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Everything posted by strugglebrother

  1. strugglebrother

    Palm wax shrinkage

    Here is how I just recently deal with the air pockets when doing palm candles. I pour my candles but make sure I have 6-10oz extra which I leave in the crockpot. After 15-20 minutes when the top solidified, but some still has some holes which the wax can leak from which can make the flip impossible, I poke 4/5 relief holes on the tops. Then I wait 5 minutes for it to solidify under that and flip for the big air bubble to go to the bottom. Next day I reheat what I have in the crockpot and just top up a tiny bit over the line which is just a little per candle. Perfect tops and the air bubble will be at the bottom of the candle. It just takes 5-10 minutes for the candle tops to get ready and it's good to go.
  2. strugglebrother

    Bulk Apothecary IGI wax discontinued

    Sorry to hear that your wax has been taken away. Bulk Apothecary is a very unreliable company https://www.yelp.com/biz/bulk-apothecary-aurora I would not consider them my main supplier in any way... The few good reviews on Yelp are obviously doctored by mr Gary P himself, hence how they are phrased.
  3. Hi everyone, I'm looking for a scale that can hold a lot of weight but are also very precise. I'm using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SVQHWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For heavier things, like pouring fragrance oils in bigger beakers to use for candle making. It's really good as it goes as precise as 0.1g. The bowl is also great for spills to put things on. And then I'm using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C3G73U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For super detailed stuff, compiling tester room sprays in small amounts and perfume. It goes as precise as 0.005g So when I compile room sprays in bigger beakers the first scale isn't precise enough and the second one won't hold enough weight. Is there any reasonable scales out there that can hold more weight and be as precise as 0.005g that you use or would recommend?
  4. Latest client return of my candles containing AAK 444 wax. Same wax, same fragrance, same pour temp, same container, same wick for over 2 years. Look at that melt pool and tunneling, this is hilarious. They say it's up to spec and nothing has changed? I have tested random candles from the latest batch, some work some don't. Got refunded from Candle Science for the wax but have to take a loss of $700 in fragrance and other material. Taking all candles back from the store and convinced the client not to use soy wax and move over to coconut wax in the future so this is the last time ever I'm using AAK waxes. I would test this lot extensively before selling.
  5. strugglebrother

    New 2018 AAK wax still useless

    To me, having to rewick a whole line of candles just due to that the wax is changing is almost like starting again. You end up between wick sizes, when you wick up you sometimes get soot, really bad mushrooming etc... Or is it maybe just me and I'm very unlucky? Pretty much all of our own private line has been on hold for 6 months now... But I'm not crying. We got the chance to reevaluate our whole wax situation due to these problems. We forced ourselves to find even better fragrance and wax. Without these major errors, we could have been selling the same soy wax candles with a bad throw and kept on thinking that it was the best we could do. I'm very excited to relaunch before Christmas with 11 candles which has great performance. This forum has been a great help. As sellers keep on pushing out bad products it's very helpful to be able to share information about the quality.
  6. strugglebrother

    New 2018 AAK wax still useless

    The 2017 AAK wax had diminishing HT for us but I guess we lived with it... This 2018 AAK batch is just completely messed up... All this in candles which have been using the same fragrance and same process and jars.
  7. strugglebrother

    New 2018 AAK wax still useless

    Same fragrance oil - scents for the last 2 years.
  8. strugglebrother

    New 2018 AAK wax still useless

    HTP 105... I burned one of them first at home and it did what it was supposed to do, perfect meltpool and flame. Then I burned another one and it didn't reach a melt pool in 5 hours at all. Then another one died in the wax after an hour. I used 444 from two different lots. One from 2017 which I have made a bunch of candles from and I presume is fine (I bought 200lb at the same time from the same batch). I'm 100% the bad ones are from the 2018 batch. I was stupid enough not to mark what candles were made out of which batch hence why I will replace all of their candles for free with the new wax.
  9. strugglebrother

    New 2018 AAK wax still useless

    I also thought it was an air bubble first and just a dud. I don't have this particular candle on hand, that was just sent to me. Looks like weird tunneling? I have burned a bunch from the batch. A few others will never reach a melt pool and will go out within 10 minutes to an hour in the wax. I have 5 different candles I have burned now that does different strange things. It also looks like some fluid in the wax which I have never seen before. Could that be moist from the wax or something? We never had one single return or any problems with these candles for 2 years... I should have an old candle that is about 2 years old which I will burn and show how they are supposed to look...
  10. strugglebrother

