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JeremyM

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About JeremyM

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  • Makes
    candles, aroma beads, reed diffusers

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  1. Thank you @TallTayl for the tips! I tested the other day when it was 90, and the candles began to melt. My canopy tent came with removable walls, so I put on three of the walls to block the sunlight, but I'm wondering if it actually increased the temperature under the canopy because of poor ventilation. It's going to be 95 here tomorrow, so I'll test again with just one wall (the side facing the sun).
  2. I apologize if this has already been discussed, but I did a pretty lengthy search and couldn't find anything. I am still relatively new at selling my soy candles and wax melts. I've predominantly used Etsy but attended a few Fall/Winter craft fairs last year. My goal this year was to use my summer (I'm a teacher) to attend more craft fairs and farmers markets. My first one is scheduled for this Sunday, but it's forecasted to be 92 degrees. My soy candles would definitely begin to melt at that temperature, so I pulled out of the event. I have a farmers market on Tuesday, and it's supposed to be 95 degrees, so I will probably need to cancel that as well. Maybe I was being too optimistic when I signed up for these markets, but I really want to get out there to sell my product in person. Do any of you have experience selling soy candles at outdoor markets in the summer? I'd love your feedback on whether it's just a bad idea or if there are things I could do to make it work. Jeremy
  3. JeremyM

    Bath Bombs Cracking

    Thank you so so much TallTayl! I searched through these forums but somehow missed your videos. They were super helpful. I'm pretty sure our problem is that we're packing them too tight. It's my fault because I told them to do it. That's because everywhere I read said we should do that. Ugh. Anyway, I'm also going to have them use rubbing alcohol solution in a spray bottle instead of just water in a pipette, and I also love your idea for using packing materials to prevent the bath bombs from being flat on the bottom. I'm looking forward to testing some more tomorrow!
  4. JeremyM

