strugglebrother

That makes much more sense... I'll see if I have my testers somewhere, I needed a lot to bleach the wax from yellow to white It's funny how retailers can straight up lie to their customers in this business so easily... With so many parameters to blame it's very easy to get away with a lot isn't it...

I did test the same scent with and without the white dye and with the dye in there, the burn got heavily affected. It sure needs another wick or several sizes up if you add the dye to the wax, even though they are advertising that it doesn't. I tried three dosage levels with the same clogging result and I also found that you indeed have to use quite a lot to actually be able to dye the wax to white, much more than liquid dyes. This is also in paraffin which usually takes on color really well. I was confused by the testing and ruled it out as not doing what it should.

I have tried this, it indeed clogged the wick - their description is very misguiding! https://www.candlemakingsupplies.net/p___P1017491.html

I always use HTP wicks in that wax... In a jelly jar I would try 73, 83 and possibly a 93. That is also the wick that IGI recommends themselves for that wax.

Hi Harry, Do you have a webpage for Printing Daddy? I was doing a google search but nothing really comes up?

Wouldn't make much sense if you aren't buying pallets or if they drop their prices considerably. I haven't tried their fragrance oils but then you have to factor in that they won't be available for long if you aren't doing duplications of them?

I was aiming to use them in the beginning and I called Candlewic and Flaming Candle who sells a different wood wick than the patented one and they assured me that I didn't need to mark up my products with anything as long as I bought it from them. But, same as for you, I could never really get them to work so I left it there... I don't really like the attitude of this company in particular Didn't the lady who owns it had her assistant to order in others candles with wood wicks to, later on, get in touch and harass people who didn't put her company name on their candles?

Sorry for being a bit skeptical here.. I sense this just is products being repackaged in fancy packaging with a 200% markup... I can also not stand their licensing deal thing with that you have to give them free advertising on all your products after you BOUGHT their wicks.. otherwise, they will sue you. Quote: We request that you provide us with your company name and the brand name (if different than your company name) for each candle that you manufacture so that we know where our wooden wicks are being used in the marketplace; that you are protected under the licensing agreement; and, your candle products are not susceptible to patent infringement. Cmon, you aren't Bill Gates, are you?

Why don't you have AFI to duplicate the oil you like?

Will it be possible to order with shipping after December? I like their black tins... Completely black as they should be and no ugly liner

I think that might have been that the 464 wax you made that candle form was better than recent batches more so than it's been curing over a year? I have been speaking to experts and asking the same thing and they all say more than 5 days is enough of a cure for testing HT. CT can improve up to 10 days sometimes.

Here is how I just recently deal with the air pockets when doing palm candles. I pour my candles but make sure I have 6-10oz extra which I leave in the crockpot. After 15-20 minutes when the top solidified, but some still has some holes which the wax can leak from which can make the flip impossible, I poke 4/5 relief holes on the tops. Then I wait 5 minutes for it to solidify under that and flip for the big air bubble to go to the bottom. Next day I reheat what I have in the crockpot and just top up a tiny bit over the line which is just a little per candle. Perfect tops and the air bubble will be at the bottom of the candle. It just takes 5-10 minutes for the candle tops to get ready and it's good to go.

Sorry to hear that your wax has been taken away. Bulk Apothecary is a very unreliable company https://www.yelp.com/biz/bulk-apothecary-aurora I would not consider them my main supplier in any way... The few good reviews on Yelp are obviously doctored by mr Gary P himself, hence how they are phrased.

To me, having to rewick a whole line of candles just due to that the wax is changing is almost like starting again. You end up between wick sizes, when you wick up you sometimes get soot, really bad mushrooming etc... Or is it maybe just me and I'm very unlucky? Pretty much all of our own private line has been on hold for 6 months now... But I'm not crying. We got the chance to reevaluate our whole wax situation due to these problems. We forced ourselves to find even better fragrance and wax. Without these major errors, we could have been selling the same soy wax candles with a bad throw and kept on thinking that it was the best we could do. I'm very excited to relaunch before Christmas with 11 candles which has great performance. This forum has been a great help. As sellers keep on pushing out bad products it's very helpful to be able to share information about the quality.

