post that already covers my problem. I'm a commercial beekeeper and have been making my own beeswax candles for a year or so. It's taken a lot of testing, fails, hair-tearing, etc. I have ALMOST got them just right - burning evenly, wick centred, no sink holes, no cracks (usually), etc. But I have one last problem which is driving me up the wall and over the other side. Sometimes - just sometimes - when the candles set, some of them come away from the jar leaving a messy residue on the glass, making them pretty well unsaleable. More for me to burn, but that's beside the point. You should be able to see what I mean in the pic I posted. The candles there are halfway through cooling, just after second pour, and just at the point of coming away from the jar. I know everyone says beeswax is not for jar candles, and I generally agree when it's 100% beeswax, but I'm adding a small amount of coconut oil to make it softer and burn better - also scent oils as well. So the wax is softer than 100% beeswax. All in all the jars work pretty well for me - except for this one problem. So generally what I do is get the wax up to 70 C in my double boiler, slowly heat the prepared jars in the oven to 150 C (because they cool quickly while pouring). Then I heat a pyrex jug for each scent, pour the wax into the jug, then mix in coconut oil and scent, pour wax into jars and replace the candles into the (now off) oven. I leave a tea towel wedged in the oven door for the first 20 mins or so, to cool the oven down to about 70 C, before leaving it to cool ever so slowly with the door shut. Then pull them out to poke holes and do a second pour about 3 hours later when they're just starting to separate from the jars. So the weird thing is, sometimes they all come out perfect - they all separate from the jars nice and cleanly, leaving no residue. But sometimes there will be one or two, or on a really bad day nearly half the candles which come away from the glass really messily, leaving all this residue stuck to the jars. And I totally don't know WHY, or what I'm doing differently to those few candles that go wrong!! It's seriously driving me MAD! Is the wax too cool when pouring, by the time I mix in the scent and coconut oil? Is there too much coconut oil? Is the oven not hot enough? Was there some residue on the glass before pouring, that I couldn't see? It would be great if someone has some input, before I tear all my hair out! Thanks in advance! :-)
  2. So I wasn't sure where to place this post. I'm wondering about spray painting or hand painting my candle jars. If i spray paint or hand paint a glass jar, am I able to pour my candles and burn them inside? The paint will be on the outside of the jar. I am curious if it will make the paint drip off after If I use a primer? thank you all so much. You're all so helpful
  3. I originally tested ECO 8 and Eco 10 wicks in my 16oz ball mason jars. The eco 8 looks like it's going to go out the entire time. The eco 10 was great so I started using that. In my latest batch the wicks smoke terribly, I am getting tons of mushrooming and the edges of my jar are turning black. This didn't happen at first. The flame is huge and flickers a lot, I have a huge melt pool as well. I am using coconut 83 wax that has a low melt point I think around 120-130 degrees. Every chart I've read online says to use the Eco 10 or larger but it's hard to find any info on coconut blends. Everything is tested in pure soy. Can someone suggest a wick that would be slightly smaller than an eco 10 but larger than an eco 8? Or maybe better for coconut wax? The only thing that has changed since my lest testing was I started using Vybar, could this be the issue?
  4. I'm having problems wicking a new batch of 464 in a couple of apple fragrances. Wicks that worked previously are too hot. Tried CD12 as well as wicking down with my Premiers. No hot throw. Stumped; then read a thread on double wicking 16 oz. tins. Has anyone double wicked a Mason or Ball pint jar with Premiers? Regular mouth so 2 1/2" opening. Just have no idea where to start or if two wicks would not work in this container. By the way, the new boxes of 464 have worked out for three of my fragrances with no changes in wicks. Thought I had this licked. Goldie
  5. I guess I don't understand how wick size affects a candle because I'm getting a result I didn't expect. I've been testing straight-sided, 3.5" tall container candles with 464. Why would the container be warmer with the 785 Premier, smaller-sized wick than the 790 Premier, larger-sized wick? The only thing that is different is the wick. Goldie
  6. This is a half-pint canning jar that I want to start selling but am concerned with the amount of wax remaining after the wick is down to the metal clip. I'm thinking customers would feel they aren't getting their money's worth since it looks like 1/5 of the jar has to be thrown. My warning label says "discontinue use when 1/2". . .remains" which is about what this is. In a pint jar, 1/2" doesn't look as bad as in this little guy. Is this how yours look? If so, you get negative feedback from customers? Goldie
  7. These lids are .75/each plus shipping when you buy 10 or more. Could a customer burn the candle with the lid on? They are from CWI Gifts which is a wholesale site. GoldieMN
  8. How do you know if your candle jar is too hot when burning a candle jar? I use a parasoy, and every wick I use, it seems when I get a nice melt pool, or when the wax burns down, the sides of the jar are very hot. How hot is too hot?
  9. I'm going to be offering B & B products such as lotions, cremes, salts, shampoos, and conditioners and had a few questions about packaging sizes. I've decided to use the amber colored bottles but wondered if they are/were popular for you. 1) I'll be using amber jars for cremes and bath salts but wasn't sure what the most popular size is among users. What is the most popular size with your customers? 2) Amber Cosmo bottles for the lotions but again not sure which size is most popular. It seems they're only available in 2, 4, and 8 oz sizes though. Is that enough sizes to choose from or should I try to offer a 6 oz size as well? They do have a 16 oz size in the Boston rounds but do the round bottles make popular lotion bottles? 3) Amber Oval bottles for shampoos and conditioners. Again they seem to be available only in 2, 4, and 8 oz bottles. Too few sizes to choose from? I chose amber because I'm going for the more upscale look. Should I consider choosing a different color or just offering what's available in amber? Thanks in advance for sharing.
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