wthomas57

Those are cool, thanks for sharing. Does wick type matter and do they really get burning pretty well? Enough to really be a fire starter? Since you sell a lot, do they have descent shelf life? Do you use harder pillar type waxes?

Unfortunately, they are just going to the manufactures which are telling them nothing is wrong. Annoying

All great tips, thanks

I am sure this may not be a popular opinion, but I dont ike using BA myself. Never been as helpful as other companies like CS or NG. And Id be surprised if they haven't had any other complaints. Candle Science got back to me right away, apologized and sent me a replacement case jut based off the description I gave them. Granted, I am a heavy bulk spender with them. Lol

Possibly, but Id test first first and see if wicking is ok. Some discoloration can be normal and doesn't necessarily mean something is wrong. However, because so many people are having issues right now... I would test asap. Mine haven't been yellow at all.. just not burning the same.

Vybar and/or Stearic Acid raises FO potential. But I don't use gel myself so not sure of that application. The other thing worth mentioning... many gel candle makers use FO by volume not by weight like most. If they are doing by volume.. then will can and will claim much higher fragrance loads. BS if you ask me.

The new waxes are not available yet... supposedly soon. I guess samples have been sent to distributors. I am just concnerned that NGI suddenly pulled the plug on their wax before so what is to stop them from doing it again. Has soy candle makers frustrated and nervous going forward. Ill try it because i cant help myself (its a problem). But I dont have much trust right now.

you all got me wanting to make some for personal use and for family. Any good "recipes" anyone willing to share? Ha

Well.. I can give you a few suggestions. 1) Traditionally, candles and melts were fragranced at 3%. So when you hear triple wicked, they usually mean 9 or 10% So i am guessing 5x the scent is 15% I am not as familiar with gel wax, but I know there are wax blends out there can hold over 12 (supposedly). Also.. since melts have no concern for wicking... they can pump as much additive they want into it to increase the FO load. 2) They could also be using weaker oil which is why they add a lot more 3) They could also just be full of SH$% Regardless... waste of money. no need for that much. Thats just overwhleming IMO.

You wont want HTP if you need a more rigid wick. They are the more flimsy in my opinion and will lean. But I like them a lot other than that. Just careful... they wont hold up well in super soft wax. You will have less problems in larger jars however, RRD definitely much more rigid. But can soot and mushroom a little too much sometimes

I agree... the more complaints/concerns voiced the better. There is definitely soy issues right now. Heck, its probably why NGI's new line of eco waxes kept getting pushed back. I bet they were running into issues as well. And yes, Clarus 3020 is similar to 6006. And I like Brad from Clarus... the issue for me is the cost and shipping. Its just too expensive. To me the performance was about the same.

I am starting not to trust any lot of any wax. :/

This is the challenge issue I face sometimes with 6006. So I totally get it. There are several wicks that work in 6006 including CD, HTP, Zinc, LX, ECO, Premiers. The most consistent good performer is zinc but has the drawback of quicker mushrooms and the wire which some people may bark at. CD works well for some of the harder to burn and heavier scents, but tend to soot more and end up mushrooming as much as zinc over time often. HTP is my favorite as far as overall burn goes, but because its more flimsy and can lean, its not as good in smaller jars. ECO is a lot like CD in this application for me, great self trimming characteriscs but like CD tends to soot too much for me in 6006. Not sure why. Too hot too usually Premier and LX perform similar to zinc, more wick sizing choices, and have no wire core... but tend to soot more than zinc and burn a bit hotter. So.... it REALLY depends on the fragrance for me. Fall back wick is zinc for sure as it does the job most the time. But, as I continue to try and "perfect" my candles, I find the other works better sometimes. Wicking as you know gets tough. Most people I know that use 6006 just stick with zinc and are happy with it. Regarding mixing in some 4630.. I actually do this on about a 1/3 of them. It doesn't help enough for me to warrant the extra work of blending. Plus, its just one more variable that can go wrong. So I am already starting to phase it of those candles and probably go back to just 6006. I actually like the blend of 6006/464 better than with 6006/4630. But I hate the extra cure time and adding more soy worries me at this point so I ditched that completely already. For now, Ill keep with just 6006 until I find something better. Also, I dont get any extra HT out of 4630 than I do 6006 really... maybe on a few scents, but thats it. 4627 does offer a bit more though. But as I said.... didn't feel it was necessary.

interesting.... damn, I wish we knew what soy was in 6006. Although, it seems like all the soys are having issues.