    Bath Bombs Cracking

    I'm a science teacher, and my students are making bath bombs to learn the chemistry involved but also gain some entrepreneurial skills. After doing a lot of research, we decided on this recipe and basic procedure below. For the most part, we used aluminum molds. While half of them turned out pretty good, the other half all have cracks. I've read some forums about the humidity of the room, but it's not at all humid in my classroom. I appreciate any and all feedback! 1 cup baking soda 1/2 cup citric acid 1/2 cup cornstarch 1/2 cup salt (kids chose between epsom salt, dead sea salt, and himalayan pink salt) 1 tbs oil (kids chose between coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and vegetable oil) 2 tsp fragrance oil 1/4 tsp powdered colorant ~2 tsp water Basic procedure: 1. Mix all of the dry ingredients together. 2. Combine oil and fragrance oil to dry mixture. 3. Use pipette to slowly add water while mixing until desired "wet sand" consistency is achieved. 4. Make molds, leave in mold for 2 minutes, then take out and let air dry on a paper plate.
  5. Great idea! I might need to order a pair as well.
  6. I tried a few brands of wood wicks but always had issues as well. Like coachtom mentioned, there is a patent now on wood wicks so you will notice all sites either selling the same wood wicks or their stock is "limited" as they get rid of their old supply. If they ask you to include a patent on your labels, you know it's the patented kind. The best place to get them is woodenwick.com. I think they are the main supplier of these wicks. It's confusing because there are so many options with different widths and thicknesses. I also use 464 soy wax, so I have been using mostly the dual wicks (two "original" wicks adhered together) or their booster wicks (an original wick with a much smaller original wick adhered together). I want to like the dual wicks because they provide a more horizontal flame, which I really like. However, I do notice they tend to burn low and are not consistent. As wthomas57 referred to as well, the two wicks curl apart while burning. It looks a bit odd. I have now mostly switched to the booster wicks. It's a more vertical flame, but they work consistently. I use 8 oz mason jars and more recently 9 oz amber jars, and their 1/2" booster wicks work for all of my fragrances in those two jars. The same wick also works very well in my 6 oz gold tins. There are still some where I like the dual wick, so I test both wicks with each new fragrance I sell. https://www.woodenwick.com/adhered-wicks/ The toughest thing about wood wicks is unlike traditional wicks, you really need to trim them. The wicks will not stay lit if they are too big, so you need to trim them before each use. I've started sending customers a little thank you note that includes directions for proper maintenance of their candle since we know no one looks at the bottom label. I have also ordered some CleanCut wick trimmers because they are the only wick trimmer I have found that can actually cut at a 90 degree angle. They are not sharp enough for trimming fresh wood wicks after you have poured a candle, but they're perfect for trimming wood wicks before each burning.
  7. I have a Clean Cut brand wick trimmer that makes a 90 degree cut. It's really nice for trimming my wood wicks, but it's also on the expensive side. I've tried a few other brands, but they all have more of an angle to them, which makes it difficult to trim wood wicks as you trim further into the container. Can anyone recommend another brand of wick trimmer that makes a 90 degree cut like Clean Cut but perhaps a bit cheaper? It's hard to tell just by looking at the photos. Jeremy
  8. Thank you TallTayl, that's a really good idea. I'll give it a shot next time!
  9. I currently have two small and two large pouring pots. I am quite skilled at using the small pouring pots, but I hate using the 4 lb pots because I end up spilling wax everywhere. I don't want to pour too fast (because I read that can cause sink holes), but pouring too slow causes wax to drip down the sides. At this point, I am pouring mostly into 4 and 8 oz mason jar containers, and I was wondering if there were better quality pouring pots that limit spilling or if anyone has any pouring tips for the larger pouring pots. I think my next step may be to pour some of the wax into a smaller pouring pot after I add the fragrance and then put a thermometer into both pots since the smaller one would cool down more quickly.
  10. As someone else mentioned, there have been issues with boxes of 464 produced in the summer months. From what I have read, you want to stock up on wax before the summer because it seems moisture gets into the wax at the manufacturer. I had a box with a June date, and everything was fine until about halfway to the bottom of the box. I got to the point where every candle had huge sink holes, and a few random candles had very bad cottage cheese tops. Normally, the tops are very smooth. I switched to another box of 464 with an April date on it, and all those problems went away. I hate wasting wax, so I use the June wax for testing (and use a heat gun to fix the problems) and use the April wax for fulfilling orders.
  11. I am looking to add a new container to my collection and am looking for an amber straight sided tumbler somewhere around 10-12 oz by volume. CS has one that I really like, but the reviews are horrible. (https://www.candlescience.com/containers/straight-sided-tumbler-jar-amber.) Woodfire Candle Company has a similar container for their whiskey glass candles (https://woodfirecandleco.com/collections/whiskey-collection/products/whiskey-glass-soy-wood-wick-candle) that I absolutely love. I've spent hours looking all over for a place that sells a container like this but so far no luck. Does anyone use containers like these or know where I can purchase them? I may end up using containers similar to PF Candle, but I like it better without the grooves for a lid at the top. I plan to use either cork or a bamboo lid.
  12. Does anyone know the deal with Peak Candle? Their supplies have been getting more and more limited, and now their website has been "closed" for the last few days. I really hope they are not closing for good. Jeremy
  13. JeremyM

    Candle Packaging

    Thank you, TallTayl!
  14. JeremyM

    Mason Jar Aroma Beads

    I only sell aroma beads in sachets, but my friend works for a school and has asked if they can buy them in small mason jars instead to place on teachers' desks. Being a teacher myself, I'm all for this. I already have small mason jars and daisy lids, but the beads fall all over the place when you shake it. Any idea what I can use for a screen that lets the smell of the beads escape but keeps the beads inside the jar? Jeremy
  15. I have been shipping my candle products wrapped in bubble wrap and surrounded with styrofoam peanuts in the shipping box. I have seen a lot of sellers packaging each candle in individual boxes. I like how that looks, so I would like to purchase some brown kraft boxes for the two sizes of mason jar candles I make. I'm a little confused though what steps other sellers take to make sure the candles don't break. I assume no one wraps the candles in bubble wrap inside each box, and it would look silly to wrap the boxes in bubble wrap. If individually box each candle, then put those smaller boxes into the larger box for shipping and fill it with styrofoam peanuts, would that be secure enough? I would love to hear from others who box individual items. Jeremy
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