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  1. The weird thing is all of the black debris/particles are coming from my FIRST burns and the wicks were pretty short...so I can't even blame burnt pieces from previous burn... One even went out on it's own (2,4), I think from the wax pool being so polluted, it could not draw up wax through the wick to keep the flame (?). I must be doing something really wrong. I'm testing another batch going smaller in wick diameter. These results are unacceptable. I'd want my money back lol
  2. This worries me. What did you end up doing? I am also getting black debris, discoloration in the pool, and different cold throw from the burnt candle. BUT not every candle... I was really hoping to use wood wicks but they seem a inconsistent. Got them directly from Wooden Wick Co. I've tried the original and the whisper/smooth wick. check my pics.
  3. HI, Thanks for sharing. I was looking for info because I am also testing wood wicks from wooden candle co and on the second burn a few of them got debris in them. see pic. One also discolored the wax - got darker (ugly). I was very excited about a wood wick line but I don't want it to keep getting dirty. I'm using the original line (single ply) because I use a soy blend that due the paraffin content burns pretty easily. The boosters were too strong but I did not see debris... What are your thoughts/suggestions? Thanks so much. ps. the bad thing is the wicks that are leaving debris are the ones that are creating the best pools, although they are only 1/4 inch deep. I would like them to be 1/2in deep.
  4. how did your testing go? I have been testing with wooden wicks and noticed some black particles in my burn pool. looks like burnt dust. Is this what happened to yours? It got like this after 3hours of burning. I dislike this "dirty" appearance.
  5. TallTayl, After the candle has been used up, can the wick tab be removed at all and if so, how? I usually use wick tabs but they do not glue sometimes and I really like your idea, but I need to make sure the customer can take off the tab after burning the entire candle to use the jar for other things. I don't want the tab to be so superbonded to the glass or ceramic jar that the jar will be ruined while the customer tries to remove the tab.
  6. Also can I use this for glass and ceramic vessels? I would like the client to be able to remove the wick and tab after candle has burned completely and utilize the jar for something else. Thanks for your help!
  7. do you use the Surebonder skillet/pan blue in pellets? I looked into it and it does not say it's high temperature. Just want to make sure. this is the greatest suggestion! Thank you!!
  8. I have not asked them. I figured they would never tell me bc they'd want me to buy through them. but I could risk it
  9. Is this forum still active? I'm trying to find out who is the supplier for candlescience's citronella fragrance oil. I want to buy direct (and cheaper?).
  10. Great question. Thank you for asking. Lots of insights from the responses!
  11. LitUp, thank you for offering to help, I totally need it! I have a candle company in Brazil and I am moving back to the US, my home country, and have been evaluating the US market, which is saturated with companies but also has immense demand (exact opposite of Brazil, an immature market with growing demand and very few companies). I'm not a big craft show / market seller, I'm too shy to sell directly to people/the public! It's much easier for me to do B2B, in this case wholesale or private label. I understand the pricing but I would really like to know how you approached the wholesale market, how and why you chose the stores you did and most importantly, how did you expand so much?! Did you use a third party? Thanks so much!
  12. this is a great point. I'm selling my candles in brasil and a store salesperson starts telling me the soy candles they sell are "all soy". I lightly mention that if they were they should say "100% soy", which are so rare to come by especially in a small candle market like brazil (aside from religious candles). She then says "its really bad to burn petroleum in the home". she was so convinced she had accurate information she was snobby about it. I just kept quiet and felt sorry for her lack of knowledge. Which leads to my question. I use IGI 6006 which I have heard (but not confirmed) is 70% paraffin and 30% soy. Since there is no regulation in this market, I could technically say my candle is a soy candle...right? I like to say it's a blend but no one really knows what that means here and nor do they know they ARE buying a BLEND when they think they're buying "pure" soy. I just don't want to lose sales because of peoples blindsided ignorance. What do you all think? Thanks!
  13. This difference in suppliers amazes me! Seems there is no consistency! The same candle with CD18 got so hot and the wick so long (it was not cut before burning and it did not consume itself), that on the second burn it cracked the glass!! Thanks for you tips!!!
  14. Thank you so much! I've never tried CDNs. What needs hotter burning wicks, straight paraffin or straight soy?
  15. Flicker, I need you CD expertise! I'm losing my mind! Using 6006 in a Libbey Status diameter a little less than 3in. Candlescience FO containing vanilla, 8% CD10 and CD12. At first hour the CD10 looked perfect! After 40mins, the CD12 flickers and some shrooming. After 2.5hs, the CD10 has turned into a tall/high flame and throws a long line of soot every few minutes. The CD12 still flickers but is not a high flame and has more shrooming. The CD12 pool is about 1cm deep. The CD10 about the same, a little less. Conclusion: neither wick is good for this mix. I wanted to remain with the CDs. You think I need to wick down to CD8? (which I'd have to order) According to all charts CD8 is for 2.5-3inches. Just seems like a small wick for so much fragrance... Thanks so much!
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