    Problems with room spray base

    We are turning our candle collection into room sprays. First, we tried out Rustic Escentuals 'Fragrant Room & Body Spray' base... Around 3-5% fragrance is well enough to scent a whole room with only 3-4 sprays, and the fragrance stays at least for an hour which is great. BUT, there is a terrible smell to this base which ruins a lot of fragrances. You smell it straight away when sprayed and it takes about 5 minutes in the air until the fragrance actually smells like it should. So we had to scrap this as it's such a bad first impression of a room spray. We tested it with friends and they actually complained about that they couldn't take the fragrance after a while as it becomes so heavy due to the base. Then, we tried fragrance oil (around 4-5%) + water (same ratio) and fill up with perfumers alcohol. This makes the fragrance smell exactly like it should when sprayed, very clean and lovely. This has unfortunately not the best longevity. It evaporates pretty quick and won't scent a room more than 10 minutes to 20 minutes depending on fragrance. We can up the fragrance to 7-9% possibly but I'm wondering if there is something I can add to boost the longevity which is completely odorless? Clouding is not our biggest concern.
  11. strugglebrother

    Pouring Temperature Mysteries

    Just add the fragrance at 5 degrees higher temperature than the temperature you want to mix it with... My temperature usually drops 3 to 5 degrees when I add the fragrance oil.
  12. strugglebrother

    4630 glass adhesion/wet spots

    I'm also allergic to wet spots... If there is a lot of them I DO think the customers care as they buy with their eyes. If there is one spot they are more likely to be okay with it. Things to get around it, use a colored tumbler or use a wrap around sticker. I'm sure there is a way to minimize them with an additive... Palm wax doesn't have wet spots at all etc.. Have anyone tried Paraflint H-1 or Micro Wax? Crisco shortening should help a bit but can smoke. I need to do some serious testing!
  13. I use paper towels first to wipe out the wax with when it still is a bit warm, otherwise just turn the pot on for a minute and then wipe it out. Then I use a bit of rubbing alcohol to disinfect it with and a paper towel. If you have been using dye in the crock pot I usually take a heat gun and blow hot air on the spout to get the colored wax out from the spout into a paper towel. If it's stuck in the spout you can use a chopstick to poke the paper towel into the hole to really clean it. This to prevent that a lump of black wax pops down in the jug the next time and colors your new wax.
  14. strugglebrother

    Break in crystallisation pattern Palm Wax

    Maybe not in as by a machine but poured from a machine like the Coogar VIII that times the pour exactly, pushes the wax out at exactly the same temperature and blends the fragrance as it pours. I looked at maybe 10 candles and they looked exactly the same. Maybe they are hung at the top and bottom in a rack completely freestanding and then flipped after a certain time of pouring. Or the line at the top showing that there was a repour at the end. Maybe a plastic fitting was put over the top of it to seal it while it cools down. But then the wick would move as you have to trim it and it would ruin the crystallization on top...
  15. Hi, I'm pouring palm wax hot, 205-210 degrees and the wax cools slowly. I flip the candle when surface starts to form to prevent the air pockets. Does anyone know why I still get a tad less crystallization just the top of my candles? And is there anything I can do to prevent it? If I do poke holes instead of flipping and treating the surface with a heat gun it doesn't look good after. Or simply heat gun to even out the tops of the candle the crystallization still gets ugly on top of the candle. Can you heat gun the tops of a palm wax candle and still get a good pattern? If I was to repour wouldn't that ruin the crystallization also? Or do I need to heat gun longer so the wax gets super hot?
  16. strugglebrother


    I love these! Is it just me or doesn't the pattern form 3 almost ghost looking creatures in the candle! Amazing!
  17. strugglebrother

    Break in crystallisation pattern Palm Wax

    These palm candles at Wholefoods have a line at the bottom instead and a tiny line at the top. Very even and straight top of the candles. I think these are somehow machine made.
  18. strugglebrother

    Break in crystallisation pattern Palm Wax

    Beer cozy tried... Can't say I'm a fan of Rams but that's what Target had to offer me today Unfortunately, it didn't make any difference. It's weird that the break is about 1 inch always. I snuck the cozy over it as soon as I poured super hot. Then I flip it so the bottom should actually be warmer but... I don't mind it that much actually, I can live with it. I have emailed Lipidchem in Malaysia, the maker of all these waxes. Let's see if they have any more tips.
  19. strugglebrother

