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wthomas57

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Everything posted by wthomas57

  1. I have not personally ever thought that parrafin was "easier" to work with myself. Its easier to wick, sure... but other than that.. I dont think its easier. Parrafin cools much quicker making cleanup more difficult. Many parrafins shrink much more than soy requiring multiple pours... I dont have to repour any soy that I use. The REASON, though, that I do soy candles too is simple. Customers want it. At first I didn't worry about it as when I first started people didn't ask or care about the type of candle as much. Now... well, I cant do an event without about 1 of every 4 customers asking if they are soy candles. They dont know why they are asking and to be perfectly honest, they aren't educated at all. But that doesn't matter, they want soy because its the big craze right now. I provide what customer want.. or at least try to. In fact, I can barely get into a new store without them first asking if my candles are soy. Lol. Just the way it is right now. People tend to care much more now than they used to. Regardless if those concerns are misguided. But to clarify on adding soy to your blend. If the soy is less than 50%, I just call it a blend or "with soy". If its over 50%, you can call it soy from what I understand. Gotta love American regulations right.... ridiculous. But.. live within the rules. In my soy candles, for what they lack in throw compared to parrafin.. I just use a higher FO load. Plus they make up for it by burning a bit cleaner and slower.
  2. I use 6006 in about 1/3 of my stuff. Those i jist call blends because they are only 30% soy. Everything else i blend myself, other candles and wax melts. I also use mottling parrafin in some jars. The higher the soy... definitely less throw than parrafin. Apples to apples of course. You can get them similar by adding more fo or blending.
  3. Some added like 15% FO. Which is crazy and not advised. Most uae using a parasoy. If its over 50% soy, you can call it soy. Just cant call it all natural, or organic, or 100% spy, etc.
  4. Won't work for tarts.... too soft. Its a container wax. You could try bending it with a pillar wax for tarts though. And wood wicks wont help a ton. The problem is the wax, not the wicks unfortunately.
  5. I even tried blending it with 6006 at 50:50 to try and make it work..... barely helped at all. :/
  6. Are your candles 9oz jars or net wt 9oz? It makes a difference. To me they look like 9oz jars tbat hpld approximately 7oz of wax. Is that the case or am i mistaken on the jars? Theyappear tp be like jars i use that are 9oz jars nut hold 7oz fill.
  7. It soots like crazy but ECOs soot like crazy in 6006. Dont use eco with 6006
  8. This is good advice. Like I said, I do NOT use 464 as I do not like it. So my general suggestions was not for 464
  9. I approach this a bitter different than Jcanleattic I think. I used to do the other layer when there was a skin but not fully hardened. Caused too much bleeding of the other wax/color/scent, etc. And it was more of a blended line, where I like a little more distinction on my layers. Obviously, it depends on the wax your using, pour temps, etc.. But what I generally do now is this: (assuming 2 layers for this example) 1) First pour - let set and harden 2) top off/repour the first layer if needed 3) Do second pour (this pour needs to be hotter because it will cool quicker which means may cause sinkhole and require another pour 4) If you DO need to fix or repour second layer, do it after first one is basically set. Personally, I try NOT to repour/2nd pour the top layer. Instead I cover them to cool as slowly as possible and then hit with heat gun if needed to fix tops. All in all, I have much better luck doing additional layers after lower layer is hard though. Better layer lines and way less sinkage issues on additional layers.
  10. 6006 or Clarus 3020 or 3022 I think 6006 throws a bit better, 3022 burns a bit cleaner. Neither are that easy to wick in my opinion. I use both a lot though.
  11. Wicking large containers - double wicking, etc works like a charm. And cuts down on mushrooms and sooting. I use different wax blends depending on my jars as I offer different "collections". So, while I dont use 6006 in most of my larger jars, it works just fine double or triple wicking and many different wicks work well to do that (HTP, RRD, Zinc, LX) I agree on CDs. too big, too sooty, uneven burns. Paper core works fine, but mushroom quickly.Premiers are hit or miss. Work well as far as burn goes, but with my FOs they get really sooty. I agree on ECOs too.. terrible in 6006. Zincs are most consisten by far in my opinion. Yes, there are drawbacks, but still work well. As far as RRDs, you can find them many places. Premiers, less so.
  12. I dont really have complications with 6006 overall. I do not like 4627 or 4630. Smokey, sooty, and I hate working with it. 4630 is bad about wetspots even from the getgo. I dont get hung up on wetspots really... but why deal with it more than i have to. I just prefer the look and burn of 6006 over both 4627 and 4630... and them combined. 6006 has been my main wax for sometime and still currently my most used. Maybe I need to read back some more, but waht major complications are you having with 6006?
  13. It is true. 6006 is mostly parrafin (70/30). Thats what i meant by being opposite of the calrus they were referrring to (which is mostly soy)
  14. Id start with a 50. I've never used them in 464. I totally 2 use 40 or 47 but sinde 464, id wick up a bit to 50 and try. Also, if it helps, i cut mine in half and retab to get more wicks.
  15. I have bought from several suppliers. Most of the time I have not seen or tested any different on the same wicks from different suppliers. I was paranoid about it for a while but never really amounted to anything. I have had a FEW that were a bit off compared to each other, but i think it had more to do with the wax coating than anything else. Also, I had some wicks sent that were not properly labeled with correct size. That's a bad deal. For the most part, I use a combo of CandleScience, lonestar, and CandleWic for my wicks depending on what I need. You are correct, none seem to carry them all. Ive seriously considered becoming a supplier of just wicks and having EVERYTHING... a one stop shop for them because its frustrating. Lol I use premiers sparingly and when I need those, I get them from Flaming Candle. About to start testing CSNs a bit more, and there are hard to find... so SouthWest Candle Supply will be the place for me for those wicks.
  16. I/We have mostly been talknig about after the candle is extinguished... not just when melting in the melters. Every customer/tester who has used candles made out of this wax report the same problems. Its REALLY bad
  17. My issues are nothing to do with a bad batch. Ive tested several different lots/batches from a few suppliers. The issue is the wax as many have documented pretty thoroughly. Yes, there are a few successful tests... i had some too. But its all completely irrelevant, because no customer is going to be happy with the amount of smoking this wax does. Customers may buy initally, but they wont keep coming back. This wax does not stand up anywhere close to most other waxes in my opinion... even on the tests that have been "successful" And.. i know who you are referring to in Quebec (I believe). Be careful what reviews you take to heart. Many are paid and/or given freebies for these reviews. Also, someone using this wax a lot andhaving "success" I would be very curious the amount of their testing, scents, etc. And like i said... may testers have paid no mind to what the candle does after being extinusuihed (or they dip the wick in the wax). Which is totally fine, but most customers do not do that. And this wax smokes like crazy via the wicks. Heck, it smokes when melting too. There is even warnings not to breath in any of the vapors.. yikes. No thanks. Trust me.. I was REALLY wanting this wax to work. If anyone was going to give it the benefit of the doubt, it would have been me. Hence, why I kept testing and testing and testing. ill never use it... unless its changed.
  18. Just overall didn't perform as well. More sooting and carbon buildup then others. They weren't the worst by any means, but not my favorite either. Sometimes they worked well, but in most cases even the zincs worked better for me than LX. What I DO like about LX is the night tight flame. But I just had better luck (most of of the time) with the following wicks: Zinc, HTP, RRD Next would be CD and Paper Core just a tad above Premier and LX Ones I did not like with 6006 were: ECO
  19. Ovrall, LX is among my least favorite with this wax....but still have them in use for a few scents.
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