I'm not saying its the greatest... sometimes can be difficult to wick. Every wax I've ever used has advantages and disadvantages. If your anal retentive and never satisfied like me... then you will never be completely happy. However, I find less wrong with 6006 than the others... PLUS because its partially soy you can tell customers they are a soy blend which is great to hook both regular candle lovers who dont care and the ones who insist on soy for some bazaar misguided reason. I say that because it truly seems like soy is starting to tank ( as far as quality of pure soy candles). I like being able to sell to both markets/demands. All that being said, I don't think you beat the HT of 4627 comparing apples to apples and no other variables. But.. I also think 4627 is often overkill anyway. To me 6006 hits the spot. My customers love the HT without it being so strong it knocks you over and bothers your nose. Lol. Also... 6006 being partially soy last longer than straight parrafin customers are used to buying off the shelf. Again... selling a great candle that lost longer than normal. hard to beat. The hardest thing to get used to with 6006 is the MP is deceiving. It doesn't seem completely liquidy often... more like a slushy look and not as deep. But its actually a good thing. The throw is awesome, gets less hot than straight parrafin and last longer as I mentioned.

I hope so too. I dont like 4630 as much as 6006.. not even close really. Same with 4627. But i think there have been a few bad lots. If yours is coming to you and already yellowish, that is a problem. Get it replaced. If its becoming yellow while sitting in your posession it couold be lights. UV can affect non colored wax too and discolor it. It happens. Just something to note,

Candle Science told me they would contact IGI as well. In the meantime, they are sending me a replacement case, so that is nice.

Thanks for the response. My wax is white which is normal. However, it does have a bumpy texture to it. Not burning right either. something is wrong. I also talked to CandleScience and they "aren't aware of any issues". However, someone else made a comment there in the reviews within the past 24 hours saying roughly the same thing I did. 6006 has NEVER had burn or tunneling issues. Or even cosmetic issues. So something is wrong. That being said, Candle Science is also wrong in their response to you. Its not more soy than parrafin. Its mostly parrafin. I believe 70/30. Just not sure what type of parrafin and what type of soy. I am guessing a 464 type (which itself is having issues)

Ill keep ya posted... but Im expecting not a lot of info like usual.

I know there is currently a post about a Lot of 6006 that seems to be having issues. Although after reading the post, doesn't seem to be an issue i am having. However, lately my candles have needed to be wicked up a couple sizes on average. The ones using 6006 at least so far. Nothing else has changed. First, as a 6006 user I should know this... but other than it being about a 70/30 parrafin/soy blend, does anyone know which soy and which parrafin is being used? This info would be really helpful to know so that if one of those particular waxes is having issues or starts getting hard to find or discontonued (ahem like Ecosoyo Advanced did), that would be pretty important to know. Also, anyone else have LOT# T1700447 Not sure if there is anything wrong or not, but thought I would ask. Its from CandleScience if that makes a difference Thanks

I use craftybase software. If you want to give them a shot, I can refer you for a discount. Its cheap and really dynamic. Couldn't live with out it anymore. Manages all my receipes and materials. Let me know

There are several.. I cant remember off hand but check candles and supplies, amazon, lonestar perhaps. I think Candle Science now carries them as well. but they aren't too hard to find. Ill warn you.... they scratch and scuff awfully bad. Hard to keep looking nice.

I couldn't stand Peak's cotton wicks.. so Id suggest anything else is probably a good alternative. Try, lx, Premier, HTP, Cd, and Eco

I've been having more issues in the few instances i use 4630 (blending) than i have had with 6006

Hey bfroberts, just thought I'd check in and see how things were going for you? Did you end up sticking with the 50/50 blend of 6006/4630? how did that all work out for you?