    2017 Soy Wax Industry Update Video

    Soy wax is just a very bad wax in general, period. It works only with a handful of fragrances, flakes, crusts, looks ugly over time and apparently these days you have to test EVERY batch. In Sweden back in the 80’s and 90’s people got an oven inside there houses to burn environmental friendly wood pellets instead of using electricity. We all get it, electricity is stupid for heating up a house. It seemed great in the beginning and the government was pushing it as the new environmentally friendly way and funded it. Well, the pellets need to come from somewhere so you have big trucks coming and delivering it to your house. Is that environmentally friendly, no? Loads of fuel used for no good. Today nobody would invest in pellets for the house in Sweden, it wasn’t that great. Now you drill a hole and take heat for free from the ground instead. The technique is called Downhole Heat Exchanger. A lot of people took the punt on the technique from the 80s that was supposed to be “so good for the environment”. Selling a house today with pellet heating is considered almost bad for the selling price. You are stuck with it or have to rewire and install a completely new system. It's not until you sit in a good car you realize how bad the one was that you have been driving for years. This applies to soy wax for me. And now soy is being harvested so much that palm is probably a much better choice for the environment. Why does CS keep pushing soy wax and no coconut, apricot or palm wax? I have no idea, but it feels like they went to bed with AAK in some way as they continuously pushing bad products. I spoke to the owner of another big wax-manufacturer here in Los Angeles who used to stock AAK wax. They received 444 and 464 wax that was completely soaking wet. And they went back and forth with AAK until they stopped working with them as the wax was too terrible and they didn’t want their customers to get angry. So, I’m pretty sure CS got those moist and wet barrels of wax from AAK too but they didn’t care and sold it anyway. When people complained they said its nothing wrong with the wax it's your fault. After the big storm, they were forced to make that video when everyone was already screwed over. Yes, you can get a refund but what about those hundreds of candles you made that you already stuck fragrance oils in and used up containers for, and all the work behind that, which you now can't sell at all. You can’t even give them to your neighbors as they won’t even scent a room or the flame will drown in the wax. Rant over
  20. strugglebrother

    Break in crystallisation pattern Palm Wax

    This is just an uneducated guess but maybe I should try and stick a beer cozy on the top of the candle when I pour? I also get a drop in the top surface instead of it being totally flat. I would usually just fix this with the heat gun but I can't in this case. If there isn't a special trick for the heat gun. Or maybe you have to do a repour to get a flat surface? But maybe @Candybee, @Jcandleattic or @bfroberts would have a better idea if they have a great experience? I can't find much about it when googling?
  21. strugglebrother

    Break in crystallisation pattern Palm Wax

    Yes, tall and mighty The wax is 5801-A, I buy it from a supplier here in California but I can see Bitter Creek is selling it. They all get the palm wax from the same manufacturer in Malaysia. https://cart.candlesupply.com/5801-A-Pillar-Votive-Granite-Palm-Wax-pr-19991.html Palm 1 from CW is to my knowledge 5401-A, it comes packaged in the same big bags with the item number and Malaysia on them. I have tried Palm 1/5401-A but I think this wax makes a more beautiful pattern
  22. Isn't paraffin supposed to be consistent? Yes the answer from CS is not okay, I'd go back for a refund on that one.
  23. strugglebrother

    WSP 10 lb drums

    The $500 get $100 I seem to have missed. Must have been a deal. I can find it in google searches but it's not on their website anymore. Anyway, I just bought a 25lb drum the other week and there is free shipping on those? So it should be fine to order in bigger than 10lb to get free shipping!
  24. strugglebrother

    Primo Wax Melter

    I'm debating about the 150 Primo or a Coogar Melter. Have anyone had any experience of the Coogars? They have been around for years. The cheaper model seems a bit too fragile without the stainless steel sides... CS Melter https://coogarproducts.com/melters/cs-melter/ Price $1150 CS Melter Semi Elite https://coogarproducts.com/melters/cs-semi-elite/ Price $1445 VS Primo 150 http://www.waxmelters.com/PRIMO150-Eco-Melting-Tank-p/primo-150-wax-melter.htm Price $1695 Somehow I have a feeling the Primo is slightly better as the design is newer and also easier to clean as it's round on the inside. But hey, there is also tried and tested. Anyone have any of these melters and use/used them?
  25. strugglebrother

    Primo Wax Melter

    Have anyone tried out the Primo Wax Melters from Waxmelters? http://www.waxmelters.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=primo&Search.x=12&Search.y=10 We are finally expanding and I have my eyes on the 150lb melter! It looks easy to clean between scents as I look to blend straight in the melter. They as advertised as faster than the water melter and have a digital temperature control. I'm pretty sure PF Candle Co have one or two in their facility and you can upgrade it with a hose if you expand later