The 2017 AAK wax had diminishing HT for us but I guess we lived with it... This 2018 AAK batch is just completely messed up... All this in candles which have been using the same fragrance and same process and jars.

Same fragrance oil - scents for the last 2 years.

HTP 105... I burned one of them first at home and it did what it was supposed to do, perfect meltpool and flame. Then I burned another one and it didn't reach a melt pool in 5 hours at all. Then another one died in the wax after an hour. I used 444 from two different lots. One from 2017 which I have made a bunch of candles from and I presume is fine (I bought 200lb at the same time from the same batch). I'm 100% the bad ones are from the 2018 batch. I was stupid enough not to mark what candles were made out of which batch hence why I will replace all of their candles for free with the new wax.

I also thought it was an air bubble first and just a dud. I don't have this particular candle on hand, that was just sent to me. Looks like weird tunneling? I have burned a bunch from the batch. A few others will never reach a melt pool and will go out within 10 minutes to an hour in the wax. I have 5 different candles I have burned now that does different strange things. It also looks like some fluid in the wax which I have never seen before. Could that be moist from the wax or something? We never had one single return or any problems with these candles for 2 years... I should have an old candle that is about 2 years old which I will burn and show how they are supposed to look...

Latest client return of my candles containing AAK 444 wax. Same wax, same fragrance, same pour temp, same container, same wick for over 2 years. Look at that melt pool and tunneling, this is hilarious. They say it's up to spec and nothing has changed? I have tested random candles from the latest batch, some work some don't. Got refunded from Candle Science for the wax but have to take a loss of $700 in fragrance and other material. Taking all candles back from the store and convinced the client not to use soy wax and move over to coconut wax in the future so this is the last time ever I'm using AAK waxes. I would test this lot extensively before selling.

Just add the fragrance at 5 degrees higher temperature than the temperature you want to mix it with... My temperature usually drops 3 to 5 degrees when I add the fragrance oil.

I'm also allergic to wet spots... If there is a lot of them I DO think the customers care as they buy with their eyes. If there is one spot they are more likely to be okay with it. Things to get around it, use a colored tumbler or use a wrap around sticker. I'm sure there is a way to minimize them with an additive... Palm wax doesn't have wet spots at all etc.. Have anyone tried Paraflint H-1 or Micro Wax? Crisco shortening should help a bit but can smoke. I need to do some serious testing!

I use paper towels first to wipe out the wax with when it still is a bit warm, otherwise just turn the pot on for a minute and then wipe it out. Then I use a bit of rubbing alcohol to disinfect it with and a paper towel. If you have been using dye in the crock pot I usually take a heat gun and blow hot air on the spout to get the colored wax out from the spout into a paper towel. If it's stuck in the spout you can use a chopstick to poke the paper towel into the hole to really clean it. This to prevent that a lump of black wax pops down in the jug the next time and colors your new wax.

Maybe not in as by a machine but poured from a machine like the Coogar VIII that times the pour exactly, pushes the wax out at exactly the same temperature and blends the fragrance as it pours. I looked at maybe 10 candles and they looked exactly the same. Maybe they are hung at the top and bottom in a rack completely freestanding and then flipped after a certain time of pouring. Or the line at the top showing that there was a repour at the end. Maybe a plastic fitting was put over the top of it to seal it while it cools down. But then the wick would move as you have to trim it and it would ruin the crystallization on top...

I love these! Is it just me or doesn't the pattern form 3 almost ghost looking creatures in the candle! Amazing!

These palm candles at Wholefoods have a line at the bottom instead and a tiny line at the top. Very even and straight top of the candles. I think these are somehow machine made.